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spog posted:Aren't you supposed to lock the brakes in thick snow? Yes but not when there's other poo poo around. Michael Scott posted:Well a plus with a dealer is they give you a loaner. So if they tell you it would be free, you'll have to evaluate how much your time is worth. Since you're not in the US, I imagine the warranty is even longer. Getting a loaner is not universal. Godholio fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jul 24, 2017 |
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Jul 24, 2017 22:15
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It looks like the dealer is out anyway- 3 years is up, and it's a few thousand past the 60K warranty. I'll talk to the guy in town to see what he thinks might be best. I'll bring up the idea of the smoke and electrical tests and see what he thinks. It appears that the parts are relatively inexpensive to replace, but if it isn't working out I can try to take it elsewhere further away.
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Jul 24, 2017 22:22
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Haha drat car companies are incredibly good at calculating that warranty time and dialing in the cost vs. reliability of components.
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Jul 24, 2017 22:30
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cods posted:Please tell me if I am crazy. Find a used 2nd gen Prius from some place that doesn't value them (not California or NYC). They're boring as gently caress but good on gas and incredibly reliable.
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Jul 24, 2017 22:44
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The Door Frame posted:I took it back out and bench tested it, and still only the solenoid engaged. I decided to throw in a connection between the spade connector and grounding post before I returned it, which finally got both solenoid and starter to engage. Are you saying that it works perfectly fine when you add an additional connection to ground, but not when it is installed in the car? I vaguely recall some starters (or alternators?) that had an issue where the mounting points were isolated from the rest of unit, but the car's design required them to be used as an earthing point. If that is the case, then adding an earthing strap was the solution.
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Jul 24, 2017 23:08
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Ok, you guys are making a lot more sense. Please keep recommendations coming. $3-4k boring DD(I like a manual but beggars can't be choosers).
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Jul 24, 2017 23:12
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Civic, Camry, Accord will all be good to look for due to sales volume making for a high-supply used market.
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Jul 24, 2017 23:16
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spog posted:Are you saying that it works perfectly fine when you add an additional connection to ground, but not when it is installed in the car? Exactly what I'm saying. So it was really that simple? Man, I feel dumb
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Jul 24, 2017 23:21
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Aren't used Priuses ticking time bombs because of weird brake stuff and dying battery packs? Several pages back, there's a good discussion about modern truck reliability. One that didn't get mentioned was the Honda truck. How's it doing?
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Jul 24, 2017 23:23
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tactlessbastard posted:Aren't used Priuses ticking time bombs because of weird brake stuff and dying battery packs? No weird brake stuff? Battery packs may need replacement around 150k-200k, and it costs $2k-2.5k.
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Jul 24, 2017 23:28
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cods posted:Ok, you guys are making a lot more sense. Please keep recommendations coming. $3-4k boring DD(I like a manual but beggars can't be choosers). At that price, the individual car will probably matter more than the make or model. Look for one that's been well maintained and doesn't have any drivetrain issues.
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Jul 24, 2017 23:29
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Michael Scott posted:No weird brake stuff? Battery packs may need replacement around 150k-200k, and it costs $2k-2.5k. The master cylinder costs a good chunk of the value of the vehicle to have changed (because the brakes are fully drive-by-wire to let the regen braking work, with a mechanical emergency override) so you better hope nothing fucks up with yours. Finding a used second gen with a fairly recently replaced battery pack for ~$4k isn't too hard, though. They're good appliance cars, just super boring.
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Jul 24, 2017 23:45
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The Door Frame posted:Exactly what I'm saying. So it was really that simple? Man, I feel dumb You could always try a continuity test from the mounting points and compare it to the original unit. Don't feel dumb: I remember this well because when it happened, it was a hell of a surprise to the mechanic as it was supposed to be an exact replacement and it took ages to figure out (pretty sure it was an alternator, but the same theory applies)
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Jul 24, 2017 23:55
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Michael Scott posted:Haha drat car companies are incredibly good at calculating that warranty time and dialing in the cost vs. reliability of components. Yeah, it seemed a little timely Anyway, is there any danger in me driving this for a while? I'm planning a trip to another part of the province soon and will be driving quite a bit...
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Jul 25, 2017 00:22
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spog posted:You could always try a continuity test from the mounting points and compare it to the original unit. Continuity test, like testing for resistance with a multimeter?
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Jul 25, 2017 00:26
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cods posted:Please tell me if I am crazy. I'll second / third / whatever the idea that a Volvo 240 really isn't a great choice anymore. They're just plain old now and you'll always be chasing some sort of issue.
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Jul 25, 2017 00:30
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Professor Shark posted:Yeah, it seemed a little timely No, it's perfectly safe. The only danger you'll face is failing emissions tests. As I suggested earlier, try greasing the threads of the gas cap with something as a temporary fix if it's a concern.
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Jul 25, 2017 00:48
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Michael Scott posted:Haha drat car companies are incredibly good at calculating that warranty time and dialing in the cost vs. reliability of components. Story is back in the day Ford would go out to junkyards, find whatever parts were intact on cars and say 'we can cheap out on these'
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Jul 25, 2017 00:52
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Professor Shark posted:It looks like the dealer is out anyway- 3 years is up, and it's a few thousand past the 60K warranty. FWIW, p0449 on a late model GM is referring to an electrical issue with the evap vent solenoid or the wiring going to it. It's a solenoid on the charcoal canister or gas tank. I ran into the same code on my Ion, it wound up being corrosion in the plug to that solenoid. The solenoid itself is cheap enough to replace as well. Michael Scott posted:No weird brake stuff? Battery packs may need replacement around 150k-200k, and it costs $2k-2.5k. The master cylinder for a Prius also includes the booster (in this case, an electric accumulator instead) and ABS pump. It's a ~$2500 job when it shits out. They don't poo poo out often, but I know 3 people who've been bit by that so far (to be fair, all 3 of those cars get used for delivery/courier work, so they see a lot more use than a typical car).
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Jul 25, 2017 01:02
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So here's my stuck hood hinges. I did try hitting the hinge much harder with the dead blow but 1) it still wasn't really that hard, I'd need probably a heavy wooden stake and a real sledge hammer 2) I reeeaaally want to make sure that there's not a "trick" instead.  And it seems I was full of poo poo about never using the stops before, here's a rando internet truck with a happy hood:  So, I think the hinge is hyper extended, in particular, in the second picture, I think the bottom hinge has gone past the top hinge? Here's the choices as I see them: 1) Figure out some smart way to unstick the hinge, like figure out exactly where to bump it/hit it (not a reliable plan) 2)hit the hing really really hard. Not a great plan and I have a bad habit of breaking things I'm working on when I get frustrated, so let's not decide "the same but more" is the solution. 3) unbolt the hinge from the hood. Now, if I do choice 3, wont the bolts strip once they're almost out? Might the hing even close up so fast, or the bolts come out so fast, that it hurts my hand? As far as the actual weight of the hood itself, myself and my roommate, two grown men, would hold the hood up (and well away from our teeth  ) while a third person loosens the bolts.
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Jul 25, 2017 01:45
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This might belong elsewhere but I thought this would be an okay place to start. I have a 2013 Honda Accord I bought new in Texas in July 2013 and am making payments through America Honda Finance on. It will be paid for next July. I am moving to Washington state at the end of the week. Washington state requires the title of the vehicle for out of state registrations. However I've had a name change since I originally bought the vehicle. Honda Finance says they won't change the name on the title for me even with appropriate court order and plenty of identification evidence. I contacted Washington state department of licensing and they were a bit baffled that Honda was refusing to change the name. However they said that if I have the title and the court order I should be okay to register when I get to Washington. Anyone know why Honda is refusing? Washington seems to think it's strange but Honda says they just can't.
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Jul 25, 2017 02:51
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Jack B Nimble posted:
You're right in that the bottom has gone past the top, that little bend in the bottom is probably supposed to be the stop for the top one. What I would do is remove the bottom bolt first while having the hood supported by a 2x4 or something. I'm not sure about the strength of that spring or if it's in any shape to spring the hinge back into a normal position if you remove the bolt. My gut instinct is to say if it hasn't snapped back yet, it probably won't without some convincing. If it's a concern anyway, put a piece of wood or something in the slot by the bolt to keep the hinge in position should it let go. Once you've got the bottom removed and you've determined that the spring isn't out to kill you, you could try just pulling on the bottom part of the hinge to coerce the top part back over the stop. A hammer might help if it's really hard or maybe have a buddy use a big ol' flatblade driver to kind of finagle the two pieces around each other.
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Jul 25, 2017 03:24
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lol internet. posted:For the car cigarettes lighter power source, is there different standards for the plug? Deteriorata posted:Yeah, that's been standardized for decades. Either you're not inserting it properly or it's defective. Okay.. so I got a replacement unit and still the same issue. Could the product just be that lovely? I tried it on a 2007 and a 2014 Toyota so I can't imagine it's the car sockets as I use other things like USB chargers.
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Jul 25, 2017 04:39
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Definitely hyperextended. Here's full extension:   If you have a couple of tiedown straps, you might try something like this on each spring.  Which would be gentler than whacking the back side of the spring with a hammer. e: if you're taking of the spring assemblies, just use a screwdriver to lever the spring  out of the little notch it sits in.  Just make sure you wrap a towel around the spring when you lever it the last bit out of the notch. joat mon fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 04:49
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lol internet. posted:Okay.. so I got a replacement unit and still the same issue. Could the product just be that lovely? I tried it on a 2007 and a 2014 Toyota so I can't imagine it's the car sockets as I use other things like USB chargers. I'm guessing it's really that lovely. The standard has been around since 1960, with slight modifications since. The barrel of the plug should be less than 20 mm, with spring contacts along the side to make up the gap and hold it in place.
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Jul 25, 2017 04:53
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Yes, it's just that poo poo.
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Jul 25, 2017 04:58
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Jack B Nimble posted:So here's my stuck hood hinges. I did try hitting the hinge much harder with the dead blow but 1) it still wasn't really that hard, I'd need probably a heavy wooden stake and a real sledge hammer 2) I reeeaaally want to make sure that there's not a "trick" instead... You need to get that bent stop back forward ahead of the upper strut. I would NOT remove the hinge to do this. You want to use a long (+5') piece of 1x2 or 2x3 & pry it forward at the joint, using the firewall as a levering base. OR Joat mon 's suggestion: If you have a couple of tiedown straps, you might try something like this on each spring. Hitting it won't work as the spring is absorbing most of the force of the blow. Once to get it back off & closing normally, you can try & bend that tab back to 90-degrees, but it'll remain weak...but strong enough to retain the spring if you remove the unit to replace with another from a yard. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 13:30
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PainterofCrap posted:You need to get that bent stop back forward ahead of the upper strut. I would NOT remove the hinge to do this. Yeah, I have straps and will try that, sounds like just what I wanted, thanks all. I thiiink my friends are all watching the new Spider-Man movie tonight but I'll try it soon and post then.
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Jul 25, 2017 13:36
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The Door Frame posted:Continuity test, like testing for resistance with a multimeter? Yeah: bang it across a few places and listen for the beep. I'd suggest that there is one of three answers here 1) the new unit doesn't have the mounting points going to ground and the design says it should: bang on a beefy earthing strap 2) old/new units are supposed to have said strap, but for some reason, you car is missing it 3) (possible, as it is an old Fiat). The unit grounds just fine to the mounting points, but your body has so much rust on it, it can't make a good electrical connection (wire brush it clean)
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Jul 25, 2017 13:40
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I've got a 2014 WRX. I'm going to be away for about a month and a half and I'm curious what I should do if anything for it before I leave. It's garage kept so weather won't be an issue but theirs nowhere for me to plug a battery tender in. My wife can't drive stick but she could certainly start it, and if necessary I could find a trusted person to come drive my car around the block every so often if that's a good idea. I have also read about not using the parking break due to the pads fusing, so should I chalk the tires? Also what about tire flatspots?
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Jul 25, 2017 17:17
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I leave my car parked during winter, maybe put a little fuel stabilizer just to be safe but for a month and a half you won't have any flat spots. Your brake pads won't fuse either but I would just stick to the first click or so. Just take the battery out and leave it somewhere warm, for a month and a half you won't have to start it up at all. Cage fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jul 25, 2017 |
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Jul 25, 2017 17:23
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2000 Toyota Avalon. It's been warm here lately (high 80's/low 90's) and the car has been fine off the line and in upper RPM, but very flat in the middle of the rev range. It is cooler today, ~65* and it pulled well all through the rev range. No lights or errors, nothing showing wrt variable valve timing issues. What could the problem be (other than it's a 2000 Avalon)?
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Jul 25, 2017 17:31
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EVERYWHERE 
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Cage posted:I leave my car parked during winter, maybe put a little fuel stabilizer just to be safe but for a month and a half you won't have any flat spots. Your brake pads won't fuse either but I would just stick to the first click or so. It should be plenty warm in august though yea?
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Jul 25, 2017 17:46
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Oh yeah I wasn't really thinking, yeah as long as you're sure you don't have any minuscule power draws or anything it'll be fine. I had a weird problem in the mustang where I would get a bunch of dried acid on the battery leads so I just disconnected it to be safe.
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Jul 25, 2017 17:50
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AcidRonin posted:I've got a 2014 WRX. I'm going to be away for about a month and a half and I'm curious what I should do if anything for it before I leave. It's garage kept so weather won't be an issue but theirs nowhere for me to plug a battery tender in. My wife can't drive stick but she could certainly start it, and if necessary I could find a trusted person to come drive my car around the block every so often if that's a good idea. I have also read about not using the parking break due to the pads fusing, so should I chalk the tires? Also what about tire flatspots? Don't start it if it's not going to be driven long enough to get the oil up to temperature, it does more harm than good. Month and a half it'll honestly be fine. Pull the battery and put it on a tender if you want.
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Jul 25, 2017 18:24
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Breakfast Feud posted:Was it a chain/franchise type shop? They can be bad for telling you their reasoning, or they have a rule where they have to do uppers and lowers together so it won't matter which it is because you'll be buying both anyway. Either way, if you drive your car daily I'd expect maybe a 4-5 day time frame (possibly less if your commute is long) where if the sound doesn't come back then it's the control arm. After about 4 days of driving I wouldn't be too surprised if the original sound came back because there's less grease. It was not a chain but I have a follow up question. Please keep in mind I don't know practically anything about mechanical stuff with vehicles. Another mechanic quoted me 225 to replace both the upper and lower control arms if it's just the arms and not the ball joints too. Should I replace those as well/is it not necessary? I imagine if they're damaged I would but I don't wanna get something unneeded done. As far as I know they are not damaged. I'm trying to purchase the arms on Amazon so I can take advantage of my gift cards. Does anyone have any advice on which ones to purchase? My 2006 wrangler sport is completely stock and I have no plans on upgrades. Sorry for the dumb questions but I'm at a loss on what to do.
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Jul 25, 2017 18:32
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This is probably a really stupid question, but that's what the thread title says, so here we go! The byproducts of combustion are CO2 and water, right? So how come the car just dumps the water out the tailpipe instead of collecting it? I want to drink a glass of exhaust water. According to the wikipedos, The combustion of octane follows this reaction: 2 C8H18 + 25 O2 → 16 CO2 + 18 H2O. Molecular weights of the above reagents are C8H18 114, O2 32, CO2 44, H2O 18; therefore 1 kg of fuel reacts with 3.51 kg of oxygen to produce 3.09 kg of carbon dioxide and 1.42 kg of water. So it sounds like there's a sizeable amount of water available for collection...
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Jul 26, 2017 03:45
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JewKiller 3000 posted:The byproducts of combustion are CO2 and water, right? So how come the car just dumps the water out the tailpipe instead of collecting it? I want to drink a glass of exhaust water. It’s mostly vapour and it’s dirty. Where would you put it and what would you do with it?
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Jul 26, 2017 03:55
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spog posted:I think this sums it up well: Just wanted to report back that it was indeed the alternator, and this video helped greatly — the internal regulator was shot so it was putting out like 11v at idle and 16 at 1500 rpm, etc. Replacing it was easy as hell, too, especially with a new set of bolts. I could get used to doing heavy maintenance on my own cars.
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Jul 26, 2017 03:56
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bennyfactor posted:I could get used to doing heavy maintenance on my own cars. one of us Virginia Slams posted:It was not a chain but I have a follow up question. The Wrangler, with a solid (and driven) front axle, requires a good deal of work to pull the ball joints. That's probably why the shop specifically excluded them.
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Jul 26, 2017 04:31
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