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You'll destroy your weeds, your neighbor's, your neighbor's neighbor's... Like half the state. It's more of a community service, really.
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May 31, 2017 23:35
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rally posted:Using fire to destroy weeds here in Colorado sounds like a recipe for disaster. Most of the state already burns its weed anyways.
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May 31, 2017 23:42
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 Only 10k more than my house, and about as ugly. Who the hell buys Snapon poo poo?
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Jun 1, 2017 01:21
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Gingerbread House Music posted:
Mr.Big
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Jun 1, 2017 09:17
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SEKCobra posted:Mr.Big Mr. Tinyprick
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Jun 1, 2017 15:28
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sharkytm posted:Mr. Tinyprick Mr Colorblind.
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Jun 1, 2017 15:49
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rally posted:Using fire to destroy weeds here in Colorado sounds like a recipe for disaster. Have you ever been in the rural areas that burn out the ditches? Full scorched earth groom bank to bank in the spring.
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Jun 1, 2017 18:06
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Makita is introducing a battery theft deterrent in the next couple months.  It's a small box half the size of a charger, you hook it up to your computer and enter a PIN# and an amount of time (1 day to 1 year) for that PIN# to last. You then slide the battery into the box and the battery blinks 3 times. The battery is now ready to use. At the end of your chosen time frame the battery shuts down until it's reactivated by the box, either with the same PIN# or a new PIN# of your choosing. The boxes are cheap, about as much as a battery. The interface is super simple and will run on any computer. It's so much easier than a dumbshit bluetooth, although there are plans to utilize bluetooth to some extent in the future (nearby tool tracking). It's being tested in California and Washington right now, I should be getting on the bandwagon next month and will have more details and a review of sorts.
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Jun 1, 2017 23:58
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rally posted:Using fire to destroy weeds here in Colorado sounds like a recipe for disaster. You do it after a rain storm or you soak the area first??? You're not trying to burn the weeds off, just singeing them is a death sentence. Soak, singe, whack, rake. They don't come back.
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Jun 2, 2017 00:40
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Does it work on Canadian thistle? I'm almost willing to burn down the neighborhood for that. Manual removal and herbicide don't touch it. I pulled about 1000 of them out last week and now 2000 have sprouted.
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Jun 2, 2017 01:08
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rally posted:Does it work on Canadian thistle? I'm almost willing to burn down the neighborhood for that. Manual removal and herbicide don't touch it. I pulled about 1000 of them out last week and now 2000 have sprouted. According to Purdue University's agriculture department Canadian thistle has really widespread roots, and no single method will be effective, but burning may help. quote:Prescribed Fire — Burning can be used in midcontract management in CRP Practice CP2 (native warm season grass plantings). Canada thistle response to fire is variable and control often depends on timing of the burn, soil moisture, fire intensity and location. Prescribed burning often can result in an increase in Canada thistle density initially, but is reported to decrease over time with continued prescribed burnings [Travnicek et al. 2005]. This initial increase in Canada thistle density is because of resprouting from its extensive root system, or through colonization via germinating seeds on bare ground. While empirical data is absent, it makes sense that prescribed burning could be used as a pretreatment to herbicide applications. Also there's this quote from Wildflowers and Weeds quote:Fire: Late spring burns have been an effective tool to control Canada thistle (May-June), while early spring burns stimulate the plants to increase sprouting and reproduction. Late spring burns should be conducted three years in a row to be most effective. These studies were done in non-brittle prairies of Illinois. Repetitive burning in more brittle habitats could have serious negative consequences. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Jun 2, 2017 |
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Jun 2, 2017 02:09
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Just checking back in to say the VIAIR 85P 12v air compressor is amazing, I'd highly recommend it to anyone who uses a portable compressor for tires. It's got to be at least 10x faster than my lovely one, while also being a lot quieter.
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Jun 2, 2017 22:23
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I've got very little gear to unstick seized bolts and don't really want to buy a cordless impact driver because funds are low. But I noticed on ebay someone selling sds to 1/2" socket adapters. And I do have a massive 900W AC rotary hammer drill from my air con installation days when I had to core drill holes through walls. How good is AC undoing stuck bolts? I know it's less torque than DC but I've got a big gently caress off hammer drill I would be putting it back to some use again at least, even if it broke the adapter or shat itself after a couple of uses. E: never mind, only my small hammer has reverse, my huge rotary hammer does not 
Fo3 fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Jun 3, 2017 |
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Jun 3, 2017 09:58
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The $40 (after coupon) harbor freight corded impact wrench works pretty well, it's just big. I live in NY and can't think of a time when it failed to remove a rusted bolt. edit: Other than twisting the head off small fasteners, but that's not really the tool's fault.
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Jun 3, 2017 14:56
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I wish there were deals like that in au I haven't found any cord options around here. E: I guess the best I can do here is go with the 'bunnings' ozito. Driver $130, battery and charger $50. Some of their stuff is OK and has an over the counter exchange warranty. It's $242 for makita tool only, I think it takes the same battery/charger as my 7 year old drill. 3e: getting confused and spent too much time looking at cheap drivers, not wrenches Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Jun 3, 2017 |
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Jun 3, 2017 15:02
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Penetrating oil and a propane torch are probably your cheapest options.
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Jun 3, 2017 17:17
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Fo3 posted:I've got very little gear to unstick seized bolts and don't really want to buy a cordless impact driver because funds are low. But I noticed on ebay someone selling sds to 1/2" socket adapters. And I do have a massive 900W AC rotary hammer drill from my air con installation days when I had to core drill holes through walls. FWIW the drill would probably just get ripped out of your hands as soon as you tried to drive it, unless your hammer drill can hammer without turning like an impact wrench does. I'd second the suggestion of going after it with a torch and penetrating oil. When I dropped the subframe on my 15 year old Focus - which has spent 13 of those years in the rust belt - even my Dewalt DCF899 couldn't break one of the four bolts free, and I had to attack it with daily applications of PB blaster & a torch using a can of MAPP substitute for a full week before I could drive it out. Also a breaker bar in combination with a BFH and/or long piece of black pipe slipped over the end can usually coax all but the most stubborn fasteners out.
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Jun 3, 2017 17:49
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I use those Greenlee drill/tap kits all the time. Mostly for network racks, chasing chowdered threads. There is a giant batch of network racks in our customer's facilities (cellular) that are covered in some sort of thick, hard paint, on top of being rusty in the first place. I use them with a 18v Milwaukee impact. I've killed a couple but each time I deserved it, they hold up pretty well to an impact.
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Jun 3, 2017 19:49
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Anyone know a good cordless hedge trimmer potentially that shares a battery with a good weed whacker? I see that DeWalt has a 20V hedge trimmer but also a 40V trimmer and a 40V whacker, should I just not care about battery commonality between lawn tools and shop tools (seems reasonable)? Also guys looking at cordless impacts I used the DeWalt 1/2" 20V ones at work for several years and loved them which is why my home tools are the same line now. My recent jobs have all used janky Chinese air impacts (multinationals shopping internationally for the lowest price can find some terrifying power tools) and I really miss the DeWalt. Geoj posted:FWIW the drill would probably just get ripped out of your hands as soon as you tried to drive it, unless your hammer drill can hammer without turning like an impact wrench does. Yeah I agree, the big drills can be hideously unsafe that way, break a wrist easily. If you are in a similar situation with a rusty fastener I will suggest beeswax while it is still hot from the torch, it has remarkable penetrating qualities but is inconveniently solid. It was really commonly used in the old days on steam systems that were always hot enough, just get the paint off and feed it in there. shovelbum fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 01:01
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The Milwaukee 18V 1/2" brushless impact is good, the Makita equivalent seems to be higher build quality. I got the Milwaukee as a gift from my dad several years ago and I basically put my nice air wrenches away forever except for really stubborn poo poo.
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Jun 4, 2017 01:15
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shovelbum posted:Anyone know a good cordless hedge trimmer potentially that shares a battery with a good weed whacker? I see that DeWalt has a 20V hedge trimmer but also a 40V trimmer and a 40V whacker, should I just not care about battery commonality between lawn tools and shop tools (seems reasonable)? I think I said it a page back, but forget sharing batteries between the shop and the yard. It's just not worth it. I'm super happy with the 40v Ryobi trimmer now that they've got one with an attachment shaft. Just pop on all my old cheap gas attachments to whack, hedge trim and blow, all with the same power unit. The whole kit cost less than just a battery from some of the "prestige brand" tools.
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Jun 4, 2017 01:18
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I guess the 40V DeWalt stuff is dead as a dodo if they're releasing a new 60V battery format anyway. I really hesitate to buy Ryobi in general but maybe their lawn tools are better than their shop stuff?
shovelbum fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 4, 2017 01:43
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I have ryobi, I've a dual battery lawnmower and share batteries with 2 drills, palm sander, reciprocating saw and jigsaw. If I see one cheap I'll get a strimmer for edges as well, only having to manage one battery brand is great. Thinking of getting the 6 port battery charger as my full size charger died and the the mini chargers are just untidy.
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Jun 4, 2017 08:21
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Fo3 posted:I've got very little gear to unstick seized bolts and don't really want to buy a cordless impact driver because funds are low. But I noticed on ebay someone selling sds to 1/2" socket adapters. And I do have a massive 900W AC rotary hammer drill from my air con installation days when I had to core drill holes through walls. A rotary hammer is Absolutely The Wrong Tool. Buy a breaker bar and a mallet, apply penetrating oil, then apply pressure on the breaker bar while whacking it with a mallet. Add heat as necessary.
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Jun 4, 2017 17:32
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In pure torque terms - outside of dealing with fasteners that are on a rotating assembly - there's not much that can match a large man on a long breaker bar for cost/effectiveness ratio. A manual (hammer type) impact driver is also a worthwhile  investment, especially for things like phillips screws.
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Jun 4, 2017 17:36
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InitialDave posted:A manual (hammer type) impact driver is also a worthwhile This. I took apart a 40 year old motorcycle a few years ago, and the manual impact driver was my best friend. Made short work of screws/bolts I had been having trouble with for hours.
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Jun 4, 2017 18:19
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Don't underestimate the power of a long breaker bar. Harbor freight has a nice 25" long 1/2" bar that's broken pretty much every bolt I've thrown at it. My friend had a really stuck caliper bolt when doing a break job. He was hammering away with an air impact and getting nowhere. We put the breaker on and used both our hands and broke it free on the first try.
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Jun 4, 2017 18:48
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InitialDave posted:
Be sure to get impact bits. RIP my poor torx bit.
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Jun 4, 2017 20:39
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My preference is a striking wrench if I have room to swing a hammer.
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Jun 4, 2017 20:58
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lol if you don't just hit whatever regular wrench u have
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Jun 4, 2017 21:09
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Man I beat the poo poo out of my gear wrenches. Hammer time all the time. Hasn't failed me yet.
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Jun 4, 2017 21:45
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BraveUlysses posted:lol if you don't just hit whatever regular wrench u have  They just don’t make ’em like they used to. That’s a 15″ wrench, hammered on enough to deform its 1⅓″ thick steel handle along its whole back face. I can’t even say it was the wrong tool for the job because marks on the screw suggest it was hammered on with jaws open 2½″ and the adjustment is still fully functional. They may even have used this wrench’s twin as the hammer.
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Jun 4, 2017 21:49
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Sort of deciding between Milwaukee and Makita for something to move to. Occasionally deals hit. Christ, this is more complicated than my 1040 on figuring poo poo out. Right now immediate need is a weed trimmer and blower. So many SKU's and battery options. Scanning through various threads Milwaukee blower sucks (I have a big boy backpack blower for leaves in the fall.) Just something to blow grass and other detritus during summer months off the concrete. In other words, something the wife won't have a problem handling. And I have a full assortment of C3 tools to fall back on...hence this post and the dead-end that fiasco is in. Ryobi isn't blowing my skirt up, but drat...the pricing. Ugh.
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Jun 5, 2017 01:12
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C-Bangin' it 
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Was gifted some nice old school vices, a homeade anvil and a couple Benchmade knives from a dead person. Vices were made in Cleaveland, anvil appears to be a peace of piece of old rail cut into an anvil shape...it'll work! Put away all my tools today, took a picture:  Jobox getting full...
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Jun 5, 2017 01:17
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Mcqueen posted:Was gifted some nice old school vices, a homeade anvil and a couple Benchmade knives from a dead person. Vices were made in Cleaveland, anvil appears to be a peace of piece of old rail cut into an anvil shape...it'll work! The middle vise looks like it was and abused.
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Jun 5, 2017 01:28
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The ac rotary hammer idea was dumb and drunk thoughts. It's just that I'm currently using every other method and often can't do it, ie often not enough access/room to swing a hammer or use a lever, can't risk burning off nearby paint or lines with a torch etc. Ending up using a grinder or dremel, or broken studs way too often A battery impact wrench not in my budget right now, but I might look at a cheap s/h air tool. I didn't think about it before because my compressor is an old and cheap one that I just bought for tyres and spray painting - never bought any air tools before, but looks like it can do up to 110psi and 230+ L/min and 60L tank so it might be worth trying some air tools if I can find some cheap s/h ones Fo3 fucked around with this message at 11:19 on Jun 5, 2017 |
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Jun 5, 2017 11:16
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You could also consider an AC impact. They can be had for not very much. This one is the equivalent of 70AUD.
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Jun 5, 2017 13:26
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Fo3 posted:The ac rotary hammer idea was dumb and drunk thoughts. It's just that I'm currently using every other method and often can't do it, ie often not enough access/room to swing a hammer or use a lever, can't risk burning off nearby paint or lines with a torch etc. Ending up using a grinder or dremel, or broken studs way too often Can you take a few pics of what you are trying to remove and what is the size of the head?
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Jun 5, 2017 16:37
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It was 13mm-14mm exhaust bolt heads. Jobs done because I ground them off. That was the falcon ute, but I have to do the same thing with the e34 BMW downpipes in a couple of weeks because I need to replace the exhaust gaskets on that. Because it's under car work, not much room for hammers and levers and of course not really preferred to do that with a car on stands for obvious reasons. Next time I plan to get a lot of time soaking in penetrents, but want a back up plan in case that doesn't work. With the falcon I ground poo poo off because local cheap parts. With the bmw if I have to cut and grind it may be an expensive long wait for overseas parts replacements. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jun 5, 2017 |
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Jun 5, 2017 17:22
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Fo3 posted:It was 13mm-14mm exhaust bolt heads.
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Jun 5, 2017 19:15
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