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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I don't know if there's a thread specifically dedicated to grills, but I figured this may be the best closest place for it: Walmart has the Weber Genesis II E-210 on clearance for $299, which is a fantastic deal if you're ok with a 2 burner grill. While supplies last, if your local store has any stock. Check here: http://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=21928093
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Jul 14, 2017 01:59
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Falco posted:Buy a Weber off of Craigslist. This is the right answer. Any new grill at $300 is going to be a 2-year grill at the most. Edit: Holy crap look at that post above this one. That's a hell of a deal.
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Jul 14, 2017 17:25
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Alternatively, I bought a stainless propane grill for $150 from Walmart or somewhere years ago and it's fine. The cover blew away during a wind storm in the last year or two and I haven't replaced it, either. We use it a fair amount in the summer, and we're in Michigan and it hasn't rusted.
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Jul 14, 2017 17:41
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Larrymer posted:Alternatively, I bought a stainless propane grill for $150 from Walmart or somewhere years ago and it's fine. The cover blew away during a wind storm in the last year or two and I haven't replaced it, either. We use it a fair amount in the summer, and we're in Michigan and it hasn't rusted. Similar thing here. I think the biggest trick is to get a cover and always keep it covered when not in use. Grills are pretty much disposable no matter how much money you blow on it. Eventually, the burners don't work right and replacing them is going to run you at least $50. At that point, the grill is usually all caked up with dried grease and crap that is a pain to clean. Additionally, at least for grills that live outside in snow latitudes, the bottom supports/wheels/tank holder usually starts to rust out in a few years. With ok-ish grills frequently going on sale at HD/Walmart for around $150, I really don't see the point in spending $500+ for a "nice" one. Buy the $150 model, use it for 3-4 years, and throw it out. For example, I got this model last year for $130 on sale (assembled by HD) and it's still running strong/looks new this season: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-4-Burner-Open-Cart-LP-Gas-Grill-in-Black-DGF493BNP/206278564
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Jul 14, 2017 18:46
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Like the other guy said, getting an angle grinder and a buzzbox to make a grill is a worthy investment. I mean, it's the tools thread 
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Jul 14, 2017 21:00
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I don't know if there's a thread specifically dedicated to grills, but I figured this may be the best closest place for it: You might try the smoking meats thread. Somebody there might have advice as well if the full range of "buy something cheap"to "under $300 is a shitpile" isn't enough for you. It's mostly smokers chat but a good catch all for bbq chat.https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3460953
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Jul 14, 2017 21:23
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Alternately, this Weber charcoal grill will feed everyone you need, and is often on sale for $50 off depending on the vendor. If you keep it covered and don't let ashes sit in it, it's basically indestructible. I have this slightly fancier version which I got on sale for $300, and while the gas-assist lighter is great, the surface may be too small for you if you use dual-zone techniques often. I'm a charcoal apologist, though. I love high heat and I love the little bit of smoke flavor you get.
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Jul 15, 2017 06:51
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Tricky Ed posted:I'm a charcoal apologist, though. I love high heat and I love the little bit of smoke flavor you get. Is it actually controversial to say that charcoal is the best? I only use propane because I'm a lazy SOB, and I don't have an easy place to dump ashes. If I could, every meat/veggie I eat would be cooked over a charcoal fire.
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Jul 15, 2017 13:57
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B-Nasty posted:Is it actually controversial to say that charcoal is the best? I think it's controversial to say the opposite. But most people just don't want to deal with it. I like having both - especially for lots of people. The propane one ends up being the warming station/overflow.
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Jul 15, 2017 14:27
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Yeah, if you don't mind the extra time involved with Charcoal, just get the basic 20whatever inch kettle. Mine was $80, I treat it like poo poo and its still plugging away five plus years later. You can grill for gobs of people or smoke all the usual stuff - brisket, shoulder, duck, chicken.
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Jul 15, 2017 23:30
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B-Nasty posted:Similar thing here. I think the biggest trick is to get a cover and always keep it covered when not in use.
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Jul 16, 2017 03:17
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Hey guys, so i managed to walk out of the casino with $300, and was thinking about getting a planer. I can manage resawing boards with my table saw and a nice ripping blade, but I'm having trouble getting them square on all sides. Is the $250 WEN worth anything so should I wait for the $400 DeWalt to go on sale?
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Jul 16, 2017 03:35
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Super Waffle posted:Hey guys, so i managed to walk out of the casino with $300, and was thinking about getting a planer. I can manage resawing boards with my table saw and a nice ripping blade, but I'm having trouble getting them square on all sides. Is the $250 WEN worth anything so should I wait for the $400 DeWalt to go on sale? If you want something that squares up your lumber, you need a joiner. If you're dealing with stuff you can resaw on a typical table saw, look for a good used 6" or 8" joiner.
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Jul 16, 2017 16:57
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Mr. Mambold posted:If you want something that squares up your lumber, you need a joiner. If you're dealing with stuff you can resaw on a typical table saw, look for a good used 6" or 8" joiner. I have a 6" joiner, so between that and the table saw I can get 3 sides flat and square, my problem is always the other face of the board. Until now I've been doing a skimming pass on the bad face, but that has its limitations with my blade height and is also pretty nerve wracking when I'm dealing with thinner boards. That'll get me close but still leaves an inconsistent board.
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Jul 16, 2017 17:57
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Super Waffle posted:I have a 6" joiner, so between that and the table saw I can get 3 sides flat and square, my problem is always the other face of the board. Until now I've been doing a skimming pass on the bad face, but that has its limitations with my blade height and is also pretty nerve wracking when I'm dealing with thinner boards. That'll get me close but still leaves an inconsistent board. Ok, sure, I'd look at the DeWalt then, or craigslist shop if you're feeling adventurous.
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Jul 16, 2017 18:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:If you want something that squares up your lumber, you need a joiner. Super Waffle posted:I have a 6" joiner, jointer
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Jul 16, 2017 19:52
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FCKGW posted:Walmart has the Weber Genesis II E-210 on clearance for $299, which is a fantastic deal if you're ok with a 2 burner grill. While supplies last, if your local store has any stock. Check here: http://brickseek.com/walmart-inventory-checker/?sku=21928093 Thank you for this! This is what I ended up doing. I think it may turn out to be too small eventually, but if it does then I'll just sell it on craigs list for close to the $300 I paid and just get the 3-burner.
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Jul 16, 2017 23:44
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Sagebrush posted:jointer This used to confuse the hell out of me before I figured out what people meant and that they weren't using biscuit joiners 
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Jul 17, 2017 03:53
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Speaking of attaching wood to other wood; is it better to cut a mortise with a skinny little bit where you make multiple passes or with a big fat bit where you do as few passes as possible?
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Jul 17, 2017 07:15
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DreadLlama posted:Speaking of attaching wood to other wood; is it better to cut a mortise with a skinny little bit where you make multiple passes or with a big fat bit where you do as few passes as possible? Assuming your tenon is properly cut (and assuming it's not is kind of useless) using an accurately sized bit in a single pass will allow you to get a very tight fit. Doing multiple passes increases the number of places you can make measurement errors; a single pass means you just have to worry about placement accuracy (since width will be correct regardless). You may still want to do multiple passes in DEPTH, however, depending on the material/router.
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Jul 17, 2017 13:54
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I'm looking for an air compressor for home use. I'll likely use it for oddjobs like blowing dust off of things, pumping up car/bike tires, and I could see my self using it for more serious things in the future like basic nailing (not full framing or anything) and maybe rotary tools like angle grinders. Right away I can't see myself using it for any continuous heavy duty work. It's gotta be electrically powered, and my garage is tiny so small size is a premium. Other than that I don't have any hard requirements although quieter is better. I'm also at the point in life where I'd rather pay more now for quality tools than have to replace them later, and a compressor is something that will be useful forever. Is $200 a reasonable starting point? Any particular models in mind? I'd like to buy something local (big box store, etc.) so I can use it this week but if the dream option is only available online I'm not opposed to mailing.
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Jul 18, 2017 02:28
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Is $200 a reasonable starting point? Any particular models in mind? I'd like to buy something local (big box store, etc.) so I can use it this week but if the dream option is only available online I'm not opposed to mailing. The California Air Tools 5510SE comes up a bunch, and for good reason. Most compressors are so loud that you need hearing protection to be in the same room. The CA one is so quiet you won't mind actually using it. It's a good all around choice, but it's not super portable. For something like nailing, the pancakes are nice to just grab and go.
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Jul 18, 2017 03:03
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B-Nasty posted:The California Air Tools 5510SE comes up a bunch, and for good reason. Most compressors are so loud that you need hearing protection to be in the same room. The CA one is so quiet you won't mind actually using it. I came across that in my own searching too, good to hear it is as advertised. Is there a big difference in the steel vs aluminum tank other than rust prevention?
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Jul 18, 2017 03:32
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Hubis posted:Assuming your tenon is properly cut (and assuming it's not is kind of useless) using an accurately sized bit in a single pass will allow you to get a very tight fit. Doing multiple passes increases the number of places you can make measurement errors; a single pass means you just have to worry about placement accuracy (since width will be correct regardless). Thank you for the information. Can I get your opinion on this? https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Cutting-Double-Cleaning-Bottom/dp/B01IYJQ4S0/ref=pd_cp_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AW80P22HQB6CJPYZ1RVW  Is this suited for plunge cutting? If so, how many amps should I look for to cut pine? My current router is the Black & Decker Matrix drill attachment; I am thinking of upgrading.
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Jul 18, 2017 05:43
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I came across that in my own searching too, good to hear it is as advertised. Is there a big difference in the steel vs aluminum tank other than rust prevention? The aluminum is also about 10 pounds lighter. I've never really concerned myself with rust-out of tanks. Assuming you drain it regularly and aren't storing it outside or something, I'd wager the mechanical components are going to fail long before the tank wall rusts through.
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Jul 18, 2017 14:31
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Aluminum pressure vessels unnerve me, but not enough to stop me from strapping one filled with 10 litres of air at 200 bar to my back and jumping in the water or riding one 10 km into the sky. What I’m saying is that the only reason not to go with aluminum is the cost.
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Jul 18, 2017 14:40
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DreadLlama posted:Thank you for the information. Can I get your opinion on this? https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Cutting-Double-Cleaning-Bottom/dp/B01IYJQ4S0/ref=pd_cp_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AW80P22HQB6CJPYZ1RVW That's a mighty big mortice you've got there. The description on that says it's for bottom cleaning. I don't think it would do super great in a plunge cut since there's not a lot of geometry there for chip removal. You'll cut some sawdust and it's going to collect in the hole and have nowhere to go. At last that's what I would assume given its shape. For plunge cutting with a router look into spiral bits. Not sure if they come in that enormous of a size though.
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Jul 18, 2017 15:12
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DreadLlama posted:Thank you for the information. Can I get your opinion on this? https://www.amazon.ca/uxcell-Cutting-Double-Cleaning-Bottom/dp/B01IYJQ4S0/ref=pd_cp_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AW80P22HQB6CJPYZ1RVW You can probably find better expert advice than I could give in the woodworking thread, but: 1) I think that bit might work, but it's more designed for doing shallow planeing passes to clean up a surface. For deep plunge cuts you probably want a spiral upcut bit of some sort. Here's a good explanation: https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/spiral-router-bits-vs-straight-router-bits 2) was that bit you linked just a random example? 2" diameter is a really big mortise! The rule of thumb (I believe) is 1/2-2/3 the width of the tenon wood, so if you were joining a 3/4" board you would want your tenon (and thus mortise) to be 3/8" - 1/2" thick, depending on the wood and context. 3) Amperage is less about the wood and more about the size of the bit you are trying to drive (and thus the size of holes you are trying to make). Obviously wood hardness will affect that, but (in my limited experience) it's more about what you are using it for. I picked up the DeWalt 1.25 HP compact router which is nice because it comes with a plunge base and has some nice guides. That's limited to a 1/4" shank, so it's more for doing light edge work or shallow/narrow plunges, but I haven't really hit a limit yet. If you really only want one tool then you might want something with a larger 1/2" shank. I've also heard the Porter Cable routers are quite capable for the cost.
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Jul 18, 2017 15:22
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I'm looking to get a circular saw of some form for projects around the house. 1. Basic plywood work - building floating shelving, etc. 2. Reinforcing stairs in the basement - cutting 4 x 4s and molding. 3. Constructing basement/garage storage shelving. Long term I'm interested in possibly framing my basement out, but that's a much longer term project requiring more tools. I'm looking at the dewalt DWE575SB, because I'm rather scared of accidents and I'm not experienced at all with saw operation. Am I overbuying for my needs? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWE575SB-Lightweight-Circular-Electric/dp/B007QUZ16A
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Jul 18, 2017 18:37
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You won't be cutting 4x4s with a circular saw. Other than that, I see no issue with it. I'm a Makita guy myself, but anymore that's just choosing a color
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Jul 18, 2017 18:56
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:You won't be cutting 4x4s with a circular saw. Other than that, I see no issue with it. I'm a Makita guy myself, but anymore that's just choosing a color If you aren't doing too many 4x4s can't you just do a pass on each side to do the cuts?
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Jul 18, 2017 18:59
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:You won't be cutting 4x4s with a circular saw. Other than that, I see no issue with it. I'm a Makita guy myself, but anymore that's just choosing a color I was under the impression I'd get about 2.5 then rotate the wood to finish. I'm assuming I'll only need to cut each post once to get the height right for attaching the banister and anchoring to the floor.
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Jul 18, 2017 19:00
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That's correct, you can just cut each side once. Might take a few tries to get each side aligned well though. Can always finish with a hand saw too if you had to.
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Jul 18, 2017 19:02
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Grainger has another new company to take on McMaster-Carr. gamut.com Set up just like McMaster, but some items give you a brand name option. $100 ships for free. Looks like they are going after McMaster business that Zoro isn't picking up.
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Jul 19, 2017 14:02
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Velius posted:I'm looking to get a circular saw of some form for projects around the house. If you're a righty, a saw with a blade on the left might be worth considering. There are pros and cons to each but blade-left makes it easier for me to see/follow the cut line, especially when you're holding a speed square against the foot plate of the saw with your left hand while cutting. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CS5-12...ds=circular+saw
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Jul 19, 2017 17:40
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https://imgur.com/gallery/Jwuds Check out that score by a random internet dude for $700, tools and toolbox included. Machine tools and clamps for days 
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Jul 19, 2017 18:35
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canyoneer posted:https://imgur.com/gallery/Jwuds  That's a lot of precision metal.
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Jul 19, 2017 19:45
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I saw that on the YouTube machinists FB page
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Jul 19, 2017 21:54
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Hooray, this is my router's plug: I have no idea how to go about rescuing this. Can I just buy a new plug of the appropriate gauge, cut the end off of the current one, solder the wires to the new plug, and put some heat-shrink on there? I was planning to buy a new router anyway, but that was so I wouldn't have to keep switching this one between the router table and the plunge base. I don't want to have to buy two new routers. This kind of thing is why I think having an integrated cable is dumb, especially for situations where the plug can easily get underfoot.
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Jul 22, 2017 22:28
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hooray, this is my router's plug: What kind of router has an integrated plug, Shirley they all go in somewhere to connectors and a switch. However, you don't have to solder anything, just get a replacement plug, strip the 3 wires back, and screw each to its appropriate terminal. These replacement plugs are a thing of beauty. 
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Jul 22, 2017 22:36
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