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We have a mercury vapor light on a pole in our back yard. It uses ed28 bulbs I think. Last night we had some storms and the "globe" around the bulb fell off and broke. It is 10" diameter and open on the top and bottom. I'm not sure what the terminology for this specific part is called.
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Jul 4, 2017 19:57
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Lowes or home depot should have at least one type of mercury vapor bulb in stock.
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Jul 4, 2017 20:25
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The glass is probably called a lens or globe. Try to get a model number and see if you can get a parts sheet, though I've often had to just order whole fixtures just to get an exact match on commercial stuff.
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Jul 4, 2017 20:39
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The Gardenator posted:Lowes or home depot should have at least one type of mercury vapor bulb in stock. It's not the bulb I need, I need to replace the clear globe/shield thing that goes around it.
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Jul 5, 2017 00:39
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I thought the question, as I understood it, was kind of simple. You are gonna need the manufacture and model number, or you could try the replacement globes they sell at hardware stores. Although, I don't think large globes are stocked at most places.
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Jul 5, 2017 01:52
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I built these pallets that are supposed to fit over a pan, but when the pan arrived it was about 3/16" too wide to fit. My solution was to buy a router attachment for my Dremel 200 and shave off a bit's width down the inside edge. The pan is an inch tall and I need to shave down 80 inches in total. Do you think my Dremel can handle that kind of work? I don't have much in the way of power tools but I plan on buying a circular saw on Friday.
LawfulWaffle fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Jul 5, 2017 |
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Jul 5, 2017 18:11
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My whole yard is infested with weeds, I'm going to spray round up on the whole thing. The easiest way to take care of all the weed roots is probably to till the yard afterwards yes? How long before I should till? I am getting rid of the whole yard, not just the weeds. Although it is 95% weeds. Is there any recommendations or techniques to grow grass /apply topsoil on a slope? Also, is there no landscaping thread? I couldn't find it in the search.
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Jul 5, 2017 19:49
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I recommend round-up (don't buy the premix with the sprayer, get yourself some concentrate and a canister sprayer, it costs about 1/100th as much per gallon), a burn to get rid of all the dead stuff a few weeks later, and sure maybe a tilling to soften the soil, but then you'll need to take a drag to it to smooth things out again. But very importantly, going forward, a 2,4-D application a couple times a year will do wonders. Don't go over the recommended potency, it'll kill everything if you go too strong, but at the recommended dilution, it'll kill just the dicots and keep your precious monocot grasses. Also be sure to get grass seed appropriate to the conditions, like don't go planting wonderful lush fescue in a full-sun South Carolina lawn. Also, when you spread your seed, it can help to drag a tine harrow over it to set the seed just a liiiiittle in. And don't forget to keep it watered, there's a really delicate stage when the grass starts growing. Could also consider hydroseeding: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/hydroseeding (no comment on the quality of that link, it was just one of the first that came up and is just intended to get you on the right google track.) Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jul 5, 2017 |
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Jul 5, 2017 19:56
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lol internet. posted:My whole yard is infested with weeds, I'm going to spray round up on the whole thing. The easiest way to take care of all the weed roots is probably to till the yard afterwards yes? That sounds drastic and expensive. Do you have a good local nursery who can better advise, especially factoring in local conditions and optimal timing? For what it's worth, most weeds are annuals. They die in the winter, and only re-infest if given open ground. I had good luck with a combination of weed-control fertilizer, core aeration and overseeding, but I did it in the Spring. If you're in the US, I'm sure the July heat isn't ideal for germination, and if you till the ground up, you might just end up with a lumpy yard and more weeds.
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Jul 5, 2017 20:01
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Whether you scrap the lawn or not, still recommend that 2,4-D a couple times a year, it's like magic when used correctly.
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Jul 5, 2017 20:03
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Bad Munki posted:I recommend round-up (don't buy the premix with the sprayer, get yourself some concentrate and a canister sprayer, it costs about 1/100th as much per gallon), a burn to get rid of all the dead stuff a few weeks later, and sure maybe a tilling to soften the soil, but then you'll need to take a drag to it to smooth things out again. But very importantly, going forward, a 2,4-D application a couple times a year will do wonders. Don't go over the recommended potency, it'll kill everything if you go too strong, but at the recommended dilution, it'll kill just the dicots and keep your precious monocot grasses. Also be sure to get grass seed appropriate to the conditions, like don't go planting wonderful lush fescue in a full-sun South Carolina lawn. LEVIN, PAPANTONIO, THOMAS, MITCHELL, RAFFERTY & PROCTOR, P.A. would like a word with you- https://www.levinlaw.com/monsanto-roundup-lawsuit-cancer-link
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Jul 5, 2017 21:21
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Okay
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Jul 5, 2017 21:44
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I'm considering putting in a brick planter in my front yard. Am I understanding the process broadly correctly as: 0) Double check with call-before-you-dig (which in my case I've already done as part of prior projects). 1) Dig out a concrete foundation. It doesn't freeze where I live, so just a 3-4" perimeter foundation. 2) Use mortar to bond first course of bricks to the concrete. 3) Place rest of bricks (with mortar, obviously). Obviously there are details and skills involved in e.g. laying the courses out correctly, consistently getting the right amount of mortar (with the right amount of water) on the bricks, etc. I just want to be sure I understand at a high level what the process for a project like this would be.
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Jul 5, 2017 22:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm considering putting in a brick planter in my front yard. Am I understanding the process broadly correctly as: On the call before digging part, typically those markings are only guaranteed for 10 days or something, so if you haven't called recently, you may want to do it again just to protect yourself (because those guys do miss marking things).
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Jul 5, 2017 22:05
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:On the call before digging part, typically those markings are only guaranteed for 10 days or something, so if you haven't called recently, you may want to do it again just to protect yourself (because those guys do miss marking things). That's a fair point. And I guess that this project is more at risk of hitting e.g. an unexpectedly-shallow water main or sewage line, since the project would be in the front yard rather than the back. Thanks.
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Jul 5, 2017 22:10
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eddiewalker posted:That sounds drastic and expensive. The weeds are pretty drastic like 2-4 feet tall, can't walk through. Some of the stems on them reached half an inch. There was never grass there to begin with, it's a new development with an unfinished backyard. My goal is though to seed in September. It's best to seed in fall or spring, but fall is better. I've cut down all the weeds to less then 1 foot now, plan on using the generic round up, kill weeds, till, clean out roots, rocks, debris, straighten, water or a week to see if any other weeds come up, round up concenrate again, then top soil, then seed. (Unless this process is wrong way to go about things) But yeah, I'm worried because of erosion since I'm in the PNW and we get rain alot during the winter months. Also, the fact that the yard is on a slope, applying the top soil might not be that simple, but from what I understand so far, a organic blanket to hold the seed/dirt in while it germinates. Bad Munki posted:I recommend round-up (don't buy the premix with the sprayer, get yourself some concentrate and a canister sprayer, it costs about 1/100th as much per gallon), a burn to get rid of all the dead stuff a few weeks later, and sure maybe a tilling to soften the soil, but then you'll need to take a drag to it to smooth things out again. But very importantly, going forward, a 2,4-D application a couple times a year will do wonders. Don't go over the recommended potency, it'll kill everything if you go too strong, but at the recommended dilution, it'll kill just the dicots and keep your precious monocot grasses. Also be sure to get grass seed appropriate to the conditions, like don't go planting wonderful lush fescue in a full-sun South Carolina lawn. Yeah I plan on tilling then adding a TON of top soil, this is like 3000 sqft yard. I plan on using Scotts sun and shade mix for seeds.I will look into the hydroseeding. Thanks This is what it looks like, doesn't look as bad from a birds eye view but it was and the birds eye view was taken last month. The other two was more recent. http://imgur.com/a/II4o0 (Maybe zoom in) lol internet. fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jul 6, 2017 |
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Jul 6, 2017 04:35
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socketwrencher posted:Sounds reasonable, but have you considered removing the screwy 2x4s and re-nailing them level with the other joists? I ended up sanding them down and then ended up just pulling it all out because I sort of thought the overall fit was so tight that I was making going to have a problem with possible expansion putting maybe too much pressure on the existing joists, so I'm going to shave it down a little bit on the ends. But the what I ended up doing in the first place was just building a four-sided frame to slide in between the joists and then nail that in to give me a little extra support for the edges and to get underneath the new/old subfloor. But I'm also wanting to replace the floor beneath my toilet and I'm trying to figure that one out. Looking into it, it's an ABS flange, but in a mobile home. I was assuming that I'd have to cut around the flange or cut off the flange for a fix, but I'm seeing that some mobile homes had a threaded connection rather than a solvent one on the flange and I"m not sure yet which I have until I can take it all up again.
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Jul 6, 2017 06:16
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I have a cluster of maybe 2 dozen small trees that I need to "remove" because the country inspector is a dick. The widest has a 4" trunk but most are pretty small. Would I be better off getting a small 1 handed axe: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=17016456 Or a 28 incher? http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1274433
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Jul 6, 2017 19:06
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Josh Lyman posted:I have a cluster of maybe 2 dozen small trees that I need to "remove" because the country inspector is a dick. The widest has a 4" trunk but most are pretty small. I'd say a saw. Axes are a lot better for splitting than felling. Especially small trees. Chainsaw better. But any hand branch saw would probably be fine. http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1275468
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Jul 6, 2017 19:17
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Gounads posted:I'd say a saw. Axes are a lot better for splitting than felling. Especially small trees.
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Jul 6, 2017 19:47
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Josh Lyman posted:Should I be concerned about the teeth wearing out? Depends on how much you need to cut them. If you just need to fell them, it will be fine. If you need to cut off every branch and sharpen each one into pikes to keep out further inspectors, then maybe pick up a sharpening kit.
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Jul 6, 2017 20:40
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Josh Lyman posted:Should I be concerned about the teeth wearing out? should not in that few uses
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Jul 6, 2017 20:41
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Just don't stick the sawblade into the dirt or run it into any rocks or nails. That kind of stuff will dull the blade super-quick. And remember to keep the saw supplied with oil. They go through their oil supplies faster than you'd think.
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Jul 6, 2017 21:16
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LawfulWaffle posted:I built these pallets that are supposed to fit over a pan, but when the pan arrived it was about 3/16" too wide to fit. My solution was to buy a router attachment for my Dremel 200 and shave off a bit's width down the inside edge. The pan is an inch tall and I need to shave down 80 inches in total. Do you think my Dremel can handle that kind of work? I don't have much in the way of power tools but I plan on buying a circular saw on Friday. 80 inches is over 6 feet do you have a measurement muck up somewhere? Going through 6 feet of anything with a dremel is gonna be tough.
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Jul 6, 2017 21:47
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LawfulWaffle posted:I built these pallets that are supposed to fit over a pan, but when the pan arrived it was about 3/16" too wide to fit. My solution was to buy a router attachment for my Dremel 200 and shave off a bit's width down the inside edge. The pan is an inch tall and I need to shave down 80 inches in total. Do you think my Dremel can handle that kind of work? I don't have much in the way of power tools but I plan on buying a circular saw on Friday. just wait til friday the dremel router attachment is cool but i'm pretty sure it's for making baseboards for doll houses. well maybe a bit more but it's not like "a router."
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Jul 7, 2017 00:19
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When I got to Ace, the guy initially suggested a bow saw like you guys did but then switched his rec to a 14" hand axe. I really wanted to axe because I thought it would be more useful afterwards. I have made so little progress on the trees. Gonna have to go back tomorrow to get the saw. I should've trusted you guys. 
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 00:58
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Josh Lyman posted:When I got to Ace, the guy initially suggested a bow saw like you guys did but then switched his rec to a 14" hand axe. I really wanted to axe because I thought it would be more useful afterwards. Did you perhaps buy a cheap axe that wasn't sharpened out of the box? It might not be super great, but an axe should make quick work of sub 4" trees.
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Jul 7, 2017 02:51
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Gotta say, I fail to see how an axe is more useful than a nice little bow saw. I say this having a couple of each.
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Jul 7, 2017 02:55
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I've topped some rather large trees with an 18" pruning saw. I have an electric chainsaw, but I don't use it up on ladders. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fiskars-18-in-D-Handled-Pruning-Saw-393540-1002/203273602
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Jul 7, 2017 03:04
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Josh Lyman posted:When I got to Ace, the guy initially suggested a bow saw like you guys did but then switched his rec to a 14" hand axe. I really wanted to axe because I thought it would be more useful afterwards. Home depot rents tools (like chainsaws). The guys at the home depot rental counter now recognize me.
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Jul 7, 2017 03:39
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devicenull posted:Home depot rents tools (like chainsaws). The guys at the home depot rental counter now recognize me. Notably, it would make it much easier to cut up the branches to fit into those giant paper lawn trimmings bags so that country sanitation could pick it up. Getting through the trunk is one thing, but then I have to do something with a 15' mobile tree. I'm probably gonna get the $15 30" bow saw.
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Jul 7, 2017 04:01
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Josh Lyman posted:Notably, it would make it much easier to cut up the branches to fit into those giant paper lawn trimmings bags so that country sanitation could pick it up. Getting through the trunk is one thing, but then I have to do something with a 15' mobile tree. just about the #1 thing my cordless reciprocating saw gets used for is taking smaller branches off larger ones, and also ruining my gate if i had a chainsaw i'd use that though
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Jul 7, 2017 04:08
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SoundMonkey posted:just wait til friday Using the Dremel was a non-starter; it's clearly too big of a task for the motor. I tried using a chisel to dig out some space but I used it upside down and made a mess of the wood. The circular saw would be an easy solution if I was 100% sure I wasn't going to hit a nail. As it is, I think I have to cut my loses and buy the lumber again, only cut the boards a 1/2 inch longer. I can re-purpose the pallets I made into planters or something.
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Jul 7, 2017 12:34
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LawfulWaffle posted:Using the Dremel was a non-starter; it's clearly too big of a task for the motor. I tried using a chisel to dig out some space but I used it upside down and made a mess of the wood. The circular saw would be an easy solution if I was 100% sure I wasn't going to hit a nail. As it is, I think I have to cut my loses and buy the lumber again, only cut the boards a 1/2 inch longer. I can re-purpose the pallets I made into planters or something. Check out harbor freight routers.
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Jul 7, 2017 14:11
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Because I used to "be a roofer" (I spent about 5 summers in high school and college working for my uncle's contracting business, mostly roofing) I've been roped into re-roofing my fiance's mom's place, a single-wide mobile home. I would prefer to do a metal roof, simply because ease of install (and ESPECIALLY not having to remove the old shingles) but I'm not sure she wants to spend the money, though I think if we factor EVERYTHING into account, metal might be break-even with shingles since she wouldn't have to pay for disposal of the old ones. I imagine we'd have to rent a roll off dumpster, because no way am I making God knows how many trips trying to haul the old ones away in just my little pickup...even if I rented a trailer that's still a lot of manually unloading heavy, heavy shingles. Does my reasoning seem pretty solid? And they still want me to do shingles, one weird question from someone who hasn't actually done it in over 15 years: Why don't they make plain, solid (i.e., not 3-tab, and not architectural) shingles anymore? When I was doing it in the late 90's/early 2000's, my uncle only ever installed plain 3-tab, or plain "solid" ones. I don't recall ever seeing/installing the fancier "architectural" style. But now I can't find the plain ones anywhere, at least at Lowe's, HD, or a couple local places I looked at. My uncle was generally against 3-tab (though in the end if the customer wanted it, he/she got it,) because you always had those little gaps between the tabs, which meant that technically there was only 1 layer of shingle in each one of those gaps, wheres the solid ones had two layers everywhere. It doesn't seem like much, but there were many times when we removed old 3-tab shingles where it was obvious that portion of the the shingles underneath the gaps were clearly far more worn out than the rest. It also gives more corners for the shingles to start to peel up from.
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Jul 7, 2017 21:08
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I got through about 40% of the trees when I discovered The county can go gently caress off. I've got federal law on my side. I tried to provide some protection for the nest from predators. Stay safe little bird! 
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Jul 7, 2017 21:17
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Josh Lyman posted:I got through about 40% of the trees when I discovered Any sign of the mom? Seems kinda late in the year for eggs.
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Jul 7, 2017 21:23
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Are you staying there's a federal law that doesn't allow you to cut down a tree with a bird in it?
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Jul 7, 2017 21:30
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Astonishing Wang posted:Are you staying there's a federal law that doesn't allow you to cut down a tree with a bird in it? Several Federal laws, depending on the species. Endangered Species Act and the Migratory Bird Act would be the two big ones.
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Jul 7, 2017 21:42
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Moen positemp shower. I replaced the cartridge in troubleshooting. Can't figure out why I'm not getting much cold water. If you turn it slowly, it should go COLD>WARM>HOT. What is doing instead is HOT>LUKEWARM>WARM>HOT. Just started a few weeks ago doing this. Only in the guest shower. The guest sink is a split trap and the cold is cold.
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Jul 7, 2017 21:46
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