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I'm using the cheap LG freesync one and TBH I wouldn't recommend it for pure gaming - it looks great for general usage but black levels are terrible which is a pretty big deal in a lot of games. Also it's only 60Hz of course and the freesync range is probably quite useless (dunno I have an Nvidia card anyway)
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Jul 18, 2017 08:53
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I already have an Acer X34 that I game on mostly, I really just want the 4k since my other secondary monitor is in serious need of an upgrade and there are a few games that still don't want to play nice with 3440x1440 resolution. I don't need something perfect but just something that works now and can play games passably while mostly being used for chrome and Netflix.
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Jul 18, 2017 10:15
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I use a 40" Samsung 4k tv for my secondary monitor, the UE6400 series. Supports 60hz, full colour over HDMI 2. Fantastic definition, perfectly usable as a monitor. Cost me around £350, though I might have got it on sale. Probably a bit large for you though.
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Jul 18, 2017 10:30
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tzirean posted:I have a Dell S2340M monitor that I got three years ago in a "poo poo, my monitor just died, I need a new one" situation, and I'd like to get a second monitor. Should I get another S2340M... Having read through more of the thread and looked elsewhere, I think the actual answer is "my usage requirements are so low that it doesn't actually matter?"
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Jul 18, 2017 12:03
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I bought an Asus PG248Q for ~362 American dollars. Pretty WOW feeling going from a 10+ years LCD.
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Jul 18, 2017 17:20
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Paul MaudDib posted:This is the one thing I will slam Dell on. Fix your loving DisplayPort board, it doesn't meet the spec and it's been wrong for years now. Or at least make it an option in the OSD to choose disconnected mode. quote:3.1.3.2 Hot Plug/Unplug Detection All the spec requires as far as I read it is that if the sink is asserting HPD it's ready to talk to the source over the aux channel. I think that's the reason we have this crap happening, is the aux channel is more complicated than the old I2C-based link used in VGA, DVI, and HDMI. That could literally be implemented as an EEPROM as far as I'm aware. With the increased attention on parasitic power consumption these days it wouldn't surprise me to find out that the component that controls the DP AUX channel draws more power than they wanted to have happening in an "off" state, so they make it turn off too. If the aux channel isn't there the hotplug signal must not be asserted, thus the monitor "disappears" as far as the computer is concerned if someone presses the power button rather than just letting the computer put it to sleep. If I'm on the right track with that it's stupid but somewhat logical since I think there are regulations on parasitic draw in some places. If that is the reason though they really should make it optional.
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Jul 18, 2017 19:53
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Is there an online monitor database I can go to go find all available monitors at a given size and resolution? I'm looking for a 4k monitor and would like to see what brands/sizes are commercially available, but it's freaking impossible to find anything comprehensive.
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Jul 18, 2017 21:44
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WAR DOGS OF SOCHI posted:Is there an online monitor database I can go to go find all available monitors at a given size and resolution? I'm looking for a 4k monitor and would like to see what brands/sizes are commercially available, but it's freaking impossible to find anything comprehensive. I'm not sure there's anything quite like you're describing. Besides newegg's category searching with filters, there's https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/ for a non-comprehensive look, though.
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Jul 18, 2017 22:16
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There's http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/selector.htm at least.
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Jul 18, 2017 22:57
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Anyone have any opinion on the XR341CK other than "slower than the X34"? Seems like a decent compromise for FreeSync with an RX 480 if the price is right. A 480 isn't going to get too far past 75 Hz at 1440p anyway, and it does LFC so 40 fps lows in Witcher 3 ultra are no big deal. If you have a bigger case, RX 480 CF might be fairly cheap soon too. Sweet jesus there are 38" 1600p IPS ultrawides now, like the Acer XR382CQK (currently $1100 on Amazon/Newegg). I have a powerful need for the 100 Hz GSync version of this, but right now I don't think AMD has the GPUs to drive it well. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Jul 19, 2017 |
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Jul 19, 2017 02:31
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Paul MaudDib posted:Anyone have any opinion on the XR341CK other than "slower than the X34"? Seems like a decent compromise for FreeSync with an RX 480 if the price is right. A 480 isn't going to get too far past 75 Hz at 1440p anyway, and it does LFC so 40 fps lows in Witcher 3 ultra are no big deal. If you have a bigger case, RX 480 CF might be fairly cheap soon too. I have no complaints about my XR341CK other than that I'm on an NV card now. Whatever, it was an ultrawide for 600 when used x34s were going for hundreds more. I used it for over a year with a 290, so a 480 would be a good match.
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Jul 19, 2017 04:16
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WAR DOGS OF SOCHI posted:Is there an online monitor database I can go to go find all available monitors at a given size and resolution? I'm looking for a 4k monitor and would like to see what brands/sizes are commercially available, but it's freaking impossible to find anything comprehensive. If you're from Europe, https://geizhals.eu/?cat=monlcd19wide is great. Plenty of filtering options. wolrah posted:If that is the reason though they really should make it optional. This is how pretty much any monitor works, hence why Microsoft should add a toggle that stops Windows from acting like the monitor has been disconnected. It's been a common complaint for years, now. Fame Douglas fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Jul 19, 2017 |
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Jul 19, 2017 08:55
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I used to turn off my monitors and get annoyed by this, but win10 will put monitors in standby after a minute if you lock the machine, so that solved my problem.
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Jul 19, 2017 10:37
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I have a new G-sync monitor, it's good. But I don't know if I should disable V-sync in the nVidia control panel or in games and just use the G-Sync? I don't fully understand. I thought G-sync sorta replaced V-sync in a way. In, let's say, Overwatch I exceed the 144fps mark. Are these things I should be messing with in regards to input lag or whatever? Or does it not matter.
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Jul 19, 2017 14:54
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von Braun posted:I have a new G-sync monitor, it's good. But I don't know if I should disable V-sync in the nVidia control panel or in games and just use the G-Sync? I don't fully understand. I thought G-sync sorta replaced V-sync in a way. I put gsync and vsync on in the nvidia control panel and off in the game, that keeps the game from rendering over the max refresh and avoids fuckery from the game engine. Of course YMMV, every game is different.
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Jul 19, 2017 15:02
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Fame Douglas posted:This is how pretty much any monitor works, hence why Microsoft should add a toggle that stops Windows from acting like the monitor has been disconnected. It's been a common complaint for years, now. Except it's not how every monitor works. There are plenty of monitors that do it right and signal connected as long as they have power. A popular brand (Dell) seems to get it wrong pretty consistently, but that's not representative of the market as a whole. As far as the toggle you want, you can change the configuration of the default desktop somewhere in the registry and make it match your monitor, that way when your monitor disconnects the desktop size won't change and things won't be moved around. I doubt Microsoft is going to add a toggle to disable hotplug detection just to handle the subset of users who have monitors that do stupid things AND insist on manually turning them off. The number of people who would accidentally flip this on their laptops when plugged in to a projector and then complain about how Windows keeps losing their mouse would almost certainly outweigh the people who would actually have a use for that functionality. What's wrong with just putting the monitor to sleep? If it has a lovely implementation where it decides "off = disconnected", why does it need to be off? Since the PC is being left running in this scenario what's another few watts of standby power? wolrah fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Jul 19, 2017 |
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Jul 19, 2017 16:41
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What's the current best 2k gsync panel under $1,000? I'd like 27" or larger. My current Dell Ultrasharps are dying, the U2410 is on its last legs for sure.
Sterling_Archer fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jul 19, 2017 |
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Jul 19, 2017 17:10
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von Braun posted:I have a new G-sync monitor, it's good. But I don't know if I should disable V-sync in the nVidia control panel or in games and just use the G-Sync? I don't fully understand. I thought G-sync sorta replaced V-sync in a way. Blurbusters has a great article on this but it's a long one. http://www.blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag/ TLDR: depends on your preferences. 1. Lowest input lag, lots of tearing: Gsync off, Vsync off, 300 FPS cap 2. Low input lag, very little tearing: Gsync on, Vsync off, FPS cap at refresh rate -3 (141 in your case). 3. Low input lag + 1ms, zero tearing ever: Gsync on, Nvidia Control Panel Vsync on, in-game Vsync off, FPS cap at refresh rate -3 (141 in your case). I use the third variant in every game including Overwatch. eames fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jul 19, 2017 |
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Jul 19, 2017 17:11
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wolrah posted:Except it's not how every monitor works. There are plenty of monitors that do it right and signal connected as long as they have power. A popular brand (Dell) seems to get it wrong pretty consistently, but that's not representative of the market as a whole. Yeah, but it's probably how the majority of monitors work. They don't need a toggle, just a registry setting.
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Jul 19, 2017 22:18
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eames posted:Blurbusters has a great article on this but it's a long one. Thanks for this. I tried the third option and it went well (got a POTG with Ana  ). I hate tearing but I'll try the first one tomorrow to see if I can notice anything.What does turning V-Sync off in Windows do compared to in-game? Or is tearing a thing in Windows as well?
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Jul 19, 2017 22:26
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Sterling_Archer posted:What's the current best 2k gsync panel under $1,000? I'd like 27" or larger. My current Dell Ultrasharps are dying, the U2410 is on its last legs for sure. Others will chime in, but the Acer XB271HU is the popular choice. 1440p, 144-165Hz, g-sync, IPS, 27".
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Jul 20, 2017 01:30
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WELP. My AcerRecertified XB270HU from ~1 year ago has started flickering at 144 Hz. Definitely the monitor, tried a different GPU and cable. At first it was just an intermittent problem, now it's happening regularly. Happens regardless of GSync mode, but it still works at 120 Hz. For now. Guess I better start planning my replacement, and I don't think I'll be able to pass it to my GF for long at all. At this point I want a warranty and I'm thinking I buy a new X34 to replace it (~$960 at Microcenter with the $100 student discount). A 38" 1600p 100 Hz UW with GSync sounds awesome and would probably be worth a couple hundred extra bucks but not $2000 (FreeSync 75 Hz versions are at $1100, so let's say $1500 for a premium 100 Hz monitor with GSync). Without the XB270HU to pass to my GF I'll need to figure out a plan B. She has no space for an UW and she is concerned about the curve and art/CAD stuff, but the XF270HU-for-$400 deal at Microcenter is sounding pretty good for her right now. 27" is about all she can comfortably fit anyway, and a 480 is still a viable low-end card for 1440p. I think in theory she might be a candidate for a 24" monitor, but that would mean a choice between IPS and GSync/FreeSync+LFC. Either way sucks, IPS (and higher-than-1080p resolution) is a major point for the photo stuff and it's going to be a lot tougher to fit workable poo poo into her space/heat/noise constraints without *Sync and LFC support. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jul 20, 2017 |
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Jul 20, 2017 03:58
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Paul MaudDib posted:
They just need to refresh it with a 100Hz+ panel and gsync and I'm sold. Moving from 2560x1600 to x1440 isn't going to happen. The 34" monitors just feel too small conpared to 38".
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Jul 20, 2017 06:37
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"this 34" monitor feels too small" said absolutely no-one
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Jul 20, 2017 07:46
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Fruit Chewy posted:"this 34" monitor feels too small" said absolutely no-one The 34" monitors feel smaller than old 30" 2560x1600 monitors 😬 Maybe it's because they are not as tall? 3440*.233 & 1440*.233 = 80x33,6cm 2560*.2505 & 1600*.2505 = 64x40cm The screen area is a little bit smaller on the 30" but I can't go back to a lower vertical res screen, no matter what. If I pay over $1000 from a screen, upgrade must feel like an actual upgrade, not a sidegrade.
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Jul 20, 2017 08:04
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Fruit Chewy posted:"this 34" monitor feels too small" said absolutely no-one Ultrawides are a good start for a multimonitor setup, but there's definitely room for more real estate.
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Jul 20, 2017 14:54
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xthetenth posted:Ultrawides are a good start for a multimonitor setup, but there's definitely room for more real estate. I have a 27+34+27 setup and could still probably benefit from another 27 above the 34. Screen real-estate is addictive.
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Jul 20, 2017 17:19
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DrDork posted:I have a 27+34+27 setup and could still probably benefit from another 27 above the 34. 
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Jul 20, 2017 18:06
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Look at that... I had a stuck pixel on my XB271HU for nearly a year. It got unstuck somewhen over the last week or two. I guess I finally won the panel lottery entirely, a year late, because both of mine of the same model have minimal glow and no BLB.
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Jul 20, 2017 18:48
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I have deliberately avoided looking for stuck pixels or backlight bleed. Ignorance is bliss
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Jul 20, 2017 19:47
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Why do they bother with built in speakers on a monitor like the Asus PG279Q?
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Jul 20, 2017 23:17
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fletcher posted:Why do they bother with built in speakers on a monitor like the Asus PG279Q? Because it's a checkbox that will cost them a few points with some reviewers. Nobody expects them to sound good, not even reviewers. It's pretty much impossible to make good bass from a speaker that's less than a half inch deep - and I don't mean "doesn't compete with audiophile speakers" here, I mean like "there's no output below 2 KHz or so". Everyone who cares will use separate speakers/a soundbar/headphones. They are maybe better than laptop speakers. Maybe. Other than that their only virtue is "better than nothing I guess".
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Jul 21, 2017 00:03
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Not sure this is the right place to post this but here it is: I have a 4k Samsung TV that I use as a monitor. Had it hooked up via HDMI 2.0. Problem is when the display gets turned off Windows thinks I disconnected the thing entirely and resets the resolution to 800x600 and also smashes all my open windows to the upper left resized at 800x600. REALLY annoying. I ended up getting an active Display Port to HDMI 2.0 adapter which works fine. I thought maybe it would prevent Windows from thinking the TV was disconnected when off.. no go until I found a tidbit on a forum somewhere: "Try this. Go to Control Panel, Power Options, Edit the plan you use by clicking Change Plan Settings, once here click Change Advanced Power Settings. Once there, go to USB Settings, open the menu by clicking the + open the next menu named USB Selective Suspend Setting and disable it. Once this is disabled Windows 7 will no longer adjust your display setup when a display is turned off." And what the hell, it actually worked. Only with Displayport mind you.
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Jul 21, 2017 00:07
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Paul MaudDib posted:Because it's a checkbox that will cost them a few points with some reviewers. Nobody expects them to sound good, not even reviewers. It's pretty much impossible to make good bass from a speaker that's less than a half inch deep - and I don't mean "doesn't compete with audiophile speakers" here, I mean like "there's no output below 2 KHz or so". Everyone who cares will use separate speakers/a soundbar/headphones. I very occasionally will flip my audio to my x34 speakers if I'm trying to show someone something because otherwise I use nice headphones. They're the best monitor speakers I've heard which says very little.
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Jul 21, 2017 00:53
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Fruit Chewy posted:I very occasionally will flip my audio to my x34 speakers if I'm trying to show someone something because otherwise I use nice headphones. They're the best monitor speakers I've heard which says very little. You don't have speakers in your room/office/den/whatever? I use headphones when I'm gaming but I like speakers for music when I'm working at my desk or in the room. You can pick up a lovely Chinese class-T speaker amp and some low-end bookshelf speakers for almost nothing. Nice thing about doing that is you can make the speaker cables to length, so you can position them however you want. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jul 21, 2017 |
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Jul 21, 2017 01:19
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Paul MaudDib posted:You don't have speakers in your room/office/den/whatever? I use headphones when I'm gaming but I like speakers for music when I'm working at my desk or in the room. I have the class-t amp and cheap bookshelf speakers setup 4 feet to my right hooked up to my TV so I just chromecast music to it.
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Jul 21, 2017 02:47
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Hey again thread. I don't know if this is the best place to ask this but; I have an old but reliable monitor (Dell E248WFP) which I want to re-purpose as a temporary TV of sorts. However I suddenly discovered that I'm missing the power cable for it. Its one of those standard cables. I want to buy a handful of replacements off monoprice since I also seem to be missing it for an old computer (same cable) and I love drowning in a sea of uncessary cables. Problem; when I go on monoprice I see 3 options 14, 16, and 18 AWG. I can't find which is the one for the dell monitor, but I suspect it doesn't matter very much? Any advice would be appreciated...
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Jul 21, 2017 04:43
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GenericGirlName posted:Hey again thread. I don't know if this is the best place to ask this but; I have an old but reliable monitor (Dell E248WFP) which I want to re-purpose as a temporary TV of sorts. However I suddenly discovered that I'm missing the power cable for it. Its one of those standard cables. I want to buy a handful of replacements off monoprice since I also seem to be missing it for an old computer (same cable) and I love drowning in a sea of uncessary cables. Problem; when I go on monoprice I see 3 options 14, 16, and 18 AWG. I can't find which is the one for the dell monitor, but I suspect it doesn't matter very much? Any advice would be appreciated... The thicker cables (lower AWG numbers) can handle more power (https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm). For your monitor the 18 AWG should be fine, for the PC I'd get 16 or 14 if it may use a lot of power.
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Jul 21, 2017 07:01
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DrDork posted:I have a 27+34+27 setup and could still probably benefit from another 27 above the 34. I had a 27 alongside my 34 but it felt like too much. I can't imagine two 27s
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Jul 21, 2017 20:44
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Rexxed posted:The thicker cables (lower AWG numbers) can handle more power (https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm). For your monitor the 18 AWG should be fine, for the PC I'd get 16 or 14 if it may use a lot of power. Thanks! It is a low end pc that was assembled in 2012~ so I guess 16 should be fine.
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Jul 22, 2017 04:52
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