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Oh yeah, one coat of primer will absolutely kill any colours underneath.
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Jul 10, 2017 23:20
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Nebakenezzer posted:Nice. How did you get the highlights on the panel gaps so clear and even? I use oil paint thinned with turpentine. Go in sections giving a sloppy wash, wait a few minutes, then wipe it off and buff it out with a paper towel. I learned the technique from the PLASMO youtube channel. Watching his videos has really made a positive impact on the results I've gotten out of the last few planes I've built. An example of the oil/turpentine wash is here (although I think he uses mineral spirits instead of turpentine). I prefer turpentine because it seems to dry faster and smells a hell of a lot better than mineral spirits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bT9qmhfXEEg&t=1178s
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Jul 11, 2017 00:46
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You can pick up some low-odor turps/mineral spirits at an art store, and that stuff barely has a smell. It's a bit "softer" as well on enamels and oils, so I find you can feather your effects to greater degree since it won't wipe them out as quick as the full-strength stuff. Great link though, always love finding great tutorials.
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Jul 11, 2017 02:00
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You can pick up some low-odor turps/mineral spirits at an art store, and that stuff barely has a smell. It's a bit "softer" as well on enamels and oils, so I find you can feather your effects to greater degree since it won't wipe them out as quick as the full-strength stuff. I'll order some of that oderless Turpenoid and give that a try, thanks! That video I posted is not one of his better ones. Most of them have either him describing what he is doing or at least text on the screen describing what is going on. PLASMO is definitely my favorite youtube modeling channel. If you haven't hear of him Paul Budzik has some amazing tutorials as well but most of them are pretty advanced.
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Jul 11, 2017 02:49
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My art store had no idea what primer was or how it would relate to an airbrush. I'll check the hobby shop or just order online 
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Jul 11, 2017 03:38
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Art store people are generally working in a different sphere. They don't much use primer as we know it for their work. At most they might consider Gesso a primer for canvas. Still, to not have a little knowledge about what other types of primer are and how they could be used is a little suspect. It'd be like asking a car mechanic about your truck and them being all "What is truck? I work on car, CAR! I no understand truck."
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Jul 11, 2017 03:54
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This Stynylrez stuff is so expensive. They want like $35-50 for a single bottle, or $40-80 for the 3 pack. Is this accurate or just amazon.ca having horrible prices like usual? *edit* lol it's like $15 on amazon.com, gently caress you Canada. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jul 11, 2017 |
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Jul 11, 2017 04:02
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Baronjutter posted:My art store had no idea what primer was or how it would relate to an airbrush. I'll check the hobby shop or just order online If you are okay with airbrushing lacquers, I would recommend Alclad Primers. They work pretty well right out of the bottle. I also like using Mr. Surfacer 1000 as a primer (also a lacquer) but it does need to be thinned. It's hard to describe the finish it gives other than to say very matte with a little bit of tooth. It's nice. edit: poo poo, if you are in Canada, you are out of luck from Sprue Brothers. They only ship flammable stuff to the lower 48.
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Jul 11, 2017 04:06
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I really want to keep my paints and cleanup 100% water based and as non-toxic as possible as I hate dealing with anything that isn't water wash up.
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Jul 11, 2017 04:09
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Baronjutter posted:My #1 painting problem is the inside laser'd edges of my cardboard, like all the window openings and poo poo. Because it's black and rough it always takes a good 3-4 thick coats to cover. I tried spraying with a primer from a rattle can but to get all the different inside angles I ended up ruining the front by covering it with a lake of paint. When I do get the airbrush, how do I avoid over-painting the front when I'm trying to paint the inside edges of openings? Perhaps this is a stupid question because I don't get what you are doing, but... Why don't you spray the inside edges of the opening form the inside of the building so that the heavy overspray is on the inside of the building where nobody will be able to see it?
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Jul 11, 2017 04:33
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Baronjutter posted:This Stynylrez stuff is so expensive. They want like $35-50 for a single bottle, or $40-80 for the 3 pack. Is this accurate or just amazon.ca having horrible prices like usual? Depends. You can get Stynylrez in different bottle sizes, and the largest can definitely go for $70+. I bought from MeepleMart here in Canada when it first came out. I got the largest bottle of white, and a medium bottle of black. That way I have white which is always needed, and I can use the black to mix up a batch of light-gray when I want a neutral tone.
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Jul 11, 2017 05:06
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Baronjutter posted:This Stynylrez stuff is so expensive. They want like $35-50 for a single bottle, or $40-80 for the 3 pack. Is this accurate or just amazon.ca having horrible prices like usual? Haha, what the gently caress? I live in Toronto and the 3x60 ml pack goes for $25-30 depending on where you buy it. A rattlecan of Tamiya white primer is around $10.
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Jul 11, 2017 05:39
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Depends. You can get Stynylrez in different bottle sizes, and the largest can definitely go for $70+. yeah I found it for a reasonable price on that meeple thing. I don't know how amazon.ca can't do remotely competitive prices. Also painting the window openings from the back sounds like a good idea. I've just generally had the building assembled before I paint it.
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Jul 11, 2017 05:44
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SkunkDuster posted:Finally got pictures of the Tamiya 1:72 Thunderbolt. This is the most enjoyable model I've ever built. Everything went together like a charm and there aren't many decals or much armament under the wings. Decals and armament are my least favorite part of building these models. Currently working on a 1:48 Tamiya Douglas A1 Skyraider and that thing has about a million missles and bombs and poo poo attached to the wings. Not looking forward to that. These panel lines are immaculate. Was this all a ton of time and masking or do you have some other dark voodoo?
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Jul 11, 2017 14:10
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Baronjutter posted:yeah I found it for a reasonable price on that meeple thing. I don't know how amazon.ca can't do remotely competitive prices. Painting the inside edges of the windows without soaking everything else will be trivial with an airbrush. I'll throw in a recomendation for the iwata hp-cs eclipse--it's not very expensive and disassembles without tools. Avoid the iwata neo. As mentioned before the nozzles are very fragile. It's a poor design imo.
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Jul 11, 2017 14:20
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Super 3 posted:These panel lines are immaculate. Was this all a ton of time and masking or do you have some other dark voodoo? Dark voodoo. SkunkDuster posted:I use oil paint thinned with turpentine. Go in sections giving a sloppy wash, wait a few minutes, then wipe it off and buff it out with a paper towel. I learned the technique from the PLASMO youtube channel. Watching his videos has really made a positive impact on the results I've gotten out of the last few planes I've built.
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Jul 11, 2017 14:21
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SkunkDuster posted:I use oil paint thinned with turpentine. Go in sections giving a sloppy wash, wait a few minutes, then wipe it off and buff it out with a paper towel. I learned the technique from the PLASMO youtube channel. Watching his videos has really made a positive impact on the results I've gotten out of the last few planes I've built. Holy cow, you used straight turpentine and went sloppy with it? I've melted several otherwise good paint jobs doing that. Porbably killled a coupel braincells to. Odorless turpenoid is the way to go.
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Jul 11, 2017 14:34
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Gewehr 43 posted:Holy cow, you used straight turpentine and went sloppy with it? I've melted several otherwise good paint jobs doing that. Porbably killled a coupel braincells to. Odorless turpenoid is the way to go. Aside from the little details in the cockpit which were done with acrylics, that model was completely painted in lacquer which doesn't seem to react to the turpentine. I do have some turpenoid on order though, so I'll probably switch to that if it works well.
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Jul 11, 2017 14:53
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I use odourless turpentoid, that doesn't react with anything but oil, but I have to use mineral spirits with some Golden varnishes. The guy at the store said that Golden airbrush medium worked for thinning them, but it just got my airbrush extremely sticky.
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Jul 11, 2017 15:27
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What is it with these people at art stores giving bad info. The Golden Airbrush medium is purely for their acrylic paints, not the varnishes. Man, I swear everyone that works at a store for "artistes" is flaky as hell. I guess the old adage "He who cannot, teaches" can be changed around for art store employees, "He who cannot, sells."
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Jul 11, 2017 20:01
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I dunno, but a different art store a) told me that odourless turpentoid was fine to thin that varnish (it wasn't) and b) insisted that full strength mineral spirits were far too toxic and nobody sold them. So I just went to the hardware store instead  . Their acetone was also a hell of a lot cheaper.
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Jul 11, 2017 20:06
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gently caress my life, apparently airbrush hoses are like phone chargers where every brand has their own sizes of connectors?? What the hell do I need? A new hose? An adapter? Nothing has any text on it telling me it's a 5mm johnson-hitler style connector or what ever. The blue hose that came with my compressor has the same medium sized connector at both ends. The hose that came with my new airbrush has a huge connector at one end and a tiny one at the other to connect to the brush.
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Jul 12, 2017 00:19
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After trying to measure the connectors on my hoses in tons of different ways and getting wildly conflicting results (none of which were the same as those on the data sheet, naturally), I just took the hoses to the plumbing store and got one of the clerks to go into the back and try on pieces until they fit. I had to go in two stages, something like 1/8 to 5/16 and then 5/16 to 1/4. Get some teflon tape to seal the connection, too.
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Jul 12, 2017 00:28
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Baronjutter posted:gently caress my life, apparently airbrush hoses are like phone chargers where every brand has their own sizes of connectors??
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Jul 12, 2017 01:08
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Cartoon posted:Personally I'd make a manifold that had an outlet for each and maybe a capped spare for each type. The smallest one and the biggest one are ends of the same hose, so thankfully he only needs to come up with adapters for one connections which will stay connected at all times.
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Jul 12, 2017 01:24
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This will do it but they want nearly $40 for Canadians. http://www.tcpglobal.com/ABDA-PAASCHE.html?sc=113&category=3415915 No Canadian source at all.
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Jul 12, 2017 01:47
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That's insane, I paid less than $10 for my adapters at a local shop.
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Jul 12, 2017 01:48
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I called some local autobody paint and air tool places and none of them have anything that will fit a paasche brush. Every brand has a totally different size and threading of adapter it's insane. It might almost be easier to get a paasche compressor at this point.
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Jul 12, 2017 01:53
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Baronjutter posted:This will do it but they want nearly $40 for Canadians. Dude I will buy it for you and mail it to you free of charge. PM me your address.
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Jul 12, 2017 01:57
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Baronjutter posted:I called some local autobody paint and air tool places and none of them have anything that will fit a paasche brush. Every brand has a totally different size and threading of adapter it's insane. It might almost be easier to get a paasche compressor at this point. They may not have anything that fits a Paasche brush specifically, but most places should have a fitting the same size. Do you have a KMS tools or anything similar near you? Something that's a notch above a Canadian Tire should have a fairly decent selection of air fittings. If you go online check Maple Airbrush here in Canada, or Coast Airbrush in the US. I was also going to recommend Chicago Airbrush Supply, but they seem to have a disappeared or something? They used to be one of the largest airbrush companies in the US, but all that comes up now are broken links, bad reviews, and a redirect to a place called Geneis Airbrush. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 02:01
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:They may not have anything that fits a Paasche brush specifically, but most places should have a fitting the same size. Do you have a KMS tools or anything similar near you? Something that's a notch above a Canadian Tire should have a fairly decent selection of air fittings. KMS had something really close, I drove for an almost an hour in rush hour traffic and came back empty handed and enraged  I think I'm getting american intervention to help me out now.
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Jul 12, 2017 02:05
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^^Check my edit, Maple might be able to help.
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Jul 12, 2017 02:05
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Baronjutter posted:... johnson-hitler style... Band name found.
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Jul 12, 2017 02:18
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I got something like this since I have an Iwata compressor and Badger airbrushes. $7 for every sort of adaptor. https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Profe...dapter+fittings
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Jul 12, 2017 06:47
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Baronjutter posted:I really want to keep my paints and cleanup 100% water based and as non-toxic as possible as I hate dealing with anything that isn't water wash up. Try Vallejo surface primer. Leaves a very nice matte finish, is acrylic, available in black, gray, white, whatever. P cheap too.
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Jul 12, 2017 07:46
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This is what happens when backwards people are allowed to keep using Imperial as a national measurement standard imo I got an Iwata brush and hose, and the hose fits perfectly on the output for the automotive work-sized compressor I have here in the shed.
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Jul 12, 2017 09:47
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Mister Dog posted:Try Vallejo surface primer. Leaves a very nice matte finish, is acrylic, available in black, gray, white, whatever. P cheap too. Sanding it sucks though.
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Jul 12, 2017 18:26
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I'm looking at shifting to doing a couple tank models from Gundamns, overall how are 1/48 Tamiya kits for a starter?
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Jul 12, 2017 19:59
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TARDISman posted:I'm looking at shifting to doing a couple tank models from Gundamns, overall how are 1/48 Tamiya kits for a starter? I've mainly built 1/48 tamiya WW2 tanks since I started modelling, as I use them for wargaming as well, and I think they are overall good quality and beginner friendly. They will not be as thankful to build as a gundam, but then no military kits come close to Bandai in that regard. Some Tamiya 1/48 kits I've built, you might be able to see that these were my first proper model kits, so some of them are not so great. But they were all fun to build, and were more user-friendly than the Italeri tanks I've tried. Among the tanks, I'd say the Pz 38(t) was probably the easiest to build, and maybe the Tiger or the StuG being the trickier.      
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Jul 12, 2017 |
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Jul 12, 2017 20:20
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lilljonas posted:I've mainly built 1/48 tamiya WW2 tanks since I started modelling, as I use them for wargaming as well, and I think they are overall good quality and beginner friendly. They will not be as thankful to build as a gundam, but then no military kits come close to Bandai in that regard. Thanks for the recommendations! I want to try and push myself to do some more of the DIY stuff like painting and other detailing since I've been spoiled pretty hard by Bandai. Also my gramps drove a Sherman in Europe so I've always had a soft spot for them, in fact my ultimate goal is to look through his memoirs and try to make as close to a replica of his tank as I can.
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Jul 12, 2017 20:33
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