|
monsterzero posted:By comparison this is EZ30D 
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2017 11:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 14:09 |
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:So does this outdo the Audi rear timing chain? Not even remotely close, that chains on the front of the engine and about 1/8 as complex. This is the Audi http://i.imgur.com/Sf6jRI5.jpg Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Aug 13, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2017 13:38
|
|
|
Warmed up the bellhousing and pulled the dowel that was keeping it from mating up with the engine. I might be able to get the transmission into the 240SX today!
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2017 22:22
|
|
|
I put the first part onto the truck today. Replaced a rotted section of a body mount with fresh steel. I probably spent an hour shaping the replacement piece of steel but it went in very nicely. After the picture below I hit it with a cold galvanizing spray, which will get topped with rubberized underbody spray. Just one more to do, and like 2-3 pieces of 16ga steel to replace the rotted floorboards. There's a small gap between this body mount and the floor pan which will collect dirt and rot again if left untreated, I need to find a way to prevent it from collecting dirt in the first place, I might crawl under it and surround it with seam sealer before I apply undercoating. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 01:18
|
|
|
Got it running. Again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uFJGd6PsiA Then I found out the difference between Large Bolt Pattern Rims and Small Bolt Pattern rims on old Dodges! My uncle had swapped out the small front hubs for larger ones, which I'd discovered after buying 4 Small Bolt Pattern rims and already putting the tires on them!   Coming along though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 03:18
|
|
|
Gerblederp posted:Got it running. Again. loving rad, that sounds so good.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 13:20
|
|
|
Gerblederp posted:Got it running. Again. Excellent!
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 16:31
|
|
|
Gerblederp posted:Got it running. Again. Yeah! Sounds nasty.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 16:50
|
|
|
what is it about those older muscle era cars that sound so cool
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
No noise regulations or catalytic converters. Just pipes and a small muffler.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 18:46
|
|
|
Another fun OLD DODGE FEATURE: Left Hand threads for the wheel studs one one side and Right Hand thread for the other.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 18:53
|
|
|
My wife's B14 200SX SE-R (think faster lovely French Sentra) was intermittently not starting, and not even cranking. I had bought an ignition switch for it a long time ago, but forgot why I did so, and never installed it. Taking the logical leap that a starter switch might conceivably be the cause of a starting problem, I installed the part. Now it starts really well, though I was never able to reproduce the no-start situation and every panicked phone call from a parking lot was usually capped with the sound of the car starting and running happily. Very surprised at how thick the interior plastics are. I think this is the first time I've ever put a steering column back together again without breaking a clip.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 02:47
|
|
|
Gerblederp posted:Another fun OLD DODGE FEATURE: Left Hand threads for the wheel studs one one side and Right Hand thread for the other. there is a right and left side to every car and I think things should be threaded accordingly.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 10:18
|
|
|
Gerblederp posted:Another fun OLD DODGE FEATURE: Left Hand threads for the wheel studs one one side and Right Hand thread for the other. And they are swapped for those in the southern hemisphere.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 14:25
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:My wife's B14 200SX SE-R (think faster lovely French Sentra) was intermittently not starting, and not even cranking. Update: managed to get it to fail in the garage, so now it reliably doesn't start and I am around to diagnose it. Now when I turn the key to the start position, I hear a loud clunk that I think is the starter solenoid engaging. Pulled the battery and put it on a tender. Would check voltages but all four of my multimeters have gone walkabout. The battery has leaked little piles of acid ever since I've had it, so I wouldn't be surprised if it has finally packed it in after only ~4 years. Would pull the starter, but Nissan has put it on the underside of the car, right in the middle, and not feeling like jacking it up right now. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Update: managed to get it to fail in the garage, so now it reliably doesn't start and I am around to diagnose it. Now when I turn the key to the start position, I hear a loud clunk that I think is the starter solenoid engaging. Pulled the battery and put it on a tender. Would check voltages but all four of my multimeters have gone walkabout. You've pretty much just guaranteed it's the starter, right?
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 17:55
|
|
|
What did you do to your sister-in-law's ride today? '06 Honda Odyssey, broken power-door cable.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 19:13
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Update: managed to get it to fail in the garage, so now it reliably doesn't start and I am around to diagnose it. Now when I turn the key to the start position, I hear a loud clunk that I think is the starter solenoid engaging. Pulled the battery and put it on a tender. Would check voltages but all four of my multimeters have gone walkabout. It sound like a weak electrical connection that falls down when the battery gets taxed imo. Clean all your grounds to eliminate that as a culprit. Id get a new battery too because it alone could cause all these symptoms. If it tries to start but cant I think its a bad wire or connection somewhere giving you resistance. If you get no click, no nothing, its more likely a switch thats failed or a component. When a switch fails or loses contact it just cant complete the circuit so there is no try, its just dead. Or a ground is intermittent but that seems unlikely unless it is the starter ground thats bad any of the others would probably lead to weak lights and and charging issues running bad
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 20:46
|
|
|
My wife's '06 Fusion has been on again/off again hard shifting in the lower gears. Considering the transmission is AFAIK factory-original and is nearing 200k miles I just assumed it was finally about to die, but then I found a video of some mechanic troubleshooting an '06 Mazda 3 with the same drivetrain setup (2.3 Duratec/MZR with a FNR5 automatic) exhibiting similar symptoms. Turns out the MAF was dirty and causing a lean condition which somehow materializes as a hard shift in the lower gears - cleaned the MAF and its back to shifting smoothly again. Strangest combination of issue/symptom I've ever encountered.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 02:47
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:And installed. Ready for a trackday tomorrow They are thin enough to directly replace stock solid rotors? How thick are those?
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 20:55
|
|
|
DogonCrook posted:It sound like a weak electrical connection that falls down when the battery gets taxed imo. Clean all your grounds to eliminate that as a culprit. Id get a new battery too because it alone could cause all these symptoms. Yeah, I banged a new battery into it and it fired right up. That said, now it occasionally won't start, doing a loud thunk that sounds like the starter solenoid every time I turn the key to start. Still better than before, where the starter solenoid would thunk every time I turned the key, with no attempt to crank. If I turn the key from 'on' to 'start' enough times in succession, it will immediately crank and fire, so if it is a bad connection it's a pretty binary one. Relay? The clunk definitely sounds meatier than a relay, which is why I think it's the starter solenoid. It also sounds like it's coming from the centre-bottom of the car, which is about where the starter is located. Now that I'm thinking about it I should check to see if there's a stub cable that goes from the starter solenoid to the starter; I had assumed since they were on the same structure they were somehow internally linked but that's probably not the case. I ordered a new starter, which is sort of awkward since apparently they're on backorder at most parts stores. Now that the car is mobile, I'm also going to try and get it on a four post lift so I can feel if the solenoid is actually working or if it's in my head. The old battery was hissing and venting gas when I pulled it from the car, so my operating theory is that it's a marginal starter that drew so many amps it grenaded an already questionable battery through a dead short, and after replacing the battery whatever finally let go inside the starter is still lovely. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Aug 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 21:08
|
|
|
How much of a voltage drop are you seeing when it just clunks? Close to nothing, or significant? My Altima was doing that for most of the time I owned it, even with a new battery. It was completely random, usually happened a couple of times a week, but it pulled voltage down pretty hard (down to about 9 volts), and the cables would get hot in a hurry. Slamming the key into start repeatedly would get it to start after a few tries, and once the starter finally decided to do its job, it usually sounded healthy (occasionally it would sound real weak for the first revolution or two, even with a fresh battery and on a warm start) I always figured the starter was about to croak, but I drove it for a few years like that. Never got noticeably worse.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 00:26
|
|
|
Yeah thay sounds like the starter or the solenoid. Flicking the key is probably wiggling it loose just like banging on it would.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 00:55
|
|
|
DoLittle posted:They are thin enough to directly replace stock solid rotors? How thick are those? They are thicker than stock, the caliper mount was machined out and you need to run pads that are 2mm thinner on each side. 282 x 16.0mm (OEM is 282 x 12mm solid)
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 03:14
|
|
|
Noticed one of the dually's front tires was low last night, so I pulled it up to the main garage this morning. It's a tire i plugged like 9 months ago, so I figured I'd get away with simply replugging it. Wrong. (after several plug attempts) https://vimeo.com/230053148 So that ended me here. I had to throw the inside right rear on the right front because it matched the tread depth of the left front. Then move the spare to the inside right rear and button everything back up. Hoping to find a 2/3 worn discoverer at3 to keep this set of 6 going for another 7500 miles or so.  Then DannyWIlson and I got to talking about his Starion this morning, so I woke it up...  Took a family picture...  And then rearranged the garage so I could get the running Starion on the lift to take care of some coolant leaks...  There's one leak...  There's a lot more leak...poo poo. https://vimeo.com/230053187
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 20:49
|
|
|
Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:How much of a voltage drop are you seeing when it just clunks? Close to nothing, or significant? Was it an automatic? On a whim while waiting for the replacement starter to arrive, I pulled the inhibitor relay (instructions for replacing starters on Nissans all have fine print telling me to replace the inhibitor relay or the clutch switch relay with a brand new one). Contacts on both sides were clean, so I gave it a squirt with contact cleaner before putting it back in the fuse box. I haven't been able to reproduce the just-clunks problem yet and I've been trying off and on throughout the day, always starts. I know in my heart I haven't fixed this thing. It has to be the starter/solenoid. I would assume the inhibitor relay would stop the solenoid from being engaged period.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 00:35
|
|
|
Every now and again my vw bus just has a voltage drop, no click, when trying to start. I either have to put my second battery into emergency combine mode to parallel it with the starting battery (still 13.5V when off, good voltage and brand new battery), or put the car in gear and bump the bus forward/back a bit Then, it starts just fine. I know in my heart of hearts it's a bad starter/solenoid, but I replaced it last year and don't want to go down there again. My dad had a dedicated poking stick (broom handle) for his 83 Ranger's starter solenoid. Every other start for like 15 years, give it a thwack.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 00:46
|
|
|
In my last post I had talked about future plans for the v-trooper, including a center support bushing, spacers, studs, and a locker. These past 2 weekends I tackled those things which, admittedly, are simple jobs in hindsight. I would have wrapped things up sooner had I not destroyed a center support bushing by installing it backwards but, besides changing lug studs, this is the first time i've done any of these jobs. The whole wagon is filled with a bunch of firsts and, thats rad but, its definitely got its learning moments. Also, since its my daily, it's function over form. Center support bushing & bearing.  For anyone doing this job in the future; it doesn't matter which way the bearing is facing but the rubber bushing is another story. Sunny day; chasing bum parts away.  Don't worry; giant rubber wheel chock on the other side. Upsie Daisy until you're all jacked up!   Tin-men have a short shelf life here in MN. Lets see how she bangs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_dTmAoGJq0 She bangs Early in my youth my father endowed me with the knowledge that oil & grease are great rust inhibitors.  Wisdom Make sure to mark your orientation  however crude it maybe Disconnect the front & rear flanges  4 bolts each. 15mm bolt head with 18mm nut on the back. After the flanges are disconnected theres 4 remaing 12mm bolts attaching the center support bracket to the undercarriage of the car. Unbolt these and wrestle out your 2 piece prop-shaft  Here is a close up of our dearly departed  RIP An additional two (2) 12mm bolts hold the support bushing to the bracket  Separating the bracket from bushing, mark your prop-shaft orientation, and simply pull apart the 2 pieces.  Future me will use a hammer & punch, because all that rust-preventing grease/oil will smear any marks made. The alignment & thus balance between these 2 pieces are crucial. Helpful smearing shown here  This will get cleaned up, but ish.  I was able to pull the outer metal bushing liner off, but the remaining rubber & inner bushing will need to be cut away so the 3 jaw puller can bite into the bearing  [whirling of air powered cut-off tool]  [whirling continues]  The nick on the bushing & upper/lower dust rings is sloppy, but inconsequential.  Ill end up ruining the lower dust ring by pulling that & the bearing up together. Oops. I stopped snapping pictures at this point. What you don't see is me using the medium sized 3 jaw puller i rented from oh'really? auto and pulling the bearing off the shaft by grabbing the lower dust ring, consequently warping it in the process. I wiped the mating surfaces with brake cleaner, applied mobil 1 synthetic bearing grease, and seated the half-assedly straightened dust ring along with bearing by using a 2"x6" galvanized nipple & 2# mally-wapper. It really didn't take too many tools to get this accomplished  Then my brother showed up. Later, he flaked out  He spilled a whole bottle of prom dress on his car today https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuLg2ac9roI What you can't see is the triple weber blow-through turbo set-up but thats neither here nor there. Control your gaze! Instead, lets look at the dunce who didn't reference his early disassembly pictures & unknowingly installed the support bushing backwards.  Nah thats p minor what could go wrong? *banging intensifies (50 miles from home)* Oh.  Ill follow-up with the remainder of this adventure soon. As a parting gift I leave you with a comparison of my wagon with my wife's stock 1990 740   Thanks to everyone who gave positive comments on this project, btw, I'm glad this isn't that big of an abomination. 
stone soup fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Aug 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 02:56
|
|
|
A quality post
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 03:30
|
|
|
Transmission sealed up. Note: the standard gasket kit for a T-19 will not have the right gasket or seal for the output shaft of an International. Never trust any standard kit will have the right parts ever. Tranny and bellhousing will be painted before bedtime. Not bad for a Thursday. Goal is to have the drivetrain put back together this weekend so I can focus on the flooring rust repair. Whole truck must be done by 9/11.  Edit: painted. I love that hammered paint it makes a lovely cast iron part look nice. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Aug 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 03:42
|
|
|
That metalflake Z is incredible. It's like a strip club was crushed by lava flows and formed stratigraphic layers.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 05:05
|
|
|
I bought two 5 gallon gas cans and strapped em into the bed. We're going to try and see the eclipse and it's a bit of gas outage/shortage insurance. Theoretically I can now go 1058 miles without refueling at the EPA highway rating. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 05:22
|
|
|
scrubs season six posted:I bought two 5 gallon gas cans and strapped em into the bed. We're going to try and see the eclipse and it's a bit of gas outage/shortage insurance. Hell yeah 
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 08:20
|
|
|
scrubs season six posted:I bought two 5 gallon gas cans and strapped em into the bed. We're going to try and see the eclipse and it's a bit of gas outage/shortage insurance. Nice! Your setup inspired me to browse NATO style 20L jerry-cans. They're on the spendy side but, from what I can tell, they would be leak-free so I could mount inside the rear hatch. I still have reservations about keeping fuel inside the cabin, though, but if i mount it externally then my worry becomes theft of a pricey can. I don't actually need this set-up for daily-duties yet I'm still trying to justify it to myself.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 14:47
|
|
|
Wally Joyner posted:Nice! That's the jerry can I bought three months ago when I was sick and tired of the lovely CARB fuel can I had that leaked all over the place constantly. I can vouch that it does not leak at all, and I drive with it strapped down in the back of my expedition all the time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 18:12
|
|
|
Justification achieved! Thanks for chiming in; thats exactly what I was curious about. Cheers
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 18:17
|
|
|
Been dealing with a very slight misfire in the S2000 for a couple of months. About a week ago it went full CEL, and turned out to be a dead coilpack on cylinder 2. Apparently, this was a coincidence. Very slight idle miss remained. Went to a trackday over the weekend and got a full non-blinking CEL after my time attack session (took 2nd place), cylinder 2 misfire detected. Ordered a set of injectors from eBay this week, since they are a known problem area. Injectors arrived today, except I only got three of the four and they were not OEM as described.... installed one on cylinder 2 and it was completely dead so I swapped the new o rings from the new injector to my old injector and now the car is smooth as gently caress. edit: The difference is night and day. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Aug 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 02:27
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Was it an automatic? No, manual, so no inhibitor to deal with. But when they fail, they usually fail open (and you definitely wouldn't get a clunk).
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 05:24
|
|
|
I put a roof rack on my 2015 Honda fit lol
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 17:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 14:09 |
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Was it an automatic? On a whim while waiting for the replacement starter to arrive, I pulled the inhibitor relay (instructions for replacing starters on Nissans all have fine print telling me to replace the inhibitor relay or the clutch switch relay with a brand new one). Contacts on both sides were clean, so I gave it a squirt with contact cleaner before putting it back in the fuse box. Yeah to me it still sounds like voltage loss and if it isnt the starter sucking all that juice and the solenoid works its a bad connection. The battery is charging and the alternator works fine. A bad neutral safety switch isnt going to trigger the solenoid, neither would a bad ignition switch. It runs fine so the fault is likely in the high power side of the ignition circuit because it only rears its head when starting and its not draining anything. Imo clean all the connections in that circuit. The starter may be bad and sucking too much juice. If its not that its the wires to it most likely imo.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 19:29
|
|