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To be fair, it's a VW with 220k. One with an owner that gives zero fucks so long as it still moves under its own power.
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Jul 14, 2017 06:08
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On this week's episode of This Old Starlet: Should I not go from 165/70/13" tyres up to 175/70/13's on my 96 Starlet? Local wrecker had two matching sets of the latter*, and just a few random orphans of the 165s. Car manual says to leave it stock, what I found Googling suggested "I dunno, maybe?". I'm not crazy about cheaping out on tyres, but this is a beater and underemployment means funds are tight; wrecker set would be $80 vs the $270 I was quoted for new, though that does include mounting and balancing. The ones at the wrecker were on steelies so I think I should be OK there, can have work do balancing/alignment later (see below). Also, now that I've changed the rear struts I can hear how bad the front wheel bearings are. Bearings are $100 for both sides, I can probably get it done cheap/free at work (we have an automotive program), though I dunno how long the wait is. I am thinking if you guys say the 175s are a no-go, order the bearings and see how long the queue is to have the kids at work put them in, then decide on what to do as far as tyres if they don't find any eminent big dollar repairs looming. Does that make sense? *In the picture, they showed a nice rack with everything labeled. The reality was spending the better part of two hours climing and digging through Tyre Mountin in the corner of the warehouse. Not really complaining, it was a good workout and the Nepalese dudes working nearby were friendly 
Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 06:14
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Ethics_Gradient posted:On this week's episode of This Old Starlet: The answer is in the question.
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Jul 14, 2017 17:37
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165 to 175 when the other numbers are the same is pretty minor. From https://tiresize.com/calculator/ Unless your current tires are 0.2" away from rubbing on something it's not going to hurt anything.
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Jul 14, 2017 21:22
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Seriously though the real answer here is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UO-8jaJb0I&t=80s Edit: I also really like this guy's solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYpvgKyGm40 Check out those wheel arches. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 14, 2017 |
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Jul 14, 2017 21:55
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I have a 1998 honda accord, 4 cylinder engine. The shifter started acting funny some kind ago; I'd have to wiggle it around to get it to shift out of park. A little while back, the shifter knob came off in my hand and I replaced it shittily; the problem got worse. I would have to yank the shifter knob hard to get it out of park, and then i started having to do the same thing to get it into park. Then the shifter knob came off in my hand again, but also the steering wheel won't lock anymore. I thought that I needed to replace the neutral safety switch as well as the shifter knob. To do this, I had to put the car in neutral. So I disengaged the shift lock manually. Well, now the key is stuck in the ignition for some reason and won't come out. I have scoured the internet, watched every single youtube video, I have tried every loving thing and I am at the point of simply selling the car to a junkyard for a couple hundred bucks because I am totally certain it will never drive again because the key is stuck in the ignition. The car runs fine other than all this but I cannot remember a time in my life when I have felt more frustrated than this. I just don't know what to do anymore. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
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Jul 14, 2017 22:23
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empty whippet box posted:I have a 1998 honda accord, 4 cylinder engine. The shifter started acting funny some kind ago; I'd have to wiggle it around to get it to shift out of park. A little while back, the shifter knob came off in my hand and I replaced it shittily; the problem got worse. I would have to yank the shifter knob hard to get it out of park, and then i started having to do the same thing to get it into park. Then the shifter knob came off in my hand again, but also the steering wheel won't lock anymore. I thought that I needed to replace the neutral safety switch as well as the shifter knob. To do this, I had to put the car in neutral. So I disengaged the shift lock manually. Don't some cars require that the transmission be in park before they'll let go of the key? Probably related to whatever shift linkage binding problem you've already got.
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Jul 14, 2017 22:33
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EightBit posted:That's not "some electrical issues", that's fully gremlin-laden madness. Well, he did say "reliable for a volkswagen".
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Jul 14, 2017 23:50
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Should I bother with antique car insurance if I'm going to drive to work once in a while? I don't want to screw myself, especially if I dump a bunch of money into my car. I have GEICO and was going to add my '72 beetle to my policy but now sure which route I should go.
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Jul 15, 2017 01:52
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Last I checked, Hagerty had actually defined a maximum number of drives to work per year - like 20 times? They require proof of insurance on a daily driver when you first sign up.
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Jul 15, 2017 02:03
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Adding my 72 beetle to geico was such a pita that I switched to progressive. You should switch carriers every few uears anyway. Just don't have a gap in coverage. Heck, now that I have a garage, I may switch to hagerty for the bus.
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Jul 15, 2017 03:16
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Someone hit the passenger side view mirror on my 2008 Prius. According to YouTube, it's straightforward enough to replace. Am I correct in assuming I won't be able to get a GENUINE OEM replacement unless I pay out the rear end at a Toyota dealership and that I should just get a 3rd party replacement online?
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Jul 15, 2017 09:00
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Josh Lyman posted:Am I correct in assuming I won't be able to get a GENUINE OEM replacement unless I pay out the rear end at a Toyota dealership and that I should just get a 3rd party replacement online? You could get one off a wreck.
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Jul 15, 2017 09:04
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Platystemon posted:You could get one off a wreck. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 09:16
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Josh Lyman posted:That makes sense. I still have the plastic cover on the backside that matches my paint so color isn't an issue. If paint color doesn't matter, that opens up your options significantly. Check car-part.com, that's a website that indexes a bunch of full-service junkyards (you call them and tell them what part you want, they pull it off their yard car, you drop by to pick it up) and has prices and everything. Probably easier and cheaper than the ebay route, but I guess you can look there too. I doubt there are really any gen2 priuses in the junkyards yet.
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Jul 15, 2017 11:36
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0toShifty posted:Get a Scangauge-II or an Ultragauge - you can monitor all of that via the OBD port - lots of PIDs are available like battery temperature, inverter temperature, and my favorite - the current to/from the battery. Cool, I'll have to take a look at that! (I'd rather use that existing port than do something like hacking into the CANBUS.) Bolt question: I am getting a trailer hitch installed on my vehicle - it's a very simple installation since the vehicle already has threaded bolt holes for adding a hitch. However, I'm in an area where during the winter we use a LOT of corrosive salt. I am concerned that this will cause the bolts to rust in place. Is there something I can cover the threads with that will protect them over time (prevent them from rusting in place) while not permanently bonding them in place either? EDIT: I think what I'm looking for is "Loctite Blue" compound. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 11:41 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 11:38
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No, what you really want is anti-seize.
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Jul 15, 2017 11:45
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Yesterday I tried to install an ebay aftermarket remote central locking system on my beater 6n polo. I wired everything up according the instructions combined with some help from google, and it doesn't work properly. When the car is locked, it works perfectly - press the lock button on the fobs and the unit clicks and attempts to lock the car, press the unlock button and the car unlocks. And that's as far as it goes - once the car is unlocked, it all stops working, pressing buttons doesn't elicit any response from the CL module or from the pump. Relock the car manually, and everything works again until unlocked. Does this sound like I hosed up to you guys, or is the module faulty? To my understanding, there is a "locked state" relay and an "unlocked state" relay in the unit, is it possible the unlocked one is just broken? I haven't really hosed around much with electrical stuff in the past. I've shamelessly stolen this picture from the clubpolo forums, I have the same setup on mine: 
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Jul 15, 2017 12:15
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Raluek posted:If paint color doesn't matter, that opens up your options significantly. Check car-part.com, that's a website that indexes a bunch of full-service junkyards (you call them and tell them what part you want, they pull it off their yard car, you drop by to pick it up) and has prices and everything. Probably easier and cheaper than the ebay route, but I guess you can look there too. I doubt there are really any gen2 priuses in the junkyards yet. There's a self-service junkyard open today that has a 2008 Prius, but it's next door to and part of one of the full service junkyards, so 1) Would the self-service junkyard have any idea of what parts have been pulled from that Prius? 2) Is it likely that they themselves pulled the mirror and are selling it in their full service department? It's a 30 minute drive each way so I'd rather save myself the goose chase.
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Jul 15, 2017 12:32
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The self service yards here that I've been to have no idea what's left on what vehicle.
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Jul 15, 2017 14:42
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Grakkus posted:Yesterday I tried to install an ebay aftermarket remote central locking system on my beater 6n polo. I wired everything up according the instructions combined with some help from google, and it doesn't work properly. When the car is locked, it works perfectly - press the lock button on the fobs and the unit clicks and attempts to lock the car, press the unlock button and the car unlocks. And that's as far as it goes - once the car is unlocked, it all stops working, pressing buttons doesn't elicit any response from the CL module or from the pump. Relock the car manually, and everything works again until unlocked. The only way to be sure is to test the lock function from the module with a multimeter.
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Jul 15, 2017 15:25
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2007 Saturn VUE Hybrid About once per week (seemingly randomly), it won't start. The lights and everything on the dashboard come on and everything, but nothing from the engine. Jumping the battery has no effect. About 20 minutes later, it will start again and runs just fine. The security light has also been sometimes coming on sometimes during normal operation. I dropped it off at my mechanic's a few days ago and it has started up no-issue for him every day so he can't diagnose it. A few years ago this happened and the dealership replaced the Body Control Module (I think). Does it sound like this is what's failing again? Can it just be changed out or do they need to be programmed?
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Jul 15, 2017 16:13
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The parking brake mechanism in one of my rear calipers (09 Corolla) is sticking the cable moves fine. I just replaced the rear pads and rotors which is a piss off, I don't want to have to replace the pads again if possible. It did the same thing, but a bit worse, about a year ago, but at the time I didn't care, because the pads and rotors were old and close to being lovely. I've been looking at Rock Auto for calipers. They're all reman calipers, which is fine, I just want to get the best one that I can get. I've been leaning towards the Raybestos calipers that are listed under the "Premium (OE Quality + Added Features)" since they come with pads, which would match the pads that I just put on there. The reason being, is that if this keeps happening, before I have a chance to change out the caliper, I won't have to get a whole new set of pads, just to change one side. I'd assume that the pads themselves might be glazed, or worn a lot more than the other (passenger) side. I'm willing to entertain suggestions as to what other reman caliper brands are good. My Choices are: A-1 Cardone Raybestos Wagner Beck/Arnley Centric AC Delco. Prices range from about 70 bucks to 140 ish after the core rebate. Since we're not talking about thousands of dollars, I don't really give a poo poo if everyone tells me to buy the expensive as gently caress ones.
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Jul 15, 2017 16:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Here's your answer. It's not uncommon for cars designed before LED bulbs were a thing to cheat a bit on their electrical systems. There's some other circuit leaking to ground through your dome light and buzzer. Normally this wouldn't be an issue with an incandescent bulb in the dome light, since it adds a lot of resistance to the circuit. Unfortunately, a resistor didn't work. I put a 1K pot in there to test and even at the full 1K, the light was just dimmer and the alarm was quieter. On a complete hail mary, I put a 50V 1A diode in there instead and it did the trick. I wasn't really expecting it to work, but I'm certainly not complaining!
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Jul 15, 2017 17:50
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Harveygod posted:2007 Saturn VUE Hybrid Ignition switch for sure - that's the most common way 00+ GM ignition switches fail. It's basically 2 switches in one - the tip of the key turns a second switch (they use this instead of a chip in the key on a lot of models). When that switch gets gummed up, you get no-starts that take ~10-30 minutes to resolve on their own, and the security light comes on at random. wesleywillis posted:They're all reman calipers, which is fine, I just want to get the best one that I can get. I've been leaning towards the Raybestos calipers that are listed under the "Premium (OE Quality + Added Features)" I'd avoid A-1 Cardone (had too many issues with their stuff, personally), the rest should be fine. Centric, Raybestos, and Wagner specialize in brakes. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 19:08
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Ignition switch for sure - that's the most common way 00+ GM ignition switches fail. I have a good locksmith who does car ignition stuff. He should be able to change it. Thanks!
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Jul 15, 2017 19:44
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You don't need a locksmith for that - the switch attaches to the back of the lock.
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Jul 15, 2017 19:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You don't need a locksmith for that - the switch attaches to the back of the lock. I read "switch" and thought of the whole cylinder. Is it this thing?  e:fixed url Harveygod fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 19:51
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Yup. It doesn't help that GM runs 5 volts through the switch instead of 12.. 5 volts can't burn through any buildup on the contacts, at least not the way 12 volts could.
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Jul 15, 2017 20:11
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SkunkDuster posted:Unfortunately, a resistor didn't work. I put a 1K pot in there to test and even at the full 1K, the light was just dimmer and the alarm was quieter. On a complete hail mary, I put a 50V 1A diode in there instead and it did the trick. I wasn't really expecting it to work, but I'm certainly not complaining! That is honestly probably a much better solution than the resistor anyway.
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Jul 15, 2017 20:22
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yup. Thanks! Any reprogramming/rekeying necessary or just drop-in and go? I've seen the "30 minute relearn" instructions around the webs.
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Jul 15, 2017 20:35
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Follow-up: the self-service junkyard had a 2008 Prius so I was super excited but it was mostly stripped. They also had a 2005 Prius which did have the passenger side mirror for $30. It wasn't in great shape so I stopped by 2 other junkyards, but even though their inventory showed in stock, they couldn't find them, so I ended up getting the $30 one. Installation went okay, but when trying to close up the door panel, I became convinced it was misaligned because the inside window trim wasn't parallel for the entire length. It took me too long to look over to the driver's side and see it's intentional, so by the time I finished with the panel, I had broken 2 or 3 plastic clips. Fortunately, it's plenty secure. The bigger problem is that the mirror glass vibrates even on smooth pavement while the housing does not. I tried removing the glass to see what was loose, but apparently the 2005 mirror doesn't come off the same way as in all the Youtube videos. I have 30 days to return the mirror for store credit so I guess I'll just have to keep refreshing their inventory every day to see if they get in another Prius. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 20:49
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Both of the keyfobs for my 2003 mazda protege5 are dead. How much of a giant pain in the rear end will it be to reprogram them both, given I don't have one still working to program the other with?
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Jul 15, 2017 20:52
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Started the beater (05 Vibe) today and it was much loud than usual. Crawled around under it and the exhaust is broken before the muffler connection. Looked up some diagrams and its part of the resonator pipe, looks like this: Here's the whole system, it's the middle piece, 281-849  The pipe is broken at that flange at the back, right at the joint. Is this something an exhaust shop could repair, or should I order the replacement? I can get it for $70ish. The rest of the exhaust is in really good shape, I think the OE pipe is stainless. opengl fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 21:49
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Josh Lyman posted:Follow-up: the self-service junkyard had a 2008 Prius so I was super excited but it was mostly stripped. They also had a 2005 Prius which did have the passenger side mirror for $30. It wasn't in great shape so I stopped by 2 other junkyards, but even though their inventory showed in stock, they couldn't find them, so I ended up getting the $30 one. Sounds like you did good. If the glass wobbles, there's probably something broken or not seated right inside the mirror, so it's too bad it doesn't come apart like you'd expect. If it's like the honda I did once, it might need more force than you'd normally be comfortable putting on a piece of glass. Still, you might call the full service places when they open during the week, see if they have a less busted option.
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Jul 15, 2017 21:52
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opengl128 posted:Started the beater (05 Vibe) today and it was much loud than usual. Crawled around under it and the exhaust is broken before the muffler connection. Looked up some diagrams and its part of the resonator pipe, looks like this: If it's just split or a broken weld or something, yeah just have an exhaust shop weld it back together. If it's all rusted out, it's probably better to replace. But if you think it's stainless, I assume it's not. While you're under there, make sure all the rubber hangers are doing the right thing, since there's a chance that it broke from not being supported right and putting extra pressure at that joint.
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Jul 15, 2017 21:55
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Yeah it's a pretty clean split straight around the pipe. Really no rot whatsoever. I did check all the hangers and everything else looks good. Read something about it being stainless online, but who knows what that dude was talking about. e: here's an actual picture of the split double edit: looking at the picture I know why it split. last year that heat shield you see behind it came loose and was banging on the exhaust for a while until I zip tied it back out of the way. must have weakened the joint.  opengl fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 21:57
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opengl128 posted:Yeah it's a pretty clean split straight around the pipe. Really no rot whatsoever. Should be a pretty straightforward and cheap fix at an exhaust shop, then. I think I paid like $20 to have more changed than that. E: Doesn't look anything like stainless to me. Which is probably good, because mild steel is easier to weld. If the brown all in that connection is just for show, it looks pretty doable. Looks like it just broke along the weld, not from any material really being missing. One way to find out for sure, though! Raluek fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 15, 2017 |
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Jul 15, 2017 22:03
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That pipe is definitely not stainless with that level of rust.
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Jul 15, 2017 22:06
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Got it, thanks all. Will swing by the local exhaust shop after work Monday.
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Jul 15, 2017 22:07
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