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I've checked out a few vids on changing brake pads amd rotors for my vehicle (2008 Toyota Tacoma) and it seems easy enough that I'd like to give it a go. The thing I'm unsure of is how to suspend the front of the truck for the operation. Is a normal jack appropriate? Seems to me that something with a little more stability is in order, although I suppose that there are no greater forces acting on the truck during the pad/rotor change than during a tire change. Please advise. My wife will be furious if I crush myself with a truck unnecessarily.
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Jun 19, 2017 19:27
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Newf posted:I've checked out a few vids on changing brake pads amd rotors for my vehicle (2008 Toyota Tacoma) and it seems easy enough that I'd like to give it a go. The thing I'm unsure of is how to suspend the front of the truck for the operation. Is a normal jack appropriate? Seems to me that something with a little more stability is in order, although I suppose that there are no greater forces acting on the truck during the pad/rotor change than during a tire change. Put a jack stand under the a-arm, or wherever it'll hold nice and strong. A jack stand, not a jack 
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Jun 19, 2017 19:32
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Michael Scott posted:Do the quality of brake pads and rotors matter? I have a brake job coming up and would like to avoid $250 OEM pad kits. Rotors don't need to be replaced right? Depends on if your hub is built into the rotor like on the Ford Ranger and Explorer. If so, don't cheap out and also get new bearings or you're gonna have a bad time.
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Jun 19, 2017 19:37
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Newf posted:I've checked out a few vids on changing brake pads amd rotors for my vehicle (2008 Toyota Tacoma) and it seems easy enough that I'd like to give it a go. The thing I'm unsure of is how to suspend the front of the truck for the operation. Is a normal jack appropriate? Seems to me that something with a little more stability is in order, although I suppose that there are no greater forces acting on the truck during the pad/rotor change than during a tire change. Do you have your owners' manual? It will tell you where the appropriate placement is for jacking up your vehicle. You should then place jack stands, one per wheel lifted off the ground. You should also use wheel chocks on the wheels that are left on the ground - do not rely on only brakes or the transmission to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Do this on a flat even concrete surface, not on a slope. Use the jack to gently lower the vehicle onto the stand, but then leave the jack itself in place if you can, as extra insurance. Another common "trick" is after removing a wheel, lay the wheel flat and tuck it under the vehicle, so that if a stand or the jack fails, the wheel prevents the vehicle from hitting the ground. No matter what though, never get under a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Buy jack stands rated for about 1.5 to 2x the weight of your vehicle, for a nice safety margin. Here is a reasonable step by step process with illustrations: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-properly-use-a-floor-jack-and-jack-stands-by-brent-minderler
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Jun 19, 2017 20:03
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Astonishing Wang posted:Put a jack stand under the a-arm, or wherever it'll hold nice and strong. Do these count as jack stands? They've got 3-ton, 6-ton, and 12-ton versions of the same product. Carmax says that the Tacoma has a 'curb weight' of 3200 lbs but a 'gross vehicle weight for trucks' of 4550 lbs. e: hadn't seen the above post when I wrote mine. Having searched the terms, it looks like I'm judging from 'curb weight', under the assumption that I have the truck more or less emptied of heavy objects. 2x3200 ~= 6000 ~= 3 tons - so I should look at the pair of 3-ton jack stands? Newf fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Jun 19, 2017 |
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Jun 19, 2017 20:12
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A few 4"x4" chunks of wood would do the job, so yes those should be fine!
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Jun 19, 2017 20:17
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1988 Mercury Colony Park/ unknown mileage/ 302 efi I might be receiving ana.... A Merc Wagon for the first time, what are the common problems with these pension mobiles, are there any forums that specifically tailored to these cars, and where tf can I get interior parts for this thing? SO, this merc is in semi decent shape, it has ZERO TO LITTLE SURFACE RUST, aint that some poo poo. The interior is shot and looks like dogshit. I'll be replacing... well everything for the interior, dash, seats, some trim, headliner, lesbian carpet, and maybe the speakers. The exterior isn't too bad. It has a couple dents but it's repairable. Definelty swaping the 302 for a 351 with (maybe a c4 or an e4od) and a 3.73 rear w/LSD. Not trying to make it into a drag wagon, just want to make it more fun. Can anyone help this hipster repair this granny spankwagon?
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Jun 19, 2017 23:11
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kid sinister posted:I had a hard enough time getting it off as it was. I bought the finest Harbor Freight transmission jack to get it off, and while the jack did help get it down, getting it out on my driveway was another issue. The bellhousing is integrated on the M5OD-R2 so add another 6-8" to the height, and another 4" or so for the jack. I had to pump up my truck on the left side as high as my floor jack would go, then start spinning the transmission just to get it to clear the rail. When I did this I had bought Princess Auto RV scissor jacks and made stands for them out of 4x4 post then lifted the truck at the frame so I could slide the transmission in and out. If your engine is out you could get the motor and transmission back in with a hoist and a load leveler.
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Jun 19, 2017 23:19
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Newf posted:Do these count as jack stands? They've got 3-ton, 6-ton, and 12-ton versions of the same product. Carmax says that the Tacoma has a 'curb weight' of 3200 lbs but a 'gross vehicle weight for trucks' of 4550 lbs. Yes, those are jackstands. 3-ton would be fine but with the height of modern pickups, the 6-ton might be a better choice (I don't like having the support lifted way up out of the stand itself just to reach). Double check the owner's manual first, but I've never had a problem lifting the front of a body-on-frame 2WD truck by using the jack on the front crossmember, then placing jackstands under the emergency jacking points, usually near the front cab mounts. This should also work on IFS 4WD trucks.
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Jun 19, 2017 23:33
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BambiPowerBottom posted:1988 Mercury Colony Park/ unknown mileage/ 302 efi I wouldn't bother modifying it for performance. Its just not the right chassis. As far as problems go, the stock torque converter will eventually develop lockup shudder. The power window motors will fail. The 302 will use a bit of oil and a lot of gas but wont die until you try to make over 350hp with it. The rest is pretty tough.
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Jun 19, 2017 23:50
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Is there some magic trick to getting a transmission back on? It's a M5OD-R2 manual transmission for my 1988 F150. I can only get one bolt barely in and that's it. I've done the trick where you put the transmission in gear, then put the driveshaft in and spin it to get the splines to line up with the clutch plate, but I just can't get the bolts started. If I could get another fraction of an inch, I'd be in business.
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Jun 19, 2017 23:58
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kid sinister posted:Is there some magic trick to getting a transmission back on? It's a M5OD-R2 manual transmission for my 1988 F150. I can only get one bolt barely in and that's it. I've done the trick where you put the transmission in gear, then put the driveshaft in and spin it to get the splines to line up with the clutch plate, but I just can't get the bolts started. If I could get another fraction of an inch, I'd be in business. Can you tell if it's the input shaft that's not meshing, or if it's the dowel pins in the bellhousing? If it's the latter, you might need to wire brush the dowel pins to make sure they can go in smoothly
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Jun 20, 2017 00:48
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Raluek posted:Can you tell if it's the input shaft that's not meshing, or if it's the dowel pins in the bellhousing? If it's the latter, you might need to wire brush the dowel pins to make sure they can go in smoothly The dowel pins can barely touch. I thought that the input shaft is meshing. I did the trick with spinning the driveshaft so the splines line up. It went in a half inch after that and I can't spin the driveshaft anymore, but it's still not quite reaching.
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Jun 20, 2017 01:22
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1999 Nissan Altima, 250k miles. What does it mean/how bad should I be looking for a mechanic to hit me if the car sounds like it's running, up to a minute after I've turned the car off and key in my pocket? Also for the first time ever, it took the car about 5 mins to actually cool the AC. Not sure if those two are related.
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Jun 20, 2017 02:08
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kid sinister posted:The dowel pins can barely touch. I thought that the input shaft is meshing. I did the trick with spinning the driveshaft so the splines line up. It went in a half inch after that and I can't spin the driveshaft anymore, but it's still not quite reaching. It's a real son of a bitch. I mated mine outside of the engine bay and it was a terrible time. I think I might have hit it a bunch or used longer thinner bolts and pressed the whole deal together but I only have vague recollections.
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Jun 20, 2017 02:14
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Cowslips Warren posted:1999 Nissan Altima, 250k miles. That's interesting... Has that been going on for a while? I had a Corolla that would diesel after being turned off but it was carbureted. I think ignition off operation would be a lot less likely with EFI.
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Jun 20, 2017 02:25
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Boys who love boys
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Breakfast Feud posted:It's a real son of a bitch. I mated mine outside of the engine bay and it was a terrible time. I think I might have hit it a bunch or used longer thinner bolts and pressed the whole deal together but I only have vague recollections. So what's the verdict? Get out the C clamps?
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Jun 20, 2017 02:31
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I think it's worth a shot. I remember being half drunk and using plywood and a hammer I think (don't do that).
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Jun 20, 2017 02:53
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Any Canadian goons have recommendations where I should shop online for brake pads and rotors? Bonus points if you have a place in mind that ships out of Edmonton or Calgary or the like - I'm in Yellowknife.
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Jun 20, 2017 04:04
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Cowslips Warren posted:1999 Nissan Altima, 250k miles. Could be just a fan running? open the hood and see if the engine is really running after you turn it off. It shouldn't be, but a fan running for a while is normal, especially in hot weather or when you've been using th A/C.
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Jun 20, 2017 04:32
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Leperflesh posted:Could be just a fan running? open the hood and see if the engine is really running after you turn it off. It shouldn't be, but a fan running for a while is normal, especially in hot weather or when you've been using th A/C. I suppose it could be a fan, and it has happened before but always shut off within 30 seconds.
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Jun 20, 2017 05:17
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Leperflesh posted:Could be just a fan running? open the hood and see if the engine is really running after you turn it off. It shouldn't be, but a fan running for a while is normal, especially in hot weather or when you've been using th A/C. Cowslips Warren posted:I suppose it could be a fan, and it has happened before but always shut off within 30 seconds. Maybe your car is haunted, but if its not you have a faulty ignition switch unless these ppl are right and its just an "after-run fan" that's what I call it
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Jun 20, 2017 06:21
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Cowslips Warren posted:1999 Nissan Altima, 250k miles. Wait.. it's actually running? As in the engine is happily idling away and still responds to the throttle? Or is it something like the radiator fan staying on for a couple of minutes? If it's actually running, is the tach staying on and showing RPMs? If so, your ignition switch may be hosed. If it's running, but not showing anything, uh... zombies? If it's just the radiator fan staying on, your engine is way the gently caress too hot (former 99 Altima owner here, I know from my own experience that the fan won't keep running after you shut it off unless it's really loving hot). If that's the case, thermostat would be my first guess. The dash gauge really isn't something you can trust much on them; the sensor for the gauge is in the upper radiator hose neck (it's that single wire you see that connects to the upper hose neck), and nothing flows through that hose if the thermostat is stuck or if the water pump takes a poo poo (there's another sensor in the head that the engine computer uses to determine when the fan should run). Even down here in hot as gently caress TX, the only time the fan ever kept running on mine was when the engine was overheating. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:54 on Jun 20, 2017 |
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Jun 20, 2017 09:51
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Newf posted:Any Canadian goons have recommendations where I should shop online for brake pads and rotors? Bonus points if you have a place in mind that ships out of Edmonton or Calgary or the like - I'm in Yellowknife. This kit is miles cheaper than other options I've found. Any reason not to go for it?
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Jun 20, 2017 16:34
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My old car died recently as I was driving it to visit family out of state, does anyone have any particularly good/bad experiences with junk buyers? The car is currently in southeastern PA right now if it's location-specific. I would consider just donating it but I wasn't sure how that would work since it was registered in MD and I didn't know if out of state registration was a problem (MD website says you need to donate it to a charity licensed as a wholesale dealer in the state and the car is physically an hour from the state line).
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Jun 20, 2017 22:55
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So, at the what car should I buy thread's recommendation I got myself a prius. Specifically a 2005 prius but I'm having problems with the inverter cooling pump not running and it throwing P0A93. The old one was a bit rusty so I had figured it failed like seems to be common from my googling but the new one I got from the dealer doesn't work either. I checked the voltage coming out of the connector and it was only reading .3v. I also tried swapping the fuse to no effect. Does anyone have any ideas where to look first? The car sat for a few months before I got it because the AC had stopped working.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jun 21, 2017 |
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Jun 21, 2017 04:02
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.3v sounds like a bad relay or burned out driver. Wasnt there a recall or service campaign on those? I think its a common repair.
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Jun 21, 2017 04:10
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There was a recall but I believe the previous owner never did it before the recall ended, hence the one in there being rusty. The recall only covered the pump itself though. Any idea how I could find out what is burned out?
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Jun 21, 2017 04:14
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Google says its either the AM2 fuse or a relay which may or may not be integrated into a junction box. https://priuschat.com/threads/no-power-to-inverter-water-pump-motor.154765/ E: Start by backprobing the pump connector with the ignition on. If there is no power there, check the fuse, and then check the relay terminals to see if there is power there. Think of the relay as a big switch, if the pump is being commanded on, there should be power at 2 terminals. If your only seeing power at one your going to need an electrical schematic and start tracing wires. If that all checks out than it probably burned out the driver in the ecu that switches the relay on. rdb fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jun 21, 2017 |
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Jun 21, 2017 04:23
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All else equal, is FWD with traction control or AWD going to handle poor road conditions better? I'm probably getting a new car soon and I'm not sure if the incentive my company gives applies to any AWD vehicles. When I Google all I see are people trying to prove how smart they are by saying how it's really the tires that matter, ignoring the question at hand completely. I'll be getting good tires either way. To clarify, this would be dirt, snowy, icy, and wet roads. Probably not going up any forestry roads or anything unless it has the clearance to go along with it. God I hope a Subaru qualifies. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jun 21, 2017 |
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Jun 21, 2017 06:28
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Well, what are "poor road conditions"? If it's rain/snow, then yeah tires >>> all other considerations. "Poorly maintained dirt roads" and the like are another matter but you still want good tires. If you've got no traction and/or drive too fast for conditions, all the fancy awd/tcs tricks in the world won't save you; see all the videos of 4wd pickups spun off highways with a light dusting of snow. 4 times zero is still zero. E: 4wd doesn't help you with steering or stopping, only acceleration.
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Jun 21, 2017 06:38
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I hate to sound like an rear end in a top hat to people that are trying to help, but I know all of this already. That's why I said all else equal. I'm from Colorado, I've been driving in the snow ever since I started driving. I currently drive a pre-TC Subaru, and I've never had any problems with it (except the time I spun out on my back road the first time I tried driving it in fresh powder). What I'm wondering is if FWD with good TC would be an improvement or a downgrade. Of maybe it's a trade-off? It's probably going to mainly be my wife's car. She gets something nice so when we can afford another new car I can get something suitably AI and she can't complain. She's been driving pre-TC FWD cars since she learned to drive. But since my Subaru is the one dying, I want something capable of replacing it. I think I snuck my edit in while you were posting, so wet/icy/snowy/dirt roads. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Jun 21, 2017 |
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Jun 21, 2017 06:56
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Admittedly I haven't driven an AWD car, but I've driven a FWD car with traction control through two winters. I can't see the two being equal in any way, the TC is nice but if you're at all looking for performance or enjoyment from the ride then TC is not what you want. I had an HHR work car that was perfectly capable through the snow and never got hung up. Traction control does its thing and the car keeps moving. All wheel drive would have a definite advantage in not getting stuck.
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Jun 21, 2017 12:07
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If you're going to be in remote areas and/or parking on said messy roads, I would guess you'd want AWD to keep from getting stuck as easy. That's the main benefit as far as I'm concerned when it comes to weather capability.
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Jun 21, 2017 12:33
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Once good tyres are a given, yes, awd is better than 2wd with traction control. Traction control can only electronically manage what grip you have, and in truly loose or icy conditions a lot of implementations are an active hindrance. AWD with some form of limited slip or locking diffs and winter tyres is the ultimate solution. Be wary of traction control with AWD, it can be just as awful as with 2wd. A system that can be turned fully off is best.
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Jun 21, 2017 13:24
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Having spent the first 24 years of my life in the hills of upstate NY, where we got 150+ inches in a season, I can say with certainty that awd with snow tires is the best you can do. Traction control is poo poo for getting going in the snow if you need to actually spin the tires. It will just cut power, bog the engine and dig in. Testing my own FWD car on a steep hill in a foot of snow I was able to get farther up without TC. E: I had an Awd dsm for a short time and that was by far the best winter car. Way better than anything fwd in the snow. rdb fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Jun 21, 2017 |
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Jun 21, 2017 13:50
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Apologies if this is the wrong place for this but I am looking for tool set recommendations. I'm trying to find a place to get good recommendations on tool sets. I've got a few scattered random cheap Stanley toolsets and I'd like to sell those all off and consolidate with a nice set of sockets, wrenches, etc. These would be for some automotive work and also for general use. Basically I'm hoping to get a pretty substantial set of box wrenches in standard and metric and the same for a set of short and deep sockets in 3/8 and at least standard and metric in 1/4, possibly with some 1/2 drive as well but I can buy those more on an 'as need' basis. Would be nice to also grab one with a decent set of torx and hex head bits as well. I don't have a compressor nor am I looking at impact tools at this time. I grew up using Matco stuff in my dads shop and I'm well aware that's going to be far more than I need for my very limited use. I'd like to spend somewhere in the $300 range (or at least find out if that's too much to ask for at this price). Before I started shopping around I just wanted to find out what the decent budget tool vendors were and also ones that I should avoid like the plague. I'd also separately (or together if its a very comprehensive set) get channel locks, vice grips, couple pliers and screwdriver sets as well. If this isn't the right place to ask could you please let me know where to go?
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Jun 21, 2017 15:45
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Maybe try the tool thread for specifics. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2788369
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Jun 21, 2017 15:51
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Stupid question: should I get new tires first, or new struts first? According to the person I got the car from, struts have never been done (200k miles, so they are definitely shot). Tires I should probably get done before winter.. What should be my priority here?
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Jun 21, 2017 15:52
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Captain Yossarian posted:Stupid question: should I get new tires first, or new struts first? According to the person I got the car from, struts have never been done (200k miles, so they are definitely shot). Tires I should probably get done before winter.. What should be my priority here? How much tread do you have on your current tyres?
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Jun 21, 2017 15:55
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