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honda whisperer posted:I'm looking at brz / ft86 / frs etc as a new or possibly used car. They don't seem to have any massive issues from a quick google search, have I missed anything? Take this as you will.
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Jul 29, 2017 23:26
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Mister Kingdom posted:Take this as you will. Edmunds TCO says a Subaru BRZ has higher repair and maintenance costs than a FIAT 500, and is similar in costs to a Mini. The writer's experience seems pretty typical. High operating costs can be worth it if the car makes up for it in other ways, but in this case I don't think it does.
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Jul 29, 2017 23:51
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Deteriorata posted:Most transmissions leave 1st gear unsynchronized specifically to make it difficult to shift into while you're moving, as you mentioned. Every car I've owned with a manual did have a synchro on 1st, but even still, that particular synchro usually isn't designed to bring the speed of the gearbox up to downshift into 1st... it's there more so you can go into 1st easily from a stop without waiting a few seconds for the gears to spin down after you step on the clutch. Reverse, on the other hand.. of all the manuals I've owned (7), 3 of them had a synchro on reverse (01 Honda Accord, 99 Nissan Altima, 06 Saturn Ion). The others (95 + 96 Honda Civic, two 88 Honda Accords) didn't - had to shift into 1st before reverse if you didn't want to grind (or stand on the clutch for 5+ seconds before trying reverse). I still hit 1st before reverse just from muscle memory from all those years of Civics and Accords.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 30, 2017 |
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Jul 30, 2017 01:44
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I'm gonna buy a loaded CPO Lincoln MKC. Am I an idiot? Seems like a good deal IMO.
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Jul 30, 2017 21:48
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thesurlyspringKAA posted:I'm gonna buy a loaded CPO Lincoln MKC. Am I an idiot? Seems like a good deal IMO. It's a segment full of functionally equivalent cars, with personal preference being the prime determinant. If you like it, have fun.
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Jul 30, 2017 22:06
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Deteriorata posted:It's a segment full of functionally equivalent cars, with personal preference being the prime determinant. If you like it, have fun. Excellent, thank you.
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Jul 30, 2017 22:14
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RE: the talk of locking up your brakes from a few pages back. This is my opinion, feel free to call me a fuckwad or whatever. ABS brakes can't beat proper threshold braking for stopping distances. Problem is how many people can actually do that? You take a driving school for a weekend and by the end of it you can do it properly, after trying it a hundred times in a row. But what about 6 months later when you haven't done it since? In your own car, not the one that you were driving at the driving school. You probably can't. The average person might be able, in a parking lot after a few tries, do it properly, but when you actually need to do it, like you're barreling down on a group of nuns crossing the street with a bunch of kittens and retarded kids in tow, can you actually do it in that panic/emergency situation? I doubt it. If you're an auto-xer or a guy that goes out to track days and whatnot, then you probably can, the rest of us, not likely, I sure as gently caress couldn't and I *might* be a slightly better than average driver. I see ABS as a kind of catch all thing, not everyone can threshold brake properly, but everyone can ram the gently caress out of a brake pedal and pray for the best. As far as locking up stops the best, but you lose steering control debate, I remember someone telling me years ago that when you lock them up, and you start wearing away at your tires, the little bits of rubber underneath the contact patch act like ..... "marbles" under your tires. Sort of like, giving them something to roll on even though the tire itself might not be rolling itself. I've noticed a similar effect in the winter and spring for example when they've laid down the little bits of gravel on the road. You hit the brakes, and my ABS will kick on sometimes, even when I haven't actually slammed the pedal down. Anyway, thats just what I think, fire away.....
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Jul 31, 2017 04:03
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2002 Lexus IS300, 170k miles Every time I brake the ABS light kicks on and I can hear/feel the pulsation in the brake pedal. It actually happens when I'm a moment away from coming to a complete stop. It doesn't happen throughout the entirety of braking. This started happening about 6 to 8 months ago but only when I had the wheel turned to the left even a degree off center. Now it happens all the time, but sometimes it won't happen if my wheel is turned to the right a good amount. This was happening before and after a complete brake job I just had a month or so ago (brakes, calipers, and rotors all replaced). I did some research and also spoke to my mechanic and it seems to be the ABS Wheel Speed sensors. My mechanic wants me to buy the front L & R ABS Wheel Speed sensors. He seems to think the wire has gotten worn out, like twisting a metal wire repeatedly for years will eventually break it. Before I buy these parts, do you guys think I should consider any other possibility/option? Or is this most likely the culprit?
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Jul 31, 2017 16:11
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How do you fill up an auto g/b when the fill port is at the bottom!? I've been pissed off ever since they got rid of dipsticks. It's bad enough they have a bolt on the side for a while leaving you hosed over. But apparently my ZF 5hp18 has it on the bottom. I get there's probably a tube inside 1-3" high so it doubles as an overflow, but looking at some pics the end of the tube is capped with slits so I can even get a hose up and over. How do you fill it? I know I'll need a hand pump of some sort for this stupid design, but do a need a fitting made that is threaded the same as the fill plug threads? It's loving bullshit, making it harder and harder. Sealed for life means we want to sell you a $5k gearbox every 10years! I mean this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wSp5mFcRjE&t=471s gently caress this, I have a 30cm high jack and not a lift so I'd be laying in the poo poo. And I no idea what that guy is so excited about in german. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jul 31, 2017 |
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Jul 31, 2017 16:36
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Car keep stalling with intermittent blinker/light issues, don't know what to do. 2000 Saab 9-3, 4 door hatchback, 114k miles. Last Friday I was driving on the freeway when I got a "Brake light failure" fault on my SID (the Saab information display on the dash). I noticed that my rear wiper was acting intermittent and funky. I turned off the rear wiper and it was still going on. So I thought "maybe some relay or electrical thing failed." Five minutes later I get a "rear lights failure" on the SID. I noticed that my left and right blinkers are intermittent and sometimes won't operate at all. I get to my destination shut off the car and driving around at low speed I notice it sputtering. Then a couple of minutes later it won't start at all unless I pump the gas during the start sequence. But it sounds like the starter motor is struggling, maybe low amperage? Today I barely got it to my parking lot and it stalled 3-4 times on the road. It got so bad that it was jerking back and forth at 2mph until I put it "3" from "drive," and was able to limp into the parking lot. Is it something electrical? I bought this care for $1200 in January, maybe time to get another car before sinking another dollar into this?
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Jul 31, 2017 17:05
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Howard Phillips posted:Car keep stalling with intermittent blinker/light issues, don't know what to do. Get the codes read and see what the brain thinks is wrong. (My guess is bad battery/alternator)
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Jul 31, 2017 17:10
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yamdankee posted:2002 Lexus IS300, 170k miles "Wheel speed sensors" was what immediately jumped into my mind as I read your description of the symptoms. I guess there could be other culprits, but those seem pretty likely.
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Jul 31, 2017 17:26
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spog posted:Get the codes read and see what the brain thinks is wrong. Just did some light investigating and it looks like the rear ground connection inside trunk to the body is completely corroded off. Would that cause stalls though? Maybe some funky low voltage/current effects on the idle controller?
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Jul 31, 2017 17:54
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Deteriorata posted:"Wheel speed sensors" was what immediately jumped into my mind as I read your description of the symptoms. I guess there could be other culprits, but those seem pretty likely. Awesome, thank you. Feels good to get a little more confirmation before buying parts. Also, dumb question, but does the whole thing about it usually happening when the wheel is turned to the left indicate which sensor might be bad, or no? If the problem is resolved after installing the first sensor I might just return the other one, or should I just be a man and do both as preventative maintenance?
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Jul 31, 2017 18:00
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Howard Phillips posted:Car keep stalling with intermittent blinker/light issues, don't know what to do. First get the battery tested, and make sure the alternator is charging, if those are good, then it sounds like either a bad ground connection, or a loose battery terminal to me.
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Jul 31, 2017 18:06
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Howard Phillips posted:Just did some light investigating and it looks like the rear ground connection inside trunk to the body is completely corroded off. Would that cause stalls though? Maybe some funky low voltage/current effects on the idle controller? I don't know if they'd ground the fuel pump in the trunk, but that's my initial thought.
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Jul 31, 2017 18:43
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Reattached the ground wires to another bolt. Car started up fine, seems to be doing alright. Might as well sell this 17 year old baby while it's still running and get something newer. Thanks for all the help.
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Jul 31, 2017 18:55
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Howard Phillips posted:Reattached the ground wires to another bolt. Car started up fine, seems to be doing alright. Funnily enough, 'bad ground' was my instinctive first reaction to your problem, but it was a gut feeling, rather than considered. It's no reason to dump the car though.
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Jul 31, 2017 21:01
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2008 Porsche Cayman I'm changing my brake pads and rotors. I've taken everything apart, and I'm in the process of reinstalling stuff now. That shouldn't be an issue. However, in the process of troubleshooting an earlier problem, I ended up disconnecting my parking brake inside the cabin. The component looks very similar to this:  My first goal is going to be reconnecting those cables in the cabin, which I'll attempt shortly. However, in the case that that's not possible, I'm wondering if it's an option to drive without the parking brake cables attached, but without removing the brake shoes at the rear wheel. I understand this is less than ideal (and possibly illegal), but I'm really just hoping that it will be fine for two or three days while I finish the work week, or even failing that, just to get it 10 miles to the garage. The worst case scenario is that I remove the parking brake shoes from the rear wheel before driving it to the garage, so that I don't have to worry about them springing open and locking one of my wheels while I'm driving, but I'd very much like to avoid taking them off if I don't have to. And just to give you an idea of the space I'm working with to try and reconnect the cables: 
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Jul 31, 2017 22:59
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DO NOT REMOVE THE SHOES Seriously. Don't remove them. I realize they're only the parking brakes and that you probably have a "drum in disc" parking brake, but drums are a PITA to put back together on the best of days anyway. You're just creating more work for yourself. Do your best to get the cables back in. Worst case, zip tie them somewhere that they won't get tangled up in anything, but I wouldn't drive it until it's fixed, particularly if you have a manual transmission. What's stopping you from removing the center console? Also, if that's just a straight hole through for each cable, get a wire coat hanger, untwist it, get it as straight as possible, shove it through from the inside, get under the car, tape the cables tightly to it (with electrical tape), pull each cable back in. Poor man's fish tape. You'll probably need to tape around the head of each cable to make it easier to pull.
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Jul 31, 2017 23:07
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You almost certainly don't need to worry about the shoes spring out, the springs on them are designed to pull them inboard, so unless you've really hosed something internally, it'll make no odds. It's entirely possible you've just popped the cable end out of a slot in the lever mechanism. Bite the bullet and remove that interior trim around the centre console etc, it'll make life way easier.
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Jul 31, 2017 23:17
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It sounded/looked more like the cables had exited the cabin entirely. Still, so long as OP can get under the car somehow (SAFELY... you know, jack stands or ramps), it shouldn't be difficult to get them back in. Might need pliers to get the 2nd cable back into the fitting. Those cables do break occasionally, so the hole is certainly big enough to get the cables back in.
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Jul 31, 2017 23:21
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Fo3 posted:How do you fill up an auto g/b when the fill port is at the bottom!? I googled the pan design so I am going off that. Apologies if its incorrect. Would a $10 garden pesticide sprayer work? I have seen where people have used them on Toyotas but they have a fill plug on the side. Maybe you can bend up a small piece of pipe with a 180 degree bend to go up through the fill hole, it looks large enough. Connect that with a length of hose to the sprayer and pump until fluid comes out. E: this is the link I followed for pan design which indicated the fill hole is 30mm. http://www.thectsc.com/5hp18-transmission-fluid-level-procedures rdb fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jul 31, 2017 |
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Jul 31, 2017 23:45
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You could try putting a valve (like a fumoto) in place of the drain plug, pump however much fluid in that you need, then close the valve? Unfortunately it looks like the drain is right on the bottom, so I'm not sure if you would have enough room for even a right angle valve without putting it in harm's way.
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Jul 31, 2017 23:49
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The make petcock valves for oil pans. They are kinda big and akward though. E: Nvm i was thinking of the fumuto i guess. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Aug 1, 2017 |
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Aug 1, 2017 00:24
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My daughter's car isn't starting, but instead makes this noise... It sounds like a warning but I have no idea what for inside the engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvovgb2hp_4 It is a 1996 VW cabrio. Got a new alternator and starter for it a couple months ago, but I just don't think it is related to that. The tone seems to be coming from the very top of the engine. Won't crank, click, anything. I am at a loss and if I try searching for "alarm engine wont start" the results are all about the immobilizer (which I don't think this car has). Any help?
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Aug 1, 2017 00:56
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Its a relay thats buzzing but id start with all your grounds. E: or a stuck relay. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 01:15 on Aug 1, 2017 |
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Aug 1, 2017 01:09
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I thought I heard a faint click from the starter relay when you first attempted to start it. I would bet on a bad battery. The whining sound could be a relay oscillating instead of closing due to not enough power available to keep it closed.
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Aug 1, 2017 01:22
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DogonCrook posted:Its a relay thats buzzing but id start with all your grounds. Would replacing the relay be something to try? I can't even find it, I assumed they were all inside the passenger compartment.
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Aug 1, 2017 01:23
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I just tried jumping it with my car, the started did make one click but that was it.
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Aug 1, 2017 01:28
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Its under the dash and i can't remember if theres one in the bay. To test them just run twelve volts across the posts (look up which ones) if its good itll click. Its way more likely its a bad or weak ground or connection though. A bad battery or alternator is possiblei get duds all the time so yeah even if its new dont trust it. Imo a vw its easier to rule out grounds, alt, battery, and one relay (109 i think if its like the jetta, its umder the dash more than likely) then wires, and then switch itself because vw uses lovely column switches.
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Aug 1, 2017 01:37
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What's a good price to pay for a 2018 wrx premium with automatic. edmunds/truecar seem to say 30.5-31.5? I haven't bought a car in a decade so idk how reliable truecar is. Also am i committing a crime against automoting by getting an automatic? My recent manual experience is limited almost entirely to driving friends' cars home from bars when they're shitfaced.
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Aug 1, 2017 01:38
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Herstory Begins Now posted:What's a good price to pay for a 2018 wrx premium with automatic. edmunds/truecar seem to say 30.5-31.5? I haven't bought a car in a decade so idk how reliable truecar is. Get them smashed and get real good at it on their car then buy a manual when you are comfortable
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Aug 1, 2017 01:41
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Herstory Begins Now posted:What's a good price to pay for a 2018 wrx premium with automatic. edmunds/truecar seem to say 30.5-31.5? I haven't bought a car in a decade so idk how reliable truecar is. If you want an auto, get an auto. Many people don't actually like doing their own shifting (particularly if they have to deal with a lot of city traffic), and autos are getting better and smarter all the time. Don't pass on a manual just because you're unfamiliar with it, though. You're going to own the car for a long time, so you'll have plenty of opportunity to get proficient at it. Get whatever you want. If you want to gain some comfort with a manual before committing one way or the other, you could try to find a manual car that you could rent for a weekend and drive the hell out of it. It's always better to make an informed decision. For a boring family car, I prefer an auto because it's just put your foot down and go, and it's one less thing to worry about. In sports cars I prefer a manual because the process of driving is the whole point of the car, and manually selecting your gear is part of that. As always, YMMV.
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Aug 1, 2017 01:51
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Deteriorata posted:If you want an auto, get an auto. Many people don't actually like doing their own shifting (particularly if they have to deal with a lot of city traffic), and autos are getting better and smarter all the time. I agree with this post, as someone who bought their first manual car at 30. It's a bit of a pain in the butt if you spend a lot of time in start/stop traffic. I'd rather have an automatic if that was going to be much of my useage. Fortunately my work hours are offset from the usual 9-5, and I don't live in a super congested area anyways, so this is rarely my reality. I find it more enjoyable and satisfying to drive to drive a manual, even though it's a tiny econobox rather than anything sporty. It can be really hard to find manuals to rent (even in Australia, seems like they're being phased out of rental fleets in recent years), unfortunately. You could try a driving school; once you get more or less comfortable with it then you could then make your decision. I basically learned by buying a cheap used manual vehicle and driving it home 2 hours over some mountainous backroads. I was already somewhat familiar with the concept from riding motorcycles for years, so read a few things about cars and watched a few YouTube videos, then pretty much winged it. It's surprising how second nature it becomes after a while.
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Aug 1, 2017 02:34
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The Wonder Weapon posted:2008 Porsche Cayman Thanks for the input everyone. Luckily, within 10 minutes of my post, I had the parking brake working again. It turned out they hadn't been pulled into the recess of the engine compartment, but rather, had simply pulled left and right, just out of view. When I shoved my phone down there to take a photo to see what I could see, I spotted them off to the side, and was able to get them connected again after some elbow grease. Two hours later my new rotors and brakes were in, and after a test drive to Chipotle, everything is good! Of course not content to let me have anything easily, as I was putting the absolute final touch on the brake job, making sure the brake fluid was topped off, I dropped the lid into a deep plastic compartment that required another 45 minutes to disassemble.
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Aug 1, 2017 02:56
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Buy one of these grabbers. Modern cars have so many nooks and panels now its a real bitch without one and its cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RB7AG...la-318184364856
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Aug 1, 2017 03:05
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Raluek posted:You could try putting a valve (like a fumoto) in place of the drain plug, pump however much fluid in that you need, then close the valve? Unfortunately it looks like the drain is right on the bottom, so I'm not sure if you would have enough room for even a right angle valve without putting it in harm's way. I don't really need something there permanently. It's more the fact that filling the regular way seems so messy and makes it impossible to flush it (refilling while draining from the coolant line at the same time). Also trans fluid is going to cover my face and driveway. My plan is to get something to fit the fill port and keep that sealed, and maybe slightly overfill it, then remove the fitting and let excess fluid drain out in a more controlled manor after I've done a flush and refill. That seems better than fluid pissing out everywhere while trying to fill and flush at the same time and needing to be constantly in and out from underneath, making a mess everywhere. I might see if I can get a fitting like a fumoto for the fill port, or a spare fill plug and drill and tap or weld a union on. If I can get something with a 1/4" flare, I've got a pump which I used to use for refrigeration oils to fill large compressors.
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Aug 1, 2017 05:09
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Potentially stupid/dangerous jack stand question: I have a 2014 Mazda 6. Warranty ran out recently, so now I want to go back to doing my own basic maintenance, such as oil changes and tire rotations again. First time since I moved in to a house, so I had to buy some jack stands and a hydraulic floor jack. I chock the front wheels, lift up the rear end, and go in to put the jack stands in and I discover that the jack stands I have are in no way compatible with the tiny pinch weld that I have to support the vehicle on. There's no real "flat" on my jack stands, they have a very deep v:  The pinch weld is not deep enough to reach the bottom of the V on the jack stand. The result is that the car would be supported by the tops of the V on some plastic bits, so I'm pretty sure that's not what Mazda intended. So googling around, I found this: https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/269680-hockey-puck-pads-for-jack-and-stands.html    Hockey pucks. Yup. If I do this, and then subsequently try to jack up a 3rd wheel so I can rotate my tires, is my car going to fall and/or am I going to die horribly underneath it when I crawl under to change the oil? I see a lot of people using wood blocks, which scares me...for some reason I consider the hockey puck to be safer than a wood block. Follow-up: What's the alternative? Are there other places under the car I can safely put a jack stand under that won't cause damage to anything, and won't leave the car teetering precariously on the jack stand? The only other spots I can find listed as official support points are on the center of the rear crossmember and center of the front subframe.
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Aug 1, 2017 14:59
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DaveSauce posted:Follow-up: What's the alternative? Are there other places under the car I can safely put a jack stand under that won't cause damage to anything, and won't leave the car teetering precariously on the jack stand? The only other spots I can find listed as official support points are on the center of the rear crossmember and center of the front subframe. The hockey puck goes on top of your hydraulic jack. The jack stands go under anything that looks strong enough to support them, such as the places that you listed. For what you are doing, it is perfectly possible for the car to be supported entirely on just the jack and be sturdy enough for the wheel/oil stuff you want to do. The jack stands can sit under the car, not supporting the weight, but be there in case there is an issue with the jack and the car falls off it.
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Aug 1, 2017 16:10
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