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Phone posting to say the Noctua is literally the biggest thing I have ever handled computer component wise and I spent a good chunk of time just laughing at it.
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Jun 14, 2017 03:03
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pakman posted:With your changes and the others suggested above my previous post, would this be a littler better? Well, first, if you have a Micro Center nearby, you can save $30 buying the CPU and motherboard from them in a bundle. Also, don't pair DDR4-2400 with a Z270, you'll want DDR4-3000 or 3200 (the price scales upward exponentially past 3200Mhz), as higher-speed RAM helps with minimum frame rate. The thread favorite is the Corsair LPX series as they have the least ostentatious heat spreaders, but quite honestly, RAM is RAM, and Corsair being more expensive is because they've actually got a decent North American RMA/service framework. Here's the LPX 3000Mhz 2x8GB set: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233852 And the 3200Mhz 2x8GB set: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233859 DDR4-3866 2x8 will cost you roughly what you were going to pay for 2x16 2400, so ~$230. And yeah, with the SSDs, you'll want to look at the manual and find which M.2 port on the board is keyed for NVMe *and* SATA and put the WD Blue in that one, and the 960 EVO in the NVMe-only slot. Doing this will disable one of your SATA ports (since the shared slot is linked to it), but it should tell you which. Only other thing I can recommend is that occasionally Dell puts their 24" G-Sync 144Hz 1440p monitor up for sale for $399 or under, and that'll be a much better monitor to pair with a 1080 than that Acer, but unfortunately the low end for G-Sync monitors is very slim pickins and the price of admission generally starts at no lower than $349 for a TN screen and $450-550 for IPS. Wirth1000 posted:Phone posting to say the Noctua is literally the biggest thing I have ever handled computer component wise and I spent a good chunk of time just laughing at it. This is what I have in mine, although I didn't go three-fan, only two: 
BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 03:52
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Everything's up and running but gotta head to bed now. Installed Ryzen master and the temperature looked odd. 35 degree but it would spike to like 44 then back down. I don't know if this is normal for a 1600X but I had a feeling i put too much thermal paste.
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Jun 14, 2017 04:09
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Wirth1000 posted:Everything's up and running but gotta head to bed now. Installed Ryzen master and the temperature looked odd. 35 degree but it would spike to like 44 then back down. Those temps are perfectly fine, and actually pretty great. You have tonnes of headroom before your temps will be an issue.
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Jun 14, 2017 04:15
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Alright so my final build: Stuff discussed ITT already CPU: Ryzen 5 1600x $345 MOBO: Asus Prime b350M-a $119 GPU: MSI 1070 $589 http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=37110 New stuff: SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 256SSD $139 HDD: WD Blue 2tb $94 This is in conjunction with a WD Blue 1tb and samsung 840 evo (I think) SSD that are a few years old from my previous PC PSU, I currently have an antec edge 650w. It came out in 2013, I'm not sure if I need to replace it or if I can keep my old one? is 550w enough to power everything so far? Old one: http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=706887&fid=5022132&lan=nz Stuff recommended to me already: http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=33430 http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=38753 RAM http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=33296 Corsair 16GB 3000mhz DDR4 $189 CPU Cooler http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=19152 That should work with AM4 right? It doesn't explicitly say on a lot of them Also, wheres the best place to buy Windows? I figure I have to rebuy it because I'm getting a new motherboard? I'm currently running windows 10, that was upgraded from windows 8, that my friend got for free from his uni. I'm pretty sure the license was supposed to expire when he graduated but I still get updates and I have no way of knowing whether or not it counts as an OEM key or anything like that. Can anyone recommend a good case with excellent airflow? . I kinda like the looks of this one http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=34747 But I know 0 about airflow. My priorities are airflow and price, but I'd prefer to have something subtle if possible. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 05:30
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This is the only AM4-certified cooler on UMart: http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=38408 That Coolermaster will likely require this since it doesn't explicitly claim it comes with it: https://www.mwave.com.au/product/cooler-master-amd-socket-am4-for-hyper-series-coolers-mounting-kit-ac04987 That's the most frustrating thing about the Ryzens - so many of the aftermarket HSFs work, but only with adapters. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 05:59
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I had this great plan worked out where I bought a really nice freesync monitor earlier this year (xf270hu) and planned to do a coffee lake/Vega build to replace my current aging machine in Aug/Sep. But now 6c coffee lakes are delayed until 2018(!) and I will not be able to pick up an amd card for the foreseeable future. Currently feeling: lost, sad
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Jun 14, 2017 06:03
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BIG HEADLINE posted:This is the only AM4-certified cooler on UMart: http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=38408 I'll grab that then. What are your thoughts on the PSU/case situation? They are the parts I'm not so sure about
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Jun 14, 2017 06:18
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Following up on my previous post, taking the feedback into account: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor (£284.89 @ CCL Computers) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 SE-AM4 140.2 CFM CPU Cooler (£74.99 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: Asus - CROSSHAIR VI HERO ATX AM4 Motherboard (£208.57 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£274.99 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (£398.76 @ Aria PC) Storage: Western Digital - Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (£85.44 @ Aria PC) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB FTW3 GAMING iCX Video Card (£739.90 @ Alza) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case (£162.15 @ CCL Computers) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (£107.66 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit Monitor: Asus - ROG SWIFT PG348Q 34.0" 3440x1440 100Hz Monitor (£959.94 @ Aria PC) Total: £3297.29 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-14 08:28 BST+0100 I decided to go with Ryzen. I spent a bunch of time checking out the gaming performance here and it does look like Ryzen (overclocked) can keep up with a 7700K, especially with fast RAM (and according to this weirdo can sometimes even beat it). The extra cores seemed too good to pass up for the productivity side of things, which I suppose I'm going to be spending more time doing anyway. Speaking of RAM, that's definitely been the hardest part of this. Firstly, I am sticking with 32GB because I have had issues with just 16GB running all the VMs I want to run + all the other crap, but this does put me straight into seemingly quite unknown territory when it comes to Ryzen speed and compatibility, because everyone apparently only tests with 2x8GB sticks. As best as I can tell the RAM I've chosen should be… okay… but I'm a bit nervous. The benchmarks on the gaming side are pretty clear that if I can't get this RAM to run at full speed I'm leaving an absolute ton of performance on the table. I'd be annoyed with that, because I'm shelling out for a 1080Ti and don't really want to start facing bottlenecks because my CPU is being an arse. Other than that I think things are looking okay. In terms of storage the only real change I'm likely to make is adding a small (non-m.2) SSD just to host my OSes (dual booting Linux/Windows), at least until I decide to put together a NAS and replace that internal spinning disk. I believe the case should be compatible with everything I've picked as well, though I'm wondering if in the future I'll end up replacing the massive, ugly CPU cooler with an AIO just because the case is covered in tempered glass. I suppose I'd prefer a completely solid thing but I can't find any cases without glass that don't also look like total rear end to me, so this will be fine for now. So, yeah, feel like I'm nearly there and ready to purchase this bugger.
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Jun 14, 2017 08:46
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Food for thought: - If you are buying a 1700 and expecting to OC to 1700x performance, note that whilst possible this isn't guaranteed. 1700s are 1700x/1800x chips binned to run with lower voltage. You're rolling the dice on whether you'll get that (likely not, or it'd be sold as such). Ryzen fanboys will use the cost of the 1700 and the performance of the 1700x together to show how amazing Ryzen is, but this is a lot like assuming your 7600k will run at 4.9Ghz. Whether or not you can run the RAM at the higher speeds with an overclock is also uncertain. This all to say - if you want the higher performance buy the higher end chips. - Intel are putting out 6c/12t chips next year that'll bridge the better single threaded performance and 'productivity' metrics. - A 7700k is already better if you want to max out high FPS.
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Jun 14, 2017 09:55
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Khablam posted:Food for thought: The price difference between a 1700 and 1700X is pretty significant. From my preferred supplier, a 1700 is £296.94 whereas a 1700X is £344.99, more than a 7700K. That said, I had been considering it and it slipped my mind when making the post. Being able to OC as close to 4GHz as possible is going to be vital to making this system work well, so it may be worth going for the X just to be more assured of that (and I guess £50 in a £3500 system is a reasonable premium for that). The 1800X is probably too expensive to make it worth buying, though. I'll research more about the RAM + CPU overclock with Ryzen, but so far it does look like as long as the RAM is compatible it generally comes out fine. Khablam posted:- Intel are putting out 6c/12t chips next year that'll bridge the better single threaded performance and 'productivity' metrics. I already held off buying a new PC to wait and see with Ryzen and for the 1080Ti to come out. Next year is too far away to make it a serious consideration for me, honestly, especially as I understand the Intel CPUs will be getting a new socket (maybe I'm mistaken though, I haven't looked too deeply into it), so I would have to shell out a lot more to make that upgrade than seems necessary. Khablam posted:- A 7700k is already better if you want to max out high FPS. Definitely, which is why I went with the 7700K in my original post. However, I feel like I'm going to benefit a lot from the extra cores in my non-gaming workloads, and (as long as everything fits together properly in terms of compatibility and overclock) Ryzen is showing good enough performance to satisfy my gaming use. EDIT: I've taken another look at the whole 32GB RAM with Ryzen thing, and it currently doesn't actually look very promising as a whole. That's a bind for me. Ryzen is worth it for me because of workload (more cores, keeping this for 4-5 years based on past habits). But to make that worth it, I need 32GB RAM. But 32GB RAM is going to throttle the performance of Ryzen because it's so finicky about what it supports… Intel's 4 cores is going to limit me, but 16GB RAM is going to limit me. Goddammit AMD! EDIT2: 16GB RAM on Ryzen is probably the compromise to make here. There's a better chance of Ryzen improving its memory support than a 7700K gaining four more cores… Chunks Hammerdong fucked around with this message at 11:36 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 10:45
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Sorry I know ive asked this question before but im at a crossroads of what to do right now in terms of upgrades, at some point soon i want to upgrade my main monitor from a 1080p 60hz to at least a 1080 144hz. However im in two minds about what to do. Current setup is 3x 1080p 60hz monitors being driven by a single GTX970. My course of actions that ive been contemplating are: * Just upgrade the main monitor to a 1080 144hz, and keep my current card and then flank the main monitor with 25" 1440p 60hz * Upgrade the main to a 27" 1440p 144hz, with the idea of upgrading to 1080/ti when the prices crash or drop down a bit What sort of improvement am i likely to see by just upgrading to a 1080 144hz? Or is it just worth going straight for a 1440p with the idea to get a gpu later down the line that can properly drive it... Seriously looking for advice with this as i cant really decide what to do CyberPingu fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 11:29
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TheDukeOfFail posted:Following up on my previous post, taking the feedback into account: Wait for X299, comes out in 1.5 weeks. You are spending bogobucks on a motherboard and M.2 SSD and if you move stuff around you'll definitely fit a 7800x into the same budget. It is looking to combine the gaming performance of the 7700K with the multithreaded performance of the 1700. Plus it has much more mature ram support following on from Kabylake and will run 4000MHz+ ram with no more tinkering than an XMP profile. You will literally never see a difference of the M.2 SSD over a SATA one in gaming/programming workloads, but if you want it for the cool factor I'd recommend a smaller M.2 boot drive and a secondary SSD. That monitor is about to be replaced by newer versions with a upgraded 144Hz native panel with overclocking to 200Hz. It's going to be a definite upgrade, and I don't want you to feel that you spend 1000£ on a monitor that is then immediately replaced by something newer. This is less paramount and probably a bit longer wait than for X299, but if you have a current monitor then you can use your awesome rig with the older one to tide you over. The WD blues >1TB are rebranded WD Greens and total garbage. Swap it out for something 7200RPM like a baracuda or HGST drive. If the cooler aesthetics are a big deal to you, the TC14PE is close to identical in performance to the D15 while coming in a range of colours. It's often a bit cheaper too.
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Jun 14, 2017 11:39
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BurritoJustice posted:Wait for X299, comes out in 1.5 weeks. You are spending bogobucks on a motherboard and M.2 SSD and if you move stuff around you'll definitely fit a 7800x into the same budget. It is looking to combine the gaming performance of the 7700K with the multithreaded performance of the 1700. Plus it has much more mature ram support following on from Kabylake and will run 4000MHz+ ram with no more tinkering than an XMP profile. I didn't realise the new Intel chips were coming out that soon. I can wait that long to see if they're worth it, though they sound pretty… fudged. Worth checking out though. BurritoJustice posted:You will literally never see a difference of the M.2 SSD over a SATA one in gaming/programming workloads, but if you want it for the cool factor I'd recommend a smaller M.2 boot drive and a secondary SSD. I had wondered. I'm not really interested in cool factor here and will happily drop down the SSD price (or even just go right away for multiple of them) if I'm not going to even notice it. BurritoJustice posted:That monitor is about to be replaced by newer versions with a upgraded 144Hz native panel with overclocking to 200Hz. It's going to be a definite upgrade, and I don't want you to feel that you spend 1000£ on a monitor that is then immediately replaced by something newer. This is less paramount and probably a bit longer wait than for X299, but if you have a current monitor then you can use your awesome rig with the older one to tide you over. This is 100% news to me. I looked it up and the upcoming replacement does look pretty nice. My last monitor I kept for near-enough a decade (it still works but it got replaced with a pair of cheapo-1080p screens I nicked from work) so I'm absolutely willing to wait on something like that. BurritoJustice posted:The WD blues >1TB are rebranded WD Greens and total garbage. Swap it out for something 7200RPM like a baracuda or HGST drive. Will check this stuff out, thanks.
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Jun 14, 2017 12:47
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Well, first, if you have a Micro Center nearby, you can save $30 buying the CPU and motherboard from them in a bundle. Also, don't pair DDR4-2400 with a Z270, you'll want DDR4-3000 or 3200 (the price scales upward exponentially past 3200Mhz), as higher-speed RAM helps with minimum frame rate. The thread favorite is the Corsair LPX series as they have the least ostentatious heat spreaders, but quite honestly, RAM is RAM, and Corsair being more expensive is because they've actually got a decent North American RMA/service framework. Thanks for the help. I'm at work right now and phone posting, so I'll have to take a look at this later today when I get home.
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Jun 14, 2017 12:52
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TheDukeOfFail posted:I didn't realise the new Intel chips were coming out that soon. I can wait that long to see if they're worth it, though they sound pretty… fudged. Worth checking out though. It is important to note that while there is a lot of deserved criticism for Core-X, it is almost all from a market segmentation/chipset perspective (differing PCI-E lanes, Kaby-x existing and the confusion that causes for motherboard makers and buys, VROC parity raids costing extra, TIM vs Solder, delayed HCC chips). None of the issues are particularly relevant to your use case, and absolutely no-one is doubting that Skylake-X is going to take the consumer performance crown. The 6 and 8 core Skylakes are actually priced reasonably, at just more than a 1700x and 1800x respectively, and they offer much faster single thread performance; quad channel memory, and more PCI-E lanes. Skylake-X will actually have higher IPC (performance at the same clock, essentially) than Kabylake as the L2 cache is quadrupled, and it is made on the same 14nm+ process as Kabylake that gives it the overclocking advantage over regular Skylake. Overclocks are temp limited due to having many more cores, but the 6 core should easily clock to the high 4GHz. Of course, overclocking performance is not known for sure until after release. I like Silicon Lottery for buying CPUs for overclocking as they can guarantee a certain clock and can delid for a nominal fee which is likely to be relevant. quote:This is 100% news to me. I looked it up and the upcoming replacement does look pretty nice. My last monitor I kept for near-enough a decade (it still works but it got replaced with a pair of cheapo-1080p screens I nicked from work) so I'm absolutely willing to wait on something like that. There are two 21:9 1440p 200Hz panels that are going to be coming out soon, and it is important to know the difference because one of them is very likely to be garbage. The Asus PG35VQ and Acer X35 both use a AUOptronics AMVA panel with QD film that is native 144Hz. This lets them do HDR with impressive contrast, but VA panels are terrible for high refresh displays. There is not a high refresh VA panel currently made that doesn't suffer from ghosting/overshoot/flickering. The panels simply cannot keep up with the high refresh rates that they are pushed to. The Alienware AW3418DW (basically a Dell monitor) and Acer X34P will use a LG.Display AH-IPS panel that is native 144Hz. These poo poo all over AMVA for both motion fluidity and picture quality, and this example is likely to be the best panel on the market. An easy way to tell is that all the AMVA Ultrawides are 35" and the AH-IPS ones are 34"
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Jun 14, 2017 15:55
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I was looking at either https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16814487244 or https://m.newegg.com/products/14-487-319 but not really sure the difference and if the higher price on the second card is worth it. Is it just the slightly higher clock speed and a different cooler? Then there was this one https://m.newegg.com/products/14-487-245 posted last page that is more expensive than the other two but the same clock speed. Is that due to SLI support?
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Jun 14, 2017 17:38
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So I'm outgrowing my 256gb 850 Pro SSD in my GA-Z77x-UD3H system and found a nice deal on a 500gb 960 EVO M.2 drive which I pulled the trigger on. I ordered a PCI-e adapter for it as well and my understanding is I will also have to mod my BIOS to be able to boot from it, which is my intent. Has anyone something similar and got an M.2 NVMe drive running on an older board like this? I'm beginning to worry it might be a little outside my technical capabilites. Also, is it OK to clone my existing SATA SSD to the new M.2 or should I do a fresh install? I'm still running Windows 7 and would prefer not to upgrade to 10 at this time.
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Jun 14, 2017 18:39
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willroc7 posted:So I'm outgrowing my 256gb 850 Pro SSD in my GA-Z77x-UD3H system and found a nice deal on a 500gb 960 EVO M.2 drive which I pulled the trigger on. I ordered a PCI-e adapter for it as well and my understanding is I will also have to mod my BIOS to be able to boot from it, which is my intent. Has anyone something similar and got an M.2 NVMe drive running on an older board like this? I'm beginning to worry it might be a little outside my technical capabilites. Also, is it OK to clone my existing SATA SSD to the new M.2 or should I do a fresh install? I'm still running Windows 7 and would prefer not to upgrade to 10 at this time. Support for PCIE disks in Windows 7 is really not too good. There might be the possibility that this simply won't work without Windows 10. According to the website https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-Z77X-UD3H-rev-10#support-dl the newest BIOS is from 2014 which doesn't good either. Still, download the BIOS update and install it, then try installing a new Windows 7 OS to your new disk (disconnect the SATA disk and put it somewhere safe in the meantime). If it doesn't work, try Windows 10. If that doesn't work either or you hate Windows 10 simply too much, you can still always return to your SATA disk and use the PCIE one for Steam etc. FYI you can alleviate most of the suck from Windows 10 by using a custom start menu like StartIsBack and running a privacy tweaker like ShutUp 10.
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Jun 14, 2017 19:19
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TheDukeOfFail posted:Definitely, which is why I went with the 7700K in my original post. However, I feel like I'm going to benefit a lot from the extra cores in my non-gaming workloads, and (as long as everything fits together properly in terms of compatibility and overclock) Ryzen is showing good enough performance to satisfy my gaming use. 4 GHz is really pushing it for Ryzen. If you want more cores at good clocks, wait two weeks for Skylake-X and buy a 7800X or 7820X (depending on your budget). It will also do much better than Ryzen in the memory department - you get quad-channel memory which lets you easily go to 32 GB with 4x8 GB DIMMs, and they can be random crap DIMMs instead of super-premo gaming memory. Skylake-X still has a big 'ol lead in single-thread performance so it will be better for gaming. Also, quad-channel memory may really help in some productivity stuff that's memory-bound.
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Jun 14, 2017 19:59
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hitachi posted:I was looking at either I love EVGA but they have a perplexing product stack, way too many SKUs with very minor differences between them. I would just buy the first one you linked since it's the cheapest, they all have basically the same cooler and any clock speed differences can be fixed with overclocking.
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Jun 14, 2017 20:05
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MaxxBot posted:I love EVGA but they have a perplexing product stack, way too many SKUs with very minor differences between them. I would just buy the first one you linked since it's the cheapest, they all have basically the same cooler and any clock speed differences can be fixed with overclocking. It used to make more sense in previous generations. With Pascal, you usually run into the chip's power limit before anything else, so super-beefy K1ngp1n Hall-of-Fame overengineered cards do almost nothing and all cards overclock to pretty much the same place. On top of that, GPU Boost 3.0 is "automatic self-overclocking", so you can't lock factory OCs behind higher-priced premium SKUs anymore. Really you need about 4 SKUs right now: FE, basic open-cooler (MSI Armor, EVGA ACX/ICX), a high-end open-cooler, and a liquid-cooled card. That's literally all the distinction you can make between cards. EVGA just hasn't adapted to a world where the basic model is within 2% of the top-of-the-line model. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 20:11
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Well, first, if you have a Micro Center nearby, you can save $30 buying the CPU and motherboard from them in a bundle. Also, don't pair DDR4-2400 with a Z270, you'll want DDR4-3000 or 3200 (the price scales upward exponentially past 3200Mhz), as higher-speed RAM helps with minimum frame rate. The thread favorite is the Corsair LPX series as they have the least ostentatious heat spreaders, but quite honestly, RAM is RAM, and Corsair being more expensive is because they've actually got a decent North American RMA/service framework. I am home from work now and had a chance to take a look. I changed out the RAM to 3200MHz. There's a $7 difference between the 3000 and 3200 so Im not all that concerned about that. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor ($227.88 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($40.66 @ Newegg Marketplace) Motherboard: Asus - PRIME Z270-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.49 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($135.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($127.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital - Blue 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($289.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($182.99 @ B&H) Total: $1654.87 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-14 17:28 EDT-0400 I was also looking at the MicroCenter website during lunch today, and while they didn't have the exact motherboard listed, here, they did have this one. Im not sure what the exact differences between the two are, but I do save a little bit of cash picking this up and the CPU at MicroCenter (there is one not far from where I am). As for the monitor, I'm guessing I'll be just fine with the one I picked out and I can always get the Dell one later.
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Jun 14, 2017 22:32
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Do I still need to get a Z270 chipset motherboard if I'm not overclocking? Looking at a m-ITX board. Can I get away with an older motherboard for the last generation? One that supports Gen 7 CPUs edit: something liek this? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130901&cm_re=mini-itx-_-13-130-901-_-Product E2M2 fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 22:32
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pakman posted:I was also looking at the MicroCenter website during lunch today, and while they didn't have the exact motherboard listed, here, they did have this one. Im not sure what the exact differences between the two are, but I do save a little bit of cash picking this up and the CPU at MicroCenter (there is one not far from where I am). As for the monitor, I'm guessing I'll be just fine with the one I picked out and I can always get the Dell one later. The R looks like a very slightly cost-reduced version, no DVI or DisplayPort output and only one of the PCIe slots is reinforced. Possibly there might be a few physical buttons removed as well (CMOS Reset and XMP toggle). You'll have to short the CMOS headers by hand to reset the CMOS and get into your UEFI to enable XMP. Overall no big deal and if it saves you $30 then go for it. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 23:23
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pakman posted:I was also looking at the MicroCenter website during lunch today, and while they didn't have the exact motherboard listed, here, they did have this one. Im not sure what the exact differences between the two are, but I do save a little bit of cash picking this up and the CPU at MicroCenter (there is one not far from where I am). As for the monitor, I'm guessing I'll be just fine with the one I picked out and I can always get the Dell one later. It seems the only glaring difference between the "A" and "AR" boards is that the "A" SKU comes with a DVI and DP port for the integrated iGPU, while the "AR" SKU only has an HDMI port. Other than that they're identical. E2M2 posted:Do I still need to get a Z270 chipset motherboard if I'm not overclocking? Looking at a m-ITX board. Will another $20 kill you? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157737 BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 23:29
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E2M2 posted:Do I still need to get a Z270 chipset motherboard if I'm not overclocking? Looking at a m-ITX board. No, but you should strongly consider it anyway. The H-series cannot run memory faster than 2133, you're removing any chance of a K-series upgrade down the line (or overclocking them, at least), and hurting your resale value (a buyer may want to use it for gaming). Usually the cost difference is relatively minimal (for ATX/mATX boards), although it does look like it'll be $60 more expensive here to get a Z170 or Z270 mITX board. Note that if you go with a 7000-series processor on an older board you need to check the compatibility list for that motherboard. They will list the first BIOS version that supports that processor, which for a 100-series chipset like H110 or Z170 will almost certainly not be the first version. Then you need to look at the board features and see whether there is a "USB flashback" or "Q-flash" mode on that board that works without needing a CPU installed, or see if there's a socketed SPI chip you can flash yourself. If not, you will need a Skylake processor (6000-series) to update the UEFI before you can use a Kaby Lake processor on that board. Or else you will need to find a computer repair shop and pay to have it flashed to a newer BIOS. (always check the compatibility list for any motherboard though, I've found at least one Z170 board that doesn't support the i3-6100 and I'm sure there are others.)
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Jun 14, 2017 23:36
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MaxxBot posted:I love EVGA but they have a perplexing product stack, way too many SKUs with very minor differences between them. I would just buy the first one you linked since it's the cheapest, they all have basically the same cooler and any clock speed differences can be fixed with overclocking. Thanks for clearing it up.
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Jun 15, 2017 00:04
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BIG HEADLINE posted:It seems the only glaring difference between the "A" and "AR" boards is that the "A" SKU comes with a DVI and DP port for the integrated iGPU, while the "AR" SKU only has an HDMI port. Other than that they're identical. Oh okay. Yea I guess I just bought this then.
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Jun 15, 2017 00:21
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E2M2 posted:Oh okay. Yea I guess I just bought this then. Also, the H270 takes DDR4-2400, just no higher.
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Jun 15, 2017 00:27
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What the step up DDR4-3000? So would DDR4-3000 still work in it?
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Jun 15, 2017 00:30
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E2M2 posted:What the step up DDR4-3000? So would DDR4-3000 still work in it? You'd be paying more money for nothing. Putting DDR4-3000 into anything other than a Z-series motherboard will result in it working, yet defaulting to the highest supported speed, which in this case would be 2400Mhz. So as long as you're sticking with an H270 board there's no reason to buy anything other than DDR4-2400.
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Jun 15, 2017 00:36
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Is there any chance of DDR3 prices coming back down? I went to toss another 8GB in my build from 2015 and the price has basically doubled from what I paid back then. I suppose I could just ebay some 1x8s as people migrate to DDR4.
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Jun 15, 2017 00:55
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Harik posted:Is there any chance of DDR3 prices coming back down? I went to toss another 8GB in my build from 2015 and the price has basically doubled from what I paid back then. No one's making DDR3 anymore, so the only price cuts you're going to see will be the occasional "we're tired of this taking up space on a shelf" ones. Also...2015? Make sure it's not DDR3L first before you look. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 15, 2017 00:57
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BIG HEADLINE posted:You'd be paying more money for nothing. Putting DDR4-3000 into anything other than a Z-series motherboard will result in it working, yet defaulting to the highest supported speed, which in this case would be 2400Mhz. So as long as you're sticking with an H270 board there's no reason to buy anything other than DDR4-2400. Thanks for the info. Any other huge differences between Z270 and H270?
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Jun 15, 2017 00:59
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E2M2 posted:Thanks for the info. Any other huge differences between Z270 and H270? The differences with RAM speeds and using K-chips to overclock, as discussed on this page.
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Jun 15, 2017 01:01
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There is one moderate difference between the H270 and Z270 that hasn't been listed - the Z270 has an extra four PCIe lanes (for a total of 24), but only when paired with an i3-i7, I believe. The H270 has 20. That means a Z270 can run two NVMe SSDs at full speed whereas an H270, even if it had twin M.2 slots, would *share* four PCIe lanes between them.
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Jun 15, 2017 01:07
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BIG HEADLINE posted:There is one moderate difference between the H270 and Z270 that hasn't been listed - the Z270 has an extra four PCIe lanes (for a total of 24), but only when paired with an i3-i7, I believe. The H270 has 20. That means a Z270 can run two NVMe SSDs at full speed whereas an H270, even if it had twin M.2 slots, would *share* four PCIe lanes between them. The 16 lanes the GPU uses are taken from the CPU (gen3), not the chipset(PCIe 3.0). A board with 20 lanes still has 20 PCIe available after a GPU is put in the 1x16 gen3 slot. I faded out of PC component interest a few years ago but I'm certain this is how it works on 100 and 200 series boards. It was a combined pool previously. 2 x (x4) shouldn't share bandwidth unless you have a lot of random network cards. H270 is also locked to 1x16, it can't do 2x8 or (1x8)+(2x4) Both have 30 HSIO lanes total. The b-boards are the extra crippled ones with 25 HSIO and 12 PCIe. I'm really not sure PCIe lanes are a limitation at all beyond hard-limiting potential SLI configs on cheaper chipsets or RAID0 hacks.
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Jun 15, 2017 01:53
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My computer at my office is getting a bit long in the tooth, so its time to upgrade my home computer and take my old one to the office. I am going with a Ryzen build, but I want you guys to take a look see to see if there are any glaring problems I missed out on. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($340.80 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 SE-AM4 140.2 CFM CPU Cooler ($89.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($95.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($135.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($219.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design - Define Mini C MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.89 @ Amazon) Other: SanDisk Cruzer Glide CZ60 8GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive- SDCZ60-008G-B35 ($6.29 @ Amazon) Total: $1083.84 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-14 20:59 EDT-0400 I already have a 1070, so I know my list is missing a video card. I assume I can still buy a windows 7 key from that guy in SA-Mart and install Windows 10 for cheap. My goal is to Overclock to 3.9ghz or 4.0 ghz.
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Jun 15, 2017 02:02
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BIG HEADLINE posted:No one's making DDR3 anymore, so the only price cuts you're going to see will be the occasional "we're tired of this taking up space on a shelf" ones. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG9E7O It was $35 when I bought it. People are still making DDR3 chips, since there's still a ton of popular phone ARM cores that use it. Maybe nobody is plopping them on DIMMS anymore, but DDR3 isn't completely EOL the way DDR2 is. Khablam posted:I'm really not sure PCIe lanes are a limitation at all beyond hard-limiting potential SLI configs on cheaper chipsets or RAID0 hacks. When 16x goes to the GPU and your 4x NVMe has to go through the chipset it can be a performance limiter, depending on various factors. 10GBE is a thing that's not too far in the future as well now that it's so trivial to saturate GBE off a home NAS. It's not come to a head for most consumers yet, but designing new archs and being stingy with PCIe is really limiting their lifespan. IO isn't going to be coming in any slower in 3 years. Harik fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 15, 2017 02:11
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