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Harik posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YG9E7O It was $35 when I bought it. Well, I know at one point when it was down in the $120 range that I was about to swap my 2x8 1600 sticks with this: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-2133MHz-HX321C11SRK2-16/dp/B00N9PVZG6 or https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-2400MHz-HX324C11SRK2-16/dp/B00N9PVZ3O For a slightly cheaper option, there's this: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x8GB-1866MHz/dp/B00J8E8Y5C
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Jun 15, 2017 02:20
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Well, I know at one point when it was down in the $120 range that I was about to swap my 2x8 1600 sticks with this: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-2133MHz-HX321C11SRK2-16/dp/B00N9PVZG6 or https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-2400MHz-HX324C11SRK2-16/dp/B00N9PVZ3O ... but you answered my question the first time and I should have thanked you instead of arguing. I5-4590 on an Asrock H97M PRO4 w/16gb ram. Already cramped due to not having dedicated NVMe so needing a card in the only 3.0 slot so as not to neuter my 960 EVO, which dumps the lesser-used GPU onto the 2.0 x8... $35 for another 8GB to dedicate to 1GB pages for the VM? Sure. Double or triple that for DDR3 in the middle of 2017? That's just throwing money away. If I find something cheap on ebay I'll grab it, otherwise I'll just deal until I can afford to do a refresh to a platform that handles virtualization better. Harik fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 15, 2017 02:43
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BIG HEADLINE posted:It seems the only glaring difference between the "A" and "AR" boards is that the "A" SKU comes with a DVI and DP port for the integrated iGPU, while the "AR" SKU only has an HDMI port. Other than that they're identical. So other than that small difference, is the build more or less good to go?
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Jun 15, 2017 02:58
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pakman posted:So other than that small difference, is the build more or less good to go? I'd be happy with it, if that means anything. Again, though - I do have to remind you that you're buying into a dying socket. Z370's due out in two months' time (supposedly), and your $1600 would likely buy you a similar system with a more current socket. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jun 15, 2017 |
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Jun 15, 2017 03:03
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As I mentioned a couple pages ago, I'm in canada looking to pick a gtx 1070 model: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=369 Any suggestions?
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Jun 15, 2017 04:18
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Harik posted:... but you answered my question the first time and I should have thanked you instead of arguing. No worries - I don't know everything. One good thing about high-speed DDR3 is that it might actually have some resale value once you decide to upgrade - I've a feeling a lot of people are going to run their Sandys, Ivys, and Haswells until they die.
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Jun 15, 2017 05:25
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If I am happy with my 1920*1200 monitor and have no plans for the forseeable future to upgrade to 1440p+, would a 1060 be a good choice as a money saver? Will it max out current titles (and hopefully some future ones)? I really just want solid 60fps and for the games to look good.
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Jun 15, 2017 07:55
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For what it's worth, to save money I transferred over my 6GB 1060 from my last computer to my new system (7700k, 16GB DDR4-3000) and I've had success with using it at 1440p. No I can't max out absolutely everything, but I can get 60fps while only turning down ancillary settings and AA in pretty much every game. I'd say the most recent and graphically challenging game I've been running is probably new DOOM, just for reference. So, yeah, I'd say you'd be just fine with a 1060.
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Jun 15, 2017 10:26
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BIG HEADLINE posted:I'd be happy with it, if that means anything. Again, though - I do have to remind you that you're buying into a dying socket. Z370's due out in two months' time (supposedly), and your $1600 would likely buy you a similar system with a more current socket. I've been waiting over a year to build a new pc, but I'll bite, what are the advantages of waiting for this new socket? Every time i go to build something I'm told to wait because x is coming out soon, if i keep waiting i never actually build anything.
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Jun 15, 2017 12:54
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The new socket lets you upgrade your cpu later down the line. However, if you want a computer now and not in 2 months, get a computer now. It's not a huge deal.
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Jun 15, 2017 13:14
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Thats kinda speculative. The 370 socket will still be LGA1151 so current motherboards might take cannonlake processors, the upgrade is generally pretty minor and the next really new generation of processors is only coming in 2019.
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Jun 15, 2017 13:24
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underage at the vape shop posted:If I am happy with my 1920*1200 monitor and have no plans for the forseeable future to upgrade to 1440p+, would a 1060 be a good choice as a money saver? Will it max out current titles (and hopefully some future ones)? I really just want solid 60fps and for the games to look good. But the prices on 1060s are currently going insane at every outlet. Everyone's buying them up so stores are charging whatever they please.
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Jun 15, 2017 15:31
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Q_res posted:For what it's worth, to save money I transferred over my 6GB 1060 from my last computer to my new system (7700k, 16GB DDR4-3000) and I've had success with using it at 1440p. No I can't max out absolutely everything, but I can get 60fps while only turning down ancillary settings and AA in pretty much every game. I'd say the most recent and graphically challenging game I've been running is probably new DOOM, just for reference. seconded, I upgraded to 1440p and the 6GB 1060 still holds up fine. Some AAA titles (Witcher 3, Tomb Raider) dip to 45 FPS but still look OK with Gsync. Overwatch runs around 135 FPS average with low settings.
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Jun 15, 2017 17:19
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Wanna upgrade my old goonbox (Dell Inspiron w/ Pentium G3220 & GTX 750 TI) with a powerful compact system; how does this look: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€354.48 @ Amazon France) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus - Z170I PRO GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€155.89 @ Amazon France) Storage: Samsung - 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (€225.70 @ Amazon France) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card (Purchased For €0.00) Case: Fractal Design - Define Nano S Mini ITX Desktop Case (€69.99 @ Amazon France) Power Supply: Silverstone - 500W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply Total: €908.06 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-15 19:27 CEST+0200 Asus has a promotion here where you get a mail-in rebate for buying a skylake mobo&cpu, figured the difference with kaby lake is small enough to spring for it. I'll salvage my old gpu and upgrade later on. Thanks in advance 
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Jun 15, 2017 18:33
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Chikimiki posted:Wanna upgrade my old goonbox (Dell Inspiron w/ Pentium G3220 & GTX 750 TI) with a powerful compact system; how does this look: Consider going with the 960 Evo or the Intel 600p to save money on the SSD (or more capacity for the same money). Apparently the Corsair SFX PSUs are nicer than the Silverstone ones, from what I'm told. Also, if there is any price difference then DDR4-3000 is pretty much good enough, 3200+ start getting into diminishing returns territory. Your GPU will be on the weak side compared to your CPU, you might want to consider upgrading to a 1060 or something at some point. But overall it sounds fine to me.
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Jun 15, 2017 18:54
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peak debt posted:Thats kinda speculative. The 370 socket will still be LGA1151 so current motherboards might take cannonlake processors, the upgrade is generally pretty minor and the next really new generation of processors is only coming in 2019. All we know at the moment is that Z370 and Coffee Lake will be LGA1151V2. And he is right about the next generation - Icelake is their first new processor since Skylake, everything since has just been an improvement on that architecture. One thing I can reasonably call "nope" on is current motherboards being able to take Coffee/Cannonlake CPUs. The biggest speculation is whether or not Intel stays firm on their release date.
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Jun 15, 2017 21:24
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Prettz posted:Yeah the 6GB 1060 will keep you good for some time. You have to go up to gimmick resolutions with AA maxed on current games to get FPS under 60. Yeah some of the prices are a little ludicrous http://www.umart.com.au/newsite/goods.php?id=36087 How is that one though? Looks like it has good cooling?
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Jun 16, 2017 00:56
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Some motherboards come with this little block thing that lets you attach those stupid front-panel LED/switch female-header-socket cables out in the light and then just put the block in place as a unit, rather than having to needle-nose them in one by one in the bowels of your case. Any idea what that's called? It's baffling that nobody standardized this connector into a unit like the HD Audio or USB3 headers. Somebody big like Corsair or NZXT should throw the gauntlet and make up a standard connector unit pinout, and give you an adapter to the usual 2-pin cables so you can use it on anything anyway. Even if we end up with multiple standards at least we can get "universal to NZXT" adapters if needed. Just get the ball rolling already, those stupid 2-pin connectors are literally the worst part of the entire PC build nowadays. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 02:19
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underage at the vape shop posted:Yeah some of the prices are a little ludicrous I think all the 2-fan ones have good cooling. It pretty much just depends on what style of cooling you're looking for. For my case, I want one that blows out the back, so I'm looking at the PNY one.
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Jun 16, 2017 02:23
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Prettz posted:$365 dollars for a $240 card. Awesome. 240 usd? Umarts an aus site, so gotta pay australia tax + our dollars not great
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Jun 16, 2017 04:36
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underage at the vape shop posted:240 usd? Umarts an aus site, so gotta pay australia tax + our dollars not great
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Jun 16, 2017 04:43
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These are completely hypothetical builds that I have no intention of actually doing. More of a thought experiment. This is my attempt at a (hopefully) passively cooled silent gaming system. Build 1 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Thermalright - Le Grand Macho Fanless CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - H110M ECO Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($44.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg) Storage: PNY - CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($52.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Palit - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB KalmX Video Card ($176.00) Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: SeaSonic - X Series Fanless 460W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply ($109.90 @ B&H) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-A20 PWM 86.5 CFM 200mm Fan ($29.95 @ Amazon) Total: $686.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-16 00:50 EDT-0400 Build 2 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($74.89 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Thermalright - Le Grand Macho Fanless CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - B250M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($65.99 @ B&H) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.49 @ Adorama) Storage: PNY - CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($52.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Palit - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB KalmX Video Card ($176.00) Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - X Series Fanless 460W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply ($109.90 @ B&H) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Scythe - Slipstream 92.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($9.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) Total: $806.21 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-16 01:38 EDT-0400 A few notes: The first build includes parts I already own but for everyone else it's over $900. Not exactly a budget build. I still think the Thermaltake case is a good choice for this idea. It's essentially a huge vented box with plenty of head room for giant heat sinks. I also realize the addition of the fan means this isn't entirely passively cooled, it's there mostly for insurance. However the brand new (like just came out after Computex?) Noctua fan is currently the only 200mm PWM fan. It can run from 10.7 - 18.1 dbA at 350 - 800 RPM. The stock fan is a molex powered fossil. You could take off the front fan all together and use a 140mm fan on the heat sink. You'll just have to keep the speed down for maximum quietness. Finally the PSU. Seasonic makes a 400w version but the 460w is cheaper. What do you guys think? HP Artsandcrafts fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 06:36
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HP Artsandcrafts posted:What do you guys think? That this is a far better value for the money: http://www.microcenter.com/product/474127/G221_Desktop_Computer
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Jun 16, 2017 07:15
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BIG HEADLINE posted:That this is a far better value for the money: http://www.microcenter.com/product/474127/G221_Desktop_Computer Well, duh.  I just want to see if anyone can make a dead silent, passively cooled gaming computer without resorting to spending obscene amounts of money. Like without $200 plus specialty cases. Or how much you can dial it back and still play something like Battlefield 1?
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Jun 16, 2017 07:30
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Paul MaudDib posted:Consider going with the 960 Evo or the Intel 600p to save money on the SSD (or more capacity for the same money). Alright, thank you! Intel 600p are out of stock here everywhere I checked, so I'm gonna spring for the 960 Evo. The 3200 ram was just 10€ more Any recommended brands? Oh, and will that cpu cooler fit this mini itx case?Definitely gonna spring for a GPU update, but I'll wait for my next paycheck for that 
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Jun 16, 2017 07:33
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so when i did some upgrades last year i cheaped out and got some DDR4 running at 2133 (only put 2x 4GB sticks in there). How much of a difference would i see going up to 16GB 3200Mhz? I have a z170a so i shouldnt see any throttling as far as im aware
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Jun 16, 2017 10:05
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CyberPingu posted:so when i did some upgrades last year i cheaped out and got some DDR4 running at 2133 (only put 2x 4GB sticks in there). How much of a difference would i see going up to 16GB 3200Mhz? I have a z170a so i shouldnt see any throttling as far as im aware Higher-speed RAM won't boost your maximum frame rates, and you might only notice ~5% or less in a performance jump, but where it's been proven to help is boosting *minimum* frame rates, which can make FPS-dependent games feel smoother. We recommend 3000-3200Mhz on new builds because the 'smoothness' factor is a quality of life touch that helps a system continue to 'feel' fast years down the line, and it's one less thing to be tempted to buy when you start to feel a system's age. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 10:30 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 10:24
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Higher-speed RAM won't boost your maximum frame rates, and you might only notice ~5% or less in a performance jump, but where it's been proven to help is boosting *minimum* frame rates, which can make FPS-dependent games feel smoother. So basically not worth it. Good to know.
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Jun 16, 2017 10:30
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HP Artsandcrafts posted:Well, duh. A quick google turned up a review for that cooler you got there; https://www.nikktech.com/main/artic...howall=&start=5 If you don't want to click it shows it turning in a load result of 63°C running OCCT with an i7 3930K, so your i5 build would be very feasible. Also that 200mm Noctua at >800rpm will basically be silent
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Jun 16, 2017 10:31
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CyberPingu posted:So basically not worth it. Good to know. Well, not worth it *now*. If/when DDR4 prices drop, it might be a nice little system boost. The move from 8GB to 16GB depends on what you're trying to run, too. If you've got ~$120, go for it, I guess.
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Jun 16, 2017 10:35
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I'm looking for a mid/high end gaming PC. This is for sale locally: -Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor -Enermax ETS-T40F-RF 65.6 CFM CPU Cooler -MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard -G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory -Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive -Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive -MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card -Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case -Cooler Master 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply -Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit they're asking $900. I'm thinking of throwing an offer of $700 and seeing if they take it/what they counter with. What would you think a fair price for this rig would be or should I just buy that PowerSpec? Thanks.
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Jun 16, 2017 18:57
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AF posted:I'm looking for a mid/high end gaming PC. This is for sale locally: $650 seems like a fair price for this, assuming it's just somebody selling a PC used on craigslist.
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Jun 16, 2017 19:01
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AF posted:I'm looking for a mid/high end gaming PC. This is for sale locally: Definitely buy the Powerspec - this likely isn't warrantied, and remember that the 970's a 3.5GB card, not 4GB. The Powerspec nets you an 8GB 1070 for $100 more.
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Jun 16, 2017 22:07
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Chikimiki posted:Alright, thank you! Intel 600p are out of stock here everywhere I checked, so I'm gonna spring for the 960 Evo. The 3200 ram was just 10€ more Every company buys up bulk lots of memory chips and then bins them, so every company has a range of products that range from "great" to "lovely". I don't think there's any real difference between brands in a technical sense and I've never needed customer service at all. Overall just look for whatever's cheap. If it's $10 more for something that's slightly better then sure, but I'd rather go with 32 GB of decent memory than 16 GB of super gaming memory. One unfortunate caveat here, memory clocks are not the whole story. There is also a "CAS latency", which is how long between when you request a transfer and when it starts coming through (expressed in number of clock cycles). This is actually what's bottlenecking you in a lot of situations, so having faster clock rates doesn't necessarily help if it comes at the expense of an increase in CAS latency. It's really hard to improve this (it really hasn't changed much in 10 years) so increasing memory clocks will usually also increase CAS latency an equal amount. For example DDR4-3000 CAS15 is the same latency as DDR4-3600 CAS18. These will use a similar grade of memory chip and in theory you should be able to manually adjust the 3000 to similar timings. Again, just look for what's cheap, try to get decent timings. $10 more is fine but it's not worth dropping $50-100 more on the super premium gaming ultra memory. Especially when you could have twice as much regular memory and keep a billion chrome tabs open at once. Just to be clear, 960 Evo should be cheaper than the Pro. I like the Intel 600p for a budget NVMe offering but the Evo is nicer anyway.
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Jun 16, 2017 22:19
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Definitely buy the Powerspec - this likely isn't warrantied, and remember that the 970's a 3.5GB card, not 4GB. The Powerspec nets you an 8GB 1070 for $100 more. Wait, where's a $800 machine with a 1070?! Link?
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Jun 16, 2017 22:19
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Twerk from Home posted:Wait, where's a $800 machine with a 1070?! Link? It's $999. Go to microcenter.com and search 1070, then select "PowerSpec" from the left side options. Ignore the box that claims it has a 1070 with GDDR5X, as that's clearly a typo. Right now they're purchasable through their web store, but that's not always the case. Or: http://www.microcenter.com/product/475437/G314_Desktop_Computer BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 22:27
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Paul MaudDib posted:Every company buys up bulk lots of memory chips and then bins them, so every company has a range of products that range from "great" to "lovely". I don't think there's any real difference between brands in a technical sense and I've never needed customer service at all. A lot of this just isn't true anymore. Latency isn't anything you want to worry about, because it's a relative measure. Back years ago you could find "faster" RAM with really bad timings, making it net slower, but this hasn't been true through the whole of DDR3 and DDR4, there just isn't that much of a mis-match anymore. This chart shows how most manufacturers do it, you end up with approximately the same actual delay, or better:  RAM speed is also more important than RAM capacity, and has been for a while. 16Gb of fast RAM is going to perform better in any and all games than 32Gb of average RAM, and be cheaper. Overall though, yes just buy what's cheap within a given speed bracket.
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Jun 17, 2017 00:23
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I asked in the packrats thread but I might get a better and quicker response here: Is it a bad idea to run my headless server that's currently drawing between 30 and 40 watts from the wall, using a PSU that's designed to push much more power? I'm using my EVGA Supernova G2 650W. Will it shorten the lifetime of my hardware or throw up any other issues?
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Jun 17, 2017 10:11
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It'll be absolutely fine, the only downside is that it draw a few watts more than a smaller PSU would because it is running at the very bottom end its efficiency range.
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Jun 17, 2017 10:23
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Yeah. It's probably no different to leaving quite a high powered gaming machine idling with just a browser open. Just fewer processes running.
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Jun 17, 2017 11:02
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