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Godholio posted:I can't remember if I've asked about this previously, but I'm having one HELL of a time with a lower ball joint on a '66 Corvette. It's nothing fancy, just a ball joint riveted into a control arm and press-fit into the spindle. Well, the joint shaft and spindle have apparently become one over the years. What I've tried: Does it look like this? 
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Jul 5, 2017 18:06
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spog posted:Remove the wheel from the car first. The man said you gotta weigh it down, what?
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Jul 5, 2017 18:16
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Pollyanna posted:I have a 2011 Honda Civic. The front driver-side wheel has a very slow leak, such that it lost maybe 5 psi in the span of a week. I took it to an (admittedly really lovely and useless) auto repair place and they said they were unable to find a leak. Is it possible for a leak to be too small to find, yet still result in a loss of pressure? Is there a way for me to find the leak myself? Or is a leak of this size not something I should bother fixing unless it gets worse? Squirt bottle with a bit of soap and water, and spray it all over the tire. Concentrate on the bead - where the tire and wheel meet. Put the wheel flat on the ground, and pour/spray the soapy water around the rim, and wait - you may see tiny bubbles - the ones that give it away are many tiny but similarly sized bubbles, slowly growing into a foam. If you have a bead leak - the wheel will need to be dismounted, the wheel cleaned with abrasives, and tire remounted with bead sealer.  Also spray your valve/sensor. Hondas have aluminum TPMS valve/sensors and they REALLY like to corrode. Below where you fill it with air - you'll see the hexagon shaped "nut" that holds the sensor into the wheel. Leaks around this area are EXTREMELY common. If you have a leak there, most shops will sell you a new sensor, and charge you to program it into your car's computer. ($$$). The metal part is replaceable on many of these sensors.  If your car has rubber valve stems - still check them - spray them and flex them side-to-side. They can crack and leak there.
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Jul 5, 2017 18:18
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opengl128 posted:Reminds me of this one I just watched I can't believe I watched that whole thing. But holy gently caress is that a head scratcher. I would have taken a match and some gasoline to that thing long before I ever figured that out.
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Jul 5, 2017 21:45
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joat mon posted:Does it look like this? Pretty much:  The gap between the spindle and the control arm is where the boot used to be.
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Jul 6, 2017 02:24
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I know this isn't exactly the right thread, but I was hoping someone could help me with a stupid ride on lawn mower question. I've got a Rover clipper with some Briggs and Stratton motor i don't know anything about. For a week or two it hasn't wanted to start. In my messing around today I discovered the fuel filter was absolutely packed full of black crud. I cleaned it up, and I can blow through it pretty easily now, doesn't seem to be too restricted, but it still doesn't want to start by itself. If I pour a tiny amount of petrol directly into the carb as I'm cranking it it will fire up right away, and run happily. Is it possible the fuel line/filter are still too restricted to get enough fuel in to actually start it, but once the engine is running it flows well enough?
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Jul 6, 2017 03:01
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Mahatma-Squid posted:I know this isn't exactly the right thread, but I was hoping someone could help me with a stupid ride on lawn mower question. Many small engines require priming to start (squirting fuel directly down the throttle throat). Check to see if there is a priming button somewhere near the carb. Should have a rubber cover. You push it 4 or 5 times before starting. The cover will often tear with age and will need to be replaced if it is.
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Jul 6, 2017 03:32
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Godholio posted:I can't remember if I've asked about this previously, but I'm having one HELL of a time with a lower ball joint on a '66 Corvette. It's nothing fancy, just a ball joint riveted into a control arm and press-fit into the spindle. Well, the joint shaft and spindle have apparently become one over the years. What I've tried: I had a similar problem changing my original ball joints on my 89 Golf, nothing would work including the thing ending up on one wheel and destroying a rented pickle fork. After a couple days of trying what finally did it for me was hitting the side of the knuckle itself where the ball joint went through with a regular hammer, a few good hits popped it right out in about 5 minutes. Edit: Hit it here. 
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jul 6, 2017 |
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Jul 6, 2017 03:59
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Godholio posted:Pretty much: I did the (original) balljoints on my '65 Impala a couple years ago, and I was able to get them out by smashing on a pickle fork. Do you have an air chisel? They make pickle fork attachments for those, and I really gotta get me one. Also, when you used the three-finger remover, were you using leverage, or an impact? I've had real good success with those when used with the bap-bap. I dunno how lovely the HF remover is, but autozone rents the OTC one and it's gotten me out of trouble before. I don't like the idea of heat, because I don't want to mess with the crystal structure of my steering knuckle of all things, but I guess that's a last ditch.
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Jul 6, 2017 04:25
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I have the HF 3-finger jobbie & it works like a charm with an impact wrench. If it seemed to be straining, I'd stop & give the knuckle a lick or two with the ball-peen while it's under tension (with the castle nut on, of course). Never failed to pop.
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Jul 6, 2017 04:33
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Deteriorata posted:Many small engines require priming to start (squirting fuel directly down the throttle throat). Check to see if there is a priming button somewhere near the carb. Should have a rubber cover. You push it 4 or 5 times before starting. The cover will often tear with age and will need to be replaced if it is. No primer on this engine as far as I can see, and I've never had to do anything special to start it before, it's a new problem. EDIT: Nevermind! It's okay again, I think there must have been gunk left in the fuel line messing things up. EDIT 2: Its not okay again! And this time it doesn't want to start even with fuel in the carb. Mahatma-Squid fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Jul 6, 2017 |
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Jul 6, 2017 04:55
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Godholio posted:Pretty much: (Assuming the upper ball joint is in place and the castle nut on the lower is backed of but still on) Put the jack on the control arm a few inches away from the ball joint and jack it up to where it wants to lift the car. This way the spring will be trying to help you separate the ball joint. Then start rapping with a hammer where everyone else has said to.
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Jul 6, 2017 05:50
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I've done all of these suggestions except a pickle attachment for the air chisel. Every tool store worth a drat is about an hour drive away...which I'll have to drive to return that HF thing anyway, and yeah, I used the impact on it. Maybe I'll swap it for another and try again, with the jack under the control arm. I'll grab a bigger hammer too...there's not a lot of room to get any momentum and there's lots of fiberglass around, unfortunately. Edit: Yes, nut is on but backed off.
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Jul 6, 2017 06:11
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Yeah the trick is to hit where it goes through, not the thing itself.
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Jul 6, 2017 07:40
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1985 Toyota Pickup, unknown mileage on the donor 22R engine. Completed the engine swap over the weekend and everything's fine except the truck won't deliver power once warmed up. When cold, it drives OK. Idle is initially a bit rough, but smooths out with a bit of throttle. Once warm (coolant temp > 140) then anytime you give throttle, when it goes back down to idle it stalls. If you try to hold anything other than medium throttle, the engine speed changes then dies. We even took the coolant sensor off the old motor and hung it in a glass of icewater. Once warm, the thing still doesn't idle for anything. It's also SUPER hard to start when warm. It'll turn over, but not catch. All the electrical checks good: TPS, airflow, coolant temp, bypass air valve, vacuum switch valve, start injector switch. Brand new oxygen sensor, plugs, wires, coil (I think). Cleaned the injectors. Good fuel pressure. I cannot figure this one out. Anywhere to look?
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Jul 6, 2017 11:40
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:1985 Toyota Pickup, unknown mileage on the donor 22R engine. I see a lot of google hits about the EGR staying open at operating temperature and causing a stall.
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Jul 6, 2017 11:54
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Is it carbed? That seems almost like what I've heard vapor lock on a dead-headed carb setup sounds like.
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Jul 6, 2017 11:59
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1999 Subaru Impreza. I get a gurgling noise after I turn off my car when parked facing downhill. Any ideas? No white smoke or oil milkshake.
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Jul 6, 2017 17:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:1999 Subaru Impreza. I get a gurgling noise after I turn off my car when parked facing downhill. Any ideas? No white smoke or oil milkshake. Get us a youtube recording of that, sounds like a fun noise.
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Jul 6, 2017 17:04
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I can often hear fluids draining down to the bottom of the engine after I shut off my Jeep. It must be a louder gurgle than that, right?
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Jul 6, 2017 17:08
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22 Eargesplitten posted:1999 Subaru Impreza. I get a gurgling noise after I turn off my car when parked facing downhill. Any ideas? No white smoke or oil milkshake. Is it due to coolant boiling in the reservoir? I've had that happen due to a bad radiator cap.
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Jul 6, 2017 17:23
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That's entirety possible, the radiator was replaced a few months ago after the old one sprung a leak. I'll try to remember to get a recording when I get home. I would have given that detail but I tend to post too many details, people's eyes glaze over, and nobody answers my post.
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Jul 6, 2017 19:33
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Elsa posted:I see a lot of google hits about the EGR staying open at operating temperature and causing a stall. Is that the air bypass valve? That one is opening cold and closing hot. Also, EFI on this motor.
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Jul 6, 2017 23:40
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22 Eargesplitten posted:That's entirety possible, the radiator was replaced a few months ago after the old one sprung a leak. I'll try to remember to get a recording when I get home. also "burp" your radiator it might just have a big bubble of air in it. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-burp-a-vehicles-coolant-system
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Jul 6, 2017 23:52
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Is that the air bypass valve? That one is opening cold and closing hot. Yeah and the google hits involve faulty vacuum lines or bad routing to it. There was another case where the fuel pump shut down after decelerating from midrange rpm. Instead of holding an idle. Apparently there is a paperclip test to hold a fuel pump circuit closed.
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Jul 7, 2017 00:41
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Mahatma-Squid posted:No primer on this engine as far as I can see, and I've never had to do anything special to start it before, it's a new problem. If the fuel filter was that gunked up, you may have gunk/gas varnish in the carb. It'll probably need to be removed and deeply cleaned.
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Jul 7, 2017 02:30
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Elsa posted:Yeah and the google hits involve faulty vacuum lines or bad routing to it. Ok. I'll have a look at the air bypass valve. I'm pretty sure it opens/shuts based on a signal from the computer based on coolant temp. The fuel pump relay wiring was spotty and the relay base was cracked, so now there's a switch on the dash for the fuel pump.
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Jul 7, 2017 03:21
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BIZARRE VW ELECTRIC DOOR PROBLEM SOLVED I literally just unplugged everything and plugged it back in over and over and over and it just started to work. Im going to torch this car.
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Jul 7, 2017 04:21
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Leperflesh posted:also "burp" your radiator it might just have a big bubble of air in it. So begin with step 2? I've already got some antifreeze, do I have to worry about mixing types? I don't know what brand the shop that replaced the radiator used. I'll probably just add antifreeze rather than doing more mixing, since 60/40 or even 70/30 is either better or not significantly worse than 50/50, right? I forgot to record it tonight.
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Jul 7, 2017 05:13
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22 Eargesplitten posted:So begin with step 2? I've already got some antifreeze, do I have to worry about mixing types? I don't know what brand the shop that replaced the radiator used. I'll probably just add antifreeze rather than doing more mixing, since 60/40 or even 70/30 is either better or not significantly worse than 50/50, right? Swap the radiator cap first. They're less than 5 bucks. It's easy and will likely fix the problem. Go for the more complicated stuff afterward. If the old one can't hold sufficient pressure, the coolant will boil rather than just superheating, which results in gurgling at the reservoir. It's mainly evident when the car is stopped, but you may be able to hear it while driving.
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Jul 7, 2017 05:24
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Since it's so cheap, I'll try that. Would that explain it only making the gurgling while pointing downhill? Just to test I parked on a flat area today and if it was there, it was quiet enough I can't be sure.
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Jul 7, 2017 06:12
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I have some related stupid questions. My 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue (~142000 miles) has been having intermittent electrical problems that I think get triggered by rain/being particularly wet outside. When it's acting up, the abs, brake, airbag, and trac off dashboard lights will come on and off intermittently. The first time it started happening, it also boiled my battery. Smelled sulfur, heard it bubbling and saw smoke. Replaced the battery and the alternator. It still happens though. Naturally it never acted up when a mechanic was actually checking it out. The fits don't last too long but it does mess with my headlights which makes me nervous. It was behaving just fine lately but we had a lot of rain today and it started up again to the point that my current couple month old battery was boiling when I came home. I've had a few people tell me it could be a loose wire or connection of some sort. If that's it, are those things tough to find? Is it worth trying to fix the car in general? The mechanics I've taken it to say it looks like everything else is in good shape but it's exhausting being stressed out while driving. Related stupid question: I probably have to replace my battery again now, right? Did boiling it irrevocably gently caress it up? Additional hopefully helpful details: when my dashboard and headlights go out, the clock and odometer are never affected and it didn't seem to affect the radio either. When I was driving it home and it was acting up, it would buck a little bit when I went from braking to pressing on the gas. And my acceleration is terrible when it's fritzing out. Thanks for any help anyone can give me, really hoping it's not something that will explode my car at any second.
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Jul 7, 2017 06:57
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The ABS, brake, and trac off lights will all come on if there's an issue with the antilock system. But that issue may be caused by wonky voltage, especially if those lights only come on when the car is acting up. The airbag system should be controlled by a separate computer; both systems spazzing out at the same time usually points at a voltage issue (you've figured this part out already). Has your mechanic checked the ground cable from the battery? Completely, end to end, including stripping back the insulation a bit at both the battery and engine ends to make sure the cable isn't corroded internally? If the ground isn't making good contact somewhere, all sorts of weird poo poo happens, including the voltage regulator telling the alternator to crank out as much power as possible (which will boil your battery, and freak out the electronics). It's also connected to the body somewhere along the way. What are the headlights doing? Kinda acting like strobes at a nightclub (pulsing between bright and dim)? Or just going on and off? Burning out really quick? If they're strobing, either the new alternator took a poo poo, or the ground to the engine block isn't making good contact (the alternator grounds through the mounting bracket, and thus, the engine block). If you have a multimeter, you might want to try checking voltage at the battery terminals when it's spazzing out. I'm betting you're going to see a much higher than usual voltage (you shouldn't see over 14.5V with it running, ever.. I'd guess you'll either see something like 18 volts or 10 volts, or it may be all over the place - ideally, you'll see around 13.2 at idle). Also, whenever it's spazzing out, if the battery is getting overcharged, you're going to smell that sulfur smell. You do not want to do anything to cause even a tiny spark near the battery - that smell is hydrogen gas, and it goes boom pretty easy. If the headlights are getting a lot brighter, that's a solid indicator that the voltage has shot way up. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 07:22
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Some Oldsmobiles/Pontiacs I've seen do something like that. The gauges go all to hell. If you plug in a code scanner, you might find "lost communication with module " type codes with code numbers that start with U. Some malibus have their engine computer wiring wrapped around a transmission cooler line from the factory. The computer is close to the battery. Check wiring bundles for chafing. If your battery is a side post - make sure those 5/16" bolts are tight. If you can move the cable.back and forth, it ain't tight enough. Use a 5/16" socket on those - an 8mm will strip them.
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Jul 7, 2017 07:30
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The Intrigue does use a side post battery. It's closely related to the Grand Prix and Buick Century + Buick Regal of that era, a bit larger than the Malibu (Intrigue is a W body, Malibu of that era is a N body). An 01 probably won't have GMLAN or CAN BUS though, so they may not be able to see any Uxxxx codes. Probably need a Tech2 or Verus to dig that deep. 
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Jul 7, 2017 07:56
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Those cars also eat alternators in interesting fashions. So, don't just check it with a meter. Check it with a meter while somebody revs the engine, and also on the AC setting. They go...weird.
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Jul 7, 2017 08:41
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Would you say their alternator eating habits might even be... Intriguing? 
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Jul 7, 2017 08:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
I've actually noticed that they do that a bit when the car is behaving. When it's acting up, they will go completely off and on. Thanks for all the feedback so far. So it's worth getting it checked out? Hopefully not too expensive? If I let it dry out, I can hopefully at least drive it to a mechanic? Sorry about all the questions, I'm completely dumb when it comes to cars Edit: I guess I'll add that I don't mind fixing it up if it's worth it. I'm a bit attached to the car and I love it's acceleration, even if it's a bit beat up and getting on in years and miles. But I want to be cautious I'm not throwing money into a black hole either. scorpiobean fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 14:06
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Since it's so cheap, I'll try that. Would that explain it only making the gurgling while pointing downhill? Just to test I parked on a flat area today and if it was there, it was quiet enough I can't be sure. When you're pointed downhill, the heater core (in your dash) may be the highest point, so bubbles go into it. When you burp your rad (if you wind up doing that), point up hill, so that the radiator cap is the highest point in the cooling system. The question here is what is causing the bubbles: if it's boiling due to a leaky cap or if it's just got air trapped. I agree with replacing the radiator cap as a good first step. As to your other question, it's OK to do the burping with just distilled water or with just antifreeze, because you're probably only pouring in a cup or two and not radically changing the mix.
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Jul 7, 2017 19:56
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Can anyone help me understand what these things are? They are white square boxes either on the trunk or roof of patrol cars. I've seen as many as 4 on a trunk. Every google search I try no matter the wording would claim that they are license plate cameras, but those are not what I'm talking about. LP cams are not white square boxes. These have no obvious apertures for capping license plates. This wish I could find a good picture of what I'm talking about, but I can't 
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Jul 8, 2017 04:52
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