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I rented a wet saw to cut stone block, worked pretty great, but I had everything ready to cut and only needed it one day. Then I found out I could just buy the drat blocks in the sizes I cut them to. Not a tile saw though, more like a big chop saw. Safety third! 
jamal fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 06:38
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rdb posted:Brushless cordless impact. Makita, dewalt, Milwaukee all make good ones. A portable compressor is going to have trouble keeping up with a good air impact. Compared to something like this? - https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/21-gal-25-hp-125-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61454.html Or - https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/puma-135-psi-20-gal-air-compressor/0000000003375?Ntt=puma Maybe what I mean is something I can wheel around, not something I can easily just toss in the car. The cordless impacts are awfully tempting, and I can't say I'd need much more than that.
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Jul 23, 2017 14:43
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how often will you need to use the compressor, for impact or otherwise? they take up a ton of space, are noisy as hell and require more maintenance than a nice cordless impact but the versatility of a compressor is significant. if you only plan is to use it for impact driving, get a cordless one. no question.
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Jul 23, 2017 15:03
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I'm a weekend warrior, so it's really upkeep/repair on the family cars. That all makes sense on the compressor front, I'll have to give it some thought. As for a tool I can afford at the moment, what are some good electric cut-off tools? How's this - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Genesis-3-in-High-Speed-Electric-Cut-Off-Tool-GCOT335/300537385
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Jul 23, 2017 15:15
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nitsuga posted:I'm a weekend warrior, so it's really upkeep/repair on the family cars. That all makes sense on the compressor front, I'll have to give it some thought. The 4.5" angle grinder at Harbor Freight is just fine for home use and hits $15 after coupon regularly. Just don't be dumb and wear appropriate protections. 4.5" gets you access to a ton of consumables between cutting, grinding, sanding, wire brushes etc. Makes a way more flexible tool than that thing.
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Jul 23, 2017 15:42
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nitsuga posted:I'm a weekend warrior, so it's really upkeep/repair on the family cars. That all makes sense on the compressor front, I'll have to give it some thought. I'm a weekend warrior and I bought a Milwaukee M18 impact a few months ago. It's been great. I had a lovely compressor/gun before that rarely used because they were poo poo and a PITA. I can do whole jobs on a single charge (rebuild trucks motor, pull engine, remove heads) and there is no setup or hoses to drag around. It also works as well or better than a decent IR compressor and gun that my old roommate had. Being able to throw the gun and some sockets in a bag and go to help a friend out is super rad too. Unless you plan on running other tools, I wouldn't bother with a compressor. My M18 Fuel 1/2" came with two 5ah batteries and cost about what you would pay for that HF compressor and their good gun. Now the only thing I use my compressor for is filling tires so it's going up on Craigslist and getting replaced by a 12v pump.
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Jul 23, 2017 18:14
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Boys who love boys
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A compressor is still handy for a few cheap occasional-use tools like palm nailer or chisel, but it certainly wouldn't be my first purchase in the golden age of lithium.
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Jul 23, 2017 18:24
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nitsuga posted:Compared to something like this? - https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/21-gal-25-hp-125-psi-cast-iron-vertical-air-compressor-61454.html A good air impact, say an IR2235, will pull around 6 CFM at 90psi measured at the end of your hose. Thats more than those compressors can keep up with. I have a big 80 gallon, 2 stage, 240v 17.1 CFM @ 175psi compressor at home. I spent $1500 or so on the whole setup including wiring and hoses. The first time I used a dewalt 1/2" brushless impact I knew I had wasted $1200. They are really that good and a hell of a lot cheaper to get started with. There are 60v packs out now too for things like string trimmers and leaf blowers. You really can get the same power for a lot less money and with a smaller footprint.
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Jul 23, 2017 19:05
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OK, I relent. Before the winter tire rotation, I'll pick up a cordless brushless impact wrench. I'm guessing it's a flat-out no on the HF ones, right? I see a Dewalt is only a bit more, for a brand with a far better reputation. Also, I do have a 4 1/2" angle grinder. I always feel shaky with it and a little unsure of myself when I need it most. Guess I'll just have to practice a bit more with it. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Jul 23, 2017 |
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Jul 23, 2017 19:32
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First 20v is the same as 18v, the difference is DeWalt, Porter Cable, and HF are measuring max voltage instead of nominal voltage, otherwise the batteries are the exact same. The 20v earthquake is not any way more powerful than an 18v Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, Ryobi, etc. The HF might not be not complete poo poo, but it's still not a brand known for quality and durability. I am simply not seeing a lot of reviews for that 20v earthquake in part because it hasn't been out long. If anything the single reason I wouldn't get the HF is because there are no other tools that use that same battery. With a brand like Milwaukee or DeWalt, you can use the same batteries for dozens of other tools like sawzalls, circular saw, drills, radios, etc. The HF is going to be slightly more lovely, probably not dangerously lovely but still crap and the worst part is you're not buying into a massive line of power tools. DeWalt yellow is ugly, get Milwaukee red, buying cordless tools these days is literally just pick you're favorite color. and I dislike DeWalt's TWENTY VOLTS MOAR POWAH!!!! advertising
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Jul 23, 2017 20:55
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For rotating tires you don't need a monster 1/2" impact, trust me. DeWalt's 1/4" impact is great: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-XR-Brushless-3-Speed-1-4-in-Impact-Driver-Tool-Only-DCF887B/206521076 Every now and then a kit with that and a battery and charger goes on sale for $100 or so and is worth picking up. It can do up to about 150 foot lbs of torque which should break lugs unless they were stupidly overtorqued. It's really small and easy to get in a lot of places, and with the low speed it limits itself to 20 foot lbs which is basically hand tight so it makes fast work of many jobs. Even if you do outgrow this impact and need a bigger or beefier one it will still be handy to have for its small size and convenience.
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Jul 23, 2017 20:59
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That's an impact driver which is a different toll, even of you can use it to do what you describe it's really meant for driving screws fast. Half inch impact is what you want, totally owns for driving lag screws too
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Jul 23, 2017 21:57
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BraveUlysses posted:That's an impact driver which is a different toll, even of you can use it to do what you describe it's really meant for driving screws fast. Nope these new brushless 1/4" ones are totally great for car stuff. 150 foot lbs torque is no joke and it's small enough to cram into many more spots than those 1/2" drive monsters. Almost any bolt in your engine bay is torqued to 50 foot lbs or less, it's really just big suspension stuff that goes over 100 foot lbs.
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Jul 23, 2017 22:09
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mod sassinator posted:For rotating tires you don't need a monster 1/2" impact, trust me. DeWalt's 1/4" impact is great: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-XR-Brushless-3-Speed-1-4-in-Impact-Driver-Tool-Only-DCF887B/206521076 Every now and then a kit with that and a battery and charger goes on sale for $100 or so and is worth picking up. It can do up to about 150 foot lbs of torque which should break lugs unless they were stupidly overtorqued. It's really small and easy to get in a lot of places, and with the low speed it limits itself to 20 foot lbs which is basically hand tight so it makes fast work of many jobs. Even if you do outgrow this impact and need a bigger or beefier one it will still be handy to have for its small size and convenience. I want one of those too for confined spaces. Don't discount MOAR POWER though. I literally laughed out loud when I used mine on a crank pulley. I pulled the trigger, it it made loud noises for about two seconds and the the bolt was out of the crank. It made a dreaded task trivial. If I had a 1/4" driver I would have had to gently caress with breaker bars and sketchy methods of holding the crank. Anyone have any recommendations for a tire pressure gauge? I've been using a double-headed pen style one for ages, but it's not accurate/consistent anymore. I liked because I could get it around the rotors on a motorcycle, but that's less of a concern these days so I'm considering a digital one. Will those hold up to living in a map pocket / bottom of a tool bag? Are they like HF micrometers where the battery will be dead when you need it? Budget is $20-ish.
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Jul 23, 2017 22:09
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monsterzero posted:I want one of those too for confined spaces. Don't discount MOAR POWER though. I literally laughed out loud when I used mine on a crank pulley. I pulled the trigger, it it made loud noises for about two seconds and the the bolt was out of the crank. It made a dreaded task trivial. If I had a 1/4" driver I would have had to gently caress with breaker bars and sketchy methods of holding the crank. Agreed on sometimes needing more power, but in my experience I'm tightening and untightening 30-50 foot lbs bolts much, much more often than 150+ monster crank pulley bolts. A small 1/4" drive impact makes mundane jobs much faster. edit: Also I've never had a digital tire gauge last more than 6 months and still work or give good readings. The analog one from HF is great: https://www.harborfreight.com/tire-gauge-with-flex-hose-92955.html
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Jul 23, 2017 22:11
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1/4" is super handy yes, but it's not for lug nuts. A properly torqued lug that's been on for awhile will often take more than 125 ft-lb to break free. That's not even getting into breaking a lug that was installed by the average tire shop employee. Now, if you break them by hand then lift the vehicle and zip them off with a 1/4 impact, I can see that working.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:02
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There doesn't seem to be much of a happy medium--it's either 100 ft. lbs or 1000. I'll do suspension stuff, axles, timing belts, junkyard run, et cetera, so I think I'd rather have the power even at the cost of bulk.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:41
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nitsuga posted:There doesn't seem to be much of a happy medium--it's either 100 ft. lbs or 1000. I'll do suspension stuff, axles, timing belts, junkyard run, et cetera, so I think I'd rather have the power even at the cost of bulk.
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Jul 23, 2017 23:59
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If you want to do timing belts get the 1/2" and a ingrosoll rand "power socket" or lisle "harmonic balancer socket" in the correct size. Not even a breaker bar gets those sometimes.
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Jul 24, 2017 00:33
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Timing belts aren't a common job for me (those things are cool though), I was listing things I've done in the past. Anyway, I'll give it some thought, and maybe try to look at some too.
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Jul 24, 2017 01:42
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angryrobots posted:1/4" is super handy yes, but it's not for lug nuts. A properly torqued lug that's been on for awhile will often take more than 125 ft-lb to break free. That's not even getting into breaking a lug that was installed by the average tire shop employee.  My real world experience differs and a 1/4" impact is just fine for breaking lugs, even with wheels in the air. My Jeep and GTO are all torqued to 100 ft lb at the lugs and never had issues. Friend has the same impact and pulls his Toyota and Mercedes lugs off just fine with it.My big point is, a tiny $100 1/4 impact will always be handy in the garage. A monster 1/2" impact will sometimes be handy. Buy appropriately for your needs and it's not the end of the world to own both. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 03:28
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You might be thinking 3/8s because 1/4" will definitely twist off long before 100 ft/lbs.
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Jul 24, 2017 03:43
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Powershift posted:You might be thinking 3/8s because 1/4" will definitely twist off long before 100 ft/lbs. Negative, you must not be reading my posts. Check out the brushless 1/4" impact from DeWalt and others. It's a whole new ball game in cordless impacts these days with 18V. They have an honest 100+ ft lb of breaking torque. And it's for sure 1/4" because you have to buy a funky 1/4" to 1/2" hex impact adapter (DeWalt sells a nice set). If you last used a cordless impact even 2-4 years ago you haven't seen what the latest tools can do.
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Jul 24, 2017 03:49
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mod sassinator posted:Negative, you must not be reading my posts. Check out the brushless 1/4" impact from DeWalt and others. It's a whole new ball game in cordless impacts these days with 18V. They have an honest 100+ ft lb of breaking torque. And it's for sure 1/4" because you have to buy a funky 1/4" to 1/2" hex impact adapter (DeWalt sells a nice set). If you last used a cordless impact even 2-4 years ago you haven't seen what the latest tools can do. I have a Milwaukee M18 impact driver and have twisted/deformed/broken a few 1/4" bits and a 1/4" hex to 3/8 square adapter with it. I probably would not use with an adapter it to remove my 89ft lb wheels...though I've not tried.
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Jul 24, 2017 03:54
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You want an impact hardened one, like I said DeWalt makes a good one: https://m.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-1-4-in-to-1-2-in-Impact-Ready-Hex-Shank-Socket-Adapter/3213027
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Jul 24, 2017 03:57
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Why are we arguing about whether 1/4 is an adequate substitute for 1/2 when 3/8 is a great middle ground that fits regular sockets without a bunch of adapters? I mean, dang. The 1/4 bit driver isn't even any smaller than the 3/8 (except that I have it in 12v instead of 18v so the battery mount is smaller) What a weird point to harp on. 
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 03:58
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Because 3/8" cordless impacts aren't super common and are in a weird middle ground where they aren't as strong as 1/2" but nearly as big and bulky a tool. Go 1/4" and 1/2" (when/if you ever need it) is my point. $2-300 spent on 3/8 is kinda wasted. edit: The Milwaukee 1/4" is 1600 in lbs vs. the 3/8" is 2400 in lbs. They're both more or less the same and will break lugs all day long. Neither will put a dent in a crank pulley or tough suspension bolt. mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 04:03
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3/8 isn't common? Where? I don't think you're making apples-apples comparisons on price either. I'm seeing the m18 fuel 3/8 and 1/4 driver both close enough to the same price that it doesn't matter. Buy the 3/8 to bust nuts without losing torque to adapters. Add a 1/4 adapter if you want to drive a bunch of deck screws. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 04:07
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Go to any big box store and look at all the kits. It's 1/4" impact and drill everywhere. At the end of the day I'm just trying to stop someone from wasting money like I did on other tools. A friend showed me his 18v 1/4 impact earlier this year and I regretted every other cordless I had bought after getting one myself. One tool really can do drat near everything.
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Jul 24, 2017 04:13
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I guess I'd probably skip using the 1/4" impact driver and just have the 1/2" impact, because I don't think my impact driver is any more compact than the 1/2" impact gun once you factor in the length of the adapter bit to attach a socket. Probably lighter, but I'm usually more concerned with depth when working on cars. Plus the adapter eats up some of the torque output from the gun. But just for fun, I'll try it with 3/8" and 1/2" sockets on an impact-rated adapter at work tomorrow.
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Jul 24, 2017 04:16
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mod sassinator posted:
I'll grant after looking at specs that the dewalt brushless is rated about 35 ft-lbs higher than the brushed model (mine is the latter). ~25% more torque could definitely make the difference. I don't disagree about how handy it is, either way. I'm always finding a use for mine.
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Jul 24, 2017 04:53
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There's no independent test required to publish those torque numbers, so don't take them at face value, even between tools from the same color. Go watch the AvE vid where he tries to rig up a practical test. It's all marketing wank.
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Jul 24, 2017 05:03
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eddiewalker posted:There's no independent test required to publish those torque numbers, so don't take them at face value, even between tools from the same color. Or AvE is in past his depth on that one...
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Jul 24, 2017 05:07
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EVERYWHERE 
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Kind of a tangential question – are 12V impact guns worth a drat? I have a few of the brushless M12 tools and a bunch of batteries, so it’d be cheap to grab the 3/8 impact they offer, but reviews are scarce. I wouldn’t use it enough to justify a whole new 18V kit.
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Jul 24, 2017 05:47
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Fats posted:Kind of a tangential question – are 12V impact guns worth a drat? I have a few of the brushless M12 tools and a bunch of batteries, so it’d be cheap to grab the 3/8 impact they offer, but reviews are scarce. I wouldn’t use it enough to justify a whole new 18V kit. It's also a lot smaller and lighter than the M18, which means it gets used more, and my original reason for buying it was speed over the M18, which is not insignificantly increased.
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Jul 24, 2017 06:50
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I will second all of that. The M12 is definitely no air tool or 18V, but it hits hard enough and it is so much lighter and smaller than anything else.
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Jul 24, 2017 07:08
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Seminal Flu posted:Or AvE is in past his depth on that one... Whats wrong with the hydraulic cylinder torque comparison?
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Jul 24, 2017 12:27
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CarForumPoster posted:Whats wrong with the hydraulic cylinder torque comparison? He's going at it in a completely slap-assed way. Setting up the test, blowing some air through the tool and saying "welp, 200pounds on my gauge ain't nothin' like the 1200pounds it claims, must be shenanigans," when he hasn't even tested out the rig yet. He needs to get some numbers with a straight breaker bar with weights hung on it so that he can see what is actually showing on his gauge, as he's taking a direct gauge reading as a result, meanwhile the force is going through a mechanical/hydraulic conversion through any number of modifying factors (hurr, let's just stick a stack of washers in here, that won't make no differences). And the impact-vs.-impact gun made for good youtube clicks, but showed absolutely nothing. Air impact guns, by definition, have their power focused into short bursts. Who the gently caress knows the rate of hammer blows per x amount of airflow, much less anything else... a ton of variables could make the Earthquake spin the Snap-On, or vise-versa.
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Jul 24, 2017 13:19
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Yeah, he lost a subscriber after he tears apart another channel who is using the industry standard test method and equipment, creates his own and says its better without validating anything. He doesn't even have a good air supply.
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Jul 24, 2017 13:52
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Plus he even talks about how the guns are biased for removal torque and only tested them in forward and demonstrated how its so easy to bias a test of an air tool that he unknowingly did it himself, but clearly the other guy is a shill. I like a lot of his videos but some of his conclusions are pretty dubious and that particular video was complete garbage.
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Jul 24, 2017 14:07
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