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You can get graflex 120 roll film pano backs for some 4x5 cameras. Like the toyo or sinar for instance. They can be 6x7, 6x9, 6x12 but im not sure if they go up to 6x17 (they could do)
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Jun 13, 2017 14:11
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Helen Highwater posted:I might be a money-haver again soon and I'm really interested in a decent M/LF panoramic camera to complement my 35mm Horizon. I know about the GH617 and it looks pretty good for my needs but then I found the Shen-Hao which looks as rad as hell. I like the idea of using 120 rollfilm rather than sheet film as it better suits my current capabilities wrt to filling cartridges, developing and scanning. The fact that it's a view camera with a LF camera lens would also be a nice way to get a head start on 'proper' LF in the future. The Shen-Hao will let you use more different lenses, with movements; but if you're not used to dealing with focusing and composing on ground glass, or to film backs that don't automatically stop, the Fuji 617 cameras will be easier to use. Sludge Tank posted:You can get graflex 120 roll film pano backs for some 4x5 cameras. Like the toyo or sinar for instance. They can be 6x7, 6x9, 6x12 but im not sure if they go up to 6x17 (they could do) 6x17 is wider than 4x5, but there's this back with built-in extension: http://www.bhcamera.us/dayi617back.php It can use only a limited range of focal lengths (I've heard 90 to 180mm), but if you already own a 4x5 camera it doesn't require buying a whole new camera.
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Jun 13, 2017 15:35
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Jun 13, 2017 22:41
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People in the Medium Format thread, why I never.  Facetiming with parents  Alex at home
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Jun 14, 2017 14:07
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Awkward Davies posted:People in the Medium Format thread, why I never. Say What?  709640010012 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/150429045@N03/
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Jun 15, 2017 03:52
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MrBlandAverage posted:The Shen-Hao will let you use more different lenses, with movements; but if you're not used to dealing with focusing and composing on ground glass, or to film backs that don't automatically stop, the Fuji 617 cameras will be easier to use. I am used to focusing on waist level finders, is there a big difference between using those and LF ground glass other than the size? I guess I'd need to use a cloth or a shade to see it more clearly. My Moskva shoots 6x6 and 6x9 so the film advance isn't geared to a particular frame size, it's all managed by eyeballing red windows on the back. I suspect the Shen Hao back has a similar arrangement, you'd just need to advance it three 6x6 or two 6x9 frames at a time.
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Jun 15, 2017 10:50
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11x14 inch clear glass ambrotype of a 130 year old mulberry tree and an 8x10 inch black glass ambrotype of the owners of the property on which it sits. 
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Jun 15, 2017 12:43
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Gross, where's the old cars, the neon, the every day cityscapes?!
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Jun 15, 2017 14:34
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Helen Highwater posted:I am used to focusing on waist level finders, is there a big difference between using those and LF ground glass other than the size? I guess I'd need to use a cloth or a shade to see it more clearly. My Moskva shoots 6x6 and 6x9 so the film advance isn't geared to a particular frame size, it's all managed by eyeballing red windows on the back. I suspect the Shen Hao back has a similar arrangement, you'd just need to advance it three 6x6 or two 6x9 frames at a time. With rare exceptions like the Graflex RB, LF cameras don't have mirrors, so the image on the ground glass will be upside down. The Fuji doesn't have ground glass or a TTL viewfinder, but the hotshoe viewfinder (don't buy a camera that doesn't have the one matched to the lens included) will be easier to use, if perhaps less precise, than a ground glass.
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Jun 16, 2017 01:19
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Jun 16, 2017 02:38
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Awkward Davies posted:Gross, where's the old cars, the neon, the every day cityscapes?! Don't you make me...  LOL depth of what? (I should have stopped down, gently caress me)
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Jun 16, 2017 04:53
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11x14 inch clear glass ambrotypes  
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Jun 16, 2017 17:05
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MrBlandAverage posted:With rare exceptions like the Graflex RB, LF cameras don't have mirrors, so the image on the ground glass will be upside down. The Fuji doesn't have ground glass or a TTL viewfinder, but the hotshoe viewfinder (don't buy a camera that doesn't have the one matched to the lens included) will be easier to use, if perhaps less precise, than a ground glass. Good to know. What about lenses? 6x17 has a diagonal of 180mm so obviously that's the minimum image circle I'd need but I expect that I'd want more for the movements. What are the usual allowances for that? Also I know nothing about LF lenses. What am I looking for and what would be a good match for that sort of use?
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Jun 16, 2017 20:06
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Helen Highwater posted:Good to know. What about lenses? 6x17 has a diagonal of 180mm so obviously that's the minimum image circle I'd need but I expect that I'd want more for the movements. What are the usual allowances for that? Also I know nothing about LF lenses. What am I looking for and what would be a good match for that sort of use? I'd go for at least 220mm image circle to have a decent amount of movements. Fortunately there are lots of options - on the short end the best choices are the Nikkor-SW 90mm f/8 and 120mm f/8; for medium lengths, just about any modern 180mm and 210mm will give you lots of movements. Longer lenses tend to have larger image circles, so most any 300mm lens, for example, will cover generously.
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Jun 17, 2017 06:03
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Crossposting from the film thread, since most of the good deals are medium/large: I just found a really good discount on (some) film, good through the 20th. eBay is running a 20%-off summer promotional event with some of their sellers. The PSUMMER20 coupon code is good for up to $50 off ($250 total purchase) from a small list of mostly uninteresting vendors. BUT, as it turns out, one of the sellers is Ritz Camera, which... you know, not the greatest store, but not (usually) a complete shitshow either. They sell (some) film through their eBay store. Shipping is free. It turns out that their Kodak pricing is a tick higher than most of the big vendors, but low enough that you usually 10-15% off with the coupon. Their pricing on Fuji is sometimes-OK, and their Ilford prices are unfortunately "beyond stupid", so no go there. Here are some of the better deals: pre:1 - All their 50-sheet boxes of 4x5 really good for Kodak pricing, which is to say "still a bit more expensive than Ilford, but at least not ridiculously so":
a - Tri-X 320: $110 - 20% = $88, price elsewhere $115
b - TMax 100: $100 - 20% = $80, price elsewhere $105+
c - TMax 400: $128 - 20% = $102.40, price elsewhere $128
2 - Portra pricing is very solid:
a - Portra 400 35mm 5-pack, $40 - 20% = $32, price elsewhere $38+ (Amazon price is $48, come on guys).
b - Portra 400 120 5-pack, $33 - 20% = $26.40, price elsewhere $30
3 - There's one good Fuji deal, but everything else is just saving 2-3%: Fuji Velvia 100 120 5-pack, $43 - 20% = $34.40, price elsewhere $41
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Jun 18, 2017 18:54
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Jun 19, 2017 04:54
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Jun 19, 2017 17:29
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Galway
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Jun 19, 2017 20:15
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Jun 21, 2017 08:08
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How not to meter/how not to pose 
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Jun 23, 2017 03:43
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nope that owns
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Jun 23, 2017 05:56
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'this is bad' is a good tag to explore. 'i did a bad job' is unique, though. 
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Jun 23, 2017 14:03
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SMERSH Mouth posted:'this is bad' is a good tag to explore. 'i did a bad job' is unique, though. Whoa you're right. Time to start owning this space for my #brand.
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Jun 23, 2017 14:51
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Awkward Davies posted:How not to meter/how not to pose how did that happen?
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Jun 23, 2017 14:53
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Yond Cassius posted:Crossposting from the film thread, since most of the good deals are medium/large: I missed this sale; but I figured that I can just buy some at the local camera shop. Lo and Behold, the owner decided to retire and close up shop this week after a clearance sale; all the remaining stock of film was gone by the time I got off work and was able to get down there. Okay, there was a junk bin with a few spools of ISO 40 Kodachrome left, in Super 8 format. So for any of you who have no close-by camera stores at which to buy film: where's the best place to buy film online in general?
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Jun 25, 2017 05:58
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I always use freestylephoto dot biz. They're appreciably cheaper than either of my local stores. Sometimes there are deals on eBay, but they can also be pretty sketchy. If there's a consistent source with better prices than freestyle, I haven't heard of it.
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Jun 26, 2017 00:12
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SMERSH Mouth posted:I always use freestylephoto dot biz. They're appreciably cheaper than either of my local stores. Sometimes there are deals on eBay, but they can also be pretty sketchy. B&H
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Jun 26, 2017 03:53
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Jun 26, 2017 05:59
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Meaty Ore posted:So for any of you who have no close-by camera stores at which to buy film: where's the best place to buy film online in general? The big four are B&H, Adorama, Freestyle, and Amazon. The first three are usually within a couple dollars of each other, once you factor shipping in. Amazon is good with their supply chain, but really inconsistent on pricing - I've seen them be 15% up and 15% down from average inside the same week. I think Freestyle is the most committed to film as a full process and not just another SKU; at the very least they've had the best availability for chemistry (especially the more esoteric stuff), and the best willingness to ship it.
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Jun 26, 2017 06:13
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Jun 26, 2017 08:49
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McMadCow posted:These are all really grey. Are they scans or prints? Prints from the press, selon goût... this guy was a real jerk.
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Jun 29, 2017 08:44
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I found an old Rolleiflex 2.8 E in my parents house that I think belonged to my granddad. It seems to be in pretty good condition although I'm not sure how accurate the shutter speed is. Its such a nice thing to hold and look at. At first I was thinking of only having it on display but I already ordered some film and want to try shooting with it. After looking online for instructions and videos it seems to be pretty simple thing to use. Only thing I haven't figured out is determining which shutter speed to use and what does the f: and depth of field mean. Is there some good guides I should look at? So far my only experience with photography is taking dope insta pictures with my phone.
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Jun 29, 2017 19:03
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Mursupitsku posted:Only thing I haven't figured out is determining which shutter speed to use and what does the f: and depth of field mean. Is there some good guides I should look at? This is actually the MOST important concept in photography! Basically the smaller the f number (also called the f-stop), the larger the opening to your lens will be, and consequentially the more light you'll let in. The smaller your f-stop, the less depth of field you'll have. People will also call this setting "Aperture". Shutter speed operates similarly. The longer the shutter speed, the more light you'll let in (and more motion, as well). There's also ISO. With regards to film, it just means how sensitive your film is to light. The more sensitive, the better it will be suited for low-light situations — but often at the cost of high contrast. There are plenty of free online resources (just Google "Exposure Triangle" to get started). But I highly recommend going to your local library and checking out Bryan Peterson's "Understanding Exposure". In your case, it won't really matter which edition, since your Rollei is likely completely manual (i.e., you manually pick both the shutter speed and aperture). This book is an extremely well-laid out book to understanding the most fundamental part of photography! I also recommend picking up a cheapo light meter after you finish reading it. Film is expensive, and until you start getting a good handle on everything it'll be worth the bucks just so you don't end up taking a dope picture but completely blew the exposure.
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Jun 29, 2017 20:24
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This is a pretty cool site that teaches you the basics of the exposure triangle (aperture, shutterspeed and ISO) in an interactive and easily understood way. Play around with it. As for lightmeters, I never bother and they'll just confuse you more to start with. If you stick to shooting outside in daylight, it's pretty easy to get close to the right exposure with the 'sunny 16' rule, and film is pretty forgiving if you overexpose it a bit. The sunny 16 rule is simply that on a sunny day, if your aperture is f/16 then your shutter speed should be the nearest number to your film ISO. So, if you have 100 ISO film loaded, you'd use 1/125 speed to get a good exposure. If you go down one stop of aperture then you can double the speed (so f/11 will let you shoot at 1/250, f/8 will let you shoot at 1/500 and so on). If it's a bit cloudy, then give yourself an extra stop (so instead of f/16, be at f/11). If it's very overcast, give yourself two stops (f/8) and if it's getting on for twilight then 3 stops (f/5.6). Remember that every time you change by one stop on your aperture you can either halve your shutter speed (if you go to a bigger aperture) or double it (if you go to a smaller one). f/8 at 1/500 is the same amount of exposure as f/5.6 at 1/1000 or f/11 at 1/500. If in doubt err on the side of letting more light in so go for a slower speed or a larger aperture if you aren't sure.
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Jun 29, 2017 21:06
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   it's warm out at night and The Boys have me night shootin' the 4x5 again. I recently got a Nikon 210mm and i'm lovin it, it's a good focal length.
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Jun 29, 2017 21:29
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That second one especially looks like an Edward Hopper painting. Really dig those pictures.
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Jun 29, 2017 21:46
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Helen Highwater posted:That second one especially looks like an Edward Hopper painting. Really dig those pictures. Thank you, Helen Highwater 
a cyberpunk goose fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jun 29, 2017 |
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Jun 29, 2017 22:52
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If you have a decent smart phone use it as a light meter. There's quite a few light meter apps for both android and iOS and they work just fine as reflective meters if there's at least some light in the scene. They all the work the same way, set the ISO of your film, point phone camera at subject and press the measure button. It will show you a list of shutter speed and aperture parings you can use to take the shot. It will get tripped up with a scene that's mostly all really light or really dark stuff but you probably won't have to worry about it. I shot a bunch of crappy color negative using my ancient (in phone years) Nexus 4 as a reflective meter in daytime and early evening conditions and it did a good job. Good enough that I might just use it from now on when there's still a little sunlight around instead of dragging around my brick of a Luna Pro. A point and shoot digital camera that shows you the shot settings would also be fine. If you find you really like shooting film, then you can go nuts with the fancy gear...
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Jun 30, 2017 00:05
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Jul 2, 2017 06:52
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Jul 2, 2017 09:35
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