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CapnBry posted:EDIT2: Aha! Change Internal Thin Wall Type from Gap Fill to Allow Single Extrusion Fill. FIXED! Can you add a screenshot of that for comparison to the one where it didn't work?
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Jul 25, 2017 20:49
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When you purchase S3D, do you get upgrades for some fixed amount of time, or what? I don't see it specified on their site.
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Jul 25, 2017 21:35
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Upgrades forever
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Jul 25, 2017 21:39
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:When you purchase S3D, do you get upgrades for some fixed amount of time, or what? I don't see it specified on their site. Upgrades forever/as long as S3D exists as a company that continues to update their software. So, you know, if you bought it way back in 2014 or whatever you've seen a lot of improvements, where relative newbies aren't seeing that much. This is the biggest update in a while.
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Jul 25, 2017 21:46
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Been playing with Flex PLA on a 0.8 mm nozzle. Turns out it prints real easy. Trump stress balls for everyone!
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Jul 26, 2017 00:26
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moron izzard posted:I thought extrusion width was entirely dependent on nozzle size? The nozzle diameter defines flow rate and a theoretical minimum feature size. The actual width is set by how much plastic you extrude. Reminder:  You need the layers to be mechanically squished into each other in order for them to bond. If you were just extruding 0.4mm wide circular traces, there'd be no squish (left) and the layers wouldn't bond. So instead you overextrude while maintaining a layer height less than the nozzle diameter, and the plastic spreads out into a flattened oval/rounded rectangle shape. The combination of layer height and plastic feed defines how far it spreads, and therefore the extrusion width. You can't have an extrusion narrower than the nozzle diameter or wider than the flat that surrounds the nozzle bore. I've found that one of the most critical factors for tuning print quality is the extrusion width. The automagic logic doesn't always pick the appropriate settings. Start with 113% of your nozzle diameter (so for 0.4mm nozzle, 0.45mm traces) and see how that works. Note also how important the nozzle flat is to getting appropriate trace squish! If you don't have a flat that's wide enough, you won't be able to fuse the trace fully, and the edges may roll up above the intended layer height. If you look at official E3D nozzles, for instance, you'll see that the flat on the end varies with the diameter. If you drill out a nozzle yourself, or buy the cheap chinese versions, you may need to carefully sand a wider flat onto the bottom to get proper performance. I had to do that with my chinese Volcano knockoff. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jul 26, 2017 |
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Jul 26, 2017 00:26
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Sagebrush posted:I've found that one of the most critical factors for tuning print quality is the extrusion width. The automagic logic doesn't always pick the appropriate settings. Start with 113% of your nozzle diameter (so for 0.4mm nozzle, 0.45mm traces) and see how that works. Holy poo poo, I just did this and all the tiny little gaps on my skins fill in perfectly now.
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Jul 26, 2017 05:45
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Another day, another new failure mode! Just got a MINTEMP error (marlin firmware) a couple of hours into a print. Now, when I tell the printer to pre-heat, the temperature rises normally until I get to roughly 150C, at which point I get a MINTEMP error and it shuts itself down. Apparently MINTEMP kicks in if the thermistor detects a value under 15C, which is uhh, weird. Not looking forward to fixing this one, as I'm going to have to disassemble most of the printer to get to the enclosure.
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Jul 26, 2017 07:47
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Splode posted:Another day, another new failure mode! Just got a MINTEMP error (marlin firmware) a couple of hours into a print. Now, when I tell the printer to pre-heat, the temperature rises normally until I get to roughly 150C, at which point I get a MINTEMP error and it shuts itself down. Apparently MINTEMP kicks in if the thermistor detects a value under 15C, which is uhh, weird.
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Jul 26, 2017 08:01
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My bed isn't heated, so there's only one thermistor it could be. An intermittent connection would explain what I'm seeing. I guess I'm doing some major disassembly tomorrow! edit: just left the printer on and idling for a few hours, and no error. So it only happens when the hotend is heating. Could still be a loose connection caused by thermal expansion, but geez it's going to be tough to diagnose a problem that only manifests at 100 degrees celcius. Splode fucked around with this message at 12:22 on Jul 26, 2017 |
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Jul 26, 2017 08:06
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Marlin's thermal protection settings have gotten really zealous. Your error may have triggered if the hot end fell 4 degrees below target temperature for 40 seconds (the default for current Marlin) code:What I ended up doing is insulating the heat block with a silicone sock and doing a PID autotune procedure to get my hot end temps stable.
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Jul 26, 2017 13:23
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On the one printer I had that ran Marlin (Robo3D R1) I changed the protection period to 60 seconds and that solved the problem. Probably something to be said about the system not reacting fast enough within 40 seconds (with PID tuning) to bring temps back within 4 degrees of target, but there you go.
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Jul 26, 2017 13:27
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Sagebrush posted:The nozzle diameter defines flow rate and a theoretical minimum feature size. The actual width is set by how much plastic you extrude. This reminds me, I'd like to find data that shows suggestions for the optimal range of extrusion height for different nozzle sizes. If I have a .4mm nozzle, what resolution range can I likely reliably print at?
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Jul 26, 2017 15:02
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I thought it was 25-75% of the diameter, so .1-.3mm heights in this case. In my experience, .05 and .35 are like the edges of reliability for PLA and PETG.
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Jul 26, 2017 15:18
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Revol posted:This reminds me, I'd like to find data that shows suggestions for the optimal range of extrusion height for different nozzle sizes. If I have a .4mm nozzle, what resolution range can I likely reliably print at? http://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/#optimallayer Take the data from that calculator and adjust your layer heights based on tuyop posted:I thought it was 25-75% of the diameter, so .1-.3mm heights in this case. In my experience, .05 and .35 are like the edges of reliability for PLA and PETG. As a "ballpark" to figure out what to use as the "real" layer height in your slicer. In most cases .3mm for the "rough" layer is fine as is, but when you try to do finer layers (.1 or .2) you need to actually adjust it to a value that lands on a "full step" to minimize errors.
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Jul 26, 2017 15:23
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Megabound posted:Get a Prusa i3 Mk2S. Reliable, easy to use, good customer support and big enough for most projects. My pre-built Mk2S showed up last night. Plugged it in, ran the calibration, and started printing. So far I've just printed small stuff like benchy and the tree frog, but it's printing great. SlayVus posted:But it'll take 2 months before he'll receive either printer and he won't get the multi material upgrade until 2018. They've cut the waiting time down for the assembled models to one month, and then about a week and a half shipping including customs. So far the wait's been entirely worth it.
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Jul 26, 2017 18:27
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Can you add a screenshot of that for comparison to the one where it didn't work? Original:  With Internal Single Extrusion internal thin wall type:  Note that but the internal and external "single extrusion thin wall" modes only work with perimeters. So if I turn down the number of perimeters from 3 to 2, I get the first image again because S3D wants to put INFILL in that gap and infill doesn't fit. Seems like a pretty big oversight to not support single 50%-200% width extrusions as a solid fill method (which Slic3r does as part of their gap fill). I might add it printed pretty well. The model itself is a real ballbuster with 90 degree overhangs, single width walls, a detailed section covered in triangles that come to thin points. The 50% width extrusion came out ok but didn't bond very well so the part ended up pretty brittle in that area. duffmensch posted:Since the new season of Rick and Morty is coming up, I decided to make a portal gun and butter bot to break in some new parts CapnBry fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jul 26, 2017 |
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Jul 26, 2017 19:01
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CapnBry posted:Sure! Hm... It's probably one of those weird out-of-the-way settings somewhere... Do you think the setting circled in Red could be the issue?  I'd change that to 0 and see if it puts infill in there. quote:Nice! What does the butter bot do? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ht-ZyJOV2k
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Jul 26, 2017 19:12
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Hm... It's probably one of those weird out-of-the-way settings somewhere... I'd change that to 0 and see if it puts infill in there.  Haha oh believe me, I am aware of the butter bot's purpose. :-D
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Jul 26, 2017 19:42
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I've often fiddled perimeter settings for models with thin walls, hoping for a non-void in thin areas. It'd sure be nice not to worry about that.
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Jul 26, 2017 20:17
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Upgraded my Chinese i3 clone to a real e3dv6 and bowden setup. Printed a whole new x carriage and fan mounts all in translucent green PETG. I think it looks badass now, and it's dialed in really well, too. First Benchy came out really clean with only a few indicators that I need to tune up my retraction a tiny bit and maybe lower the temp by 5C. Best $80 I've spent in the printing realm so far.
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Jul 26, 2017 22:25
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CapnBry posted:Nice! I've wanted to build a portal gun but then I went down the rabbit hole of wanting to make the top clear and have lit plasma in there, and a LED display, and so on and so on until it became such a huge project I never started. Yours looks great. What does the butter bot do? I decided to keep it simple (because my kids steal most of my prints) and it's doing what it was meant to  - holding pens and sometimes rings.I almost went down the same road with the portal gun but figured I'd make a simple version first because my kids steal most of my prints. I left the supports in place and the green filament is semi transparent so it looks like there's something in there if people look at it in bright light.
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Jul 27, 2017 02:54
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Thermistor adventures continue: I've removed the thermistor from the heating assembly (terrifyingly easy to do in the end, I'm bloody glad Marlin has software runaway thermal detection built in). When I give it a wiggle, I get my MINTEMP error. I am hoping to god that this is the thermistor shorting, and not a broken internal cable, but I do have a spare thermistor that came with the kit if it comes to that. I suspect it is a broken cable because I think a short would read as a huge temperature, not a tiny one. I'm documenting this ITT as I hope my trials and tribulations will be useful to someone else one day. The internet is full of 3D printing questions with either no answer or the infamous "NVM Fixed it". EDIT: replaced thermistor with the spare thoughtfully (but ominously) provided in the original kit. Of course, the original thermistor cable was packaged in with every other cable from the control unit. So rather than trying to remove that, I uhh, bodged it.  Printer is working now, we'll see how it goes. I'm a little concerned that the printer somehow damaged the thermistor cable in normal operation, hopefully this isn't a regular occurence. Thanks for your help guys. I left the firmware alone because bypassing a hardware problem in software is always a bad idea. Splode fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jul 27, 2017 |
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Jul 27, 2017 04:10
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Splode posted:Thanks for your help guys. I left the firmware alone because bypassing a hardware problem in software is always a bad idea. Thanks for the update, good work replacing the thermistor. If you were dealing with a broken wire that could actually be really dangerous because marlin would read zero celsius on the hot end, and turn on the heater until it reached target temperature which wouldn't happen because of the broken thermistor.
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Jul 27, 2017 05:23
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Not if thermal runaway protections are enabled. That's been standard in Marlin since 2015 though so I'm not sure where you're getting that from.
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Jul 27, 2017 06:52
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Yeah I'm glad that is in the firmware as there isn't much securing the thermistor in the hot end. Just finished an 8 1/2 hour print with no issues, very happy.
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Jul 27, 2017 16:28
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I have a heated bed, topped with glass and painter's tape. When it is recommended to print with a material at a certain bed temp (say, PLA around 60C), is that strictly just setting the bed to that temp, or assuring that the surface that the material is actually being applied to reaches that temp? If I heat my bed to 60C, the glass bed will never reach that. I think I'm usually at a 10C deficit. I ordered wood PLA off Amazon for $20 that should arrive today, excited to try it out. (The page gets Fs by Amazon review checkers, but the price is too good to pass up.) I'm also looking forward to getting my .8mm nozzle.
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Jul 28, 2017 14:23
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Revol posted:I have a heated bed, topped with glass and painter's tape. When it is recommended to print with a material at a certain bed temp (say, PLA around 60C), is that strictly just setting the bed to that temp, or assuring that the surface that the material is actually being applied to reaches that temp? If I heat my bed to 60C, the glass bed will never reach that. I think I'm usually at a 10C deficit. As far as I know you want the bed to be as close to your intended temperature as possible, so when you have more stuff between the bed heater and your actual print surface adjust temperatures to make the print surface the right temperature.
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Jul 28, 2017 14:33
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Revol posted:I have a heated bed, topped with glass and painter's tape. When it is recommended to print with a material at a certain bed temp (say, PLA around 60C), is that strictly just setting the bed to that temp, or assuring that the surface that the material is actually being applied to reaches that temp? If I heat my bed to 60C, the glass bed will never reach that. I think I'm usually at a 10C deficit. The actual temperature on the bed. PLA is a bad example because you can print it cold, so lets pretend you're using ABS. If the bed is even a little bit too cold, the print will cool way too fast and lift badly. I've seen machines that have a thick layer of protective coating between the bed and the part, and as a result, it was completely unable to print ABS nicely. The tricky part is going to be to making sure that when the corners of the bed are an acceptable temperature, the centre isn't too hot.
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Jul 28, 2017 14:47
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Revol posted:I have a heated bed, topped with glass and painter's tape. When it is recommended to print with a material at a certain bed temp (say, PLA around 60C), is that strictly just setting the bed to that temp, or assuring that the surface that the material is actually being applied to reaches that temp? If I heat my bed to 60C, the glass bed will never reach that. I think I'm usually at a 10C deficit. I printed PLA onto a heated glass bed with tape before I knew what I was doing and it was almost impossible to get off. Now I just use tape & rubbing alcohol with no heat & it seems to be a good balance between being too adhesive to remove and losing adhesion mid-print.
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Jul 28, 2017 15:41
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Nevets posted:I printed PLA onto a heated glass bed with tape before I knew what I was doing and it was almost impossible to get off. Now I just use tape & rubbing alcohol with no heat & it seems to be a good balance between being too adhesive to remove and losing adhesion mid-print. Swap that glass out for a sheet of PEI and you won't have to mess with tape ever again.
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Jul 28, 2017 15:49
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Or spray some aquanet on that sheet of glass, not too much, 1 or 2 passes across the glass from about a foot away is sufficient. Print a bunch of test prints to find the proper temps. Did this 6 months ago, haven't had to change settings and I can print 40 hour prints without worry of them slipping or warping. I also have the extruder just above the glass about the width of a piece of paper and over extrude the first layer with no fan at 110% at 20mm/s. If the glass is prefectly level with the extruder the bottom of the print will come out smooth and glass-like. Wait till the glass and print cool down until you try to remove the print or you could leave the bottom couple layers on the glass, or worse, shatter the glass. Once its cooled down it usually takes a couple taps with a paint scraper to either pop the print clean off, or enough that I can get the scraper under a corner and as I slide towards the other side the print will pop off then.
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Jul 28, 2017 16:11
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Nevets posted:I printed PLA onto a heated glass bed with tape before I knew what I was doing and it was almost impossible to get off. I don't have any problems, as long as I put a little patience into removing the part with my spatula tool. Sometimes the paint tears, but it's just painter's tape, so who cares?
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Jul 28, 2017 16:16
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Beta tester review of the Monoprice Mini delta is up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qHEP9T2OzA
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Jul 28, 2017 19:37
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PEI is amazing stuff. I had to adjust my bed down a touch because adhesion is so good it actually split layers trying to remove one of my prints.
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Jul 28, 2017 19:56
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Beta tester review of the Monoprice Mini delta is up. I need this.
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Jul 28, 2017 20:56
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CloFan posted:I need this. It's shipping to early bird backers today (some of them even got them today, the fuckers). I backed the October batch in case there were QC issues that need straightening out before then, but I won't complain if they ship sooner. One of the updates said they got 600 units in earlier this week, and with 1594 backers on the campaign, that should knock a pretty big chunk out of fulfilling the campaign promises. loving Monoprice is going to murder all low priced crowd-funded 3d printers with this thing.
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Jul 28, 2017 21:21
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Mine will be at my house on Wed barring any logistical fuckups.
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Jul 28, 2017 21:57
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AlexDeGruven posted:Mine will be at my house on Wed barring any logistical fuckups. Please take a bunch of pics as you unbox it and share them. The hype around this thing is really high and if it gets even half of the promised stuff right it could be the new "Babby's 1st 3d printer" candidate.
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Jul 28, 2017 22:00
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 03:30 |
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Maybe they'll even ship to Australia. Hey a man can dream.
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Jul 28, 2017 23:21
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