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Ferremit posted:Havent really had an issue with nuisance trips, Im more likely to trip out that 63A meter isolator if im welding, the spa is heating, the hot water service is on and the AC fires up! Its the biggest single phase 220v supply you can get to a domestic property tho, if i want more i need to get my service upgraded to a 3 phase service which gives me 3x63A phases and 415v if you combine em. Just got my supply upgraded to 100A single phase because the new induction range cooker will crest 63A by turning all the controls to max.
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Jun 19, 2017 14:18
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I've always wanted to ask this question about Australian wiring: are those breakers all wired in or do they clip into a bus bar in the load center? For the longest time I've assumed those are just DIN rail mount breakers, but that would mean that everything is wired onsite inside which I would have thought would go away to reduce install costs.
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Jun 19, 2017 15:01
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Tim Thomas posted:I've always wanted to ask this question about Australian wiring: are those breakers all wired in or do they clip into a bus bar in the load center? For the longest time I've assumed those are just DIN rail mount breakers, but that would mean that everything is wired onsite inside which I would have thought would go away to reduce install costs. From what I can tell, it's mostly DIN rail here in Oz. I think they used to have plug in breakers, but moved to DIN rail a while ago? I don't think I've lived in a house here in Oz that has plug in breakers, it's always been a random jumble of DIN breakers that definitely did not appear to be properly mounted to a rail.  When I had my solar panels installed last year, it took the electrician pretty much an entire day to wire things up, since there wasn't enough room in the box and he had to move things around to get all the breakers, isolators and the smart meter to fit. Whenever I watched what he was doing, it was just a mass of wires running to a jumble of breakers hanging everywhere. It looked like a giant clusterfuck to be honest, especially since I'm from the US and all the houses I lived in had your regular Square D breaker box. I think the plug in breakers they had here were more like direct replacements for plug in fuses? Any dumb homeowner could just buy a bigger breaker and swap it out, so they went to the DIN rail breakers to make DIY more difficult. Which I guess could make sense as you can't do any sort of DIY electrical work here, even something as simple as changing a light fixture DIY isn't allowed.
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Jun 20, 2017 04:44
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Been a busy 5 days. The pre-move walkthrough: https://vimeo.com/222347557 Moving day was interesting. 8 Movers show up and get all our stuff onto trucks in a couple hours. We get to the new house, start going down the driveway, and realize the trucks are too heavy on the new asphalt and can't drive them down. Moving company gets 4 more dudes over and they walk everything from the street.  You can also see the lawn seeded & hayed there. Been having a real hot & wet week, haven't had to water yet, should have grass soon. We've had a frequent visitor  Turns out a new house has a ton of little projects. Closet storage, shelves in laundry room, hanging hooks, etc. That and unpacking have kept me very busy. We had a very heavy rain last night, so I was able to see how drainage works with our driveway. It was a lake. Maybe 4 inches deep. Nothing in the garage, which was good. I waded out and figured out the problem. There was a lip of weedcloth under the gravel that was acting like a dam. I dug out some gravel, laid the weedcloth flat, and it drained pretty well after that. I'll have to do it proper when it's not under water. Still got a list of things for the builder to finish up. quote:- White paint splatter along bottoms of doors (front door, French doors) Landscaper starts mid July. After that, I think we're more or less done. For selling the old house, I needed a smoke detector certificate. Turns out the previous owners hadn't done the system to code. Half the house was hard-wired, the other half battery operated. It should have all been hardwired when it was last renovated. Luckily, the inspector was willing to accept me putting in wireless detectors in the old half. First Alert has these nifty units that are battery operated, but all interconnected. They also have a wired unit that acts as a bridge to tie the wireless and wired systems together. Couple hundred dollars to replace 7 detectors.
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Jun 20, 2017 14:09
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Who is the fucker in the bathroom mirror? Holy poo poo your place looks amazing. Congrats.
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Jun 20, 2017 18:42
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Potato Salad posted:Who is the fucker in the bathroom mirror? If you look close enough, my wife made an appearance in a completely different part of the video too.
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Jun 20, 2017 18:54
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Gounads posted:The pre-move walkthrough: Lookin' good. That shade of blue in your office & kid's room is pretty popular these days (considering it myself). Did you consider / are you considering painting a full room in a strong colour like that (or the red downstairs) rather than just feature walls? Is that olive tone there to stay?
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Jun 20, 2017 18:58
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Gounads posted:If you look close enough, my wife made an appearance in a completely different part of the video too. Entry closet? Either that or you got ghosts.
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Jun 20, 2017 19:10
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Arachnamus posted:Lookin' good. Painting is done. There is no olive. Do you mean the main gray color? This pic is a bit more true to real life: http://imgur.com/d7pE4hH
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Jun 20, 2017 19:44
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Gounads posted:Painting is done. There is no olive. Do you mean the main gray color? Yeah sorry I was going off memory, perhaps it looked a little yellower in the video. I don't think it's bad in any way, just curious as to your reasoning for those choices since I'm going to have to do similar soon.
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Jun 20, 2017 21:01
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Mister Dog posted:Entry closet? Either that or you got ghosts. Or a serial killer. But yeah, pretty sure that's the other cameo appearance.
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Jun 21, 2017 01:35
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I'm glad I wasn't imagining the person in the closet.
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Jun 21, 2017 05:02
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Very nice house, congrats
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Jun 21, 2017 12:58
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Tim Thomas posted:I've always wanted to ask this question about Australian wiring: are those breakers all wired in or do they clip into a bus bar in the load center? For the longest time I've assumed those are just DIN rail mount breakers, but that would mean that everything is wired onsite inside which I would have thought would go away to reduce install costs. Almost everything is DIN rail mounted now- it just clicks in, but everything is hard wired to the breakers themselves and how thats done depends on the sparky and their level of care and competence. My shed was wired by my mate whos a sparky and thats DIN rail with a main bus bar that feeds the active from the main breaker into the individual breakers, but the house one was done by the builder and is an absolute clusterfuck of wires instead of a nice easy bus bar. When we're inclined my mates going to come around and spend a few hours putting in a bus bar to try and remove some of the spaghetti monster. You still have bus bars for the neutral and earth connections in the panel too. I think one of the reasons they moved away from click in breakers is that solid big screw terminals on a breaker give you much better contact than spring tension terminals on a click in one since 220v allows you to pull a shitload more wattage out than 110v (2400w on a 20A 110v breaker vs 4400w on a 20A breaker). The 32a breakers for my spa circuit and AC circuit are good for 7KW @ 220v each! Arachnamus posted:Just got my supply upgraded to 100A single phase because the new induction range cooker will crest 63A by turning all the controls to max. 220v or 110v? You get a shitload more bang for your buck out of 220v but holy gently caress 63A at 220v is a MASSIVE amount of energy consumption. 13.8KW!
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Jun 21, 2017 13:55
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Jordanis posted:I'm glad I wasn't imagining the person in the closet. Beautiful house, even come pre-haunted!
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Jun 21, 2017 17:53
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Ferremit posted:220v or 110v? You get a shitload more bang for your buck out of 220v but holy gently caress 63A at 220v is a MASSIVE amount of energy consumption. 13.8KW! 230v because UK/EU. So it's 14.8kW: http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/products/range-cookers/elise/elise-110-induction
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Jun 21, 2017 19:06
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Arachnamus posted:230v because UK/EU. So it's 14.8kW: http://www.rangemaster.co.uk/products/range-cookers/elise/elise-110-induction
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Jun 22, 2017 12:00
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Gounads posted:Been a busy 5 days. Your finish carpenter appears to have done a good job. The switch placements make my heart ache a bit though... like at 0:45 with the cover looking to be cut. There doesn't seem to be a consistency to their placement.
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Jun 22, 2017 15:11
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xwing posted:Your finish carpenter appears to have done a good job. The switch placements make my heart ache a bit though... like at 0:45 with the cover looking to be cut. There doesn't seem to be a consistency to their placement. Finish was the builder himself, he's a former cabinet guy. Switch placement was half our fault. We walked the house with electrician and pointed out where they should go. Probably could have had some better planning.
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Jun 22, 2017 17:23
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Hambilderberglar posted:How many zones does that monster subdivide into? 5 hob rings, 2 fan ovens, and a dual-circuit grill.
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Jun 22, 2017 18:14
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Ferremit posted:220v or 110v? You get a shitload more bang for your buck out of 220v but holy gently caress 63A at 220v is a MASSIVE amount of energy consumption. 13.8KW! That... honestly doesn't seem that bad for more than a basic range. But I've worked in commercial kitchens, where just the fans inside a large pizza oven are on a 3 phase 30 amp breaker (most likely 277V at the places I've worked.. but could be 208V, could be 480V). My 4 ring/1 oven US range is on a 40 amp breaker, and it's the most barebones full size US range you can get (no lights, no timers, no clock, not even a window in the oven door - 3 small rings, 1 large one, 1 oven). Typical US 120/240 service (except I'm very close to the substation.. usually measure about 125V on each leg). I think my furnace is on a 60 amp circuit.  I don't like turning that fucker on, I feel like I'm just throwing my wallet out the window.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Jun 23, 2017 |
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Jun 23, 2017 08:41
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Was supposed to receive the last payment from the bank today. Bank @ 10am: Lol, Forgot to ask. Send us the occupancy permit and proof of insurance paid for a year. Problems there. 1. Builder is holding permit ransom until last check 2. I only paid for a month of insurance since cashflow is loving tight without this $180k they owe me. 3. I'm on a business trip ok, no problem. Call builder, get him to send over a pic of the permit. Call insurance lady and convince her to take payment over phone. Send everything to bank within like a half hour. 3 hours later Bank: Can you send a better copy of the permit that contains the entire document. WTF. The pic was perfectly readable and only missed a sliver of blank space at the bottom. gently caress you.
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Jun 29, 2017 19:39
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Shower door went in today They're coming back tomorrow to clean up some of the caulking, but looks pretty great. Since I last wrote we got the last bank check and paid off the builder. Landscaper comes next week.
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Jul 10, 2017 19:13
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I'm the scratch mark the robe hook will leave on your shower door.
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Jul 10, 2017 22:40
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Gounads posted:Shower door went in today Is that coat hook not going to shatter the door the first time someone walks into the bathroom while the shower door is open? I like the look of the tile and glass, but that makes me nervous.
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Jul 10, 2017 23:02
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I've got a set of these to install http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Satin-Nickel-Light-Duty-Hinge-Pin-Door-Stop-15102/202033955 e: Wait.. yeah.. when the *shower door is open*, that's a problem. Looks like I need to move the hangar to the closet door instead of that one. Then the door just hits the shower door handle Gounads fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jul 11, 2017 |
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Jul 11, 2017 01:26
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It should be tempered glass, you should be able to smack it with a hammer and it won't suffer a scratch. Just don't do anything stupid like gently saw on an edge with a file, that'll leave one hell of a mess.
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Jul 11, 2017 08:31
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Radon test came back. 40pCi/L EPA Recommendation: 4pCi/L Luckily the builder installed all the piping, just need to add the fan unit. Hopefully that fixes it.
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Jul 11, 2017 22:06
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Gounads posted:Radon test came back. 40pCi/L Wow, I take you have pretty shallow granite bedrock in your area.
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Jul 11, 2017 23:03
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Gounads posted:Radon test came back. 40pCi/L Good call on the piping - The rows under the full foundation? You'll be fine - When we bought, home inspection found a similar level. Even the retrofit job - seal the sump and knock a hole in the floor for the fan draw pipe - knocked it down to almost nothing.
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Jul 12, 2017 04:19
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Good call on the piping - The rows under the full foundation? That's what I figured, it's a really common problem. Yes, rows under foundation, we have crushed stone and the plastic barrier thing under the concrete floor so it should be an effective fix. Bought a fan and a digital radon meter off Amazon, comes in Friday. I went up into the attic to see what I had to work with. Builder said he put an outlet up there for this purpose, but I couldn't find it digging around in the blown-in insulation. Got a call out to him to figure out where. But worse-case, there's a line for the bathroom fan right nearby that I could tap into and add an outlet. This should be a quick morning job on Saturday.
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Jul 12, 2017 13:08
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Hovering between 0.65 -> 0.83 pCi/L - Mitigation system success.
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Jul 17, 2017 15:10
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Next problem to deal with... https://vimeo.com/226023693
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Jul 18, 2017 17:26
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At least it's draining away from the house, right?
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Jul 18, 2017 17:28
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Where is all the water coming from? Roof, driveway, etc? Seems like it's time to start redirecting all those sources.
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Jul 18, 2017 17:55
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Where is all the water coming from? Roof, driveway, etc? I'm at the end of a dead end. Hill slopes towards me, so I get all the water from the entire road.  (There are now curbs on both sides of the driveway that weren't in that picture.) The road (like most) is higher in the middle so water flows down the edges. Half of that water goes left before it hits my driveway and drains just outside my driveway, previously undercutting it. I've got that mostly solved by moving around some big rocks. I've got a few tons of 1" rocks coming in next week that should finish solving it. That water ends up in a swampy area and is no problem. (That's the green line) The other half hits my curb (right at that big rock to the right of the pole) and comes down the driveway, and that's the problem. (the pink line) I'm thinking of cutting into that curb and draining some of that water down my lawn to the right, but I need to be careful about not eating away the hill because there is sewer, water, and electrical lines buried. At the bottom (seen in the video) I'm thinking of taking the rocks down level with the driveway so it doesn't pool up so much. The real problem happens when we get 6" of water that bursts through the rocks and drags them away. I think we would have been ok if we hadn't collected half a storm of rain before quickly draining it.
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Jul 18, 2017 18:41
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maybe a spillway? cut up that nice new curb you just made? deeerp.. finish reading the post dumbass anyhow they do make anti erosion material with ripples and whatnot for hills like that.
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Jul 18, 2017 18:50
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There really should be a culvert where the driveway meets the road, or at least a hump where it meets the road so the water stayed on the road instead of spilling down the driveway. Tough grade for that, though, could bottom out a lower car. That's definitely a lot of water to redurect, though, and you definitely need to get it away from the foubdation. Any aerial drawings to give us and better idea of the layout?
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Jul 18, 2017 22:37
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Electrolysis. Remove the water and sell the waste hydrogen afterward  Edit: You can electrolytically separate a 10cm high, 1m wide surge of water traveling 1m/s down the hill with 1.6 GW of electrical power if you can get it pretty darn pure before processing. Maybe it would be more efficient to boil the water away at a few meager megawatts of power. Potato Salad fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Jul 18, 2017 |
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Jul 18, 2017 23:17
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tetrapyloctomy posted:There really should be a culvert where the driveway meets the road, or at least a hump where it meets the road so the water stayed on the road instead of spilling down the driveway. Tough grade for that, though, could bottom out a lower car. That's definitely a lot of water to redurect, though, and you definitely need to get it away from the foubdation. Any aerial drawings to give us and better idea of the layout? Could go with a slot/trench drain at the top of the driveway to divert some of the water from the road away. https://www.trenchdrainsystems.com/residential/driveway-drain.html
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Jul 19, 2017 00:17
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