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Thanks Ilor, Dr. Gargunza, berzerkmonkey, and Zaphod42. When I get back to painting again I will try zenithal and semi-translucent paints. I have all the necessary tools and supplies, I just need to practice I suppose.
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Aug 2, 2017 19:56
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Cat Face Joe posted:Really? I've never had any issues with Game Plus stuff. How old are they? All of mine are from the last year. Mine are from last year as well, but the one that carries my riptide and devilfish are mostly hollow and the walls aren't strong enough. I suppose I should have stacked them differently, and plucked them differently, but they were real cheap so I wasn't too worried about it.
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Aug 2, 2017 21:23
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Indolent Bastard posted:I think the thing I need to do is figure out exactly how zenithal priming works. I've seen described a bunch of times I've even seen some videos but for some reason I just don't understand it. I see what supposed to happen but every time I try it it just absolutely gets covered the very first time I apply paint anything the priming just vanishes. http://www.powerfisted.com/?p=199  Like Signal is saying, make sure the paint is pretty thin. You must have transparent layers otherwise the effect is wasted.
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Aug 2, 2017 22:16
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If you're going to do Zenithal priming I would prime in the color you would basecoat in, and simply don't even paint the major areas of that color. Skip basecoating entirely and go from prime to wash and then detail. I know I've heard people say they do this before.
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Aug 2, 2017 22:20
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I think I'm going to try Zenithal Priming on my Ironjawz. I've never done it before, but I think I understand the method enough to accomplish it. I don't want to spend $60 at GW though, so does anyone have recommendations for primer I can pick up from Home Depot?
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Aug 2, 2017 22:29
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Duplicolor primer from auto parts stores is my favorite. Unleash the spray paint suggestions!
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Aug 2, 2017 22:46
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Update on the jacked up  demon prince I was gifted: I still have some detail work to do, and I was toying with the idea of making its toenails bright red, or maybe pink.
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Aug 2, 2017 23:21
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Update on the jacked up You turned a disaster into daisies. Well done.
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Aug 3, 2017 01:08
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 Finished my dread for Konor games tomorrow
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Aug 3, 2017 04:18
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Zuul the Cat posted:I think I'm going to try Zenithal Priming on my Ironjawz. I've never done it before, but I think I understand the method enough to accomplish it. I don't want to spend $60 at GW though, so does anyone have recommendations for primer I can pick up from Home Depot? Krylon Flat Black/White/Gray is fine. You can get the normal stuff - no need to get any special formulations. BULBASAUR posted:
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Aug 3, 2017 15:25
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 Does anyone have any recommendations for painting blue Necron warscythes? I've never done anything in that vein of weapon before, and all the guides I've seen are the standard green. I could just slap a highlight on there and call it a day, but as an HQ I'd prefer to get a bit fancier with ol' Anrakyr.
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Aug 3, 2017 17:04
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Merton Blask posted:
TELL US HOW YOU DID THAT FIRST.  (Seriously, though, Saint Duncan has you covered. Just switch out the colors for bluer shades.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clWZUwAN_zc
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Aug 3, 2017 18:19
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Dr. Gargunza posted:TELL US HOW YOU DID THAT FIRST. Hand drill, some 0402 smd blue LEDs, a 2032 button cell battery, and maybe a tiny spdt 1p2t switch mounted in the base. Possibly a resistor as well. I'm not an electrician, so I couldn't tell you which kind you would need.
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Aug 3, 2017 18:45
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Ancient finished, figured I'd use him as a candidate for some armour scribbling as the black everywhere was a bit bland.
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Aug 3, 2017 18:57
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Hand drill, some 0402 smd blue LEDs, a 2032 button cell battery, and maybe a tiny spdt 1p2t switch mounted in the base. Possibly a resistor as well. I'm not an electrician, so I couldn't tell you which kind you would need. Thanks! I've been looking into LED lighting for larger stuff, and having some actual item numbers helps make it feel a bit less daunting. (Of course, I'm trying to jump from "has never done LED lighting before" through "plain white backlighting on Lo Pan's Noodle Hut" to "multiple strands of sound-reactive LEDs/fiberoptics rigged up to a raspberry pi tucked inside a Necron Monolith so I can have dubstep Necrons  ." I have problems.)As far as blue-blade color recommendations, I've been using a lot of Privateer Press paints lately. My go-to high contrast blue schemes involve P3 Coal Black and Exile Blue, GW Enchanted Blue (or whatever the modern equivalent is, I think Army Painter Magic Blue?), and P3 Frostbite for edge highlights. Reaper also makes LED Blue, funny enough, as a nice medium-light blue shade. Those and some glaze medium should let you replicate Duncan's green blades in blue very nicely, and you can go up to a tiny amount of pure white on the tips if you want a colder/more glint-y effect. e: goddammit richyp that's incredible!
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Aug 3, 2017 19:05
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Dr. Gargunza posted:"multiple strands of sound-reactive LEDs/fiberoptics rigged up to a raspberry pi tucked inside a Necron Monolith so I can have dubstep Necrons Subscribing to newsletter.
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Aug 3, 2017 19:13
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richyp posted:
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Aug 3, 2017 19:20
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incoming. By the time I post this I'll probably have been badly beaten.
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Dr. Gargunza posted:e: goddammit richyp that's incredible! Thanks, really pleased with the banner. Beast Pussy posted:Thanks for this. I was really hoping there would be some idiot proof starter set to help people get into this, but I can just buy them as I need them. Hopefully I'll be posting my bad little spacemen in a couple weeks. No problem. To be honest, there may well be a decent starter set but I've found in the past that I ended up using only a fraction of the colours that came with a set and buying other pots individually anyway. If you have an idea of what you want to paint and how I'd grab the basic colours mentioned and any specific variants that you will use consistently, rather than mixing each time which is especially important if you're doing a squad/army in a uniform manner.
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Aug 3, 2017 19:24
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Hand drill, some 0402 smd blue LEDs, a 2032 button cell battery, and maybe a tiny spdt 1p2t switch mounted in the base. Possibly a resistor as well. I'm not an electrician, so I couldn't tell you which kind you would need. You just need a resistor so you don't blow the LED with too much juice. So it depends upon the battery and the LED you're using, but small cheap resistors are fine. Dr. Gargunza posted:Thanks! I've been looking into LED lighting for larger stuff, and having some actual item numbers helps make it feel a bit less daunting. (Of course, I'm trying to jump from "has never done LED lighting before" through "plain white backlighting on Lo Pan's Noodle Hut" to "multiple strands of sound-reactive LEDs/fiberoptics rigged up to a raspberry pi tucked inside a Necron Monolith so I can have dubstep Necrons I haven't done any crazy stuff with lighting actual models yet because I'd be scared about destroying it, but my cousin and I are building terrain using 3D printing and basic electronics. Right now we're working on crystal formations that have multi-color RGB LEDs controlled by a dial in the base, so you can flip a switch and have green, yellow, red, blue or whatever shade of glowing crystal you want 
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Aug 3, 2017 19:40
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I just got in to painting small space barbies about a month ago and have been playing around with not being terrible at everything with it. I'm pretty pleased with my ork waagh so I thought I'd share and get some feedback! (I know a lot of it is going to be "oh my good lord thin your paint!!!") I need to get a better camera & learn some techniques to not suck so I apologize that these are not the best photos.  Here is my Waaagh warband in all of it's might (minus the dudes not in the shot and sitting on Star Wars Imperial Assault tiles, don't judge)  A closeup of one of my dudes. I went with the typical blue hair. The basing is done with some tufts of grass and a whole lot of boxed pebbledirt.  I decided as I was going through these guys that with this many blades & chainsaws it made no sense for them to be squeaky clean like the gunshooty men, so about half my minis are covered in blood. I managed to get the blood splatter on the blade to look nice for this one. Sorry he's pointing his gun directly at you.  This guy is aight but I like the way his base came out a lot. My technique does leave a lot of the basing falling off as you can see from crumbs in my other photos, need to figure that out.  Some little dudes. The guy on the left is an early static grass attempt, I got a little better at it.  The single Space Marine I've finished. He may be in trouble!  So this entire set is from the ASSAULT ON BLACK REACH set that I bought like, 7 years ago and never put together because I was terrible at painting back then (maybe I still am). In assembling the models, one of the orks was missing an arm. I'm pretty pleased with how this hack came out & I look forward to painting him soon!! Quidthulhu fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 20:18
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:Hand drill, some 0402 smd blue LEDs, a 2032 button cell battery, and maybe a tiny spdt 1p2t switch mounted in the base. Possibly a resistor as well. I'm not an electrician, so I couldn't tell you which kind you would need. Nailed it. The switch is on the back, hard to see behind the Warscythe. I don't generally use resistors in my infantry models, being as a 2032 or a 1620 put out 3v and the SMDs can handle that easily. I stress tested a few of the LEDs I'm using with a continuous current for over three days with no issues, so I'm not too worried about it. I do use resistors, but generally only in larger models where I've had to up the battery size to accommodate more lights. (Doomsday Ark has 26 or so, that's a 9v) Only other component worth mentioning is a quick recast of the ribcage and face in a blue-tinted clear resin.  
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Aug 3, 2017 23:21
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I have had a vague plan to line the inside of my Glaive turret with WS2812B and write some firing/idle animations. I'm not sure if I'll ever do it.
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Aug 3, 2017 23:30
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Quidthulhu posted:I just got in to painting small space barbies about a month ago and have been playing around with not being terrible at everything with it. I'm pretty pleased with my ork waagh so I thought I'd share and get some feedback! (I know a lot of it is going to be "oh my good lord thin your paint!!!") Looking pretty good so far.
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Aug 4, 2017 00:47
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So I've been working on some PoM warmachines over the past two weeks and I'm starting to get slightly less awful at it. Paint order went something like Jacks > Rhoven & Honor Guard & Severius > Choir > Errant UA + Seneschal. Took a few pieces to settle on a coherent scheme (Severius and Rhoven both need hilarious repainting and the Choir need cleaned up, Blessing needs more work), but I like the kitup I have for the Exemplars. https://imgur.com/a/p6Gjj
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Aug 4, 2017 02:17
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Finally finished my Naffatun box:  These were fun to paint, but god drat do they have a ton of detail.
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Aug 4, 2017 06:34
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Merton Blask posted:
More clear recasting and more LEDs. Edit: do you have a link to the clear resin? I'm planning something similar. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Aug 4, 2017 |
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Aug 4, 2017 07:41
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HardCoil posted:Edit: do you have a link to the clear resin? I'm planning something similar. https://www.amazon.com/Environmenta...castin%27+craft https://www.amazon.com/Environmenta...TJMTTR1V4SE05RB The molds were made with Smooth-On. I measure my liquids by weight; that level of tint is 1 drop per 2g of resin. I did look into making the blades out of lit resin! Unfortunately, even with a strand of fiberoptic running through them they're a bit floppy and don't light as evenly as I would have liked.
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Aug 4, 2017 10:08
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Spent far too long painting this... and then hosed it up by frosting it when I tried to varnish it. Crossing my fingers that the frosting is gone by the time I go home, otherwise I've got to try the gloss->matte route and pray it works.
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Aug 4, 2017 17:07
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glitchkrieg posted:Spent far too long painting this... and then hosed it up by frosting it when I tried to varnish it. Ah man, that old pit fighter is an awesome mini and you've done a really great job on it. Fingers crossed for the varnish.
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Aug 4, 2017 17:10
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glitchkrieg posted:Spent far too long painting this... and then hosed it up by frosting it when I tried to varnish it. Seconds on the good luck. That's a really expressive, fun paint job you have on that guy. Regarding zenithal priming: I'm half convinced that Mantic employees read our forums, just from the timing on their blog. (This isn't as personal or fun as the Powerfisted journal, but it's about the same amount of info.) https://manticblog.com/2017/08/04/eckter-zenithal/
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Aug 4, 2017 18:51
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glitchkrieg posted:Spent far too long painting this... and then hosed it up by frosting it when I tried to varnish it. Ah man, what a bummer! The black eye on that guy is a nice touch. This is why i'm too nervous to seal mine.
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Aug 4, 2017 18:56
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Zuul the Cat posted:Ah man, what a bummer! The black eye on that guy is a nice touch. This is why i'm too nervous to seal mine. Don't use aerosol sealers (or primers for that matter) and you will avoid a bunch of headaches, as well as never worrying about waiting for fair weather to work in.
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Aug 4, 2017 20:04
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Been a long time since I've primed anything white. Did I overspray this? Or does white primer tend to settle in recesses like that normally? I used dupli-color, if that matters.
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Aug 5, 2017 00:28
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As long as its a smooth coat, and the detail isnt filled... you should be good to go.
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Aug 5, 2017 01:16
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 Finally got around to basing my infantry, here's a sample of a few of thew bases since there's like 20 of them. Decided to try some new techniques to both weather my BMPs and highlight them to make them/the details pop rather than just basecoat + wash. I need some crit on the following BMP pics:    So how'd I do? I'm thinking the dust on the armor skirts on the left/right should be thicker? Overall the hatches and such have proven too small to drybrush the edges with steel color. Any way to get in there to weather those edges? Maybe just user a smaller flat brush overall for the drybrushing? Also how to take better pictures Phi230 fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Aug 5, 2017 |
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Aug 5, 2017 03:10
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glitchkrieg posted:Spent far too long painting this... and then hosed it up by frosting it when I tried to varnish it. It absolutely does work.
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Aug 5, 2017 03:20
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What color basing should I use for this guy? His base has some tombstones and zombie hands coming up out of the ground. My choices are either Agrellan Badlands (which is a tan) or Astrogranite dry brushed with Longbeard Grey.  
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Aug 5, 2017 03:44
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Purple-black with green glow from zombie hands? Model + description sound like a world of Warcraft palette.
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Aug 5, 2017 05:06
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glitchkrieg posted:Spent far too long painting this... and then hosed it up by frosting it when I tried to varnish it. Total novice checking in, how does something like that happen? I picked up a can of GW's varnish literally today with the intent of sealing some of the mini's I've painted that have turned out well and would like to avoid a pitfall if I could.
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Aug 5, 2017 07:07
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NeurosisHead posted:Total novice checking in, how does something like that happen? I picked up a can of GW's varnish literally today with the intent of sealing some of the mini's I've painted that have turned out well and would like to avoid a pitfall if I could. Any can of spray can frost if the humidity is poo poo, the can's not shaken properly, it's too far from the model and dries in the air, etc. If you absolutely have to use a rattle can, I'd highly suggest putting the can in a container of hot water for 5mins before use, shake well, and don't spray too far away from the model.
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