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Symetrique posted:Anyone have any experience with a GSI Creos Airbrush? I was looking at the PS289 to replace my current cheap airbrush, and it looked like an interesting alternative to the more expensive HP-CS or H&S Evolution. i literally just ordered one so if you can wait I can let you know in a few days hopefully!
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Jun 6, 2017 21:33
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Paragon8 posted:i literally just ordered one so if you can wait I can let you know in a few days hopefully! Nice! I'll be looking forward to it. Where did you order yours from?
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Jun 6, 2017 22:19
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I don't have any experience with their airbrushes, but GSI Creos makes the Gunze/Mr. Hobby range of paints, and that's good quality stuff. If they know paint, they must know airbrushes.
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Jun 6, 2017 22:45
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Symetrique posted:Nice! I'll be looking forward to it. Where did you order yours from? In the UK through Amazon, I think it was a third party seller called "SnM stuff." Bloody Hedgehog posted:I don't have any experience with their airbrushes, but GSI Creos makes the Gunze/Mr. Hobby range of paints, and that's good quality stuff. If they know paint, they must know airbrushes. From my reading they're essentially made in the same factory as the Iwata stuff to the point where some of the spare parts are interchangeable. I really enjoy Mr Hobby's goofy names and it was about 40 bux less than the equivalent Iwata. I'm coming from a Iwata Neo for reference and I am moderately terrible and feel like I struggle with the Neo a lot more than I should be so hopefully upgrading the airbrush will help in that respect.
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Jun 6, 2017 22:56
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Paragon8 posted:In the UK through Amazon, I think it was a third party seller called "SnM stuff." SnM stuff have their own online store too. They're really helpful if you have any questions about the stuff they sell. I pickup all of my Alclad from them. http://www.snmstuff.co.uk/
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Jun 6, 2017 22:59
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TTerrible posted:SnM stuff have their own online store too. They're really helpful if you have any questions about the stuff they sell. I pickup all of my Alclad from them. http://www.snmstuff.co.uk/ Yeah! I've ordered direct from them before. I didn't realise they were the seller when I ordered on amazon. For supplies I generally bounce between e-models, scalemodelshop, and snmstuff.
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Jun 6, 2017 23:20
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Nebakenezzer posted:Revell is releasing a 1/72 Black Pearl with nearly 1000 parts. I like their description of the Starsky and Hutch Gran Torino. "A model construction kit of this liberally dimensioned upper-middle-class vehicle. The Torino became well known worldwide through a US American crime series that was transmitted from 1975 onwards."
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Jun 6, 2017 23:21
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Darth Brooks posted:I like their description of the Starsky and Hutch Gran Torino. "A model construction kit of this liberally dimensioned upper-middle-class vehicle. The Torino became well known worldwide through a US American crime series that was transmitted from 1975 onwards." I noticed that as well. Your girlfriend is so liberally dimensioned... Undid the valve with some pliers, cleaned everything (the o-ring in under the trigger was covered in paint) and lubed it up with Iwata brand lube, we'll see how it goes.
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Jun 6, 2017 23:34
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Paragon8 posted:In the UK through Amazon, I think it was a third party seller called "SnM stuff." I saw few posts claiming that, but nothing too concrete on the specific Mr Hobby airbrush I was looking at. Still, its nice to have that possibility since Iwata parts seem to be easy to come by in the states. I'll probably end up ordering mine from Japan, since even with expedited shipping it's about $40 cheaper than an HP-CS or an Evolution Solo.
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Jun 6, 2017 23:53
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Yooper posted:Looking forward to seeing this. That's a pretty cool looking model. I 3d printed a Battletech Mad Cat but I think the detail is too coarse to get too crazy with washes and such. Planning on getting a post up tomorrow or Thursday! Had a few things come up at work over the w/e that stopped me from getting things done, which was somewhat irritating. Quick question for everyone, regarding the Knight- I'm torn on colour schemes. I've narrowed it down to 2, both of which I'd be happy to have a go at, so let me know which the thread would find most interesting: 1) Green and black, along the lines of the old BAOR scheme, like this:  Planning on a little fluff post at the end, so this would be an alt-WW3 thing OR 2) A red/ orange/ black splinter scheme of Martian camo. Fluff thing: Earth's counter invasion of Mars after the War of the Worlds..
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Jun 7, 2017 00:02
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Whatever colours you find most fun to paint TBH. I think the Martian camo will look more distinct and appropriate to the sci-fi model and give you more scope for playing around though.
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Jun 7, 2017 01:50
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I'm a big fan of all-white African Union tank schemes.
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Jun 7, 2017 02:19
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I like how it looks like it's gone mouldy.
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Jun 7, 2017 02:28
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Boy howdy, Revell's figure painters never fail to disappoint. 
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Jun 7, 2017 02:33
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I got the 1/32 Tamiya Mustang and am not sure how I want to paint it, so I picked up three 1/72 Tamiya Mustangs to try different paint schemes to see what I like best. Here is the first one. It's loosely based on an illustration from the Time Life WWII book "The Air War in Europe". I started this 1/72 F-15 a few months ago and something went wrong during the gloss coat prior to weathering. I used Alclad gloss and I didn't thin it enough and laid down too heavy of a coat. The end result is that it was tacky for a couple of months. Being in a cool humid basement didn't help much, so I took advantage of the hot sunny days this past week to let it sit outside in the sun. That helped quite a bit, but it was still slightly tacky so I just skipped the weathering and laid down a few thinned flat coats and called it done. I used Microsol Micro Mask on the canopy and I have to say I'm not too impressed with the stuff. It goes on almost transparent and very thin so it is hard to tell if you have good coverage. I used it previously on a 1/48 Hellcat then let it sit for a few months and it hardened to the point where I could not get it off the canopy at all. For the F-15, I was able to get most of it off, but had to do some scraping and some of the lacquer paint went directly on the canopy through the thin spots so I ended up having to sand down and polish the whole canopy. At this point, I just glued the canopy on with Elmers and called it done. I picked up some of the opaque purple Humbrol maskall. Hopefully, I'll have some better luck with that.  While I was waiting for the clearcoat to cure on the F-15, I built this Bandai Star Wars 1/12 speederbike. It is a snap-together kit, that is molded in color, but I painted and superglued it like you would with a regular model. I was very impressed by how well the pieces fit together. I took a lot of time painting and weathering the bike and didn't plan to include the trooper. After building the bike, I put the trooper together just for kicks, but had a hell of a time getting him into a natural looking position sitting on the seat so I didn't bother going any further with any painting or weathering on him. If you build this model and plan to use glue, skip ahead to the step where the bike mounts to the "tree" with the clear plastic rod to see where that rod mounts. Early on in the build, there is a piece that covers the mount holes for the plastic rod that you will not want to install if you plan to use the stock base. I found out the hard way and had to drill mounting holes in the piece since I had superglued it on, but it worked out okay. Also, be gentle when installing the pieces on the trooper that the shoulderpads mount to. They can snap right in half if you push too hard. 
Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jun 7, 2017 |
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Jun 7, 2017 03:15
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Sparq posted:That is really interesting. Would you show some photos of it?  Beer bottle for scale. I printed it at a 0.15mm layer thickness. The PLA is rather touchy. It has some springs on it to tension the legs and that didn't work too well. I'll glue it up once my kid finishes thrashing on it and get a rough paint job on it.
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Jun 8, 2017 03:03
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 I figure if I'm doing the body the same color as my old rx7, might as well do the same interior color too.
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Jun 8, 2017 05:45
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Tiny produce I might get rid of the pumpkins because my layout is set in early summer *edit* Or better, I could make this big retail space a supermarket. 
Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Jun 12, 2017 |
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Jun 12, 2017 00:35
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 They've gone plaid clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Jun 13, 2017 |
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Jun 13, 2017 05:13
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clutchpuck posted:
... were they supposed to?
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Jun 13, 2017 10:10
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Yeah. Took like 4 micro sol applications.
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Jun 13, 2017 14:30
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clutchpuck posted:Yeah. Took like 4 micro sol applications. Oh, they're decals. Sorry, was phone posting, it looked like some kind of weird wash effect 
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Jun 13, 2017 18:35
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Baronjutter, I adore and appreciate your insane train stuff.
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Jun 13, 2017 18:40
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Yooper posted:
That's really good! Your kid is a little lucky dude.
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Jun 13, 2017 21:32
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Unkempt posted:Oh, they're decals. Sorry, was phone posting, it looked like some kind of weird wash effect I'll probably hit them with some citadel nuln oil pre mixed wash before covering with dullcote.
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Jun 14, 2017 02:56
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I started working on a Tamiya 1:72 P-47 Thunderbolt this weekend. So far, I've finished the cockpit. If I had a job at a company building models, I think I'd be happy just building the cockpits and letting somebody else do the rest. I borrowed a stereoscopic microscope from work and used a W&N 00 brush to paint the tiny buttons and knobs. Here are the individual pieces:  And here it is all put together. Instead of airbrushing the base coat for the instrument cluster in dark gray, I took the lazy route and "painted" it with a couple coats of Tamiya black panel line accent color. Silver highlights were done with a cheap #1 pointed brush that I chopped off about 3/4 of the length of the bristles to leave a stiff stub of bristles at the base. Drybrushed it with a thinned coat of Mr Color #8 Silver thinned with Mr. Color Leveling thinner. The trick is to get the brush very dry. After loading the brush with the thinned silver, I brushed paint on to a paper towel until no more paint was visibly coming off the brush and then did a couple swipes across the instrument cluster. Worked like a charm! 
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Jun 14, 2017 03:19
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For silver highlights, AK and MIG Ammo both make a very nice gunmetal pigment. You can put it on with a rubber tipped applicator, or even just a fingertip. The nice thing though is it starts dark, but the more you polish it you can bring it up all the way to a chrome. I find it a bit easier to use than metallic paint for the really small metal highlights, and it blends very nicely as well. EDIT: And speaking of AK, fellow Canadian modelers might know how tough it is to find their product range in Canada. The places that do carry it have a very limited range, and charge double of most other places. US stores can be pricy too, and many don't even ship AK's products into Canada because of their flammable enamel base. So in another of my "it's cheaper to buy stuff on the other side of the world than it is here", I'll give a shout out to Cro-Hobby, a hobby-retailer based out of Croatia. They have some of the lowest prices on AK stuff, at about $5.40cdn a bottle, and they carry almost the entire range. Their shipping prices are decent as well. I bought 30 bottles of the stuff, and they shipped it here for $20, and it arrived in just over a week and a half. If I had bought here in Canada, which I wouldn't since no one carries the whole range, it would have cost nearly double what I paid for the whole thing. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 03:48
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Great looking cockpit Skunkduster!
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Jun 14, 2017 06:08
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The Locator posted:Great looking cockpit Skunkduster! It's seriously amazing work. Are those 1cm squares on the paper the cockpit is resting on?
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Jun 16, 2017 23:30
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Frenz posted:It's seriously amazing work. 1/4" squares, so 0.6 cm. It's interesting how much variety there is in the cockpit detailing even from the same company in the same scale. The blue and white P-51 Mustang in my earlier post is also a Tamiya 1:72 and the cockpit detail sucks. The F15 Eagle in the same post is also 1:72 (I think that was a Hasegawa) and there wasn't much detail in that cockpit either. The detail on this Thunderbolt is what I would expect from a good 1:48 scale model. If anybody is interested in a WW2 fighter, I'd certainly recommend it. It is this kit: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/128758-tamiya-60769-republic-p-47d-thunderbolt On a related note, does anybody know if there is there a way to search scalemates by release date of models? I'd love to do a search like Hasegawa/WW2/USA/Fighters/ and then sort by release date.
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Jun 17, 2017 01:07
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Luke Towan kills it again with another kickass diorama. I think building something for a 1/24 scale rally car would turn out really cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dug-ffEhqZU
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Jun 17, 2017 01:26
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I just stumbled on a buildlog for a model of the battleship Musashi in its final resting place https://www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=16917&p=albums&album=23472&view=list It's a pretty neat build. For those not into ships, the Musashi was the sister ship to the Yamato. They were the heaviest displacement battleships ever, and they both got wrecked by carrier-launched aircraft. Took some doing, though: quote:Just over two hours later, the battleship was attacked by eight Curtiss SB2C Helldiver dive bombers from Intrepid at 10:27. One 500-pound (230 kg) bomb struck the roof of Turret No. 1, failing to penetrate. Two minutes later, Musashi was struck starboard amidships by a torpedo from a Grumman TBF Avenger, also from Intrepid. The ship took on 3,000 long tons (3,000 t) of water and a 5.5 degree list to starboard that was later reduced to 1 degree by counterflooding compartments on the opposite side. During this attack two Avengers were shot down.[10] Battletech grognards among you will recognize a name in there. 
Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 03:46
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It's been a very long time since I've laser cut a new building and I've always been scared of curves, but here I go, starting a sort of 1930's modern little apartment building. The secret to curves is lots and lots of bracing. 
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Jun 18, 2017 05:05
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Could you have cut a series of v-notches where the bends were so they'd take the bend easily?
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Jun 18, 2017 06:00
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It's a special cardboard called taskboard that's designed to be easy to bend if misted with water, and then dries to hold the bend.
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Jun 18, 2017 07:15
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Oh, didn't even realize. I thought when you said supports you meant you were laser cutting some rigid pieces and then man-handling them into curve with generous amounts of glue and clamps. Me fail modeling? That's unglueable.
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Jun 18, 2017 08:36
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  The window strips didn't quite curve exactly as my math thought they would so the frames are a tiny tiny bit off-centre as you get away from the middle. I figured I could live with it and you barely notice other than in zoomed in photography like this. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jun 19, 2017 |
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Jun 19, 2017 00:41
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Baronjutter posted:The window strips didn't quite curve exactly as my math thought they would so the frames are a tiny tiny bit off-centre as you get away from the middle. I figured I could live with it and you barely notice other than in zoomed in photography like this.
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Jun 19, 2017 01:18
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I wasn't sure on this building until I put in that bottom gray strip and now I like it.
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Jun 19, 2017 17:55
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CRUSHED BY A GIANT RATTE I messed about on some graph paper making geometric shapes. Originally I was thinking of making the box look strongly defined, and have false shadows streatching away from it. (In my mind's eye, I was picturing camoflauge that would blend with the Ratte dramatic shadows, or something that would be deceptive a long way away in the air.) I'm thinking of redoing the camo at least partially. I'm thinking of rechoosing my colors so there is a greater contrast between them, and limiting my palette to four.   
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Jun 19, 2017 20:28
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