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Thermopyle posted:someone explain vlans, tagging, and what its used for to me like i'm a child. It's like 2 girls, 1 cup but the girls are lans and the cup is a switch
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Jul 7, 2017 20:14
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So I'm in the process of building a house (the foundation walls are about to be poured, most likely next week) and I'm going to have them pull ethernet while they're doing everything else, since this is the easiest time to do it. Only I have no idea what to tell them. I don't even know if I know the right things I need to prepare for. My plan so far: Cat5e or cat6 running to wall jacks in each room. There are 7 main rooms (8 if we count the kitchen). I have an office that I may want to put 2 ports in? I'm thinking maybe also two for the living room (xbox, maybe some kind of other media device). I was thinking all Ubiquiti stuff since it seems pretty good: Ubiquiti Networks US-24-500W UniFi 24-ports Switch Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) Ubiquiti Unifi Cloud Key - Remote Control Device (UC-CK) Ubiquiti UVC-G3-5 Unifi Video Camera (5-Pack) Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) I don't know if any/all of that is good, or overkill. Maybe I just need a 16 port switch? I don't know if their video cameras are any good and I didn't even know they had them until I was browsing their site. 5 cameras is the perfect number though as I have 4 doors I want to put one right by, and then the 5th for maybe inside the garage or another angle outside or something. I want to mount the wireless AP on the ceiling, if that's possible. I know the advice is usually to move the AP around and like map out your house for coverage, but right now I've only got a hole in the ground and by the time I can actually map it out will be too late. Or, is ceiling mounting a dumb idea? So basically that's my story. I know very little about networking so if any/all of this is dumb feel free to call me an idiot.
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Jul 7, 2017 20:32
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myron cope posted:
You can't have too many ports! I did two ports to two walls in each room when I built my house. Not that you'd have a use for all those ports, but it gives you options when you want to place or rearrange your furniture. bobfather posted:A VLAN is just a virtual LAN that can exist alongside your real LAN. The virtual LAN has all the same capabilities of the real LAN, but you can use it to cordon off devices. Does this happen only on the device level? Like, what if the Plex server was running on a server with other services that you don't want to segregate from your "main" network? Thermopyle fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jul 7, 2017 |
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Jul 7, 2017 20:56
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Thermopyle posted:Does this happen only on the device level? Like, what if the Plex server was running on a server with other services that you don't want to segregate from your "main" network? If the Plex server is smart enough to understand VLANs, then you configure the switch port it's on to send VLAN tagged traffic for the appropriate VLANs. Then on the server (I've only done this in *nix so I have no idea how Windows handles it) you configure each VLAN as its own interface along the lines of eth0.vlan1, eth0.vlan2, etc. Naming scheme is probably different but the OS treats them as if you had multiple physical NICs. You'd then want to set up the various services on that server to bind to the appropriate interfaces - plex might listen on all networks but your If the Plex server isn't smart enough to understand VLANs (which seems unlikely) you'd need to put in multiple NICs so that you actually have physically separate interfaces, with one plugged into an untagged port for one VLAN, and one plugged into an untagged port for another VLAN. The reconfiguration of services aspect would be the same.
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Jul 7, 2017 21:11
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Thermopyle posted:someone explain vlans, tagging, and what its used for to me like i'm a child. Pretty much what bob father said above. In addition to that is 802.1q standard VLANs and tagging: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.1Q Every packet on a network has a packet header that contains the source MAC address, the locally connected destination MAC address, protocol signatures and data payload. In addition to that info on VLAN aware switches is a 4byte header that's the VLAN tag value. Switches and VLAN aware hardware will read that header and sort the packets to the correct switch ports or network card / router interfaces. Once you have the traffic sorted into different virtual LANs you can do other fun stuff like secure login portals, or traffic shaping and rate limiting per network.
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Jul 7, 2017 21:13
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Thermopyle posted:Does this happen only on the device level? Like, what if the Plex server was running on a server with other services that you don't want to segregate from your "main" network? VLANs happen at the level just above network port links, so they're not "network port speed aware" but they can be interpreted by client devices like the network card driver in servers, depending on the operating system. If you're using Windows then you pretty much need to be running special vendor-supplied NIC drivers or else you need to be using Windows Server. If your OS supported VLANs on the client/host side, then each individual VLAN would get its own virtual network interface, and programs like Plex could bind themselves to one or more of those virtual interfaces.
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Jul 7, 2017 21:38
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myron cope posted:My plan so far:
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Jul 8, 2017 02:31
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At a minimum, I would have them do all phone with network cable (typical) with doubled up runs to every drop, and network alongside all coax runs as well. Then you've got a potential network drop at every phone and cable port. Then any specific needs for ports on top of that, but that at least gets you plenty of potential drops in all the usual locations.
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Jul 8, 2017 02:40
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CygnusTM posted:Definitely go with Cat6. You may be thinking that gigabit is plenty fast now, but in 5 or 10 years you might be itching for 10 gigabit. 10gig base-T requires professional installation of CAT6A cable to go the max 326 feet, and CAT6 only goes 180ft if professionally installed and tested. If you really want 10gig future capability you should pull fiber
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Jul 8, 2017 06:17
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EconOutlines posted:but most of the Q1-Q2 Amazon reviews from this year with any tech semblance behind them seem to indicate that it's feature limited and seems to have been released too early/beta mode vs the ER. Those people miss the entire point of the USG. It's not meant to compete with the ERL; they've got no reason to cannibalize their own sales. The USG is built to be a no-bullshit, centrally managed and easy to install/manage/maintain device. It does these things remarkably well, at the expense of hiding more esoteric configuration. I run edgerouter lite units at my house and my lab because I need all the turbonerd functionality. My parents have USG/USW/UAP gear for their entire network and it's absolutely the best decision I could have possibly made. Before: "The TV streaming is garbage, there's something wrong with our internet." *spend half a day talking them through checking everything it could possibly be* Now: "The TV streaming is garbage, there's something wrong with our internet." *Log onto controller* "It's not even on the house wireless right now." "Oh yeah, I brought the Myfi inside and must have forgotten to turn it off." H2SO4 fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Jul 8, 2017 |
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Jul 8, 2017 06:33
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CrazyLittle posted:10gig base-T requires professional installation of CAT6A cable to go the max 326 feet, and CAT6 only goes 180ft if professionally installed and tested. If you really want 10gig future capability you should pull fiber In all but the largest homes the runs will likely be under 180ft anyway, and CAT6 is useful (vs. CAT5e) for intermediate Ethernet speeds like 2.5G and 5G. If you want to future proof then install conduits so you can swap to newer cable technology relatively easily. SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jul 8, 2017 |
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Jul 8, 2017 06:39
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SamDabbers posted:In all but the largest homes the runs will likely be under 180ft anyway, and CAT6 is useful (vs. CAT5e) for intermediate Ethernet speeds like 2.5G and 5G. If you want to future proof then install conduits so you can swap to newer cable technology relatively easily. I'm not saying don't use CAT6 - I'm just saying don't get your hopes up for 10gig over copper. There's also HDMI over CAT6 which is pretty useful. Also 2.5g and 5g are unlikely to get widespread adoption, especially considering the switches are ridiculous.
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Jul 8, 2017 09:05
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H2SO4 posted:Words I might just swap that out for my parents when I'm home for Christmas later on this year and take the ER-X. Granted, I'm doing updates for the ER-X remotely and the controller software for the UAP is on a VPS but having everything consolidated IF things go wrong would be nice.
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Jul 8, 2017 17:24
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myron cope posted:Cat5e or cat6 running to wall jacks in each room. There are 7 main rooms (8 if we count the kitchen). I have an office that I may want to put 2 ports in? I'm thinking maybe also two for the living room (xbox, maybe some kind of other media device). I don't know why nobody has said this yet, but don't just run cables; put in conduit. I when I remodeled my house I put 2-3 runs of conduit to different walls in every room, terminating in a central closet. If I ever put in a new (or move an existing) tv, computer, or whatever (maybe wired telephones will make a comeback?) it takes 15 minutes to run a cable. If 100 gigabit fiber ever becomes a thing, I can upgrade super easily. Conduit is quite cheap, though I can't speak to the install cost since I did that part myself (it's pretty easy, really).
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Jul 8, 2017 18:24
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Running just over 100' of coax from my house to my barn, going to get DB gell filled and all that biz, but I'm not sure if I should bother with RG11 or if RG6 is fine? The actual buried portion is right around 100', but from unit to unit it'll be more like 150', if that makes a difference.
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Jul 8, 2017 18:46
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Choadmaster posted:I don't know why nobody has said this yet, but don't just run cables; put in conduit. I when I remodeled my house I put 2-3 runs of conduit to different walls in every room, terminating in a central closet. If I ever put in a new (or move an existing) tv, computer, or whatever (maybe wired telephones will make a comeback?) it takes 15 minutes to run a cable. If 100 gigabit fiber ever becomes a thing, I can upgrade super easily. Conduit is quite cheap, though I can't speak to the install cost since I did that part myself (it's pretty easy, really). It was already mentioned as part of the "future proofing" train but yeah, conduit is fantastic.
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Jul 8, 2017 19:45
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I have a 1500 sqft condo with the cable modem / my office in one corner and my wifes computer is on the opposite corner. Currently the wifi provided by the cable modem is doing a poor job of reaching over there. We also noticed a lot of issues with more devices connected at once (Two phones, computer, tablet, laptops, several game systems, etc). Do I need a new router and access point, or just two access points?
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Jul 8, 2017 20:50
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On the topic of conduits, one would typically pull unterminated cable and then terminate it themselves, correct?
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Jul 8, 2017 20:52
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I've finally given up on my Intel Wireless 7260 PCIE card. I just started using a new USB adapter that is working fine so far. I've had problems with the Intel card from day one. The most annoying of which is that anything that causes the device to go down requires me to reboot the system to get it working again. Disabling it in device manager for example, or it dropping connection for reasons I'm never sure is because of my router or the card itself. This made my current problem even more annoying to deal with: the card losing connection randomly every few hours and requiring a reboot to get it working again. I do not appreciate having to reboot my computer once, maybe twice, a day because the connection randomly dies. I went through a spell of this a year or two ago that got steadily worse and turned out to require a replacement of my modem/router to fix. The router would drop the connection which would cause the wireless card to have a shitfit, crash, and have to reboot my system instead of simply reconnecting to the wireless network. At this point though I can't tolerate it anymore. I tolerated it so long before because I liked that it was a PCI card with a nice antenna, when it actually worked, and didn't take a USB slot. I went ahead an ordered this last week. A USB wireless adapter with a long antenna. I plugged it in right after my 7260 failed an hour ago and it's worked perfectly from that moment. I'm done with Intel wireless adapters at this point.
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Jul 8, 2017 21:26
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bobfather posted:On the topic of conduits, one would typically pull unterminated cable and then terminate it themselves, correct? Yes, for Cat5/6/etc, fiber, and coax. Although, fiber termination gear can be pricy to do it right, but I have done some quick and dirty terminations with a pocket knife and Bic lighter.
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Jul 9, 2017 00:10
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Womyn Capote posted:I have a 1500 sqft condo with the cable modem / my office in one corner and my wifes computer is on the opposite corner. Currently the wifi provided by the cable modem is doing a poor job of reaching over there. We also noticed a lot of issues with more devices connected at once (Two phones, computer, tablet, laptops, several game systems, etc). Do I need a new router and access point, or just two access points? It's hard to say without more details but it sounds like a new WAP would help.
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Jul 9, 2017 00:19
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Yes, for Cat5/6/etc, fiber, and coax. The only really pricey tool these days is the fiber cleaver. You can get single mode fiber SC plugs off of ebay for under $1 each. *fake edit* holy poo poo you can get a knockoff cleaver plus all the extra tools for $130 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015RL43WW
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Jul 9, 2017 05:29
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So I went ahead and got cable internet through Spectrum. When I called to set up the account, I was told that I could rent an ARRIS SB6183 modem from them, I just had to request that specific model. But when I picked up the self-installation kit, they gave me a Ubee DDW36C modem/router and sent me on my way. I called tech support, and they said I could swap the Ubee out for the ARRIS, which I plan to do. But I just wanted to ask here first, I should be swapping the Ubee for the ARRIS, correct? The Ubee isn't somehow a much better modem, is it? I've never heard of that brand before.
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Jul 10, 2017 20:39
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1. Integrated modem/routers are almost exclusively dogshit. 2. Seriously consider just buying your own modem, it'll pay for itself long term.
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Jul 10, 2017 20:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:Seriously consider just buying your own modem, it'll pay for itself long term. I was going to buy an SB6190 until I read about its defective chipset, and decided to get a 6183 instead. Spectrum only charges for their router rentals (not their modems), and the 6183 is one of the models they offer. I can always buy my own modem later, but I'm trying to keep moving-in costs down for now. literally this big fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jul 10, 2017 |
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Jul 10, 2017 20:52
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I have Fios coming to install internet tomorrow because I'm cutting the cord. I have a machine running pfsense as my router/firewall. I'm assuming the tech can just connect me straight to the ONT in the closet?
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Jul 10, 2017 20:53
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literally this big posted:I was going to buy an SB6190 until I read about its defective chipset, and decided to get a 6183 instead. Spectrum only charges for their router rentals (not their modems), and the 6183 is one of the models they offer. I can always buy my own modem later, but I'm trying to keep over-in costs down for now. poo poo, if they'll rent you a 6183 for free, then do that. I'm used to providers that charge for rentals of either.
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Jul 10, 2017 21:02
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Matt Zerella posted:I have Fios coming to install internet tomorrow because I'm cutting the cord. I have a machine running pfsense as my router/firewall. I'm assuming the tech can just connect me straight to the ONT in the closet? I don't believe they'll install it that way, but I believe there are threads on DSLReports about eliminating their router.
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Jul 10, 2017 21:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:poo poo, if they'll rent you a 6183 for free, then do that. I'm used to providers that charge for rentals of either. Charter is different from other providers. They seem to be pretty good...no enforced usage caps, free modems. On the other hand their max upload package is 5mbps. :/
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Jul 10, 2017 21:28
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My 'AM JRU10C035' from Comcast seems to have fallen off the back of a truck somewhere. Never charged for a rental since I moved in 3 years ago. 
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Jul 10, 2017 21:36
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literally this big posted:So I went ahead and got cable internet through Spectrum. When I called to set up the account, I was told that I could rent an ARRIS SB6183 modem from them, I just had to request that specific model. But when I picked up the self-installation kit, they gave me a Ubee DDW36C modem/router and sent me on my way. I called tech support, and they said I could swap the Ubee out for the ARRIS, which I plan to do. Does anyone have any idea how to track down and pick an ARRIS SB6183 from Spectrum? When I first called about setting up an account, I was told I could request a Motorola modem. When I picked up the self-install kit, they gave me a Ubee modem. When I called back, they forwarded me to tech support, who said that yes, I should be able to request a specific modem, and that I could exchange my Ubee for a Motorola. They made a note on my account that I would be exchanging my modem for a 6183. I just went in to a local store, and they told me they only had Ubee modems in stock, and that they did not know what would be coming in their next shipment. They assured me that yes, I can pick up a 6183 from a Spectrum store, but that there's no way of knowing what any store actually has. So I can't call a store to check their stock, because stores don't have numbers for customers to call. Stores can't call other stores to check stock/direct customers, because each store is "run and operated independently," and they are unable to communicate each other. Call center/tech support cannot check stock/direct customers, because it's just not a capability they have. At this point, my only option is to drive out to every single location around me until I find one that has a Motorola I can exchange for. I cannot call ahead to see what they have in stock, cannot call back to see if they got a Motorola in a recent shipment, and must physically bring my current modem around with me in the hopes they have one I can exchange for on the spot. Is there some way around this absurdity?
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Jul 10, 2017 22:32
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literally this big posted:Does anyone have any idea how to track down and pick an ARRIS SB6183 from Spectrum? They are giving you bullshit to try and keep you on their junky modem. No self respecting large company that sells/leases hardware to clients does so without some sort of central inventory control system . Each store certainly does have a public phone number, even if its only a number for a desk somewhere in the back, and they can call each other on said numbers. They just don't want to give the number to you or help you with what you want to do. Its possible that their internal process for handing out Motorola modems is not well documented internally on purpose (so the front line lackeys you are speaking to are innocent here). Spectrum may feel that encouraging people to use their own routers (by making non router modems easy to get) creates tech support headaches for them or maybe it prevents them from stopping people from running their own web/vpn servers or whatever via router limitations. Or maybe they enforce their own DNS servers on their router/modem combo devices and they don't want to you to be easily able to use 3rd party DNS. Or maybe their inventory control system is terrible and they don't want to spend the effort to keep more than one type of modem stocked in the stores. So the Motorola modems exist on the policy docs but are never actually ordered. There are many possible reasons ranging from mildly malicious to just downright stupid/incompetent. I would just by a proper modem and be done with it. I have an SB6141 with Spectrum (formally Time Warner Cable) and haven't had any issues with it. Antillie fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jul 11, 2017 |
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Jul 11, 2017 01:48
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Thermopyle posted:Charter is different from other providers. They seem to be pretty good...no enforced usage caps, free modems. On the other hand their max upload package is 5mbps. :/ Depends on the area - former TWC "Maxx" areas had up to 300/20.
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Jul 11, 2017 03:44
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astral posted:Depends on the area - former TWC "Maxx" areas had up to 300/20. Well yeah, TWC areas are Charter now.
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Jul 11, 2017 21:41
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astral posted:Depends on the area - former TWC "Maxx" areas had up to 300/20. I have Spectrum now aka Charterwarner Cable and my speed is 300/20 - Though they seem to only offer 2 speed levels as opposed to the 4 TWC had previously. Edit: On another note am I crazy for wanting to drop ~900 bucks on a Unifi mesh network setup? I am likely to be moving to a 4000sqft house with 3 floors. The plan is to have modem, USG, Cloudkey, Switch in a central location as all rooms are wired for ethernet already. and then place 1 AP-AC Pro on each floor for rock solid wifi throughout. I have 3 devices that are wired, but between the wife and kids there are like 30 wifi devices and my WRT1900AC blows. Speed constantly degrades over time until the wifi seems to disconnect periodically. It does however have good signal everywhere, it's just stability is brutal. thebushcommander fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jul 13, 2017 |
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Jul 13, 2017 18:59
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Was browing through Newegg's selection of Thin-ITX boards (curious about doing a full passive build) and I ran into this... thing.    If that's not enough NICs for you, you can get 4 more on a daughterboard.
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Jul 13, 2017 19:28
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Are they switched or routable?
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Jul 13, 2017 19:40
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http://www.jetwaycomputer.com/NF592.html Looks to be 8 full ports - 8 * Intel Gigabit LAN (7 * i211-AT, 1 * i219-LM supporting iAMT 11.0 & vPRO) Good for a nice little home router/firewall box.
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Jul 13, 2017 20:02
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thebushcommander posted:Edit: On another note am I crazy for wanting to drop ~900 bucks on a Unifi mesh network setup? I am likely to be moving to a 4000sqft house with 3 floors. The plan is to have modem, USG, Cloudkey, Switch in a central location as all rooms are wired for ethernet already. and then place 1 AP-AC Pro on each floor for rock solid wifi throughout. I have 3 devices that are wired, but between the wife and kids there are like 30 wifi devices and my WRT1900AC blows. Speed constantly degrades over time until the wifi seems to disconnect periodically. It does however have good signal everywhere, it's just stability is brutal. If you're going to have ethernet cables run to everywhere you want to put an access point, there's no reason to go mesh. Also, the Cloudkey isn't needed unless you're making a ton of changes on your equipment, or are running an active guest portal on your wifi. You can use the Unifi Controller software on one of your PCs to do the initial configuration and occasional changes without having to have the controller running 24/7. Once configured, all the other Unifi devices will run just fine without access to the controller.
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Jul 13, 2017 20:18
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It is excellent for traffic monitoring and having 'always-on' access to your system. I run the controller software on a VPS since I cheaped out on the CloudKey. If its worth $80 to you, go for it.
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Jul 13, 2017 23:42
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