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Smash it Smash hit posted:Too hot to hold the amp? Yep. Its a fairly new to me amp but I don't remember anything near this amount of heat before. E: I'm mostly wondering if the heat thing is hypothetically possible as a result of the speaker thing. When I first got the amp, the 4 ohm speaker was plugged into what appeared to be the 8 ohm output. The outputs are pretty crudely marked w sharpie. They could be switched. Anyways, I moved the 4 ohm speaker to the "4ohm" slot and had no problems. Which would make sense even if the outputs were incorrect.I'm pretty sure 4 ohms in an 8 ohm slot should be fine. But not the reverse. If, by chance, the outputs were swapped and I'm now running an 8 ohm speaker out of a 4 ohm slot, would this produce the increase in heat? Or can I rule that line of thinking out. JWH mentioned one of the resistors was not factory spec. Although if I remember correctly, it would have been under biasing the amp which would have it running even cooler. philkop fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Aug 6, 2017 |
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Aug 6, 2017 02:30
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Dr. Faustus posted:Seconded. yes to everything you said here. I'm convinced, though, that super high gain people actually like the smoothness that comes with lopping off every last square bit of the waveform. Basically they are heavy metal Michael McDonalds. Dang It Bhabhi! fucked around with this message at 11:33 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 6, 2017 03:52
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Except doom and sludge guys. We use fuzzes so it never gets too smooth.
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Aug 6, 2017 03:53
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Low b square waves at 100db are pretty smooth once your ears have lost all high end response, imo
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Aug 7, 2017 03:04
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I've been playing through Paul Masvidal's setup on BIAS and it has that high gain + clarity + slightly muffled sound and it really is something I enjoy a lot. It's pleasing in a weird way. I can't figure out what makes that sound or why it sounds good to me. Similarly I love most of Greg Howe's guitar tones even if they're real odd if you think about them. Very bassy and not a lot of high end.
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Aug 7, 2017 11:26
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Kilometers Davis posted:I've been playing through Paul Masvidal's setup on BIAS and it has that high gain + clarity + slightly muffled sound and it really is something I enjoy a lot. It's pleasing in a weird way. I can't figure out what makes that sound or why it sounds good to me. Have you tried Amplitube? How's it compare to BIAS? Mainly interested in the cab/speaker/mic/room simulation part of it.
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Aug 7, 2017 11:34
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Have you tried Amplitube? How's it compare to BIAS? Mainly interested in the cab/speaker/mic/room simulation part of it. I tested both a lot and liked BIAS much more than any of the other amp sims. Admittedly I didn't play around with the cab stuff in Amplitube much but it's great in BIAS FX. You can use IRs too but I'm too entry level to figure that out. Amplitube is good stuff though. I wasn't feeling it but plenty of players have made amazing sounds with it. Anything specific you want to know about BIAS FX?
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Aug 7, 2017 11:38
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philkop posted:Yep. Its a fairly new to me amp but I don't remember anything near this amount of heat before. Switch the speaker to the other output and see what happens. Worst case scenario is you just destroy the single-ended output transformer, which isn't _that_ expensive, unlike big push-pull output transformers with ultralinear taps, multiple secondaries, etc. More than likely they're probably just marked backwards. If you take a picture for me of the leads coming from the transformer I can probably tell you.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:18
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Have you tried Amplitube? How's it compare to BIAS? Mainly interested in the cab/speaker/mic/room simulation part of it. Amplitube is alright. I bought Amplitube 4 and the Fender package last month because I'm trapped in a tiny apartment with very sensitive neighbors for the time being. It takes some getting used to, but I find the tones more usable than anything I was getting out of Logic's stock amp models, and that's really the only thing I cared about.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:20
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^^^^I tried NI's Guitar Rig and hated it. Amplitube is at least passible if I do this: load the Jimi Hendrix Sunn 1200S model and set it to clean (halfway). THEN, I load a 4x12 with Celestion 30s or some minor variant thereof. Then I audition mics and usually go with the dual sm57 (straight w/ angled) and a condenser of some kind, playing with just the right spot on the virtual "cone" to get the best sound I can find. It still sounds way shittier than a real amp cab but I guess that goes without saying.Kilometers Davis posted:I tested both a lot and liked BIAS much more than any of the other amp sims. Admittedly I didn't play around with the cab stuff in Amplitube much but it's great in BIAS FX. You can use IRs too but I'm too entry level to figure that out. Amplitube is good stuff though. I wasn't feeling it but plenty of players have made amazing sounds with it. Well shoot I'll just have to try it, then. I even have a pack of impulses I got a long time ago I meant to try: http://www.rosendigitalaudio.com/downloads/british-producer-pack-3-impulse-response-bundle/ pm me about 'em if you want. Dang It Bhabhi! fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 7, 2017 21:43
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jwh posted:Switch the speaker to the other output and see what happens. Worst case scenario is you just destroy the single-ended output transformer, which isn't _that_ expensive, unlike big push-pull output transformers with ultralinear taps, multiple secondaries, etc. I ended up doing this. Seems to have worked! Much cooler. Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Have you tried Amplitube? How's it compare to BIAS? Mainly interested in the cab/speaker/mic/room simulation part of it. This isn't quite what your asking but I chilled with my studio bud and forgot to bring my amp one time so he took it as a chance to run a bunch of his amp/cab sims by me and the one that felt and sounded best to me was Waves GTR. Like right away too. I wasn't feeling a lot of what he was giving me until he popped that one on and it was instantly usable for me.
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Aug 7, 2017 21:50
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Well shoot I'll just have to try it, then. I even have a pack of impulses I got a long time ago I meant to try: http://www.rosendigitalaudio.com/downloads/british-producer-pack-3-impulse-response-bundle/ No pms but email me buuuud The trial of BIAS FX is solid. I don't know if you can use the tonecloud with it but grabbing people's setups is an awesome way to get an idea about what you can achieve. I've got some favorites I could pass on. Working backwards through their signal chains can give you an idea of how to craft good sounds. I wasn't a fan of the default presets honestly. Kilometers Davis fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Aug 7, 2017 |
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Aug 7, 2017 21:59
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What would be a good amp for death metal & neo-classical practice & play at home? I currently use an AxeFX II, but I find it quite complex and perhaps more than I need. Dialing in a tone I like takes a ton of my time and seems to be too easy to get wrong. Looking for recommendations on what to look for. It seems like a 100w head is way too much if I'm mostly playing at home.
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Aug 7, 2017 22:33
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philkop posted:I ended up doing this. Seems to have worked! Much cooler. Actually... Now I'm going to try that. Waves stuff is always solid. Thanks!
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Aug 7, 2017 22:45
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GreenMarine posted:What would be a good amp for death metal & neo-classical practice & play at home? I currently use an AxeFX II, but I find it quite complex and perhaps more than I need. Dialing in a tone I like takes a ton of my time and seems to be too easy to get wrong. Looking for recommendations on what to look for. It seems like a 100w head is way too much if I'm mostly playing at home. Orange Micro Terror.
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Aug 7, 2017 22:47
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:Orange Micro Terror. The Yamaha THR series are pretty loving sick. Even with distorted tones. If you really only plan on using this as an at home practice tool, I'd take a look at them. Micro Terror could scale up to a gig situation but you'd still need a cab. Also if your serious about neoclassical , get the cleanest practice amp you can find like a small Roland JC type solid state. If your sweeps sound clean on their, they will sound great anywhere.
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Aug 7, 2017 23:57
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This Blackstar HT5R I picked up is good, lots of gain and nice cleans. I've swapped the tubes and speaker cos I am nerd but it was good out of the box
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Aug 8, 2017 02:05
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What would be a good tube amp with a good low end and some very warm, almost chimey sound to them, with enough headroom to sound nice while clean?
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Aug 9, 2017 02:53
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Ferdinand the Bull posted:What would be a good tube amp with a good low end and some very warm, almost chimey sound to them, with enough headroom to sound nice while clean? Sounds like you're looking for a Vox of some sort.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:12
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Pulled out my Red Knob Fender "The Twin" over the weekend only to find there is no reverb. Reverb was already pretty weak the last time I used it, but is nonexistent now. Slap the tank and you get the "crash" of the springs clear as day, so the return side is working. Swapped tubes on the driver side and all I found out was the one spare 12AT7 I have is dead. Borrowed one from another amp, no change in reverb. So now I need to find the time to tear it down and see if there's an obvious culprit. I might break down and take it to someone else, but I really don't want to lug it down the stairs. Most likely I'll just shove it back into the corner for a few more years.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:42
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Kilometers Davis posted:Sounds like you're looking for a Vox of some sort. Agreed, an AC30 or AC15 would do that all day long
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Aug 9, 2017 14:12
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Ferdinand the Bull posted:What would be a good tube amp with a good low end and some very warm, almost chimey sound to them, with enough headroom to sound nice while clean? Deluxe Reverb might be another option, depending on exactly how much headroom you need.
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Aug 9, 2017 16:19
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jwh posted:Deluxe Reverb might be another option, depending on exactly how much headroom you need. Funny thing is, I initially thought I wanted a Vox AC30, but I just couldn't vibe with the way it took my amp-in-a-box pedals (OCD, tubescreamer). I am really leaning towards a Pro Reverb, which I will slowly mod to make it my perfect baby. A silverface Pro Reverb is cheaper than a Deluxe Reverb, which definitely factors into this calculation. Thinking of getting one and following this guide: http://fenderguru.com/amps/pro-reverb/
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Aug 9, 2017 17:56
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Supro
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Aug 9, 2017 17:57
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Ferdinand the Bull posted:Funny thing is, I initially thought I wanted a Vox AC30, but I just couldn't vibe with the way it took my amp-in-a-box pedals (OCD, tubescreamer). Pro Reverb is a great choice actually. Your mileage may vary on the "mod" to pull V1. I've never really seen that make much of a difference. Increasing the gain of the phase inverter means you're going to actually hit the grids of the power tubes even harder, decreasing your headroom. If anything I'd consider changing the long tail pair phase inverter to a 12AY7! I have a vintage 1968 Super Reverb, which is essentially a Pro but with a smaller output transformer and different speaker compliment, and it's a nice amp.
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Aug 9, 2017 19:38
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I have a silverface Super Reverb. http://fenderguru.com/amps/super-reverb/ says replacing the PI (phase inverter?) tube with a higher gain tube would make the amp looser with less attack. Anyone know why that would have that effect? I don't really know what a phase inverter does, and it seems counterintuitive that a higher gain tube would decrease attack.
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Aug 9, 2017 22:08
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Gorgar posted:I have a silverface Super Reverb. http://fenderguru.com/amps/super-reverb/ says replacing the PI (phase inverter?) tube with a higher gain tube would make the amp looser with less attack. Anyone know why that would have that effect? I don't really know what a phase inverter does, and it seems counterintuitive that a higher gain tube would decrease attack. In my terrible, but beloved,  , the phase inverter acts like a timing belt - it takes the preamp signal and tells the power tubes when to "fire". If you swap a higher gain tube than what the amp was designed for, the power section gets to a saturation point earlier. This means less headroom/more distortion, but also more compression.
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Aug 10, 2017 00:18
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Yeah, the phase inverter (or phase splitter) is used in push-pull amps (amps with pairs of output tubes configured in push-pull) to send an in-phase signal of your guitar tone to one power tube and an out of phase signal to the other power tube. When you do this, the tubes "push" and "pull" in unison, and the result is greater output power. But in order to do this you need a way to generate an in phase and out of phase signal of your guitar, hence, the phase inverter. There's a bunch of different types of phase inverters, too: cathodyne, also sometimes called concertina phase splitter, the paraphase, the long tailed pair. The phase inverter's characteristics have a huge influence on how an amp sounds, because most of the time when you hear output stage distortion it's actually the phase inverter breaking down. There's a lot of online discussions of the phase inverter and whether you should use a 12AT7 or 12AX7. Personally, I'd trust the amp designers. Also change your phase inverter when you replace your power tubes!
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Aug 11, 2017 18:26
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Aw man, so basically what everybody is saying is I drank the Kool-Aid.  The only thing I can say to that is, oh well, I'll just keep playing what I have.
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Aug 12, 2017 14:36
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jwh posted:Pro Reverb is a great choice actually. Your mileage may vary on the "mod" to pull V1. I've never really seen that make much of a difference. Increasing the gain of the phase inverter means you're going to actually hit the grids of the power tubes even harder, decreasing your headroom. If anything I'd consider changing the long tail pair phase inverter to a 12AY7! I have a 1967.5/8 Pro Reverb sup buddy. 😎 edit: I meant to add that I agree. The thing is already not much for headroom as it is. Dang It Bhabhi! fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Aug 13, 2017 |
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Aug 13, 2017 03:06
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr6NOsluHYg Anybody know what amp the guitarist is using here? It's obviously a Fender combo but I'm not enough of an amp-spotter to know which one. It looks too square to be a Twin, is it a Super Reverb?
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Aug 13, 2017 03:19
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super reverb too boxy to be a twin
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Aug 13, 2017 03:31
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Medlar posted:Aw man, so basically what everybody is saying is I drank the Kool-Aid. Hey, it doesn't hurt to experiment, maybe you'll like it! At the very least, you'll have a spare 12ax7, which you should have around anyway.
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Aug 13, 2017 14:46
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I've hosed around swapping preamp tubes before. You should do it just to know what it sounds like and how much of a difference things like that make. Preamps tubes are a much cheaper way to do this than power or rectifier tubes.
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Aug 13, 2017 15:17
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Anime Reference posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr6NOsluHYg Yeah, that's a Super. In most live stuff I've seen, though, Ray is playing a Tele through a Marshall, and that sounds more like the records: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SchWFoAr-E
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Aug 13, 2017 16:04
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Hey. If you've been by the New Gear Picture thread, you know I just bought an amp. I bought a used Blackstar HT-5 Head+Cabinet. The used one I played at the music store loving slayed me. I fell in love with it in just minutes. I found one on Reverb for $250 + $50 shipping from WI to NC. So, ok I admit my guilt: I'd heard good things about Blackstar amps but had never actually played one. This one is already out of production. So I'm going to ask a few questions and hope there are enough Blackstar fans/critics to tell me if I did the right thing: Here's the amp in question:  Let's assume it's clean and in fine working order, and makes the trip as such. How's that price? There was a discussion just a few posts up about push-pull power sections, which apparently this amplifier has. Any caveats I should be prepared for? I was really (really!) pleased to see multiple speaker outs and and effects loop at this price. The ISF circuit seems like a neat gimmick, probably pretty useful. No idea about the headphones/recording compensated output (I've pretty much always avoided those things, are they ever any good?) Any components in the amp that are dicey or could/should be upgraded? Any killer mods I should know about (yes yes, I'll google after I go watch GoT and stuff)? I guess I plan to re-tube it right away, but I haven't even looked up what's in the sockets. The cab sounded great, with its stock Blackstar 50W speaker. I do however have a brand new Celestion G12H Heritage Edition in my Blues Jr. that I could put in there. Should I consider that? Any other thoughts, pro or con on this HT-5 guy? It sure did impress me (both channels). Tell me, Amp thread, did I do gud?
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Aug 14, 2017 02:37
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Nice choice man. They're underrated imo - I think because they're new and reasonably priced they don't really have the appeal of the big "cult" brands or of niche hand built stuff. You won't see big acts playing them, but loads of local smaller bands, cover bands and session guys seem to get great sounds out of 'em. I love my little blackstar. I have the 1 watt combo which I think is the same circuit but without an eq? I was expecting to pick up the little vht or vox tube amp but ended up choosing this one. It just sounded better. For me the isf stays fixed at the far left of the dial, the "american" setting. I think it sounds like a tighter fender amp, although I've never played a Mesa. It sounds ok at 12-ish but the Marshall side of it sounds muddy to me, but maybe the bigger version with eq can fix that a little. The little one definitely sounds better through a cab with celestions, but that is possibly because the built in is 8 inches. I'm pretty sure the "overdrive" channel, at least in the 1 watt version, uses clipping diodes and sounds a bit lovely. However, the "clean" channel is more of a crunch channel - easily does metal with an sd1/tubescreamer. EDIT: I looked at pics of the 5 watt, and it has an actual clean channel and 2 modes of overdrive. I believe the 1w just has the overdrive section with 2 modes. The second "heavier" one uses diodes, I think. For me, I have two favorite settings. I set the gain around half way for a kinda overdriven clean and play a rat into it for my heavy sound. Or, for really clean stuff, I max the volume knob and then inch the gain up for volume. Sounds really nice this way, great for jazzy poo poo. field balm fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Aug 14, 2017 |
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Aug 14, 2017 10:52
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Man, there is a lot of controversy and not a lot of the information I actually need about this amp online (specifically the Blackstar HT-5 Head + Cabinet "half-stack.") I just wanted to look up the amp type and order new tubes. It is not that simple with this circuit. (caveat: I kept getting confused by the power tube, the term I needed was dual-triode. So ignore my mangling of terminology because dual-triode makes sense but I didn't know exactly what it was when I wrote all this crap.) Blackstar has been very circumspect about the power section. It's a push-pull section that uses a tube that isn't your everyday power tube like an EL-34/84 or 6V6/6L6 or other bigger bottles. It's a 12BH7 which is not exactly a power section tube per se. It gets very complicated from here and it has good reasons to be. Blackstar's position seems to be something like this: The power section is not user-serviceable. If you want to change out the power tube you must take the amp to a BS licensed amp tech. It makes sense, in a way. In my Blues Jr. I can go on YouTube and learn just how to use my multimeter to check the bias but this amp is... correct me if I'm wrong, cathode-based. Or the power tube is. This means that there are places to measure voltages but the tube is like two or three power tubes all in one. The amp has a bias trim-pot and a balance trim-pot. One adjusts the overall plate voltage (I think) and the other helps spread it out so the two/three sections of this tube all bear the same dissipation. It's fuckin' complicated. Blackstar doesn't want to make it transparent but I think it's mostly down to circuit trade secrets (it appears to be that this amp is based on a preamp pedal turned into a head/combo) and limitation of liability (there are 400+V lurking in several places and the amp may not be too user-friendly to self-service.) Now, in my hours of reading and searching I have found some interesting threads, and some completely contradictory claims about all manner of characteristics of the HT-5 Head. I've also uncovered some schematics (over my head for sure) and some other documents that might help. On the more worrying side I ran into the following "tales." The 12BH7, under the best of conditions, is being run at or above the dissipation levels the tube can handle. It's pushed hard from the factory. That's ok if it "only" shortens the life of that tube. It's not so "ok" if the tube red-plates. It's even more not-so-ok if the resistors on the PCB get so hot they either burn up or (way worse) turn the PCB conductive, requiring major surgery to relocate components (mostly transistors and diodes) to stop voltage loss straight to ground due to burnt the gently caress PCB. Ok, this is a lot to absorb at once. Now, it gets better (not better). In any normal tube amp you can swap out power tubes with the same type/brand and expect to hit whatever dissipation/usage you had biased in before. 70% is supposedly ideal, so you take the old tube out, you put the new tube in, you should be able to measure 70% based on the tube's data sheet. NOT SO with the 12BH7. This is a very old tube and it's not well-standardized so if you put in a new one, you better learn how to read a triode with your multimeter even though Blackstar won't tell you (or at least I can only find some evidence) what that voltage should be or where to measure it! But no worries, the 12BH7 is only being pushed way too hard by the circuit so .... wait let me start over.... The amp seems to push the 12BH7 past its designed dissipation to get that "100-watt amp power section distortion" sound (which I didn't hear when I played it because I didn't play it THAT loud) but trying to dial in a bias (and don't forget the balance) is an arcane art that Blackstar doesn't want me to do without finding a BS tech and paying them. Well, the preamp tube is 1 12AX7 and so I know how to get one of those. Unfortunately, the power amp section seems to be triple biased and balanced based on the exact tube that is installed when the amp is built. Want to change that tube? Well, first of all EH makes one for $17, but mostly they seem to only be available as NOS, which can run $60+ for the one tube. I don't want to risk swapping one out just to red-plate it and maybe kill the amp, or find out it sounds bad with the new tube. It's a weird circuit, is all I can say. I'm going to wait for delivery and play it, maybe try some different 12AX7 tubes in it. The 12BH7 should last a long time, except for it being run very hot stock from the factory, which will definitely shorten its lifespan. I'm staying positive, because despite the weird ravings I've read in forums overnight I can say for sure that the amp I played yesterday sounded GREAT. Perfect for my needs and wants (until some dude came along and actually said it *doesn't* take pedals well.) Good thing it has an effects loop, because I'm putting all of my modulation effects in the loop ASAP. I wasn't expecting the mystery shrouding the power section tube and how to bias it. I was expecting weird negative reviews that reflect the opposite of my own experience, because that's par. I'll come back when I actually get the amp and a chance to play it as is. Dr. Faustus fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Aug 14, 2017 |
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Aug 14, 2017 12:32
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Dr. Faustus posted:Man, there is a lot of controversy and not a lot of the information I actually need about this amp online (specifically the Blackstar HT-5 Head + Cabinet "half-stack.") That's technically the advice of every amp manufacturer, though. This is a CYA thing to prevent people from mucking around near high B+ voltages. With respect to the 12bh7, don't worry about it. EH is making them new, and so is JJ. You're correct that the 12bh7 is not a conventional pentode- it's not, it's a dual triode, just like a 12ax7, but it's intended application is different. The 12bh7 was originally a television driver tube. It can source about 20x the current as a 12ax7, and it can dissipate 3.5x the plate wattage. I suspect why they really used this tube is they could get about five watts out of it with an inexpensive push-pull transformer, it required a single tube and tube socket, and it wasn't that expensive. In fact it was probably cheap. quote:It makes sense, in a way. In my Blues Jr. I can go on YouTube and learn just how to use my multimeter to check the bias but this amp is... correct me if I'm wrong, cathode-based. Or the power tube is. This means that there are places to measure voltages but the tube is like two or three power tubes all in one. The amp has a bias trim-pot and a balance trim-pot. One adjusts the overall plate voltage (I think) and the other helps spread it out so the two/three sections of this tube all bear the same dissipation. Blues Junior is fixed bias (which actually means adjustable bias). Cathode biased is self-biasing. If you want the easy way to telling the difference, look at the schematic and look for a resistor on the cathodes of the power tubes. Fixed bias will ground the cathodes. What you're adjusting when you adjust the bias in a fixed bias amp is the negative voltage applied to the grids of the power tubes. This has the effect of controlling how much current is flowing in the tube when the tube is idle. As the guitar signal causes a positive and negative AC voltage to modulate the grid the corresponding current in the power tube rises and falls, which in turn causes the magnetic field in the output transformer to send more or less current to the speaker. Cathode biasing puts a resistor on the cathode of the power tube so that as current flows through that resistor, a positive voltage develops. This has the effect of making the grid negative with respect to the cathode. As more current flows in this resistor the more negative the grid appears to be, and as less current flows the less the grid appears to be negative. It balances itself out. This is why cathode-biased is referred to as 'self-biasing'. The more current flows the more the grid becomes negative relative to the cathode and the more the tube stops conducting until it finds a level. The Blackstar HT-5 is cathode biased. quote:It's fuckin' complicated. Blackstar doesn't want to make it transparent but I think it's mostly down to circuit trade secrets (it appears to be that this amp is based on a preamp pedal turned into a head/combo) and limitation of liability (there are 400+V lurking in several places and the amp may not be too user-friendly to self-service.) quote:Now, in my hours of reading and searching I have found some interesting threads, and some completely contradictory claims about all manner of characteristics of the HT-5 Head. I've also uncovered some schematics (over my head for sure) and some other documents that might help. On the more worrying side I ran into the following "tales." quote:Ok, this is a lot to absorb at once. there is literally nothing for the tech to bias, it's self-biasing. I wouldn't worry about it. Besides, in audio applications the 12bh7 is rated for 300 volts on the plates. In TV applications it's 450 volts on the plates. It's the same tube. Trust the engineers. quote:Well, the preamp tube is 1 12AX7 and so I know how to get one of those. jwh fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Aug 14, 2017 |
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Aug 14, 2017 16:45
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jwh posted:I promise you you're reading more than 50% uninformed nonsense from people who really shouldn't be weighing on on things they know nothing about. and with that the entire guitarist message board community disappears in a puff of green smoke
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Aug 14, 2017 20:31
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