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Hypnolobster posted:The DeWalt jobsite saw is surprisingly good for the price and size. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE74...alt+jobsite+saw This? Also, so does this mean the max depth /length I can cut is 32"? Am I going to come up against lots of regular craft/furniture projects that see me needing to cut more than 32"?
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Jun 26, 2017 19:31
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This thread is super against contractor saws, but for what it's worth, as a weekend warrior, my dewalt (older model than that one, but pretty similar) works beautifully for everything I've used it for, with the exception of the occasional thing I probably shouldn't have used *any* table saw for.
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Jun 26, 2017 19:41
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I bought this thing on sale for like $150 and have no regrets. The table is small with questionable levelness and the miter gauge it came with is crap, but for that price you could do much, much worse.
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Jun 26, 2017 19:47
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Yeah, for now, I definitely would classify myself as budget-conscious and weekend warrior. If I could find something in-or-around 500 or less, I would be happy. So far that DeWalt seems good. What are the general dislikes about a contractor saw that people have? Maybe I can determine if the cons apply to me. I certainly don't have a HUGE amount of garage space/wallspace nor do I have a thousand dollars or more to play with. (Which is why I landed on a Job Site saw.)
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Jun 26, 2017 19:55
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Feenix posted:https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE74...alt+jobsite+saw Yep, that. And that just means the maximum rip cut width is 32 (distance between the fence and the blade).
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Jun 26, 2017 20:39
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Hypnolobster posted:Yep, that. So anything longer than 32 inches? (let's say I had a piece of wood (I don't know how likely this is) that needed to be split into 2, and it was... 50 inches long. So I needed 2 narrower pieces of 50-inch long wood. Could this not do it? Or would I have to, like, just flip it and line it up with my first cut?
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Jun 26, 2017 21:10
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Feenix posted:So anything longer than 32 inches? (let's say I had a piece of wood (I don't know how likely this is) that needed to be split into 2, and it was... 50 inches long. So I needed 2 narrower pieces of 50-inch long wood. Think plywood instead of wood, because realistically you're not going to have a single board that's that wide. I wouldn't want to try to do cuts that wide on a table saw anyway without a sled or something, though, simply because of the difficulty of maneuvering large pieces on a small table. Much easier/safer to move the blade through the wood at that point, so use a circular saw / track saw for that kind of thing instead.
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Jun 26, 2017 21:16
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Feenix posted:So anything longer than 32 inches? (let's say I had a piece of wood (I don't know how likely this is) that needed to be split into 2, and it was... 50 inches long. So I needed 2 narrower pieces of 50-inch long wood. You can rip any length you want, as long as you can support and push it safely. You definitely don't want things to sag on either end hanging over the edge of the table. 32 inches is the maximum width on the right-hand side of the blade. If you're cutting plate material (plywood, MDF) it becomes relevant, otherwise not really. The final parameter is the maximum depth of cut, i.e. how far the blade can protrude from the table. As far as I can tell that's around 3-4 inches, so you can rip upwards 6 inches thick material at least. (Make the first cut halfway through the thickness, flip it lengthwise, rip the opposite side, meeting the first cut.) E: If you haven't already, do watch a lot of videos of others working with table saws. Just to get an idea of various cutting techniques, how to set up and maneuver for different results. Definitely also look up various table saw sled designs. nielsm fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 21:18
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Feenix posted:Yeah, for now, I definitely would classify myself as budget-conscious and weekend warrior. If I could find something in-or-around 500 or less, I would be happy. So far that DeWalt seems good. https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-13-Amp-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Table-Saw/50081568 This is a bit above that, but not too much especially if you have a source for a discount (I got 10% military). I have never regretted this choice.
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Jun 26, 2017 21:27
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Thanks everyone! I will read up and watch videos. I don't plan on needing to rip a lot of plywood, but I did have some pegboard slabs (for my garage update) that were sitting here waiting for me to custom cut the last pieces. The measurements are: 23.75 in. x 47.75 in wherein I need to take the 23.75 in. down a bit. That should be doable, right? I would need to cut along the length of 47.75 in.
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Jun 26, 2017 21:45
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Your budget is well into Good Track Saw territory. I think I've heard good things about the Makita and Festool.
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Jun 26, 2017 21:52
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Feenix posted:Thanks everyone! I will read up and watch videos. Dude, if you have to ask a question like that, maybe you should take a Vo-tech course first, no troll.
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Jun 26, 2017 21:55
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dude, if you have to ask a question like that, maybe you should take a Vo-tech course first, no troll. Maybe I should. And maybe I will. Got 2 young kids and my wife works longer hours than I do. I don't get a lot of free time so I hadn't really considered a course. I'm finding myself to be pretty handy. I've just never really handled a table saw. I'm boss with my miter saw and I've been doing well. I just probably need to watch some more videos on the limitations of table saws. The Track Saw looks interesting, and very versatile, by the way, thank you, Phone! I do wonder what I would use as space-saving saw horses or what have you. I'm guessing you need at least 4 supports so that when you cut the wood doesn't buckle in, yeah?
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Jun 26, 2017 22:03
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I'm not sure if this is the stackable variant or not, but https://blog.lostartpress.com/2008/02/10/this-year%E2%80%99s-model-the-2008-sawbench/ is a really good and strong design. With a tracksaw you can do more than if you just had a bandsaw (rip only, can't deal with sheet goods, etc) and it's incredibly space efficient, too.
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Jun 26, 2017 23:39
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Spent tonight sharpening some antique store finds. A whatever Stanley block plane from probably the 40s-60s ($7). And my first molding planes. A skewed rabbet plane on the left ($22), which I managed to get a really, really nice edge on; a #6 hollow & round pair ($10 ea.); and a #8? hollow ($13). Whoever last ground the #6s did a loving number on them, they are way lopsided. I sharpened them the best I could with some sandpaper, but they'll need a regrind sooner than later. Though you can tell the irons were hand-wrought, which is neat. I need new projects. Going to go to the lumber yard this week to get some stock for legs for the staked saw benches, and I'll see if they have some decent scrap to make a sticking board to practice with these things. 
ColdPie fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Jun 27, 2017 |
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Jun 27, 2017 02:01
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dude, if you have to ask a question like that, maybe you should take a Vo-tech course first, no troll. Thank God I didn't have to be the first person to say it. One reason this thread is down on contractor table saws is that, in this thread at least, they end up getting purchased by people with little experience. So you've got a small saw with a middling fence at best and little skill. That's a recipe for hurting yourself. Take Phone's advice and get a track saw if you are doing mostly sheet goods, or a bandsaw if you are doing mostly hardwoods.
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Jun 27, 2017 02:13
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Feenix posted:Maybe I should. And maybe I will. Got 2 young kids and my wife works longer hours than I do. I don't get a lot of free time so I hadn't really considered a course. I'm finding myself to be pretty handy. I've just never really handled a table saw. I'm boss with my miter saw and I've been doing well. I just probably need to watch some more videos on the limitations of table saws. Seconding the track saw for breaking down sheet stock. The best way to do it cheap and ghetto with a track saw is buy some 1", 1.5", 2" (whatever you can find) rigid foam insulation (it will come in blue or pink or purple 2'x8' or 4'x8' panels). Put a big one or two small ones on the garage floor, set your track saw depth stop to the thickness of what you're cutting plus 1/4 or 1/2 inch or whatever, and do it on top of your insulation. The track saw plunges down to the depth you've set the stop at. Crank that stop tight or you will saw your concrete floor as well. This is a piece of insulation I've used, all the vertical lines are the kerfs from various cuts made on top of it.  You can also use sawhorses and 3/4" plywood to make a table and put the insulation up there to cut on top of. The downside of doing it on the floor is that you can't clamp the track down easily, but the bottom of the track has some non slip stuff so it's workable. If you are up on a table of some sort then the track clamps slide into grooves in the bottom of the track, allowing you to clamp. Pretty good system. You wouldn't cut this piece of wood like this but this illustrates the track's top and bottom views when clamped to something. I have one longer than 8' so can do the long dimension of sheet goods. Top, where the track saw shoe glides on those black plastic strips:  Flipped over, you can see how the clamps slide in a channel and the grippy foam rubber strips  I have the corded dewalt track saw with no complaints, which I bought to rip a shitload of beveled 4" wide, 8' long cleats from plywood sheets. I think they have since come out with a cordless one if you're into that. e: also note that you can get similar results by clamping a straightedge (buy an aluminum one or make a plywood one) and using a circular saw. Way cheaper, and all you give up is dust collection (tracksaw does ok hooked up to a shop vac), anti-splinter strips (tracksaw cuts along a rubber strip that helps make cleaner cuts), and the ease of the clamping system I guess. Also ripping a sheet, the rip width is gonna be between fence and blade, so you're cutting strips up to 32.5" wide. As for length, I mean it's infinite you can just keep feeding into the blade on a table saw. Pretty soon though the thing gets unwieldy to keep flat on the table AND pressed against the fence. Like the video for that saw shows a dude pushing a sheet of plywood onto the saw but picture holding a 4x8 sheet flat on a 2'x2' surface and against the fence to start the cut and finish the cut. This is what people are referring to as the smallness of the saw, the table real estate, not necessarily the motor or blade. This is why cabinet saws are often set up with (somewhat mobile and temporary or immobile and permanent) outfeed tables (maybe image search some of these terms and see the dude ripping stuff and picture the operation and this will answer some of your questions). Also why ripping a shitload of 8' long 4" wide strips led me to a track saw. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jun 27, 2017 |
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Jun 27, 2017 02:27
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Stultus Maximus posted:https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-13-Amp-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Table-Saw/50081568 Seconding this saw, its been very good for me and the integrated mobile base is essential for my small shop (10' x 12')
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Jun 27, 2017 03:12
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This is my track, you can tell it's a precision instrument that cost me a lot. https://imgur.com/QlVs5QV Does the job. If you make something like this, I strongly suggest waxing the surface.
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Jun 27, 2017 03:13
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Leperflesh posted:My experience with a garbage-tier garage sale table saw was that the fence was impossible to keep aligned with the blade and that rendered the entire saw both useless and dangerous. That's my story thanks. Cross cut sled.
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Jun 27, 2017 03:15
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Thanks everyone! I do appreciate all the info and advice. I don't plan on sheet ripping much at all. I'm sure one day it'll come up. I was just trying to understand the limitations of a job site saw vs. table saw vs. other options. I'll do a lot more research before my birthday for sure. 
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Jun 27, 2017 04:53
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Anyone got any recommendations for sled designs, or fence designs I could make?
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Jun 27, 2017 05:45
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I was helping my parents move yesterday and my stepdad pulled out two heavy rear end boxes. When I opened them, I found them to be full of walnut hardwood parquet flooring, but not glued up - just loosely taped together on one side. So essentially I have something like 20-30 pounds of identical small pieces of presumably walnut. Picture follows.  Any good ideas of what to do with this?
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Jun 27, 2017 05:46
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Magres posted:Anyone got any recommendations for sled designs, or fence designs I could make? Havent made it, but this looks ok https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0IHnxhSZsg&t=35s
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Jun 27, 2017 05:56
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Some of the first things I did with my table saw was rip 4 meter lengths of wet construction lumber, with a tilted blade, on a right tilt saw. As I was filling up a whole side wall with french cleats. But I had support on both sides, a piece of plywood clamped to the fence to make it a short fence and a riving knife. Don't do a lot of woodworking right now, mostly concrete, metal, gardening stuff, this will come in handy though for woodworking once its done: 
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Jun 27, 2017 06:18
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 I invented the highly inaccurate arc marking tool. It's a rip off cut with a screw to pivot on and a hole punch clamped to the side to mark the wood. So far it's working pretty well to mark the rounded piece of the shelf.
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Jun 27, 2017 13:57
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Falcon2001 posted:I was helping my parents move yesterday and my stepdad pulled out two heavy rear end boxes. When I opened them, I found them to be full of walnut hardwood parquet flooring, but not glued up - just loosely taped together on one side. You could use it to make some actual butcher-block (i.e. end-grain) cutting boards. Other than that, I got nuthin'. 
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Jun 27, 2017 15:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You could use it to make some actual butcher-block (i.e. end-grain) cutting boards. Other than that, I got nuthin'. The end grain is only like 3/8" wide because the pieces..... That would be brutal. It's sheeted for flooring, he ought to use it for some sort of flat surface (a table mayble) imo
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Jun 27, 2017 15:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:The end grain is only like 3/8" wide because the pieces..... That would be brutal. It's sheeted for flooring, he ought to use it for some sort of flat surface (a table mayble) imo Make a cabinet, use the parkay over sheeting as kind of an inlaid panel? Or a chest?
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Jun 27, 2017 15:16
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Here's a friendly reminder to NOT be a dumbass like myself. I was not feeling well last night and still wanted to work on a project that required cutting some foam. This was my first cut. I stood on the WRONG side of the saw and fed this uneven piece of foam through. It bound and kicked back. My fingers were a safe 6-8" away, but holy gently caress I'm a moron. 
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Jun 27, 2017 18:47
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 It assembles! Just need to round off some of the edges, and then give it some finish. Wood is sapele for the sides, and beech (patterned by a fungus) for the shelves.
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Jun 27, 2017 22:35
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the spyder posted:Here's a friendly reminder to NOT be a dumbass like myself. I was not feeling well last night and still wanted to work on a project that required cutting some foam. This was my first cut. I stood on the WRONG side of the saw and fed this uneven piece of foam through. It bound and kicked back. My fingers were a safe 6-8" away, but holy gently caress I'm a moron. You cut that the wrong way, should have been cutting with the fence closer to the blade and also where the gently caress is your riving knife (that's why it went askew), and your blade guard. Also use finger board(s) to stop kickback.
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Jun 28, 2017 04:05
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Well I'm finally getting around to hanging the barn door I made, and the screws that came with the rail hardware were poo poo and I stripped one trying to screw it in. So, off to the hardware store tomorrow to buy some more. The door is made with maple veneer plywood and edge banding. The furring strip or whatever you call it is red oak. I wish the local big box stores sold maple or white oak, but this is all I've ever found in Texas. Fortunately the colors aren't too far off. I had considered painting it white like the door trim or the same color as the wall. I thought that a white strip that close to the ceiling would make the ceiling feel even lower, and I'm not a huge fan of the color of the wall and have considered repainting it. Anyway, I went with two coats of dewaxed shellac, and then two coats of water based poly. Screw/hardware chat. The oak is bolted into the studs, but the rail hardware will just be going into the oak. Is there any formula for sizing wood screws? If the screw is longer than the thickness of the wood, is that detrimental to its strength/holding power? Lastly, how do you size your pilot holes in a hardwood? 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 05:34
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There are charts that give you the proper pilot hole sizing for given screw sizes. I just hold the bits and the screw up against the light and find the bit the same size, or slightly smaller, than the shank of the screw. For screws I use a lot, I made my own table in the front cover if my bit set. E: Speaking of screws, what are some favorite organization systems? Little drawers in a cabinet? Loose trays with dividers? ColdPie fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 12:59
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MetaJew posted:Well I'm finally getting around to hanging the barn door I made, and the screws that came with the rail hardware were poo poo and I stripped one trying to screw it in. So, off to the hardware store tomorrow to buy some more. What would be detrimental would be if the screws are so long, the shank is not threaded in the area that finally rests in your oak support board. Anything longer than the thickness of the rail hardware and the 3/4" oak is, like they say, unnecessary- unless you hit a stud behind the support, which you're really not aiming to do. Sizing pilot hole bits, you can take the screw you're using, and eyeball a bit side by side. Screw shank, minus the threads is pretty ideal bit size. Maybe get a couple size bits if you don't trust your eyeballometer, and do some scrap test runs. Good luck, that looks like you put a lot of effort into it. I did some barn-door stuff for my folks this time last summer with Chinese kit hardware from Amazon- it's all heavy duty with pre-drilled (metric) rails, so they don't give 2 shits about 16" O.C. I ran 3 kits end to end for 2 doorways. I was very fortunate that the doors I was hanging were louvered and lightweight- I didn't want to do what you've done with that extra support rail above the door header.
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Jun 28, 2017 15:41
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I feel like an idiot that I can't figure this out on my own, but what's the best way to make a 60* bevel cut using a table saw or circular saw? I'm trying to make a shelf similar to this with a board of 1 x 3 pine. Should I just use my miter gauge and do a 60* miter cut with the board on its short end? Is there a jig that makes this easier?
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Jun 28, 2017 19:01
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Mikey Purp posted:I feel like an idiot that I can't figure this out on my own, but what's the best way to make a 60* bevel cut using a table saw or circular saw? I'm trying to make a shelf similar to this with a board of 1 x 3 pine. Should I just use my miter gauge and do a 60* miter cut with the board on its short end? Is there a jig that makes this easier? e: reread your post and now understand, to do this the traditional way you need 60 degrees of bevel but probably only have 45 degrees of bevel adjustment on the saw... I'd say clamp a bunch of your 1x3s to the face of a wide enough board to be able to push the whole thing against the fence and send it through at 30 degree bevel setting while standing the whole thing on end, idk. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Jun 28, 2017 |
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Jun 28, 2017 19:11
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Mikey Purp posted:I feel like an idiot that I can't figure this out on my own, but what's the best way to make a 60* bevel cut using a table saw or circular saw? I'm trying to make a shelf similar to this with a board of 1 x 3 pine. Should I just use my miter gauge and do a 60* miter cut with the board on its short end? Is there a jig that makes this easier? Table saw. You need a sled with a relatively tall vertical (90 deg) attachment, which you can then clamp the board to. Set the blade to 30 deg. That will give you a cut 60 deg relative to the main surface of the board.
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Jun 28, 2017 19:15
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Mikey Purp posted:I feel like an idiot that I can't figure this out on my own, but what's the best way to make a 60* bevel cut using a table saw or circular saw? I'm trying to make a shelf similar to this with a board of 1 x 3 pine. Should I just use my miter gauge and do a 60* miter cut with the board on its short end? Is there a jig that makes this easier? You have to run it through butt to the table with the blade at 30 degrees. Kinda scary stuff, tbf. 3" especially is too short a cut, imo, so do a full 1x12 or 1x9", then rip that to width later, and it's still scary poo poo. Also, a 0-clearance insert would help on the table saw, even if you have to make one specially for this project. edit nielsm posted:Table saw. You need a sled with a relatively tall vertical (90 deg) attachment, which you can then clamp the board to. Set the blade to 30 deg. That will give you a cut 60 deg relative to the main surface of the board. This
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Jun 28, 2017 19:17
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Mr. Mambold posted:Also, a 0-clearance insert would help on the table saw, even if you have to make one specially for this project. I would recommend making one of these to anyone who doesn't have one already. They're just so much better for so many things.
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Jun 28, 2017 19:22
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