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Precision-style basses have had output jacks on the pickguard for 60 years, I think it will hold up just fine. Use a right angle plug if you think yours isn't secure enough.
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Jun 3, 2017 14:52
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| # ? May 22, 2024 09:33 |
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Yeah, people seem to forget that Fender designed the P-bass around the idea of making it easier to maintain and replace parts. Bolt-on neck, control plates, etc... All were integrated for the sole purpose of replacing them easily.
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Jun 3, 2017 18:23
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I didn't know that the SB-2 had just two volume knobs. Getting stacked controls so you have something like volume/blend and tone will be much less of a hassle than drilling a hole for a jack relocation and then routing the body to make room for a tone potentiometer.
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Jun 3, 2017 19:27
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The pickguard screws near the jack don't give me much confidence, so maybe I'll just get some slightly longer screws there and call it good. I get more control with volume/volume over volume/blend, so maybe a stacked volume pot and a tone pot... not going to happen for a bit though, plenty of time to find less sensible options 
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Jun 3, 2017 20:01
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Never mind.
Thermos H Christ fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Jun 4, 2017 |
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Jun 3, 2017 21:36
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e: OK, never mind!
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Jun 4, 2017 02:11
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Anybody have any tips for pick playing? I've recently become enamored with Klaus Fluoride so I'm trying to learn, but I'm having trouble keeping the pick square to the strings -- it ends up kind of skating along them instead so I get a lot of crappy scraping noises instead of that nice metallic CHANK. Also, what picks are good for bass? Right now I'm using the 1.14mm Tortex because I had some lying around and wasn't using them for anything else (didn't like them on guitar.)
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Jun 4, 2017 18:44
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Do you already play guitar with a pick? It's the same thing.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:02
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I like Jazz III XL's on bass and also on guitar.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:06
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I like Jazz III XL's on bass and also on guitar. I just tried my Jazz IIIs, I thought the tiny size would be a problem on bass but it was actually much better. I guess the lesson here is that I hate purple Tortex. Good thing picks are cheap as dirt so it doesn't matter when you buy some that don't work for you.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:34
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Anime Reference posted:I just tried my Jazz IIIs, I thought the tiny size would be a problem on bass but it was actually much better. I guess the lesson here is that I hate purple Tortex. If all else fails just steal some from your guitarist friends, they won't notice Same for capos.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:35
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I use 2mm picks and Gorilla Snot to keep them from turning when my hands get sweaty.
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Jun 4, 2017 20:06
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Tortex is a good material but the purple ones are only 1.14mm which is way too thin for a bass pick. On the thinner side you could go to 1.5mm but higher will generally work better with 2mm being the sweet spot for most pick materials. 1.5 is doable though for some materials.
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Jun 5, 2017 00:59
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Why so thick? Do the thinner ones just wear too fast? I tried a .73mm Tortex and it seemed to work fine.
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Jun 5, 2017 01:32
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I mostly play with fingers on bass, but as far as picks go: Recently I've been using a 2mm (e: er, could be 3mm, the writing's worn off now) black dunlop somethingorother for bass. I have no idea where I got it, but it's cool, works well, and disappears on the red patterned carpet under my desk. I used the purple tortex picks for guitar for a bit and while I didn't like them much I didn't have any extra problem with them on bass except that they seem to develop a kinda bow in them that they don't get when used on a guitar. They do show up pretty well on the carpet though. I'm currently using .90 ultex picks for guitar and they seem to work just as well on the bass, no bending or weird wear yet on the one I've been using for everything. They turn invisible the moment they start to fall from your hand. I've got a couple of those hard felt picks that make a different sound on the bass and they're fun and also thick enough that if you drop them you can just kinda feel around with your feet until you find them. As far as thickness goes for bass, I have no idea what the problem is supposed to be with thinner picks except to say that to me anything below a guitar "medium"-ish pick just feels wrong, man - like maybe it's that I feel like I need to pick way harder to get the same volume, but I find it hard to describe. Material matters, too. The .90 ultex picks feel way firmer than a nylon 1.0, for example. If you've got a pick, and it's working, I don't see why you wouldn't keep using it, but (non-stupid) picks are so cheap that there's no harm trying 20 different ones until you find something you really like. Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jun 5, 2017 |
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Jun 5, 2017 01:42
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AlphaDog posted:If you've got a pick, and it's working, I don't see why you wouldn't keep using it, but (non-stupid) picks are so cheap that there's no harm trying 20 different ones until you find something you really like.
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Jun 5, 2017 01:58
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I still need to try a jazz iii, I just seem to get distracted every time I think about buying one.
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Jun 5, 2017 02:13
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It's just really hard to get a fat sound with a thinner pick - if you don't want bottom end the use whatever but I don't have flats on all my basses because I want a thin pick sound. I don't really use a pick too much on electric bass anymore though - I used to use one for really fast playing but now I alternate my thumb and index fingers and I can match the same speed but with finger tone. There is a pick called the Wedgie you might want to check out also if you want a finger tone but need to use a pick. It is flexible and made of rubber or something. The other one that worked well and was the best one for me was the D'Andrea Pro Plek. I already had them because they are great jazz guitar picks but they also sound very good on bass. And regarding the purple Tortex picks, you have to play a broken in one or one that has been shaped with sandpaper or a file to get a feel for if you like them. They have hard angles new but round out after playing or smoothing and sound much better on both guitar and bass after that.
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Jun 5, 2017 03:50
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Black 1mm Jim Dunlops, never use anything else. I find the slight give prevents fatigue, and the grip works for me.
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Jun 5, 2017 03:55
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I use the john petrucci picks which are too big for guitar but just right for bass because im a guitar player that pretends to play bass
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Jun 5, 2017 04:00
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rio posted:It's just really hard to get a fat sound with a thinner pick - if you don't want bottom end the use whatever but I don't have flats on all my basses because I want a thin pick sound. I don't really use a pick too much on electric bass anymore though - I used to use one for really fast playing but now I alternate my thumb and index fingers and I can match the same speed but with finger tone. I only ever really use a pick when I'm playing punk, and I also tend to raise the high mids and trebles when I'm playing punk. That might explain why I'd not noticed a problem with the low end when using a thin pick.
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Jun 5, 2017 06:47
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This is a really stupid noob question, but is there a particular place on a (Fender) headstock where one should place a clip-on tuner for optimal results? I've got a Snark SN5X and it gets the job done, but tuning the E string can be a little squirrely and it frequently wants to read my A string as C#. Like I'll have it dialed very close to dead-on A, then I'll hit the string again and it will show me I'm a little off of C#. I have to mute the string for a second or so and hit it again, sometimes repeatedly, to get it to go back to A. If this happens too many times in a row I'll sometimes reposition the tuner, but I don't know if that really helps. Playing an A on the fifth fret of my E string first sometimes helps, like it gets the tuner thinking A already so it recognizes it more easily. rio posted:Tortex is a good material but the purple ones are only 1.14mm which is way too thin for a bass pick. On the thinner side you could go to 1.5mm but higher will generally work better with 2mm being the sweet spot for most pick materials. 1.5 is doable though for some materials. Huh. I've been playing with the 1mm (blue) Tortex and it really doesn't feel like they bend at all. The sound from thinner/celluloid picks is certainly very tinny, but I guess in my mind I chalked that up to their bendiness. Does pick thickness affect the sound in some way that doesn't have to do with bending, or are these Tortex picks bending and I'm just not perceiving it?
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Jun 5, 2017 18:35
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Thermos H Christ posted:This is a really stupid noob question, but is there a particular place on a (Fender) headstock where one should place a clip-on tuner for optimal results? I usually clip it over the area where it says fender. I haven't noticed any tuning issues with it there. When it's at the end of the headstock it can be a little jumpy. I would think the closer to the nut the better it would read but I've never done any real research into that.
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Jun 5, 2017 18:49
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Thermos H Christ posted:This is a really stupid noob question, but is there a particular place on a (Fender) headstock where one should place a clip-on tuner for optimal results? The bending has something to do with it but the shape of the top of the puck has more to do with it. The more round it is, the deeper the sound will be (and I am not talking about the point - I mean if you hold the pick sideways, the thin way, and look at the tip. With a thick pick you can shape it to be V shaped, rounded, angles like a square, etc. The more of a point there is, the brighter the tone. If the pick is too thin then it isn't able to be rounded at all. That is how something like the purple Tortex picks can sound drastically different when they are new vs. when they have been shaped or worn down from playing and why you have pick makers offering different shapes and speed bevels. I hope this makes sense - this all refers to looking the edge of the tip of the pick from the side, thin ways, not the tip of the pick face forward. The blue ones can bend but don't bend much - it is just that they are thin enough that you will usually have a brighter sound since you can't round the edge like a thicker pick. The Tortex material itself is good though.
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Jun 5, 2017 22:55
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Thermos H Christ posted:This is a really stupid noob question, but is there a particular place on a (Fender) headstock where one should place a clip-on tuner for optimal results? C# is in the overtone series for A. You may be playing the string too hard; when you do that, tuners take a moment to figure out what note to zero in on. Be sure to mute the other strings when you play the string you want to tune, too. Other than that, just clip it somewhere where you can see it and it will stay put. I usually put it on the Fender logo, or on the knob at the end.
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Jun 6, 2017 00:13
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rio posted:The bending has something to do with it but the shape of the top of the puck has more to do with it. The more round it is, the deeper the sound will be (and I am not talking about the point - I mean if you hold the pick sideways, the thin way, and look at the tip. With a thick pick you can shape it to be V shaped, rounded, angles like a square, etc. The more of a point there is, the brighter the tone. If the pick is too thin then it isn't able to be rounded at all. That is how something like the purple Tortex picks can sound drastically different when they are new vs. when they have been shaped or worn down from playing and why you have pick makers offering different shapes and speed bevels. Ah, interesting. I was about to order some Jazz IIIs or something to test this theory, but then I found a perfect pick just lying on the ground outside. 
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Jun 6, 2017 00:38
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Thermos H Christ posted:Ah, interesting. I was about to order some Jazz IIIs or something to test this theory, but then I found a perfect pick just lying on the ground outside. That works - be sure to post a trip report about the super thick tone. Jazz III picks are another great example of a pick that needs some shaping. They have plastic flash at the tip which is rough and it sounds so much better after filing it off. These things are awesome for shaping picks and super cheap - you can make virtually any pick sound better and experiment with cheap ones to see how different edge shapes affect tone. 
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Jun 6, 2017 01:52
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i use my rug to sharpen picks
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Jun 6, 2017 02:20
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Your feet must be very smooth, or calloused and hard as gently caress
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Jun 6, 2017 04:30
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My weapon of choice for bass: 5.85mm seems insane at first, but I find that using gigantic picks really helped me take my alternate picking to the next level. Anything under 3mm seems way too thin to me now.
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Jun 6, 2017 05:44
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Holy gently caress, am I reading that right? One pick for $15?
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Jun 6, 2017 22:16
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Yeah, they're handmade at least. I have a bunch and don't regret buying them. The huge ones are fun as hell on bass.
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Jun 6, 2017 22:47
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Ordered some 3mm Big Stubbies, gonna see how this goes.
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Jun 7, 2017 02:19
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OhNoLookOutRUN posted:Holy gently caress, am I reading that right? One pick for $15? Yep! They last for a really long time, so I think they're worth the price, as long as you don't lose them. I have a Colossal as well, but 8.85mm is a little too thick. If you want a cheaper option, the Screamer is great for bass too. AlphaDog posted:Ordered some 3mm Big Stubbies, gonna see how this goes. Those were my choice before I tried V-Picks. The central bevel gives them a nice grip.
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Jun 7, 2017 05:54
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The best picks I have tried are red chip picks. 35 bucks a pop - I have tried more expensive ones but nothing beats red chip.
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Jun 7, 2017 05:59
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Sorry to interrupt pick chat (play with your toes like god intended you animals!) but why the hell do Bongos cost so freaking much? I've been getting ready to build my first bass and have been looking at specs for basses I've liked or been interested in. With the Bongo all I've ever cared about is the electronics. While trying to find the eq specs I found out that the body is freaking basswood. I have no problem with the wood it's super cheap and easy to work. My dad used to carve flutes out of it by hand. Unfortunately it's plain as hell so it's almost always covered in a solid finish which is cheap and easy. So what gives? Anyone know?
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Jun 7, 2017 06:13
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50/50 you'll be  at what's under the solid finish on a <insert whatever expensive instrument here>.
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Jun 7, 2017 06:41
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AlphaDog posted:50/50 you'll be I've only ever stripped cheap basses to practice finishing and I've never found anything other than cheap, plain wood.
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Jun 7, 2017 07:03
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American made instruments are going to cost a lot, usually since craftsmen cost more here and environmental regulations also require a bit more care in how finishes are applied. I can't stand the looks of the Bongo but a 24 fret version of a dual pickup Stingray would probably look nice.
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Jun 7, 2017 08:08
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| # ? May 22, 2024 09:33 |
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Jeremy_X posted:I've only ever stripped cheap basses to practice finishing and I've never found anything other than cheap, plain wood. Yeah, sorry, it sounded like you were asking "Why basswood on an expensive instrument?", my bad.
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Jun 7, 2017 08:08
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