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Anyone have an opinion on the Armory black primer? It looks like the P3 primer is currently out of stock everywhere. Privateer Press doesn't even have it as unavailable in their store, it just doesn't exist.
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Aug 7, 2017 15:12
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:why the gently caress is spray paint illegal in chicago? is it because those loving punks tagging everything Sup fellow Chicagoon. Yeah I just buy mine out in the 'burbs. It sucks and I forgot about that when I moved in to the city. If you are near the Edgewater neighborhood I know Chicagoland Games will prime your models for you and/or provide a space where you can prime.
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Aug 7, 2017 15:13
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Archenteron posted:Speaking of priming, I bought a bottle of gesso to try out on a few models after my last can of spray ran out (and I do a lot of evening painting and the humidity is hell right now) and I don't know if I like it? Even if I thin it and don't go turbo gloppy, it still feels like a chunkier base on the models, and it seems like it holds the paint differently. I have the exact same opinion on gesso, it's not really worth it, imo
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Aug 7, 2017 15:16
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Pierzak posted:I discovered Army Painter washes and haven't looked back. I'm a huge Army Painter fan and use basically all their paints and washes. That being said, I also have the Citadel washes, because they're different. Blue Shade is a distinctly different color than Drakenhof Nightshade, not to mention Citadel's various green shades and whatnot. But for the standard lineup of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade, the Dark Tone and Strong Tone is 1:1, and I think the Light Tone is the same as Seraphim Sepia but I haven't done all the #science required yet since I've been mostly using the colored washes lately.
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Aug 7, 2017 15:27
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Army Painter Quickshade is a distinctly different viscosity than Citadel washes and has a slightly different effect.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:01
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Geoff Zahn posted:Sup fellow Chicagoon. Yeah I just buy mine out in the 'burbs. It sucks and I forgot about that when I moved in to the city. If you are near the Edgewater neighborhood I know Chicagoland Games will prime your models for you and/or provide a space where you can prime. I've never taken the Dojo up on the primer use, plus getting primed minis home seems like kind of a pain even though I'm not that far away.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:04
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mango sentinel posted:Army Painter Quickshade is a distinctly different viscosity than Citadel washes and has a slightly different effect. Yeah, I'm talking about their actual acrylic washes, not the dipping stuff. https://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=21
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Aug 7, 2017 16:06
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Shadin posted:Yeah, I'm talking about their actual acrylic washes, not the dipping stuff. The three main AP washes are meant to closely replicate their GW counterparts, though the names are different. Dark Tone is a close match to Badab Black/Nuln Oil, Strong Tone matches Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade, and Soft Tone is (i think) Seraphim Sepia. Their colored washes are quite a bit thicker and can be used as glazes, and they all have a tendency to lay on flat surfaces. If you want any of them to flow into recesses more easily, you can thin them with a bit of Future. I like 'em, myself, but then I also use the GW washes and glazes, so obviously my standards are questionable.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:14
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Dr. Gargunza posted:The three main AP washes are meant to closely replicate their GW counterparts, though the names are different. Dark Tone is a close match to Badab Black/Nuln Oil, Strong Tone matches Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade, and Soft Tone is (i think) Seraphim Sepia. Their colored washes are quite a bit thicker and can be used as glazes, and they all have a tendency to lay on flat surfaces. If you want any of them to flow into recesses more easily, you can thin them with a bit of Future. People can hate on GW all they want to, but their washes and technical paints are objectively awesome and anyone saying otherwise is just being a salty boycotter. Which, boycotting is fine, whatever, but don't pretend the products aren't good just because you're sticking it to the man.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:18
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:I have the exact same opinion on gesso, it's not really worth it, imo Goons in this thread's predecessor used to love this poo poo, like eight years ago. It always seemed awful to me.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:32
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ineptmule posted:Goons in this thread's predecessor used to love this poo poo, like eight years ago. It always seemed awful to me. The gesso craze was insane.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:34
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Is there a good way to mix your own washes?
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Aug 7, 2017 16:38
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Shadin posted:People can hate on GW all they want to, but their washes and technical paints are objectively awesome and anyone saying otherwise is just being a salty boycotter. Which, boycotting is fine, whatever, but don't pretend the products aren't good just because you're sticking it to the man. Oh, that's not GW hate, that's self-deprecation. ;p I'll paint with anything as long as it matches the color scheme I want, and it's in my price range. I've gone through so many bottles of Lahmian Medium as a primary thinning agent.... One thing I could've been clearer on is that, while I really like both GW and Army Painter washes, I use them for different purposes and frequently use both on the same models. Painting a decent black, for instance, I frequently use a dark grey basecoat, washed all over with AP Dark Tone to cover the flat surfaces, and followed with Nuln Oil Gloss to darken the recesses. I'm not hating on GW at all (in fact, the guy who runs my neighborhood Warhammer store is a pretty cool dude and I'm actively hoping he's successful, so I buy all my GW paints there).
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Aug 7, 2017 16:40
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TTerrible posted:The gesso craze was insane. When I first got into painting miniatures last year, I couldn't believe how many people recommended gesso for priming on various forums. Not being new to art in general, it seemed an insane shoehorning that could easily produce lackluster results when there's literally dozens of other options more suited to the task at hand.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:41
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Oh, that's not GW hate, that's self-deprecation. ;p I'll paint with anything as long as it matches the color scheme I want, and it's in my price range. I've gone through so many bottles of Lahmian Medium as a primary thinning agent.... Sorry, I should have also clarified that I wasn't accusing you of GW hate, but instead was accusing you of having fantastic taste. Haha. You see a lot of anti-GW people who say poo poo like "DONT USE BIEL-TAN SHADE NOTHING SPECIAL JUST TAKE VALLEJO UBERGOBLIN AND DILUTE IT WITH A BUCKET OF LIQUITEX MATTE SYRUP MUCH BETTER", and it's like, c'mon dude. Like you, I often mix and match Citadel and AP shades on the same models as well.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:45
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Skails posted:Is there a good way to mix your own washes? The go-to recipe for homemade washes for a long time has been Les Bursley's. That uses artist inks and matte medium, and has a very different texture to GW/Army Painter washes (it's much more opaque, separates a lot more easily, etc.) I've heard of some recipes that use Future/Pledge Floor Finish (or whatever the hell they're calling it these days) as a base, which is similar to the GW Gloss formulas, but either I'm looking for them in the wrong places or I imagined them. e: Holy crap, Liquitex makes syrup?! ...and now I want pancakes, dammit.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:50
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ineptmule posted:Goons in this thread's predecessor used to love this poo poo, like eight years ago. It always seemed awful to me. Yeah, I primed like two Tyranids with Gesso back then before saying gently caress it and just buying another can of spray paint.
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Aug 7, 2017 16:53
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I've heard of some recipes that use Future/Pledge Floor Finish (or whatever the hell they're calling it these days) as a base, which is similar to the GW Gloss formulas, but either I'm looking for them in the wrong places or I imagined them. http://theleadheadblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/making-your-own-washes.html This is the only recipe I've found that uses Future and it seems dubious at best.
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Aug 7, 2017 17:00
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Shadin posted:You see a lot of anti-GW people who say poo poo like "DONT USE BIEL-TAN SHADE NOTHING SPECIAL JUST TAKE VALLEJO UBERGOBLIN AND DILUTE IT WITH A BUCKET OF LIQUITEX MATTE SYRUP MUCH BETTER", and it's like, c'mon dude. Username + Post Combo. Also read that as maple syrup and figured that would really add surface tension to the wash. I'll probably stick with Biel Tan for Death Guard as tempting as maple syrup is. Iron Crowned posted:Yeah, I primed like two Tyranids with Gesso back then before saying gently caress it and just buying another can of spray paint. I find base-coating a chore, I sure can't imagine brushing primer on too. But after the last three priming session leaving lovely pitting all over the models I might have to. Tried GW Black, Halfords Grey twice, all leaving a grainy texture in various places. Probably because I sprayed it on outside before bringing models inside to dry. Can verify that Matte Medium + Water + colour works as a makeshift wash, though getting the ratio's right is an art in and of itself (buy washes).
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Aug 7, 2017 17:03
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Oh no, stung by Halfords? I used them exclusively till I got a proper airbrush setup going.
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Aug 7, 2017 17:06
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TTerrible posted:Oh no, stung by Halfords? I used them exclusively till I got a proper airbrush setup going. I'm in no doubt it's my retarded self to blame and not the trusty Halfords rattle can, as I primed outside between rain showers. I'd love an airbrush setup, especially for base-coating but because my recently 
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Aug 7, 2017 17:14
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I still use black gesso as a primer because I am old and all my views/opinions reached their final stage of ossification ten years ago and from here it's just a descent into dementia and soiling myself. What else do people use as a brush-on primer?
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Aug 7, 2017 17:43
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No one uses brush on primer.
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Aug 7, 2017 17:47
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Badger Stynylrez primer brushes on fine as well as its intended airbrush use.
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Aug 7, 2017 17:49
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darnon posted:Badger Stynylrez primer brushes on fine as well as its intended airbrush use. This. Stynylrez is magic, and I challenge you to somehow muck it up in applying it, because I'm the laziest airbrusher alive and I've yet to get it too thick on a model yet. It brushes on just as well, I've slathered it on models and it still comes out great.
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Aug 7, 2017 18:07
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I recently tried it and pledge IS a really good wash medium. It doesn't function quite like gw washes, but gives a really nice gradation. I'll get some pics of the poxwalkers I did the skin with it once I'm home.
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Aug 7, 2017 18:13
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As I recall, Pledge is essentially acrylic gloss medium plus a surfactant, which is why it's such a good mixer for washes. (You could also mix something like Pledge yourself if you already have the supplies.)
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Aug 7, 2017 18:18
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This is a repost of a bunch of my minis, but I took stock of everything I've painted so far this year and pulled out my favorites. Posted in order of completion: Tech-Priest Dominus  Necron Overlord  Howling Dracoths Lord Relictor  Howling Griffons Primaris Lieutenant  Star Justicars Primaris Lieutenant  Zedek's Weirdladz Ironjawz Megaboss  and a group shot just for fun:  With those posted, does anyone have any advice on things I need to look out for while painting, or anything I can improve on? I want to get better at edge highlighting, get better at basing and I want to try skills I really haven't yet, like wet blending and OSL. ( I tried a bit of OSL on the Megaboss base).
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Aug 7, 2017 19:01
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Getting in on the primer chat, since getting back into minis painting I have been using Army Painter white primer, and honestly I'm never sure if I could be doing better. Should I be looking at other brands that are either better or equally good but cheaper?
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Aug 7, 2017 19:13
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I'm not the biggest fan of Army Painter. I think their primer has just a bit too much grit to it. If you're happy with it, it's probably fine, but there is better out there. I like Tamiya Fine Surface Primer.
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Aug 7, 2017 19:24
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Cross-posting my Redemptor:   
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Aug 7, 2017 20:33
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rantmo posted:Well thanks everyone for the info, I think I'll actually be able to paint the front of that model without any problem as it looks fine, I think I'll try rub or scrape the worst bits of the back off and use a brush-on primer to recover. I've got a good grey primer, Mr. Primer Surface 1000, but I've had poo poo luck with black primer. Plus I live in Chicago and spray paint is illegal here and for some stupid loving reason that includes primer. Dunno if it's too late to matter, but you should be looking for the double coverage primer from them. This stuff:  I use their grey primer by default for almost everything I do.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:29
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Shadin posted:People can hate on GW all they want to, but their washes and technical paints are objectively awesome and anyone saying otherwise is just being a salty boycotter. Which, boycotting is fine, whatever, but don't pretend the products aren't good just because you're sticking it to the man. Ain't this the truth. I don't use citadel paints anymore since moving over entirely to Scale 75, but their washes and technicals are very, very good. Especially their gloss washes, which don't really have a competitor in the market. I go to my local GW store and pick them up fairly regularly, and get the feel badsies for people buying 'dry' paints. Also re: Primer chat. Please buy an airbrush. You'll never look back.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:42
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Yeast posted:Ain't this the truth. If you don't mind answering a question, I just started getting into grabbing some Scale 75 stuff, are their inks anything close to way you'd use GW washes?
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Aug 7, 2017 21:54
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S.J. posted:If you don't mind answering a question, I just started getting into grabbing some Scale 75 stuff, are their inks anything close to way you'd use GW washes? I mix scale75's inks with glaze medium and gloss varnish and find they work well for recess washes. I also sometimes do full coverage stuff as a glaze.
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Aug 7, 2017 22:07
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bonds0097 posted:I mix scale75's inks with glaze medium and gloss varnish and find they work well for recess washes. I also sometimes do full coverage stuff as a glaze. Cool, I had assumed they'd be more like GW's old school inks and more useful as a glaze than anything. Thanks!
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Aug 7, 2017 22:10
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Tonight I thought I'd have ago at my arch nemesis, painting flesh. So I painted up a few blood blooders skin for practice. Really pleased with how they came out, but the camera has given them a bit of a tan. EDIT: None sunburned version complete with hosed up primer close up 
richyp fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 7, 2017 22:35
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Yeast posted:Especially their gloss washes, which don't really have a competitor in the market. Speaking of this, let's hear how some of y'all are using the gloss washes from Citadel. I grabbed gloss Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade, and have used it some for metals and the like, but I know in my heart that I'm not using it to its full potential. richyp posted:Tonight I thought I'd have ago at my arch nemesis, painting flesh. So I painted up a few blood blooders skin for practice. Really pleased with how they came out, but the camera has given them a bit of a tan. These own bones and you're way better at flesh than I am already. I've always been intimidated by it and hide it by preferring armored spase mans and ratpeople.
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Aug 7, 2017 23:36
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Where's the most economical place to get neodymium magnets for magnetizing models? I usually use ebay and get some cheap ones from China, but ebay is making GBS threads the bed and I haven't been able to buy anything on it for weeks. I see people cite K&J magnetics, but paying $1.40 for 10 1/8" x 1/16" magnets is insane to me when I'm used to paying that much for 50 of them.
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Aug 7, 2017 23:48
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Floppychop posted:Where's the most economical place to get neodymium magnets for magnetizing models? If you are willing to wait there are a lot of Alibaba stores from China.
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Aug 7, 2017 23:58
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