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Oh, that should be fine then, didn't know what you had for structure under this. If I was at this point I'd probably just settle for adding a 1x something decorative rim board around the whole thing, would cover up that seam anyway and make it stand out a bit less.
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Jul 19, 2017 02:45
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In the process of remodling my kitchen and I am trying to reuse this old 6 foot stainless sink. Any guides or tips out there on how to safely remove it without damaging it? The sink is a Elkay lusterstone sink and would save me a lot of money if i can reuse it.
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Jul 19, 2017 03:00
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The Gardenator posted:In the process of remodling my kitchen and I am trying to reuse this old 6 foot stainless sink. Any guides or tips out there on how to safely remove it without damaging it? The sink is a Elkay lusterstone sink and would save me a lot of money if i can reuse it. Shut off the plumbing lines, etc. remove as many fixtures, pipes, etc as you can. The real come to Jesus moment will be when you go to detach whatever is holding it secure to the cabinet- You want several buddies to help lift it out. edit- it looks like it's got a piece of metal trim holding it to the backsplash. You want to gently pry that loose
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Jul 19, 2017 03:26
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The Gardenator posted:In the process of remodling my kitchen and I am trying to reuse this old 6 foot stainless sink. Any guides or tips out there on how to safely remove it without damaging it? The sink is a Elkay lusterstone sink and would save me a lot of money if i can reuse it. Yeah get your head up under there with a flashlight & have a good look-around. You'll probably find spring-loaded or screw-driven cleats securing it to the base cabinets.
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Jul 19, 2017 04:09
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Don't be afraid to cut the kitchen off the sink basically.
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Jul 19, 2017 21:55
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cakesmith handyman posted:Don't be afraid to cut the kitchen off the sink basically. New thread title please, and what does this even mean?
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Jul 19, 2017 22:06
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Mr. Mambold posted:New thread title please, and what does this even mean? Jigsaw/sawzall off things you intend to discard no matter what so that you can work on the sink as a standalone unit where it can't come crashing down.
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Jul 19, 2017 22:18
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Mr. Mambold posted:New thread title please, and what does this even mean? Take a chainsaw to the kitchen until you're wrecked everything except the sink. Then scrape the bits of kitchen off the sink until the sink's clean.
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Jul 19, 2017 22:21
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Set the counter/cabinets on fire and after it's gone out you can retrieve the sink from the ashes, undamaged.
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Jul 19, 2017 22:55
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Fill the kitchen with expanding foam.
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Jul 19, 2017 23:22
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Omne posted:That may be the only option. One neighbor is absentee, hes been cool with me trimming trees and stuff that come across the fence. The other refuses to speak about anything or get back to me, so I cut the trees anyway (took her 15 days to respond to a text message about it, which was 14 days after the work had been done). I don't know where you live but in Maryland you have every right to trim anything coming over your property line without seeking permission.
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Jul 20, 2017 00:29
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TheBananaKing posted:I don't know where you live but in Maryland you have every right to trim anything coming over your property line without seeking permission. this doesn't include humans anymore
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Jul 20, 2017 01:26
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Bozart posted:this doesn't include humans anymore well there's still florida
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Jul 20, 2017 01:30
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I've got to finish a small part of floor repair and last time I did this I ended up buying a few big sheets of 4'x8' plywood and OSB and had to get them trimmed down to fit in my car and to fit my projects because I felt safe with the words 'subfloor' all over the descriptions at the store. Well, I only need small sheet for around/under a toilet and I see this: https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444431329769.htm Is this in 3/4" going to be good for a subfloor repair or do I specifically need something that says intended or rated for subfloors?
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Jul 20, 2017 03:06
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JediTalentAgent posted:I've got to finish a small part of floor repair and last time I did this I ended up buying a few big sheets of 4'x8' plywood and OSB and had to get them trimmed down to fit in my car and to fit my projects because I felt safe with the words 'subfloor' all over the descriptions at the store. Three-quarter-inch plywood is good for subfloor, yes.
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Jul 20, 2017 03:20
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Bought a house. Removing 30-40 year old wallpaper and prepping for paint. Across a built-in from the fireplace in an alcove, we found the OO installed cement board over drywall and blended it quite well with mud. Removed it and wall seems straight. Why would it have been there? Some heat retention around the fireplace?
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Jul 20, 2017 05:46
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Bought a house. Removing 30-40 year old wallpaper and prepping for paint. Across a built-in from the fireplace in an alcove, we found the OO installed cement board over drywall and blended it quite well with mud. Removed it and wall seems straight. Why would it have been there? Some heat retention around the fireplace? They may have planned tiling it for an accent?
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Jul 20, 2017 05:51
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H110Hawk posted:Jigsaw/sawzall off things you intend to discard no matter what so that you can work on the sink as a standalone unit where it can't come crashing down. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Take a chainsaw to the kitchen until you're wrecked everything except the sink. Then scrape the bits of kitchen off the sink until the sink's clean. These guys get it.
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Jul 20, 2017 06:09
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Bought a house. Removing 30-40 year old wallpaper and prepping for paint. Across a built-in from the fireplace in an alcove, we found the OO installed cement board over drywall and blended it quite well with mud. Removed it and wall seems straight. Why would it have been there? Some heat retention around the fireplace? How close to the fireplace? quote:Can James Hardie products be used around a masonry fireplace?
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Jul 20, 2017 07:32
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HycoCam posted:How close to the fireplace? i seem to remember a thing in london recently that involved the words "refer to local building code."
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Jul 20, 2017 09:58
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I'm looking at creating a semi-temporary narrow table, to make a better use of space near a doorway. I'm probably looking at getting two answers to this, 1) dont do it, you moron and 2) if you really have to xyz. I'm looking at using this as a base http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/kitchen-products/worktops-worktops-accessories/hammarp-worktop-birch-art-80273794/ and cutting it to this sort of shape, squeezing on 3/4 chairs  My question is considering its a fairly thin piece of wood, how would I best go about fitting some legs *without* a downstand skirt/frame, so that a babies high chair can filly slide under. Although the long flat edge will be against a wall, I wont want to be fitting it to/hanging it off the wall. If I can slap on some ikea legs somehow with a bit of modification, then great. My concern is the thickness of the wood and the long narrow asymmetry of it. I originally nearly went with this as a starting slap http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/tables/dining-tables/%C3%B6vraryd-table-top-bamboo-art-90305723/ which would have been a more suitable starting size, but luckily spotted its a particle board centre rather than solid bamboo.
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Jul 20, 2017 14:11
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kid sinister posted:They may have planned tiling it for an accent? Yeah, considering the design aesthetic, this actually makes sense. And there could have been a tile-wrapped firewood nook back before converting to gas and then they ripped out the tile and wallpapered. This is the best lead yet! HycoCam posted:How close to the fireplace? About 3 to 4 feet from the side. If there is cement board around the fireplace itself, I'll never find out because I'm not touching it.
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Jul 20, 2017 15:17
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TheBananaKing posted:I don't know where you live but in Maryland you have every right to trim anything coming over your property line without seeking permission. It's the same here too (Tennessee). I've been cutting back vines since the day I moved in, too. For the trees, I wanted them to pay for trimming, since it's their trees and they lean pretty heavily over the fence; I've also tried getting the power company to do it, since the lines are going through the trees too but haven't had much luck there yet (they're supposed to maintain 10 feet of clearance on the lines and the power company pays for it, it's just a very long, multi-year wait for them to finally make it out).
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Jul 20, 2017 16:01
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cakesmith handyman posted:These guys get it. I would let the kudzu proliferate in the kitchen until it raises the sink to shoulder level. Then carry it out on your shoulders singing the theme song from Shrek
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Jul 20, 2017 16:08
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CharlieWhiskey posted:before converting to gas
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Jul 20, 2017 18:19
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Omne posted:My loving jerkoff neighbors have allowed kudzu vines to grow rampant in their yards. I've been cutting them back whenever they creep through the fence, but I've noticed they have started making their way from tall trees over to my roofline. They're way too high up for me or my 18' ladder to reach. Any ideas other than pouring bleach or burning their yards to the ground? I don't want these vines destroying things up there. If kudzu is a problem in your area and you live in a residential area, I'd bet you have building codes specifically addressing kudzu infestations. that would make the "correct" answer to your problem--call your municipal code enforcement office and register a complaint. They will send someone out with a badge to either ask your neighbor to take care of the problem or send a town maintenance crew with lots of experience removing kudzu. With that said--the rural method for kudzu removal always works: glyphosate and triclopyr are the herbicides to look for. Find concentrates of both (https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Star-Triclopyr-Herbicide-Gallon/dp/B004S70RK4 https://www.amazon.com/Glyphosate-Plus-Herbicide-Surfactant-Gallon/dp/B004QPXY9Y) mix them up super strong. Use diesel fuel instead of water for the coup de grace. While your shopping on Amazon might as well pickup ninja suit--get a couple of ladders ready for a moonless night and spray the crap out of kudzu at the roots. Just don't get shot...
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Jul 20, 2017 19:04
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MeKeV posted:I'm looking at creating a semi-temporary narrow table, to make a better use of space near a doorway. But in a few years, you'll hate having a higher table. Your no-longer-needing-highchair kids will have a hard time getting into chairs/pulling the chairs up to a 36" table until they are 10yro. i.e. when your kids start sitting in chairs and feeding themselves--you'll want a 24" table.  If you are going to use the table for meals frequently--my recommendation would be go for standard table height and keep your eyes peeled for a shorter highchair.
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Jul 20, 2017 19:06
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MeKeV posted:I'm looking at creating a semi-temporary narrow table, to make a better use of space near a doorway. What does that translate to from cm, about 6' x 20" x 1" thick? An inch thickness is not fairly thin at all, but that dimension is narrow like a bar top. It really doesnt lend itself to legs at all, so if you're deadset against attaching it to the wall, I'd say 1) What is Don't do this, you moron? for 400, Alex
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Jul 20, 2017 21:01
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Thanks. The narrowness and wanting to get the high chair under is to get it in without worrying about the access for the nearby door. I would prefer something a bit wider, and probably not as long, but Ive not found anything cheap that's solid. I don't fancy tidying up a curved cut edge on a ply type sheet. A breakfast bar isn't far off what it would be, but I'd prefer it to be nearer typical table height. Is this another bad idea? (Bask in the quality of the phone drawn diagram)  E: or longer straight legs, with an apron and then chop them down in a couple years! MeKeV fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jul 20, 2017 |
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Jul 20, 2017 21:54
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I'm borrrowing and trailering a Toro Timecutter 5060 (zero turn radius, 50" deck) to the new house. Where are the best places for ratchet straps on a Toro ztr to keep the mower safe and in place?
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Jul 20, 2017 23:16
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I was musing about my workshop earlier today, and realized that when I framed the walls, I attached the studs to the (pressure-treated, rests on concrete) sole plate using bright-finish nails, not galvanized nails. As I understand it, those nails aren't gonna last; I'm guessing I should go around the workshop and toenail galvanized nails through the studs into the sole plate?
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Jul 21, 2017 01:19
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HycoCam posted:With that said--the rural method for kudzu removal always works: glyphosate and triclopyr are the herbicides to look for. Find concentrates of both (https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Star-Triclopyr-Herbicide-Gallon/dp/B004S70RK4 https://www.amazon.com/Glyphosate-Plus-Herbicide-Surfactant-Gallon/dp/B004QPXY9Y) mix them up super strong. Use diesel fuel instead of water for the coup de grace. While your shopping on Amazon might as well pickup ninja suit--get a couple of ladders ready for a moonless night and spray the crap out of kudzu at the roots. Just don't get shot... not to nitpick but if it's glyphosate you want it on leaves. or injected directly into the stem if it's not too woody for that to work. the latter method works like a hot drat for nuisance blackberry bushes along fences or whatever, which is a thing here. day 3, that branch ain't lookin so good, day 7 it collapses under its own weight, day 14 it's dead as gently caress
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Jul 21, 2017 01:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I was musing about my workshop earlier today, and realized that when I framed the walls, I attached the studs to the (pressure-treated, rests on concrete) sole plate using bright-finish nails, not galvanized nails. As I understand it, those nails aren't gonna last; I'm guessing I should go around the workshop and toenail galvanized nails through the studs into the sole plate? If it makes you feel better. Take you about 10 minutes with a 16 nailer. It's a great feeling, friend. Better than a gun at a gun range because you're actually doing something constructive with your bang-bang.
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Jul 21, 2017 02:08
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I have a finished loft attic, it gets really hot up there. My fall project is to get some A/C up there, but in the meantime, it has four of those KFC chicken heater BR30 recessed lamps. Those get ridiculously hot. I'd like to replace them with LEDs, but I'm curious if the LEDs are actually any cooler. I have a Smartthings hub and Hue, but if possible I'd like to replace them with something automatically dimmable, maybe like a z-wave switch or smart bulbs. Also they'd have to be 2700k, since it's a bedroom right? I don't want it to be an operating theater.
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Jul 21, 2017 15:36
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I have a finished loft attic, it gets really hot up there. My fall project is to get some A/C up there, but in the meantime, it has four of those KFC chicken heater BR30 recessed lamps. Those get ridiculously hot. I'd like to replace them with LEDs, but I'm curious if the LEDs are actually any cooler. LEDs will put out tremendously less heat. I used to have two incandescent cans at my bathroom vanity and they felt like the outdoor sun. LEDs put out no noticeable heat in the same place. Home Depot's pseudo house brand Ecosmart stuff has dimmed well with all of the Linear z-wave dimmers I've got, and they're cheap. I like the ones with integrated trim rings because they update the look of the whole fixture in one go. HD has been great about letting me return open packages of bulbs advertised as "dimmable" that end up flickering.
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Jul 21, 2017 15:57
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I'm borrrowing and trailering a Toro Timecutter 5060 (zero turn radius, 50" deck) to the new house. Where are the best places for ratchet straps on a Toro ztr to keep the mower safe and in place? Just went and looked at mine. For the front, I'd use the arms where the front wheels attach, and for the back, either put the strap over each rear wheel or anywhere on the frame. You may also want to lower the deck so it doesn't bounce around.
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Jul 21, 2017 16:02
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We replaced all the recessed lights in our kitchen with Cree LED flood lights and no longer fry when standing directly below them (low ceilings).
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Jul 21, 2017 16:11
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Cree LEDs all the way. They still get warm (as in you don't want to touch them barehanded while they're on), but nothing at all like incandescents.
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Jul 21, 2017 16:28
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i like nice words
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I have a tiny shower+toilet bathroom, less than 10sqft. It has a humidity-sensing exhaust fan set to kick on above 80%RH. There's a damper on the fan and on the roof outlet, but neither are particularly air-tight. Lately as outdoor temps have risen, the fan has been cycling on and off constantly, even when the room is bone dry. My suspicion is that warm, moist air is leaking down the exhaust and triggering the fan. The bathroom has an AC register that is way, way too large for such a small space, and its always much colder than the rest of the house. Am I correct in thinking that if I seal off that register to bring the bathroom a little closer to the temp of the rest of the house, then warm air from outdoors will have less of an effect on the RH humidity reading at the fan? Relative humidity is a mystery to me.
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Jul 21, 2017 17:50
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The reduced supply is more likely to create draft and draw in more outside air than any effect on humidity, I'd think. Have you tried keeping the door to the bathroom closed to reduce the return from the space? That might give the room positive pressure and keep outside air from coming in.
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Jul 21, 2017 18:50
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