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And if you know you're using that colour again get an empty dropper bottle and make a dedicated airbrush mix.
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Jun 13, 2017 15:46
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Flipswitch posted:Anyone have much experience with the Neo for Iwawa CN Airbrushes? http://www.firestormgames.co.uk/neo-for-iwata-cn-gravity-feed-airbrush-0-35mm-nozzle I got one as my first airbrush. It works well enough, though kind of finicky to clean. Smaller nozzle (.35) also tends to clog if you don't thin correctly. Chill la Chill posted:Yeah, get them all. Pro-tip: save time by mixing your paints in the water cup and backflow air by pressing the tip against a soft cloth/towel. Put the thinner/flow improver in first and then add the paint. Paint should be added to the side of the cup instead of right onto the needle so the bubbling fluids can mix with it without clogging anything. That method doesn't work that well with the Badger Patriot though. drat needle sticks out too far.
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Jun 13, 2017 16:06
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Floppychop posted:I got one as my first airbrush. It works well enough, though kind of finicky to clean. Smaller nozzle (.35) also tends to clog if you don't thin correctly. The patriot is where I started using it
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Jun 13, 2017 16:07
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Chill la Chill posted:The patriot is where I started using it Same here. Was looking at Iwata but if your in North America I'd recommend Badger. If anything breaks or needs to replace your going to be able to get cheaper replacement parts. Their customer service is supposed to be fantastic
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Jun 13, 2017 16:12
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Floppychop posted:I got one as my first airbrush. It works well enough, though kind of finicky to clean. Smaller nozzle (.35) also tends to clog if you don't thin correctly. You can, you just have to be prepared for a needle to stick into your finger 1/32nd of a inch.
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Jun 13, 2017 16:28
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OK, thanks guys - I've got it coming at some point tonight so will report back my abject failure shortly. Am I correct in assuming that I'm going to need discrete tones, with cleaning the airbrush inbetween - rather than blending as I'd expect? For ex, going from red to yellow to bleached bone would be multiple transparent coats of each to layer, rather than trying to mix many intermediate shades? (obviously the jumps can't be too big, but you get my meaning)
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Jun 13, 2017 16:33
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Southern Heel posted:OK, thanks guys - I've got it coming at some point tonight so will report back my abject failure shortly. You can do it that way, or you can progressively mix in the next color and spray it through creating a natural gradation. I don't know how large the piece you're working with is though, so you might be better off with just spraying the base colors and feathering them.
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Jun 13, 2017 17:05
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I tend to just drop increasing amounts of my next color in to get gradation that way as well. I use a paper towel and have no problem backflushing my badger patriot. I'm really happy with it and will be sticking with Badger, parts are super easy to get on Amazon too. Looking forwards to a krome renegade next.
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Jun 13, 2017 17:44
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Chill la Chill posted:Yeah, get them all. Pro-tip: save time by mixing your paints in the water cup and backflow air by pressing the tip against a soft cloth/towel. Put the thinner/flow improver in first and then add the paint. Paint should be added to the side of the cup instead of right onto the needle so the bubbling fluids can mix with it without clogging anything. Yep, after much practice I ended up nailing down this exact strategy. Put in the suggested 1:1:10 thinner/flow improver/paint (for the surface primer anyway, I need to get the ratios right for the air/nonair paints still probably), put the thinner and flow improver in first, put the paint in the side, mix a bit right in the cup with a popsickle stick, put the cap on it, give it a bit of backflow bubbles for more mixing, do a test spray and then go to town. My speed went way up. Only really need to give it a clean when you are done, or when you've done maybe 5 or 6 whole pots of it. Good idea to dab some cleaner on a towel to wipe away the needle every so often but I wasn't getting dry tip at all. Just some backsplatter into the front/needle that builds up over time. I primed a doomsday ark, 10 lychguard, 5 immortals, 5 characters, a night scythe, a triarch stalker, and 3 wraiths in maybe about an hour, hour and a half including getting all my airbrush poo poo out from the cabinet.
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Jun 13, 2017 19:36
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Wow holy poo poo, you guys were right - this is like night and day. I started with too much thinner but zero'ed it in quite quickly - basecoated some white squats in exo-armour, shot some white over what will be an orange half of a dread and five terminators in just a few minutes! Am I correct in that if I want finer lines/detail/etc. I should go closer with less action?
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Jun 13, 2017 20:33
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Southern Heel posted:Wow holy poo poo, you guys were right - this is like night and day. I started with too much thinner but zero'ed it in quite quickly - basecoated some white squats in exo-armour, shot some white over what will be an orange half of a dread and five terminators in just a few minutes! And lower PSI.
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Jun 13, 2017 21:26
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Southern Heel posted:Wow holy poo poo, you guys were right - this is like night and day. I started with too much thinner but zero'ed it in quite quickly - basecoated some white squats in exo-armour, shot some white over what will be an orange half of a dread and five terminators in just a few minutes! 
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Jun 13, 2017 22:09
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Airbrushing is god mode for painting. Even just basecoating at first.
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Jun 14, 2017 00:05
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bonds0097 posted:And lower PSI. This is the biggest one. I think I'm hovering around 6-8 psi for 99% of the work I do. It's an easy detail to overlook when trying to sort out paint to thinner ratios of things are acting up
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Jun 14, 2017 02:55
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Any alternative to GW Martian Iron Earth/Crust that are as good and look the same?
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Jun 14, 2017 03:37
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Isn't that just orange paint with crackle medium in it?
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Jun 14, 2017 04:39
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If you're just getting started with Airbrushing, you cannot go past Vallejo flow improver. It is straight up Voodoo magic for air brushes. With it you can put anything through. Citadel, P3, Scale - anything. It's A++
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Jun 14, 2017 04:47
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Yeast posted:If you're just getting started with Airbrushing, you cannot go past Vallejo flow improver. It is straight up Voodoo magic for air brushes. With it you can put anything through. Citadel, P3, Scale - anything. It's A++ This. So much. For years I've been doing basecoats with an airbrush, and it would work OK for a few models and then start clogging up and being a huge pain and I'd have to strip the whole thing and clean it. Started using this and I got through a tank and 20 other models without a single problem.
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Jun 14, 2017 06:13
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How's it compare to windex? I've been using it for years and it's been great for me, but I wonder if I'm missing out.
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Jun 14, 2017 06:20
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HA! Spot on! Thank you all for the encouragement. As above I think so far at least it's going to just be great for basecoats - I'm not clear on whether I should attempt multiple colours on a single model, but I'm guessing without extensive masking that's a no-no (i.e. painting a black gun that's already attached to a blue body). Are there any recommended masking tapes if that's the idea? I'm thinking of how I'd bisect a space marine for two-colour scheme using an airbrush? Speaking of which, I guess I can put all my tones down in shades of white, then glaze (?) over the top with orange to get a smooth orange?
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Jun 14, 2017 07:04
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BULBASAUR posted:How's it compare to windex? I've been using it for years and it's been great for me, but I wonder if I'm missing out. Wouldn't know as I haven't tried it. I used to use thinner, and would experience dry tip and clogs - but this stuff.. it's straight up magic.
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Jun 14, 2017 08:08
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Southern Heel posted:HA! Spot on! Thank you all for the encouragement. As above I think so far at least it's going to just be great for basecoats - I'm not clear on whether I should attempt multiple colours on a single model, but I'm guessing without extensive masking that's a no-no (i.e. painting a black gun that's already attached to a blue body). Are there any recommended masking tapes if that's the idea? I'm thinking of how I'd bisect a space marine for two-colour scheme using an airbrush? Speaking of which, I guess I can put all my tones down in shades of white, then glaze (?) over the top with orange to get a smooth orange? Tamika tape for hard line edges. Silly putty for bulk coverage and everything else. Get rubber tipped sculpting tools to work it into details.
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Jun 14, 2017 09:20
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What is Tamika tape and why is it special? Nothing finding it on Google
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Jun 14, 2017 16:26
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Mugaaz posted:What is Tamika tape and why is it special? Nothing finding it on Google He typo-ed Tamiya. Now I wish "Tamika tape" was some weird Japanese fetish thing and that you would have been taken on a journey of the senses.
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Jun 14, 2017 16:34
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Tamiya tape. It's painter's tape but with thinner lines and softer tack that works better for minis.
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Jun 14, 2017 16:39
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Cross posting from the 40k thread - just based my first dude in like 14 years. The slime river is the nurgle's rot technical paint, and it looks better in person (and maybe also when I take a better pic). I'm considering mixing some earthshade wash into another layer on it to help it not blend in with the green on the loincloth and armor. 
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Jun 14, 2017 17:04
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maybe wash the edges of rock where the slime is? Right now they're very separate and don't blend together at all.
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Jun 14, 2017 18:19
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Mugaaz posted:What is Tamika tape and why is it special? Nothing finding it on Google poo poo, sorry. Phone posting  I do mean Tamiya tape. Video showing silly putty masking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZhxSs70wgo Tamiya do standard yellow tape, but also white tape "for curves" that has some give in it so you can do things like this:  If I'm doing something big enough to justify it i'll do the clean edges of a large mask with white/yellow tape and then the bulk with putty instead of trying to tape paper over it or whatever.
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Jun 14, 2017 19:34
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TTerrible posted:poo poo, sorry. Phone posting blutac/poster putty stuff also works well. I keep a ton of that around for like, dry fitting entire kits together when they have multiple sub assemblies, or sticking stuff to corks to airbrush, or masking parts, or holding stuff up while it glues, etc.
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Jun 14, 2017 19:38
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General Olloth posted:blutac/poster putty stuff also works well. I keep a ton of that around for like, dry fitting entire kits together when they have multiple sub assemblies, or sticking stuff to corks to airbrush, or masking parts, or holding stuff up while it glues, etc. I seem to do something that makes blutac lose its ability to stick to things. A ton of guides say getting paint/varnish/whatever on the tac is fine as long as you mix it back into a big blog and work it a bit but I'm not so sure. I need to get one of those multi-headed hydra clamp things from eBay for holding stuff for spraying I think.
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Jun 14, 2017 19:44
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TTerrible posted:I seem to do something that makes blutac lose its ability to stick to things. A ton of guides say getting paint/varnish/whatever on the tac is fine as long as you mix it back into a big blog and work it a bit but I'm not so sure. I need to get one of those multi-headed hydra clamp things from eBay for holding stuff for spraying I think. It eventually gets too much paint but I bought like a 4 pack of 4 sticks each on Amazon for like $12 so I don't see myself really running out for a while.
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Jun 14, 2017 19:51
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Southern Heel posted:maybe wash the edges of rock where the slime is? Right now they're very separate and don't blend together at all. Good call. I'll give that a try tonight. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Jun 14, 2017 20:23
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Any idea what this guy starts using at 6:26 to remove the extra wash? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWCGNhdAmo0 I'm still new to this, but I thought you were stuck dry brushing over wash with the original color if you fudged it like that.
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Jun 14, 2017 20:37
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OptimusWang posted:Any idea what this guy starts using at 6:26 to remove the extra wash? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWCGNhdAmo0 He's just soaking up the excess wash with an empty brush.
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Jun 14, 2017 20:44
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OptimusWang posted:Any idea what this guy starts using at 6:26 to remove the extra wash? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWCGNhdAmo0 Just a clean brush isn't it? It'll absorb excess was while it's still wet.
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Jun 14, 2017 20:44
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Just a clean brush isn't it? It'll absorb excess was while it's still wet. Oh drat, then I'm just too slow. I've used a brush for pulling little blurbs of wash out when it pools, but washing an entire model, then having time to go back and mess with the wash is faster than I can comfortably go right now.
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Jun 14, 2017 20:58
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Geoff Zahn posted:Cross posting from the 40k thread - just based my first dude in like 14 years. The slime river is the nurgle's rot technical paint, and it looks better in person (and maybe also when I take a better pic). I'm considering mixing some earthshade wash into another layer on it to help it not blend in with the green on the loincloth and armor. To see how shores soaking a liquid works, I think looking up what you think it would look like in Google images is a good idea. "Antifreeze spill" gave me this.  Its not antifreeze but people think it's just an organic chemical that reacts to UV light to turn into that. I think they use it to show sewage leaks
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Jun 14, 2017 21:12
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Good call, thanks! If I'm looking at it right, a very watered down coat of nurgle's rot into the edges to soak it in between the rocks, and some earthshade wash over that on the edges to give it some contrast should make it look pretty good then?
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Jun 14, 2017 21:26
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Geoff Zahn posted:Cross posting from the 40k thread - just based my first dude in like 14 years. The slime river is the nurgle's rot technical paint, and it looks better in person (and maybe also when I take a better pic). I'm considering mixing some earthshade wash into another layer on it to help it not blend in with the green on the loincloth and armor. I just wanna say that your plague marine looks ace. Really like the color scheme you got going there.
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Jun 14, 2017 21:35
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Thanks! I was trying to make them look similar to the original legion scheme. I might tweak some of the colors (like switching the gold to brass or rusted iron), but overall I'm happy with this over the usual green Death Guard. I'm going to try to get some more pinks/purples in there to give it some "pop" alongside the green and orange - I'm hoping that sticking with secondary colors will make them great.
Fake James fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 22:10
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