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Kinda going back and forth on a used car for the wife. Right now going back and forth between a Sonic and a Fit. How are modern turbos, reliability wise? Looking at 2013-2015 model years.
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Jun 26, 2017 02:10
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I am certain the fit is more reliable, by a large margin. Run, don't walk from the sonic. All the major publications would tell you the same. If you would consider it the prius C is around the same size and very reliable.
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Jun 26, 2017 02:23
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rdb posted:I am certain the fit is more reliable, by a large margin. Run, don't walk from the sonic. All the major publications would tell you the same. If you would consider it the prius C is around the same size and very reliable. The price of extended warranties says differently. Five years of maintenance and repairs for a 2013 Fit: $7,830 or $130.50 per month. Five years of maintenance and repairs for a 2013 Sonic: $7,026 or 117.10 per month. IMO, $800 over five years isn't that much of a difference. Get whichever one you like better. Individual models can and will vary significantly from the average. No guarantees, YMMV, etc.
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Jun 26, 2017 02:34
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Oh well in that case buy a turbo GM econobox instead of a Honda.
PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 02:40
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I am liking this thread for the bits and pieces I'm learning from reading other people's stuff. Can anyone recommend me a good car/motorbike repair podcast that's not Car Talk (I tried it, hosts were just really grating to me for some reason), aimed at someone with fairly basic knowledge? Captain Yossarian posted:Stupid question: should I get new tires first, or new struts first? According to the person I got the car from, struts have never been done (200k miles, so they are definitely shot). Tires I should probably get done before winter.. What should be my priority here? I was/am in the same situation. I suppose it depends on how bad each is. I went with struts first because they were very noticeably contributing to poor ride quality, though getting tyres done soon is a priority. Did my rear struts yesterday and the difference is massive, car sticks to the road much better (ie normally) on turns and bumps, and all the creaking and moaning from the back is now gone. It took an embarassing amount of the afternoon to do the first one because I kept making mistakes and having to go back and decompress/recompress the spring, then I had to go to the store and buy some vice grips, etc... second one took more like 45 minutes, most of which was being really careful with the spring compressors. The all-in-one packages that include springs make things a lot safer and easier, although in my case it would have doubled the price of the job, and I could get the spring compressors for free from work. The tyres are also pretty worn out, so I'm going to try and get out to the secondhand tyre place and get those replaced too. After that the car really wants for nothing significant AFAIK (aside from maybe doing that paint job over the break), I'm looking forward to taking it out on some longer trips around the island. Two quick questions: 1) Noticing a higher idle in the mornings, is this the automatic choke compensating for the colder conditions (it's winter down here and just starting to get cold)? It has been a while since I owned a car, used to doing it myself on motorbikes. 2) Some idiot thieves tried to break into it a few weeks ago. As a result, the lock on the hatch is completely ruined (I have disconnected it from the latch), and the driver's side one is a little sticky and looks nasty. Passenger door lock is untouched. Since I never use the lock on the passenger's side, I wondered if I could swap it over to the driver's side (and relocate the driver's one to the hatch if possible, though that seems like a stretch). How likely is it that they are interchangable? Toyota is for some reason really secretive about the shop manual for the Starlet so I'm not sure about parts numbers, although FWIW it shares many of the parts with the Tercel/Corolla. On eBay I have found listings for both "LH + RH front door barrel locks" that appear to be different, as well as a generic "front door barrel lock" that doesn't specify whether it is R or L. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 02:55
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Deteriorata posted:The price of extended warranties says differently. I base my opinion on duog demuro who says the fit gets 4 out of 5 buttons ans the sonic gets only gets 3.5 on consumer reports. Why would you pay that much for an extended warranty? Get one through the dealer for way less than that. Way less. I think I paid $1200 for one through toyota that goes until 2018 or 125k on my 2012 tundra. Either way I think $7000 in maintenance and repairs in 5 years on either of those is a bit excessive. Except maybe if you have to replace the engine on the sonic because the turbo let loose sending shards of compressor wheel into the intake while simultaneously draining the engine of its oil. Ethics_Gradient posted:I am liking this thread for the bits and pieces I'm learning from reading other people's stuff. Can anyone recommend me a good car/motorbike repair podcast that's not Car Talk (I tried it, hosts were just really grating to me for some reason), aimed at someone with fairly basic knowledge Pine hollow auto diagnostics, ericthecarguy, southmainauto, triangle diagnostics on youtube if your willing to do something other than a podcast. Southmainauto is probably the most watchable and takes on the real difficult, rustiest cases.
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Jun 26, 2017 03:16
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Kinda going back and forth on a used car for the wife. Right now going back and forth between a Sonic and a Fit. How are modern turbos, reliability wise? Looking at 2013-2015 model years. Pretty much every car from 2013 onwards is going to have really good reliability unless it's a wacky brand like Land Rover or Fiat. There will be odd failed QA ugly ducklings but beyond those most cars will serve you fine with few issues, as long as they were maintained. Get whatever car you like best. You will pay a premium for the Fit's perceived better reliability.
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Jun 26, 2017 03:20
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rdb posted:I base my opinion on duog demuro who says the fit gets 4 out of 5 buttons ans the sonic gets only gets 3.5 on consumer reports. Maintenance includes tires, brakes, oil changes, timing belt replacement, and anything else that is scheduled over the life of the car. It adds up. It also costs, just like unscheduled repairs. The costs come from Edmunds' TCO estimator. The guys who write extended warranties need to be pretty good at estimating just how much it's going to cost to fix the cars if they're going to stay in business. It's not perfect, but it's the closest thing to an objective comparison I've come across. Consumer Reports is not a very reliable source. They're heavily biased against American cars (particularly Chrysler) and heavily biased in favor of Japanese cars (particularly Toyota and Honda). Their editorial biases form a feedback loop that then influences how their members rate their own cars. It's not as objective as they would like you to think. That's not to say they're worthless, but their rating system tends to overemphasize small differences. Use them as a reference point, not gospel.
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Jun 26, 2017 03:45
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Doug writes for autotrader. The circles he quoted were from JD power. Not CR like i thought. https://www.autotrader.com/car-reviews/2015-honda-fit-vs-2015-chevrolet-sonic-which-is-better-233908 Theres no bias on my part, chevy is my first stop, but every now and again they put their name on something thats not the greatest. In this case its a Daewoo aveo rebadged into a sonic so they could boost their cafe ratings in the USA. They had to rebadge it because the aveo was a horrid, unreliable lump with a reputation that would have preceded it. And yes, I realize what $7000 represents. But lets say joe driver drives an average of 12k per year, or 60000 total over 5. Thats one new set of eco tires at maybe $750 and a dozen oil changes at jiffy lube @ $60 a pop. Maybe a couple air filters and some brake pads here and there. Neither car utilizes a timing belt. Most cars these days have a 100k interval on spark plugs, no other tune up items, and "lifetime" transmission fluids. That leaves $5000+ for unexpected repairs. In reality, extended warranty companies are out to make pure profit off poorly educated consumers. Thats where your $7k goes. Because warranties don't cover normal wear items.
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Jun 26, 2017 04:08
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deteriorata posted:They're heavily biased against American cars (particularly Chrysler) and heavily biased in favor of Japanese cars (particularly Toyota and Honda). I can't imagine how anyone might develop such biases.
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Jun 26, 2017 04:17
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rdb posted:Doug writes for autotrader. The circles he quoted were from JD power. Not CR like i thought. You're missing the point. They aren't necessarily realistic numbers, but they're calculated the same way for every car. Thus they are a fair comparison (or as fair as is possible). Tires, for example, aren't based on the cheapest available, they're based on the rated lifetime of the OEM set and are assumed to be replaced with the same. The real expenditures for any car will probably be less because real owners seek out deals. That makes the differences between cars even smaller, by the way. If each car in reality costs half as much to maintain and repair, the difference is only half as much. By the way, the maintenance/repair for the Sonic and Fit are $4854/$2172 and $5802/$1988, respectively. Thus the Sonic is expected to have a bit higher repair costs, but Honda's scheduled maintenance is more.
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Jun 26, 2017 04:19
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tactlessbastard posted:I can't imagine how anyone might develop such biases. With respect to Chrysler, it mostly dates from the loan guarantees that Lee Iaccoca sought from the government circa 1980. CR went berserk over it and has been firmly anti-Chrysler ever since. They went so far as to rate the hugely popular and highly acclaimed Plymouth Horizon/Dodge Omni pair as "unacceptable" based on a cocked-up high-speed lane changing test that no one else could duplicate.
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Jun 26, 2017 04:22
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About a year ago I had a puncture in a tire plugged (paid through the nose too, like 70% of the price of a new tire because it was kind of an emergency, thanks to the rubbish Volvo space saver spare wheel). The plug is now failing and I'm losing pressure. I want to have a go at fixing this myself this time. All I can find locally and fast enough is kits with the reamer, needle and plugs, as well as bike tire repair stuff. Looking at youtubes of tire patching from the inside, it seems like a large bike patch is the same thing as a car patch. Since I can't readily seem to get my hands on those mushroom plug/patches in a timely manner, my plan is: -mark the tire's position on the wheel so I hopefully won't need to re-balance -remove tire -drill out and replace the old plug -buff, clean and patch the inside using bike patch and vulcanizing solution -reassemble and drive happily for two more summers or however long this current set of tires lasts. Is this a dumb idea?
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Jun 26, 2017 06:55
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PaintVagrant posted:Oh well in that case buy a turbo GM econobox instead of a Honda. I mean, even you put it that way it sounds obvious. But speaking of major publications, they all actually seemed to like the Sonic, I guess that's the only reason I'm asking. I'm actually finding them around the same price range also. Almost no Prius though (trying to keep it under 10k), otherwise they would be on the shortlist.
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Jun 26, 2017 10:48
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Invalido posted:About a year ago I had a puncture in a tire plugged (paid through the nose too, like 70% of the price of a new tire because it was kind of an emergency, thanks to the rubbish Volvo space saver spare wheel). The plug is now failing and I'm losing pressure. I want to have a go at fixing this myself this time. All I can find locally and fast enough is kits with the reamer, needle and plugs, as well as bike tire repair stuff. Looking at youtubes of tire patching from the inside, it seems like a large bike patch is the same thing as a car patch. Since I can't readily seem to get my hands on those mushroom plug/patches in a timely manner, my plan is: As long as you have a surefire way to break and remove the bead, which to be honest, is the biggest pain in the rear end. I would rather pay walmart $17 or whatever they charge to remove it and patch from the inside. If you want quick and easy rip the old rope out with pliers and stick a new one in, or just shove a new one next to it. Messing with beads at home sucks.
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Jun 26, 2017 12:34
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rdb posted:As long as you have a surefire way to break and remove the bead, which to be honest, is the biggest pain in the rear end. I would rather pay walmart $17 or whatever they charge to remove it and patch from the inside. I'd rather do it myself than go to a mechanic who'll just half-rear end it again. The only dude I know who might do it for anything approaching $17 has his shop a ways away, and I want a patch behind the plug so this doesn't reoccur. I cobbled together a bead breaking tool a few years ago, so that's not a problem:  
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Jun 26, 2017 12:59
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The 3.0 M103 engine in my w124 is acting up. It's idling a little rough and bogs down and has barely any power for the first 80% of the throttle, but when I floor it it gets all it's power back and hauls rear end. I had to drive to work and back today alternately flooring it and coasting, which was less than ideal.. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?
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Jun 26, 2017 14:17
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Just learned my 2009 Honda CR-V's AC compressor is dead and my dealer quoted $1200 to repair it. We were considering a new car anyway. If I don't repair the AC, I'm going to guess it will impact the trade-in value of the car. I'm going to call other mechanics and see if I can get a better price, but thoughts? Should I repair it or just trade it in at this point?
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Jun 26, 2017 15:08
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Invalido posted:About a year ago I had a puncture in a tire plugged (paid through the nose too, like 70% of the price of a new tire because it was kind of an emergency, thanks to the rubbish Volvo space saver spare wheel). The plug is now failing and I'm losing pressure. I want to have a go at fixing this myself this time. All I can find locally and fast enough is kits with the reamer, needle and plugs, as well as bike tire repair stuff. Looking at youtubes of tire patching from the inside, it seems like a large bike patch is the same thing as a car patch. Since I can't readily seem to get my hands on those mushroom plug/patches in a timely manner, my plan is: It cost me $10 to have a tire properly plugged the last time I did it... Also instead of a large bike patch you can cut a patch out of an actual bike tube.
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Jun 26, 2017 15:33
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DTaeKim posted:Just learned my 2009 Honda CR-V's AC compressor is dead and my dealer quoted $1200 to repair it. We were considering a new car anyway. If I don't repair the AC, I'm going to guess it will impact the trade-in value of the car. If you do trade it in, I wouldn't mention it. They may not.
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Jun 26, 2017 16:19
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Is that not duplicitous?
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Jun 26, 2017 16:26
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DID I RAISE YOU TO SPEAK WITH A FORKED TONGUE?!
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Jun 26, 2017 16:39
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Michael Scott posted:Is that not duplicitous? 1) Literally nobody ever should lose any sleep over "getting one over" on the scummiest industry around. 2) No. There's nothing stopping the dealership from actually inspecting your trade in a meaningful way. They will almost never do so since they're just going to offer you enough to break even on auctioning it. There's no reason to volunteer any more info than absolutely necessary when trading a car in.
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Jun 26, 2017 16:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:1) Literally nobody ever should lose any sleep over "getting one over" on the scummiest industry around. Cool, this makes sense. It's too bad car sales has that kind of deserved reputation, I wonder how it evolved to be so hostile when there are other highly competitive industries that aren't. I guess it's the stupid haggling. I learned in economics why haggling is theoretically better but in practice it seems to be the worst. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Jun 26, 2017 |
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Jun 26, 2017 17:11
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If they don't all, I won't tell. It still runs otherwise, just no AC. The breakdown just accelerates our new car decision I suppose between the 2018 Odyssey or 2017 Pacifica.
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Jun 26, 2017 17:20
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Breakfast Feud posted:Check the grounds and connection first, disconnect the wire at the sensor and see what the gauge does. It's grounded through its frame. Disconnected, it's past L. Out of the motor yet plugged in and grounded, it reads past L. Don''t worry, I put back in the old sensor while doing this so I wouldn't leak oil. rdb posted:Ford oil pressure gauges from that era(and beyond) are famous for being off or on. If its going past H I would think you bought the wrong sensor or the cluster itself is broken. Try putting the old one back in if you can. I put the old one back in and it's reading about 75% to H, so the needle is back where it's supposed to be. We'll see if it doesn't jump all over the place like before.
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Jun 26, 2017 21:34
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DTaeKim posted:If they don't all, I won't tell. It still runs otherwise, just no AC. The breakdown just accelerates our new car decision I suppose between the 2018 Odyssey or 2017 Pacifica. They won't ask. In the off chance they do ask, lie. If they actually call you on it (they won't) just tell them it was working when you came in. Seriously. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GU-bF8gXCE As an aside, Lehto's Law should be required listening for pretty much anyone before they buy a car.
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Jun 26, 2017 21:46
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IOwnCalculus posted:They won't ask. In the off chance they do ask, lie. If they actually call you on it (they won't) just tell them it was working when you came in. You say "I want a truck to tow, with the 4.1 rear axle ratio", they say "this one does", that's it, it must have it. Of course, being legally in the right doesn't necessarily help you in the slightest when it comes to actually resolving the issue in a practical sense.
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Jun 26, 2017 22:07
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Anyone here use wheel dollies for storing cars? Any good/brands to buy/avoid? Would love the self-jacking ones, but I'd prefer not to lose precious inches in a tight space.
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Jun 27, 2017 00:31
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I had to replace the air intake tube thing in my 2013 chevy sonic. Apparently when I was tightening one of the screws on that I unscrewed another cap somewhere else and it fell off into the engine and I couldn't find it. How hosed am I without the cap? For now I put a piece of plastic over it and don't need to drive until Saturday so I'm hoping I can figure out what part this is to replace it, or find an acceptable alternative. I think its the evaporator tube cap, but I'm not sure where I'd find one. I have an advance auto parts a 5 minute walk away so hopefully they can get it. Any suggestions? http://imgur.com/a/QSeDS
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Jun 27, 2017 01:00
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A Proper Uppercut posted:I mean, even you put it that way it sounds obvious. But speaking of major publications, they all actually seemed to like the Sonic, I guess that's the only reason I'm asking. I'm actually finding them around the same price range also. Almost no Prius though (trying to keep it under 10k), otherwise they would be on the shortlist. I was more referring to Deterioratatas statements regarding extended warranties than poking fun at your options. I actually think the Sonic is a pretty good looking car, but I see no circumstance that it could be better than the Fit. Even if maintenance costs are identical for the first 5-7 years, which do you think will last longer post-warranty? Which will hold resale value better?
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Jun 27, 2017 01:05
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I had to replace the air intake tube thing in my 2013 chevy sonic. Apparently when I was tightening one of the screws on that I unscrewed another cap somewhere else and it fell off into the engine and I couldn't find it. How hosed am I without the cap? For now I put a piece of plastic over it and don't need to drive until Saturday so I'm hoping I can figure out what part this is to replace it, or find an acceptable alternative. I think its the evaporator tube cap, but I'm not sure where I'd find one. I have an advance auto parts a 5 minute walk away so hopefully they can get it. Any suggestions? If that is what it looks like to me, it's a port for testing/filling your A/C system. The cap just keeps crud out of the valve. It's a good idea to cover it with tape or a piece of plastic or something, but the cap doesn't hold any pressure or serve any function besides keeping the valve insides clean. Safe to drive until you get a replacement cap or find the original one, just try to keep junk out of the valve in the mean time.
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Jun 27, 2017 01:11
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Anyone here use wheel dollies for storing cars? Any good/brands to buy/avoid? Would love the self-jacking ones, but I'd prefer not to lose precious inches in a tight space. Basically, as long as you're ok with what's involved in manhandling a mass of 1+ tons on 3" diameter castors, they do exactly what they say on the tin. If the space is so tight that the jacking lever on hydraulic ones is a major issue, you may need to rethink - or just use them with the jacking lever inboard. Whatever kind you get, position the wheel on them such that the dollie itself hits the wall before bodywork does.
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Jun 27, 2017 01:12
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PaintVagrant posted:I was more referring to Deterioratatas statements regarding extended warranties than poking fun at your options. I actually think the Sonic is a pretty good looking car, but I see no circumstance that it could be better than the Fit. A 2013 is already nearly 5 years old. How much different do you think the resale value will be for 10-year-old cars that cost about $20k new? Will it really matter? You're just asserting that the Honda has to be better because of reasons that you can't actually cite. Whichever car he likes better will be the right car for him. Liking the car he's driving will be far more important than whatever hairs you're trying to split.
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Jun 27, 2017 01:12
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Raluek posted:If that is what it looks like to me, it's a port for testing/filling your A/C system. The cap just keeps crud out of the valve. It's a good idea to cover it with tape or a piece of plastic or something, but the cap doesn't hold any pressure or serve any function besides keeping the valve insides clean. Safe to drive until you get a replacement cap or find the original one, just try to keep junk out of the valve in the mean time. Glad to know it won't destroy the car.
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Jun 27, 2017 01:54
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Poor fuel economy, poor power, occasional backfires, occasionally having to bury the accelerator to start, these are symptoms of timing being off right? 97 TJ with a crate 350
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Jun 27, 2017 14:46
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Among a dozen other possibilities, sure. It's probably one of the easiest to check.
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Jun 27, 2017 14:51
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Wanna drive dat TJ
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Jun 27, 2017 15:52
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InitialDave posted:I have non-jacking basic ones. I thought about the jacking levers inboard, but then I assumed the jacking pedal and pins would be difficult to operate, so I'm fine with manually jacking on/off the dumb-dollies twice a year. It will be for a full-size summer car in a "1.5" car garage, but with storage above the stored vehicle to be accessed occasionally. I forgot to write down the exact measurements, but I will have the keys to the space in a couple weeks and will also examine the floor in case the tiny wheels wont be able to handle it.
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Jun 27, 2017 16:18
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Juan Carlos III posted:Poor fuel economy, poor power, occasional backfires, occasionally having to bury the accelerator to start, these are symptoms of timing being off right? I'd check the fuel filter, if equipped.
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Jun 27, 2017 17:47
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