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Does anyone have a good recommendation for a modelling/jeweller's saw? I need to cut the top of a 40k chimera APC in half. Don't think it's worth messing it up with the standard knife.
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Jun 8, 2017 00:07
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Genghis Cohen posted:Does anyone have a good recommendation for a modelling/jeweller's saw? I need to cut the top of a 40k chimera APC in half. Don't think it's worth messing it up with the standard knife. This is one I picked up a while back. Works very well with clean cuts but the thin blades have a tendency to snap when lateral pressure is applied so be careful. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=37
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Jun 8, 2017 00:36
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What's everyone's preferred metallic that works through an airbrush? I've been using Vallejo Game Air chainmail silver, but I'm almost out of what I have. It's worked okay, but tends to gum up. So I'm wondering if there's anything better out there.
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Jun 8, 2017 01:20
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Floppychop posted:What's everyone's preferred metallic that works through an airbrush? Oh man are you in for a treat.  http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/metal-color/family/33 I also use Scale75 with Vallejo flow improver. 
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Jun 8, 2017 01:34
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Neat. Which one of the Vallejo metals is closest to Leadbelcher? I found the color chart here, but I know looking at colors on monitors can be imprecise.
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Jun 8, 2017 01:46
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Floppychop posted:Neat. Magnesium or in a pinch, Dark Aluminium will give you a very good starting point for a dark metal. 
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Jun 8, 2017 01:48
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Jesus gently caress you guys are incredible painters. I just started a slaanesh army and I'm limping through it wanting to stab myself in the eye. Not because of the colors, but because there is just so much loving detail I get overwhelmed. One day I'll get there, until then I'm gonna bumble through this shot while watching you paint-surgeons do your thing. 
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Jun 8, 2017 04:03
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We all started from the bottom. Good news is it's only up from here
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Jun 8, 2017 04:18
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Yeast posted:Oh man are you in for a treat. This is cool news! I use metallic air at the moment and the silver at least feels pretty fuckin flawless. Interested to see how they improved on the old formula
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Jun 8, 2017 06:16
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:but because there is just so much loving detail I get overwhelmed. I've been painting on and off for the past 17 years and I still feel this way when I look at some figures. Just go slow and map out how you want to approach it and you'll soon stop seeing things as a mess of detail and start looking at stuff like 'ok, all the trim will be black, cables brass, horns white...' and so on. Once you start grouping stuff and find your method it goes pretty fast. Also always ask questions here if you aren't sure how to approach something - I've learned a TON in these threads just through other people's questions and answers.
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Jun 8, 2017 06:33
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Crossposting from the Oath Thread Fairly happy with how this guy turned out. It's my first time painting one of my Frankenstein Ork kitbashes. Floppychop posted:Oath Complete!
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Jun 8, 2017 06:36
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Jesus gently caress you guys are incredible painters. There's a lot of tricks you learn which make huge differences, just how you approach things, subtle things that aren't obvious at first. Watch Duncan's videos over and over and watch them WHILE you're painting. Do not paint by holding the model or the base directly. Mount it on some block of something with some sticky tack, and hold the block. Your arm will shake far less. Also use a table and brace your arms or elbows on the table. Some armies / paint schemes are easier than others. You'll get better the more you paint, regardless If the detail is overwhelming you, pick a limited palette of like 3-6 major shades, and then ONLY paint in those colors. Every bit of detail just maps to one of those 3-6 colors, and you can paint all the different details that share a color in the same go. This makes it pretty straightforward to break down. Also work from the inside out, so its easier to avoid painting over something you just painted with the wrong color. And use shades/washes liberally so you can get sick lighting without having to freehand that poo poo.
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Jun 8, 2017 09:20
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BlackIronHeart posted:This is one I picked up a while back. Works very well with clean cuts but the thin blades have a tendency to snap when lateral pressure is applied so be careful. Thank you! I will see if I can find one of these in the U.K., or at least use it as a benchmark for comparison.
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Jun 8, 2017 12:17
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Anyone have a good pic of what the new Death Guard Green Base Paint looks like in person? I can't tell if it's supposed to replace the old Rotting Flesh color, which is what I had been originally been painting my DG with before they discontinued it. Edit: Also I've been sitting on an unopened pot of Nurgle's Rot for a few years now, and finally just saw how it works. I know how I'm basing my dudes now... Fake James fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jun 8, 2017 |
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Jun 8, 2017 19:52
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What's a good way to remove basing materials? It looks like I used some mixture of spackle and god knows what else in an ill-fated attempt to make detailed bases for tiny army men that are now knee deep in snow. How do I fix this to give these dudes a better fate?
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Jun 8, 2017 22:34
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Dimo ArKacho posted:What's a good way to remove basing materials? It looks like I used some mixture of spackle and god knows what else in an ill-fated attempt to make detailed bases for tiny army men that are now knee deep in snow. How do I fix this to give these dudes a better fate? Bases are cheap. Destroy them and attach the miniatures to new ones.
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Jun 8, 2017 22:46
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Bases are cheap. Destroy them and attach the miniatures to new ones. I mean there's crap on the legs, and little bits on the arms and poo poo where they were leaning. It's not much, but it's definitely there.
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Jun 8, 2017 22:50
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Dimo ArKacho posted:What's a good way to remove basing materials? It looks like I used some mixture of spackle and god knows what else in an ill-fated attempt to make detailed bases for tiny army men that are now knee deep in snow. How do I fix this to give these dudes a better fate? Denatured alcohol works for me 90% of the cases (I think CA glue is the remaining 10%). If you don't mind the paint on the figures.
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Jun 8, 2017 22:55
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Dimo ArKacho posted:I mean there's crap on the legs, and little bits on the arms and poo poo where they were leaning. It's not much, but it's definitely there. Simple green would so it. Can get real hard core with other chemicals if fumes or burning your hands off arent a concern
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Jun 9, 2017 02:12
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I made a friend for my dorf man. Also played around with some crushed glass snow effect, that was fun  
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Jun 9, 2017 02:21
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I made a friend for my dorf man. Also played around with some crushed glass snow effect, that was fun
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Jun 9, 2017 02:39
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Floppychop posted:Crossposting from the Oath Thread I like him! Just maybe consider rusting up the metal areas a bit more? His banner is nice and beat up, but the rest of the metals look shiny and new.
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Jun 9, 2017 04:59
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Here's a weird giant pig man I just finished. Rush job for a side project army I'm not sure I'll be sticking with or not. 
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Jun 9, 2017 05:58
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I hope this is the right thread! My husband is looking for some C&C on his Dark Eldar raider, before he paints the next 6:      I told him to work on the gems and the line work, but other than that, I can't see anything. I'm terrible at seeing improvements. Any thoughts? (He'll be reading the thread)
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Jun 9, 2017 23:51
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Zaphiel posted:I hope this is the right thread! My husband is looking for some C&C on his Dark Eldar raider, before he paints the next 6: I'd say the infantry, sails, and prow look excellent. The armor plates neat some cleaning up though, the line work is shaky and not fine enough for the look I imagine he wants.
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Jun 9, 2017 23:55
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SRM posted:I'd say the infantry, sails, and prow look excellent. The armor plates neat some cleaning up though, the line work is shaky and not fine enough for the look I imagine he wants. Agreed. The airbrush work is nice and subtle, which I like a lot. He definitely has that down pat, I feel. The highlights do need work though, and I think he should practice his edge highlighting a bit before continuing on with the rest of his Raiders.
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Jun 10, 2017 00:49
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Zaphiel posted:the line work As someone who is painting tons and tons of line highlighting on necrons, the main advice I can give is to figure out which paint consistency lets your lines work perfectly, and then never put paint on your brush that isn't at that consistency. I gently caress up my own advice constantly, but I can trace almost every hosed up line back to hosed up paint consistency. This is true of painting in general, but precision work has a much smaller window of error on your paint thickness. Too thin and it will just bleed out, too thick and it will glob out. I've been using a bit of thinner and flow improver meant for airbrush, mixed up in a pot with a dropper, and then I carefully get some and re-apply it to my paint on the wet palette until its at the consistency I've found works. Also, sorry to our lord and savior Duncan, but you really don't want to have to go back and do 2 thin coats on line highlights. Sometimes for real thin highlights I do sort of a 'drybrush' where I'm not really dry brushing because there is a lot of paint in the brush. Then just really carefully brush at nothing and move closer and closer until it picks up the edge. It's way easier than trying to paint the line on flat with the brush, and you can't hit it on an angle with wet paint because it's too flat of an angle to keep it from spreading. If you do it right, your brush will actually sieze up every ~30 seconds and you have to touch it to your wet palette to revive it. My flat-angle lines got 200% better when I started doing this. Also tons of practice. Just keep doing it until you figure out what works. I practice on my actual models because on the table with a bunch of other units some hosed up lines are still going to look fine. You can fix really egregious errors with some of your main armor color. Good enough for me.
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Jun 10, 2017 01:38
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Zaphiel posted:I hope this is the right thread! My husband is looking for some C&C on his Dark Eldar raider, before he paints the next 6: The sails are good, and by far the strongest part of the model. Same goes for the airbrushing on the prow. I agree that the gems could use some work but I like the direction they're going, particularly with the lighting effects. I'm really not a fan of the line work for the reasons mentioned before, and to be honest I think it's a jarring contrast that doesn't really work. I also think the skulls and flesh could use a bit of smoothing, same with the armor on the infantry. Maybe a wash followed by some light edge highlights. For skulls I love using drybrushing to really convey the ceramic-like texture that you don't see on flesh. The metal could use a bit more highlighting. Maybe try a drybrush pass on the grating on the bottom. I think what really gets me is that the entire scheme seems really disjointed, with disparate styles all over the ship. You have this wonderful airbrush work, metallics, roughly blended armor, and incredibly harsh edging all competing on a single model. It clashes in a way that the color scheme otherwise wouldn't. My recommendation is to go back and think about the scheme, what works, and try to maintain that coherent vision throughout the army. The troops are gray plates, black undersuits, blue detailing, and light bronze metal. I think it might be interesting to make the ship black, with blue airbrushed in the crevices, and use a gray sail to tie the vehicle to the infantry. Instead of using edge highlights use airbrushing over the model, and then go over the crevices with a dark ink to show differentiation in the plates. So basically the inverse of this effect. Another option would be to keep the blue with the sails and try the drybrush method with the gray. That way it offers a good contrast with the infantry; black edged with gray instead of gray edged with black. I'd also try to be consistent with the metals and use the same color for everything. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of using the black bordered in airbrushed gray. That way the blue and metal maintain coherence.
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Jun 10, 2017 02:11
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So last night I spent cutting a few hundred rivets. Tonight is the long war of tiny dabs of glue and tweezering 1mm rivets down. How common is it for everyone to attache tank accessories to the sides of their vehicles. Like shovels, picks, wrench, tow cable, breaker bar, etc? Because I'm thinking I should maybe add those to the exorcists/valdor tank now too. Zaphiel posted:
Basically what everyone else said. Airbrushing is good, the gems could use a bit more transition, which is super easy to add, it LOOKS like he's doing the "progressively smaller circle" method, and just adding one or two more transitions into that would make them stand out better. Clean up and make the panel lines thinner. There's already the bold on the top side of the rails which is fine, and the rest of the lines would look a lot sharper by just being thinner and cleaner. One idea to test might be using a marker. There's a lot of options because of the rise of "gunpla" or whatever, with specialty panel lining markers for outlining and highlighting panel edges and recesses on gundam models. Haven't done it myself, but I've seen good results from others. Another option is thinning the paint further, and using the side of the brush with a bit more transition between the black and white. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKuGcFK5egA&t=600s is a good one to watch that explains and shows this well. Final idea is to panel highlight edges with very dark greys via airbrush, with the final edge highlight done by brush in white. I mean it's fairly obvious he has the airbrushing down going by the sails, and giving the edges a similar treatment as the sails should give the desired effect while making the overall paintjob more cohesive as well.
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Jun 10, 2017 02:33
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I got a can of GW colour spray and got a better coat of the first colour in a minute than like an hour by hand 
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Jun 10, 2017 02:51
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Thank you everyone for all the feedback! It's really helpful!
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Jun 10, 2017 05:19
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Quoting from Mantic thread:Southern Heel posted:I'm really pleased with how my Forge Fathers are coming together: I'd really like some help on getting differentiation out of this force. So far, I've got leaders having either white, or white-striped helmets. Each squad has a colour coded helmet based on its role: Tactical squads: black helmets Heavy Weapon squads: red helmets Assault squads: not pictured, maybe blue? I'm now looking at how to paint the Forge Guard (rear-right, Terminator analogues for this army). My current thought is to paint them in highly weathered white armour (since with leaders having white helmets, we establish that's some kind of veteren-status or seniority., to contrast with the black armour of the regular troops, like so:    Would greatly appreciate any opinons on that, and if there is anything else obvious too! Thanks,
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Jun 10, 2017 16:12
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Southern Heel posted:Quoting from Mantic thread: Wow, how did you do that weathering?
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Jun 10, 2017 16:18
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Those aren't my photos- I just googled 'white armour weathering' It would appear they're using weathering powders for the tonal variation, and the chips are just dark paint (highlighted around) with a metallic (either paint or pencil) in the middle.
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Jun 10, 2017 16:34
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Weird question, but anyone know of any ~30mm scale sea creatures? I'm mostly looking for things like crabs, starfish, etc. I'm hoping to use them on a scenic base that will depict a shoreline with sand and water elements. I've found a few Reaper familiars that might work, but that's about it.
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Jun 10, 2017 19:26
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Fyrbrand posted:Weird question, but anyone know of any ~30mm scale sea creatures? I'm mostly looking for things like crabs, starfish, etc. I'm hoping to use them on a scenic base that will depict a shoreline with sand and water elements. I've found a few Reaper familiars that might work, but that's about it. For that kind of stuff it helps to scour amazon and ebay for things labeled as "toy," "jewelry," "ornament" or sometimes "beads." Not sure if this scale is right but it's a start. 
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Jun 10, 2017 20:02
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I know this is a very cruel blow up of a model that's about 30mm tall, and unfinished at that - but I'm not so sure after painting one up:
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jun 10, 2017 |
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Jun 10, 2017 20:13
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Solemn Sloth posted:I got a can of GW colour spray and got a better coat of the first colour in a minute than like an hour by hand Your mind will be absolutely blown if you ever get an airbrush.
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Jun 11, 2017 02:23
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On that note, I just discovered that my local hobby shop has a FULLLLLL line of Vallejo paints. Model color, game color, air color, and all the extras like inks and washes and primers and everything. Fortunately I've got buttloads of regular paints from reaper but man, it's hard not to go nuts and load up on the air colors, ughhhhh. I bought the metal air colors but stopped there for now. I'll probably not be able to stop myself from going back for more though.
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Jun 11, 2017 02:34
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Bad Munki posted:On that note, I just discovered that my local hobby shop has a FULLLLLL line of Vallejo paints. Model color, game color, air color, and all the extras like inks and washes and primers and everything. Fortunately I've got buttloads of regular paints from reaper but man, it's hard not to go nuts and load up on the air colors, ughhhhh. I bought the metal air colors but stopped there for now. I'll probably not be able to stop myself from going back for more though. Don't stop your self. The game colours are wonderfully durable and close (though not exact) matches to most of the GW range. I swear by them.
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