|
Also no wonder small used 3d scanners can be had for cheap, apparently they are not actually good at anything 
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 18:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 10:15 |
|
|
Mister Sinewave posted:Also no wonder small used 3d scanners can be had for cheap, apparently they are not actually good at anything It probably won't help with what you want to do, but RCLifeOn did a video about reproducing real life items with hundreds of photos and AutoDesk ReMake, which gives you a polygon dense model. There's a fair amount of time involved from taking the photos, waiting for remake to turn them into a model, clean up, etc, but the results are decent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2VazVGm7TU
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 19:01
|
|
|
My Original i3 came in yesterday, so today I start building! The only cad software I've used is TinkerCAD, but I was thinking I'd use SketchUp to start out. I've actually used it before, but that was about 13 years ago so I doubt much of that experience will translate  Should I just try out a few different free cad programs, or is something like Fusion360 the way to go? E: huh I thought when Google bought SketchUp they made it free. I can get an education license for cheap though, so I guess it's still an option CloFan fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Aug 15, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 19:52
|
|
|
Sketchup is the worst program to use for 3d printing modeling. Pick up Fusion360 on the Startup/Maker license (free registration). Better in every conceivable way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 20:01
|
|
|
Sketchup will happily spit out a non-printable model, and it's a pain in the rear end to troubleshoot. Tinkercad is cool if you're a literal child, but Fusion360 is free for hobbyists and really worth learning.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 20:05
|
|
|
Yay I find what I was looking for! I took apart the cartridge I do have and that in addition to this picture it all makes sense. Thanks again team.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 20:20
|
|
|
CloFan posted:My Original i3 came in yesterday, so today I start building! The only cad software I've used is TinkerCAD, but I was thinking I'd use SketchUp to start out. I've actually used it before, but that was about 13 years ago so I doubt much of that experience will translate I modeled a lot of stuff in TinkerCAD that I should have just used F360 for. Put in the half a dozen hours to learn fusion, it's awesome. Though some stuff is a bit weird. I still can't really wrap my head around the align tool, or the move by measurement thing. I keep "getting it", then immediately forget. Also, workflow seems really important and I don't really understand the difference between a body and a component or components within components. I also have no idea what an assembly is no matter what I read.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 20:43
|
|
|
awesomeolion posted:Yay I find what I was looking for! I took apart the cartridge I do have and that in addition to this picture it all makes sense. Thanks again team. Thats good, looks like it was a pretty simple hack too. In other news today I tried to learn fusion360. It seems pretty complex but I made a model of a robot dude called Noodlefeet. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 21:34
|
|
|
Sketchup -> Tinkercad -> Fusion 360 is not a bad progression Sketchup works the way someone who doesn't do CAD expects poo poo to work. That alone makes it noteworthy. It's not great beyond that and you'll hit limitations soon. Tinkercad is nice for its ability to more or less accept the skills and though processes (and awareness of limitations) gained from working with Sketchup. Tinkercad has a good interactive tutorial that will teach you what you need to know. You'll forget everything you knew with Sketchup and never need to remember. Fusion 360 is a pretty big leap from Tinkercad ~~BUT~~ many of the concepts you learned and started to think with in Tinkercad carry over very well. But you'll have to learn a whole new UI and poo poo. If you started to do CAD with Tinkercad enough to start to find having only the GROUP/UNGROUP tool as troublesome, then you're ripe to move on.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 22:04
|
|
|
tuyop posted:I modeled a lot of stuff in TinkerCAD that I should have just used F360 for. Put in the half a dozen hours to learn fusion, it's awesome. Yeah fusion 360 is great and free but there's still a lot of things it does really weirdly compared to Solidworks. The body/component distinction is a mess and that is why assemblies are so awkward. The trick is, when creating a new feature that's going to touch body 1, but will be a separate piece when you print, you create a new component and make the feature part of that. Then it won't automatically merge with body 1. The workflow just sucks, but I think that's because I'm used to solidworks where the equivalent history thing is really important, unlike in fusion where it feels like an afterthought. I suspect if solidworks came out with a hobby level program they'd blow fusion out of the water.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 22:21
|
|
|
Tom Sanladerer emailed me this afternoon, I won one of the Prusas in his giveaway.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 22:31
|
|
|
Whoa, nice!
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 22:40
|
|
|
mewse posted:Tom Sanladerer emailed me this afternoon, I won one of the Prusas in his giveaway. Congratulations! For the guy who wanted to change a point cloud to a model apparently MeshLab can do that, no idea how good it is though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 22:45
|
|
|
mewse posted:Tom Sanladerer emailed me this afternoon, I won one of the Prusas in his giveaway. Sweet! I use Solidworks ($50/yr student edition) but it lacks the extra modules.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2017 23:47
|
|
|
mewse posted:Tom Sanladerer emailed me this afternoon, I won one of the Prusas in his giveaway. I hate you now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 02:11
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Yeah, woah there, killa. The Cocoon Create is not on offer from the store and it looks to run around $400ish here in Australia. The cheapest thing on offer from this store is the UP Mini 2. My plan was to get something cheap but I'm looking at this like my drones expedition all over again. It wasn't until I got a decent one that I enjoyed and understood why people got into them so heavily. The cheaper drone just never delivered what I wanted and my concern is I will end up giving up out of sheer frustration. If it counts for anything I've made a pretty solid career out of tech and figuring it out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 03:19
|
|
|
KillaZilla posted:The Cocoon Create is not on offer from the store and it looks to run around $400ish here in Australia. The cheapest thing on offer from this store is the UP Mini 2. Take a good look at what other people are printing on the printers you are looking at, thats the kind of thing you will be making. I feel that if you go into this knowing that after a ton of trial and error what your prints are going to be like, you will be ok. I think some people still have unrealistic expectations of what they will be able to deliver. The most important thing i found to explain to people is that it takes a LONG time to print most things, multiple hours for even what I might consider a "small" print. If you know all that and have followed along then just pick whichever printer you think will give you the features you want, dual extruding or certain temperatures or build volumes or even aftermarket parts.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 03:27
|
|
|
You've converted way more than a thousand dollars into literal poop and flushed it down the toilet. At least a thousand dollar 3D printer will give you a few months of entertainment. Don't skimp, just get into it if you have the means.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 14:03
|
|
|
Bored-at-work brainstorm... the more I think about it, the more conventional extruders seem kinda ill-suited to what I have in mind. Definitely going to troubleshoot with a nice normal Volcano and such, but I'm thinking I might need to start doing pellet extruder R&D. When the goal is multiple-pound prints, the cost difference between a 10 pound spool and 10 pounds of pellets seems a lot more significant.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 14:45
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:Bored-at-work brainstorm... the more I think about it, the more conventional extruders seem kinda ill-suited to what I have in mind. Definitely going to troubleshoot with a nice normal Volcano and such, but I'm thinking I might need to start doing pellet extruder R&D. When the goal is multiple-pound prints, the cost difference between a 10 pound spool and 10 pounds of pellets seems a lot more significant. Look into the Part Daddy, its a huge (18 feet tall) Delta printer, it uses pellets sucked up into the nozzle with a cheap vacuum. I imagine unless you are printing many pounds of material that the effort of building a pellet melting head might be an issue though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 14:58
|
|
|
KillaZilla posted:The Cocoon Create is not on offer from the store and it looks to run around $400ish here in Australia. The cheapest thing on offer from this store is the UP Mini 2. Yeah, Australia gets hosed on 3d printer prices. I'm using the US equivalent to the Cocoon Create as my primary 3d printer and have never seen the need to invest in a much more expensive Lulzbot machine, as the printer I use right now has never failed to print what I wanted to print (I know what I'm doing though). My out of pocket costs for my printer at the time I bought it was $250 USD though (on sale).
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 15:20
|
|
|
Kea posted:Look into the Part Daddy, its a huge (18 feet tall) Delta printer, it uses pellets sucked up into the nozzle with a cheap vacuum. I imagine unless you are printing many pounds of material that the effort of building a pellet melting head might be an issue though. I've seen that before - I think that may be a bit larger than I need.  But yeah, I completely agree, if I wasn't trying to come up with a setup to print many pounds of material at a time, the effort of doing a pellet melting head would be an issue.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 15:26
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:I've seen that before - I think that may be a bit larger than I need. Some sort of screw mechanism to force pellets into the extruder might work, im sure you could work out a way to do it with a bit of trial and error/copying off people who have allready done it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 15:42
|
|
|
Kea posted:Some sort of screw mechanism to force pellets into the extruder might work, im sure you could work out a way to do it with a bit of trial and error/copying off people who have allready done it. Agreed on both points; looking at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1847917 as a sort of baseline, with some modifications given that I have the ability to do metal castings. ... this weighs in on my "CoreXY vs make more compromises for rigidity" thoughts too, though I'll have to see what Solidworks says the mass will end up at.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 16:05
|
|
|
Kea posted:Some sort of screw mechanism to force pellets into the extruder
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 16:20
|
|
|
You guys might know this but years ago there was a large bounty available for whoever could come up with an economical way to extrude pellets as filament. http://hackaday.com/2013/03/05/finally-a-machine-that-makes-cheap-3d-printer-filament/ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34653 I think the Filastruder is a similar design.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 16:35
|
|
|
Sure, but as I recall, the issue gets to be that holding a really consistent diameter on the filament is hard, and that's pretty necessary for the extrusion volume calculations. ... or as I'm kind of thinking of it, "for this printer why bother with filament at all?"
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:AKA an auger Yeah I googled quickly and of course there was a ton of work put into it allready, good to see though.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 16:45
|
|
|
insta posted:You've converted way more than a thousand dollars into literal poop and flushed it down the toilet. At least a thousand dollar 3D printer will give you a few months of entertainment. this is a really lovely analogy
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 18:47
|
|
|
How would a direct pellet extruder deal with retractions? I feel like it'd be simpler to just get a separate pellet to filament extruder, rather than integrating it onto the printer. CoreXY works well with direct extruders - check out the Voron. Looks like the E3D titan is specifically designed as a low mass direct extruder.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 19:39
|
|
|
There's a segment of the 3D printing community that doesn't really understand manufacturing technology and really focuses hard on bootstrapping everything from first principles. Like, the planet makes hundreds of kilometers of aluminum extrusions every day. We have the ability to make strong, straight linear rails cheaply and accurately in massive quantities. Yet there are still people in the community trying to design printers that replace basic metal parts like this with inferior 3D printed components out of the misguided idea that printers should be able to print themselves. Similarly, we have people trying to make desktop filament extruders out of the idea that that step is the real stumbling block on the way to self-reliance (and not, say, production of the plastic pellets from chemical precursors) -- when there are already factories devoted to making plastic filament faster and better than you could ever do at home, and for a lower price too, if all factors are taken into account.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 20:04
|
|
|
rawrr posted:How would a direct pellet extruder deal with retractions? I feel like it'd be simpler to just get a separate pellet to filament extruder, rather than integrating it onto the printer. Well retraction is literally just stopping the pressure on the filament so it doesnt squirt out more plastic, I imagine if the Auger isnt pressing down on the pellets then there will be no/little pressure. Should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 20:14
|
|
|
Kea posted:Well retraction is literally just stopping the pressure on the filament so it doesnt squirt out more plastic, I imagine if the Auger isnt pressing down on the pellets then there will be no/little pressure. Should be fine. No, retraction is an actual retraction that yanks backwards a little bit. When you compress molten plastic inside the nozzle, the polymer chains actually compress like tiny little springs and then expand when the pressure is released. That causes the nozzle oozing that retraction is designed to prevent (by yanking the filament back and giving it a little bit of space to expand inside). The same phenomenon is why when you extrude in air, the bit of extruded filament is larger in diameter than the nozzle. The polymer chains expand as soon as the nozzle constraint is no longer there, and the whole thing grows a bit. More pressure = greater eventual expansion; try extruding into air with a high feedrate and compare the width to a slower extrusion. It's cool stuff.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 20:20
|
|
|
... basically agree with Sagebrush. There's linear motion systems out there, there's nice straight extrusions out there... personally I like linear rail fixed to t-slots on the extrusion. I don't really like the cylindrical rods because of limited cross section to prevent deflection.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 20:20
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:... basically agree with Sagebrush. There's linear motion systems out there, there's nice straight extrusions out there... personally I like linear rail fixed to t-slots on the extrusion. I don't really like the cylindrical rods because of limited cross section to prevent deflection. I think a lot of the bootstrapping spirit comes from the early days when these sort of things weren't widely available and/or affordable; it wasn't until relatively recently that you were able to source cheap Chinese linear rails. Like if you look at the original repraps, iirc the rods were salvaged from printers and used hardware store threaded rods for motion control.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 20:41
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:No, retraction is an actual retraction that yanks backwards a little bit. When you compress molten plastic inside the nozzle, the polymer chains actually compress like tiny little springs and then expand when the pressure is released. That causes the nozzle oozing that retraction is designed to prevent (by yanking the filament back and giving it a little bit of space to expand inside). Good to know, I stand corrected, in that case a little reverse action on the auger might give a little breathing room? Not sure, presumably some people have worked it out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 21:15
|
|
|
gently caress kapton tape! I couldn't print poo poo for ABS with it on my heated bed as nothing would stick. First print with blue tape, no lifting whatsoever. Could have also been my z height calibration too though...
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 22:44
|
|
|
Lol, using blue tape in TYOOL 2017. Just get a PEI sheet dude.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 23:02
|
|
|
PEI is amazing and I love it so much.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 23:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 10:15 |
|
|
What is this witch magic?! I guess I should look into it. I'd have to re calibrate my z height again, as it looks pretty thick. How tough is PEI? Surface prep at all?
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2017 23:17
|
|