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spog posted:How much tread do you have on your current tyres? I haven't measured them lately but they aren't like... Visibly bad, if that makes sense? They seemed to have plenty of tread from the last time I checked tire pressure.
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Jun 21, 2017 15:56
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InitialDave posted:Maybe try the tool thread for specifics. Huh. Jesus I looked around the forum and must have missed it. Thank you.
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Jun 21, 2017 15:57
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I should add I can get my struts on Amazon and my buddy will do them for a case of Busch light so that's probably the cheaper option lol
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Jun 21, 2017 15:58
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Captain Yossarian posted:I should add I can get my struts on Amazon and my buddy will do them for a case of Busch light so that's probably the cheaper option lol
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Jun 21, 2017 16:01
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Cage posted:Do that, save up and wait for the next good tire sale. Discount tire direct is usually good for this. Good idea thank you. Looking at Amazon, probably going to buy the whole quick strut. Any goon opinions on brands? I've used Monroe before, but I also see Moog- I bought Moog bearings but not sure about struts
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Jun 21, 2017 16:27
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Captain Yossarian posted:I haven't measured them lately but they aren't like... Visibly bad, if that makes sense? They seemed to have plenty of tread from the last time I checked tire pressure. Do yourself a favour and check the entire width of each tyre the next time you use the car.
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Jun 21, 2017 16:35
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Captain Yossarian posted:Good idea thank you. Looking at Amazon, probably going to buy the whole quick strut. Any goon opinions on brands? I've used Monroe before, but I also see Moog- I bought Moog bearings but not sure about struts Gonna quote myself to add here: I do not have the "police package" but basically every set of struts I find is for the police package. Are they interchangeable, as long as I have the right wheel size? Captain Yossarian fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Jun 21, 2017 |
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Jun 21, 2017 19:10
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Last page makes me wonder at what point 4wd became AWD.
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Jun 21, 2017 19:15
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tactlessbastard posted:Last page makes me wonder at what point 4wd became AWD. I think it was when the selector lever disappeared.
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Jun 21, 2017 19:20
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Boys who love boys
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tactlessbastard posted:Last page makes me wonder at what point 4wd became AWD. My personal opinion is don't worry about it too much, it's too subject to the vagaries of what a manufacturer wants to stick on the label etc. Broadly when people say 4WD or 4X4 they mean rufty-tufty off-road stuff, whereas AWD implies on-road/performance oriented stuff.
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Jun 21, 2017 20:01
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06 Scion xA/Yaris I feel vibration(?) coming from the front passenger side wheel, almost like it's slipping or stuttering several times a second. It always happens while accelerating from a dead stop, and it sometimes happens when maintaining highway speeds. It's hard to describe because I barely drive the thing, and the girlfriend barely notices that it happens, but any ideas what I should look at?
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Jun 21, 2017 21:06
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rdb posted:Having spent the first 24 years of my life in the hills of upstate NY, where we got 150+ inches in a season, I can say with certainty that awd with snow tires is the best you can do. Traction control is poo poo for getting going in the snow if you need to actually spin the tires. It will just cut power, bog the engine and dig in. Testing my own FWD car on a steep hill in a foot of snow I was able to get farther up without TC. That's what I was afraid of.  Just got the list and unless I want to buy an i8 or a Tesla, no 4WD/AWD cars anywhere on the list. Barely anything with conventional fuel at all, actually. It has to be a 9+ on the EPA GHG rating, basically. Not many options until very recent years and I really don't want a Civic hybrid / Prius.
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Jun 21, 2017 23:14
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Yeah a Prius has non disable-able traction control. Not a good idea if heavy snow is involved. I have had to drag mine up the driveway with our tractor a few too many times. Snow tires helped but I have still managed to get it stuck when snow comes over the bumper.
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Jun 22, 2017 00:38
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The Prius’s traction control is very sensitive to protect the electric motor from overspeeding. It can be set off by potholes.
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Jun 22, 2017 01:32
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The Door Frame posted:06 Scion xA/Yaris My first bet would be a CV joint. Vibrations in the suspension can come from a lot of different places, though.
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Jun 22, 2017 04:27
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rdb posted:Yeah a Prius has non disable-able traction control. Not a good idea if heavy snow is involved. I have had to drag mine up the driveway with our tractor a few too many times. Snow tires helped but I have still managed to get it stuck when snow comes over the bumper. You can disable it, but you have to go through a drat stupid process to do so and I think you have to do it every time you turn the car on, if I remember right.
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Jun 22, 2017 05:15
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So I finally got my M5OD-R2 transmission back on my 88 F150 today. I took it to a shop to get all the seals replaced. I was putting the driveshaft back on when I noticed that the slip yoke was pretty worn around where the transmission seals meet up. There were grooves big enough to feel with my finger. How concerned should I be? Was that the source of my leak in the first place? Or at least one of them? It was leaking out the shifter hole up top too.
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Jun 22, 2017 05:51
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Does it still leak? If so, then you should find a new yoke. They shouldn't be too hard to find.
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Jun 22, 2017 06:13
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Deteriorata posted:My first bet would be a CV joint. Vibrations in the suspension can come from a lot of different places, though. Yeah, suspension vibration is incredibly vague and my description probably wasn't incredibly helpful. I'll definitely check out the CV joints, because that car's got ~110k on it and lived in the rust belt its entire life. I wouldn't be surprised if one of those rubber boots got eaten up They don't need to be replaced in pairs for drive wheels, do they?
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Jun 22, 2017 06:49
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Well I just meant that I don't want the anemic performance or baggage that comes with a Prius, but that's even more of a reason. I have ideas to ask about, but I'll save that for the car buying thread in A/T.
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Jun 22, 2017 07:16
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I just picked up rear pads and rotors for my car from Rock auto. Raybestos. I know Raybestos is a reputable brand, or seems to be. But I didn't notice anything on the box about warranty. What is the warranty like on their products? The Pads are the EHT (enhanced hybrid Tecknologeeeeee) line. I don't care if these pads last forever, but I need them to last for a few years at least. Same with the rotors. The rotors are plated, or coated or whatever, and the entire surface is coated. I guess thats probably normal since they likely just dip the whole rotor in whatever coating solution they use. Should I take a sheet of emery cloth to the friction surface before I install this poo poo, or just let the pads wear it off? I want to make the gently caress sure that I break these things in properly...
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Jun 22, 2017 14:18
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wesleywillis posted:I just picked up rear pads and rotors for my car from Rock auto. Raybestos. wesleywillis posted:The rotors are plated, or coated or whatever, and the entire surface is coated. I guess thats probably normal since they likely just dip the whole rotor in whatever coating solution they use. Should I take a sheet of emery cloth to the friction surface before I install this poo poo, or just let the pads wear it off? I want to make the gently caress sure that I break these things in properly... If it's something heavier like a lacquer, then I don't know. *My last set of rear rotors with the parking brake in the hat were painted black on the hub and inside on the parking brake friction surface. It was kind of weird/surprising but since it was the parking brake I gave few fucks. I would drive around for a while with the parking brake dragging slightly, and not set it when I parked because the paint would cause the pads to stick. I would reapply the brake after everything had cooled. Got better after a couple of cycles of this.
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Jun 22, 2017 16:28
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The Door Frame posted:Yeah, suspension vibration is incredibly vague and my description probably wasn't incredibly helpful. I'll definitely check out the CV joints, because that car's got ~110k on it and lived in the rust belt its entire life. I wouldn't be surprised if one of those rubber boots got eaten up usually loose suspention will hardly ever cause a vibration and never before making a horrible noise first. A seperated cv tulup can cause a vibration but it's super noticable like you would stop driving right away because it feels really wrong. I would put a bet on a tire that is out of round or maybe she hit a pothole and bent the rim. Have a shop throw the wheel on a balancer or even just drive it in the air.
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Jun 22, 2017 16:35
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Does it still leak? If so, then you should find a new yoke. They shouldn't be too hard to find. I don't know, I haven't filled the transmission up yet. I ran out of daylight yesterday and I still need more fluid and a hand pump. I will be keeping an eye on it though.
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Jun 22, 2017 16:52
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kid sinister posted:I don't know, I haven't filled the transmission up yet. I ran out of daylight yesterday and I still need more fluid and a hand pump. I will be keeping an eye on it though. If you don't fix it you'll always be thinking about it  or is that just me?
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Jun 22, 2017 17:01
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Astonishing Wang posted:If you don't fix it you'll always be thinking about it Same. 50% of my repairs are because a part looks slightly-iffy and could potentially be causing that leak/clunk/sound that I thought I might have heard or noticed, and if I fixed it I could relax. But I worry even more about the parts I replace...
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Jun 22, 2017 17:13
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monsterzero posted:If you look up the part on Rockauto there is a warranty link. It's probably 1-year, but you should check. Yeah, its an anti rust coating. It'd be easier for them to just coat the entire thing, than to mask off parts of it and only coat the hat etc. Come to think of it, I put coasted rotors on the front a year or two ago. I think I just started driving and the poo poo wore off after a few stops.... Thanks for the advice anyway. Never hurts to hear another opinion.
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Jun 22, 2017 17:27
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gently caress it, you guys got me worried now. Better take down the driveshaft again and replace the yoke. While I'm at it, I'm in the market for a grease gun. Anything I should look out for? I don't suppose anyone has a list of where all the grease zerks are on a car?
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Jun 22, 2017 17:31
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kid sinister posted:
Depends on the vehicle. Typically (but not limited to) Outer tie rods, ball joints (lower and upper if equipped) Various steering linkages besides tie rods, U Joints etc... Some ball joints, and tie rods don't have them.
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Jun 22, 2017 17:54
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Captain Yossarian posted:Good idea thank you. Looking at Amazon, probably going to buy the whole quick strut. Any goon opinions on brands? I've used Monroe before, but I also see Moog- I bought Moog bearings but not sure about struts Anyone? 
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Jun 22, 2017 21:42
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Anyone have a body shop repaint/respray a hood and bumper due to road rash? I have a '13 with 64k miles and the previous owner didn't take care of that stuff. Is this an insane thing to do? It will probably end up running me ~$5-600 for just the hood. I'm finding it hard to justify to myself. The number and size of the rock chips across the hood I think make it a non-candidate for touch up paint/dr colorchip stuff. Here's a bad photo of one part of the hood:  It really bothers me every time I look at it in sunlight. When I bought the car it didn't have such apparent marks, also it was dusk.. then when I washed it properly they really came out. Would this bother other people or am I being obsessive? I feel like I don't see road rash this bad on other vehicles.
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Jun 22, 2017 22:18
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Michael Scott posted:Anyone have a body shop repaint/respray a hood and bumper due to road rash? I have a '13 with 64k miles and the previous owner didn't take care of that stuff. Is this an insane thing to do? All I could suggest is take it to a body shop and see what they think. They may have several tiers of fixes possible - from good enough to concours.
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Jun 22, 2017 22:21
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Deteriorata posted:All I could suggest is take it to a body shop and see what they think. They may have several tiers of fixes possible - from good enough to concours. I've gotten a couple opinions, and there are basically 2 options. 1: apply touch up paint 2. respray without any in between options. The 3rd suggestion I got was to wet sand and buff the hood, but they aren't sure that will have any effect on the chips in the photo and if I might as well respray, why pay for the professional buff? I have Googled obsessively without reaching a solution so I'm posting for opinions on if it would be fairly unheard of/a waste to order the respray Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jun 22, 2017 |
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Jun 22, 2017 22:23
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Once you're looking at a respray anyway, you might as well try. I'd touch in all the chips, wetsand it, then compound/polish.
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Jun 22, 2017 22:26
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^ well the buff would be $100 It seems crazy for a car of that age to have so much goddamn paint chips. It's more than virtually any car I've ever seen, am I wrong? The dealer is of course not helping with much, I got a $350 service credit for unrelated stuff which I'll use to repaint the bumper only. Thanks for your opinions y'all. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jun 22, 2017 |
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Jun 22, 2017 22:28
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Michael Scott posted:^ well the buff would be $100 Have you tried coloured body wax? It can work surprisingly well. (Ask my friend who bought a car at auction with spotless bodywork, only for the deep scratches all over it be be revealed when he gave it a good strong pressure wash)
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Jun 22, 2017 23:09
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Michael Scott posted:^ well the buff would be $100 two minutes driving on the freeway stuck behind a gravel truck spilling gravel onto the road will do that, it doesn't have to be even wear. Also be aware that a week after you have paid to have it fixed, you will get stuck behind a loving gravel truck spilling gravel all over the freeway and you will want to kill yourself
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Jun 23, 2017 00:00
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Leperflesh posted:two minutes driving on the freeway stuck behind a gravel truck spilling gravel onto the road will do that, it doesn't have to be even wear. This. You notice your paint imperfections and nobody else does. Unless you are joining the local Audi show-car club, gently caress it.
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Jun 23, 2017 00:29
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I just can't get the clutch to bleed on my 1988 F150 for the life of me. I put on a new concentric slave cylinder and hose. The only thing original that's left is the master cylinder. Anyway, if I read my Haynes book right, all I should need to do is fill up the reservoir, leave the cap off and loosen the bleeder screw, then gravity will do the rest. Nothing. So I got out my vacuum pump and tried sucking it through. Nothing. So I tried forcing it through with the clutch pedal. Nothing. Am I doing something wrong, or do I need to replace the master cylinder too?
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Jun 23, 2017 00:45
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That does sound a little odd. Does it take any fluid, or does the level in the reservoir just stay there? If you try pushing fluid back up through the bleed nipple, does that achieve anything?
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Jun 23, 2017 00:54
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