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Woah, is that HO? I've never seen that building. What's going on here, other people making buildings?! Buildings!
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Aug 16, 2017 23:04
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Suzaku posted:If one lives in, say, North America, how would one go about getting in on one of these partworks? The little bit of research I've done says they're mostly a European thing. Is there a good way to import? For Hachette Partworks, you don't. Hachette Collections flat out refuses to deal with the US. Your best bet is Ebay, but freight costs will be insane. An entire set takes up one to two packing boxes and weighs in at 10 to 20 kgs. Deagostini publishes a subset of their partworks in the US as mentioned, but again at horribly inflated prices. US prices for Deagostini partworks are generally double of what one pays in Europe. http://www.model-space.com/us/
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Aug 16, 2017 23:21
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Hi, kids! Welcome to another fun-filled episode of Booby Fucks Up! I'm working on a Tamiya JS-2 heavy tank. It comes with vinyl tracks, and also straight and link. It has individual links for the top sections, with these neat plastic jigs for the perfect sag.  Now...can YOU spot the fuckup?  Also pictured: the cause of my fuckup
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Aug 17, 2017 00:30
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Did you make a whole pile of sag out of cog sections?
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Aug 17, 2017 00:50
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Arquinsiel posted:Did you make a whole pile of sag out of cog sections? Yep. I got my piles of loose links mixed up together and didn't realize it until I hit a point where a strip of plastic crosses the gap for the teeth, so the next semen wouldn't fit on the jig. I figure I can snip off any teeth that end up visible where there shouldn't be teeth. If I'm lucky I'll be able to attach the amputated teeth elsewhere. I'm just glad my big fuckup for this kit is something a sufficiently inebriated crew could do in real life. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Aug 17, 2017 |
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Aug 17, 2017 01:39
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Blue Footed Booby posted:... so the next semen wouldn't fit on the jig. Always a problem.
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Aug 17, 2017 01:58
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Always a problem. gently caress
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Aug 17, 2017 02:03
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Blue Footed Booby posted:the gap for the teeth, so the next semen wouldn't fit I don't know what thread you think you are posting in, but we talk about plastic models here.
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Aug 17, 2017 02:11
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Started work on a little corner building in which the corner will never be visible due do its placement, but god will see it, so I must do a good job! True N scale brick! It's fragile, the ply from the cardboard wants to flake off. Any idea how to protect it? Paint helps a little... 
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Aug 17, 2017 06:00
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Baronjutter posted:Started work on a little corner building in which the corner will never be visible due do its placement, but god will see it, so I must do a good job! Airbrush a bunch of matte medium on it? I use it as glue for my rigging, and it dries completely invisible but holds the rigging like a champ, so might work as a fixative in your usage.
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Aug 17, 2017 06:29
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I have some golden matte medium, it's in a big tub and it's thick as wet plaster. What would I need to do with it to thin it down to airbrushability?
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Aug 17, 2017 06:57
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You can probably use some Golden Airbrush medium to thin it down. On an unrelated note, have you ever considered taking some inspiration from the China thread for your buildings? Maybe making some sort of statue in honor of the unnamed poster?
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Aug 17, 2017 07:09
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Forgot to post up my finished Tiger II. Revell kit in 1/72. Onto a Stug from Dragon next, this time with way less weathering.     
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Aug 17, 2017 11:37
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Tentacle Party posted:Forgot to post up my finished Tiger II. Revell kit in 1/72. great lil tank, don't look 1/72 at all!
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Aug 17, 2017 11:55
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Tentacle Party posted:Forgot to post up my finished Tiger II. Revell kit in 1/72.
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Aug 17, 2017 13:18
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Tentacle Party posted:Forgot to post up my finished Tiger II. Revell kit in 1/72. Looks great. A bit over weathered for me, but that's purely a personal opinion/taste thing. Baronjutter posted:I have some golden matte medium, it's in a big tub and it's thick as wet plaster. What would I need to do with it to thin it down to airbrushability? Dunno, I use Vallejo matte medium and for my rigging I'm just applying it with a brush. For regular airbrush painting I'm just adding a few drops to whatever color of Model Aire paint I'm using. I'm sure you could thin it like the other poster suggested.
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Aug 17, 2017 16:15
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Tentacle Party posted:Forgot to post up my finished Tiger II. Revell kit in 1/72. Tiny tankers unite! Though I think the model internet has turned against rust on tracks (even storage tracks) as unrealistic
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Aug 17, 2017 16:20
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What's a good place to get decals? I have a 1/72nd me110 kit that is missing the decals and I'd like to replace them.
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Aug 17, 2017 18:14
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:The top modelers in the field these days are largely spanish. They really refined the style of worn, dirty, chipped, realistic finishes you see on most modern models. Which in turn was mostly built upon the shoulders of the japanese, who first experimented with these styles. It's a broad generalization, but it still mostly holds true. Of course people from all cultures have produced master-level modelers, but if you wanted to point to a large group of very talented individuals at the top of their game, it would be the spanish currently. I'm spanish and go to modeling contests. Competition in military subjects is fierce. Talking about that, some months ago I showed you some crappy phone camera photos, on the models I built for the latest competition. Here are the ones made by the Contest photographer, a dude with an actual camera and skill.   Bandai AT-ST at 1:48. Gold.   The Battletech Locust at 1:60. Silver   Bandai A-Wing at 1:72. Not entirely happy about the engine glow, nevertheless one random dude from a store gifted me a bigass magnifying glass because of it. I still can't compete with the tank guys, although I've been improving steadily just by staring at their models and asking a lot of questions. Here's my late winter Eastern Front T-80, halfway through the diorama I'm building for it. It only lacks mud and snow. Any tips?  Tentacle Party posted:Forgot to post up my finished Tiger II. Revell kit in 1/72. And then you go and post this absolute marvel. What a good work! Looks better than most of my 1:35s!
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Aug 17, 2017 20:06
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I built that kit last year and although I was pretty happy with the result at the time it just looks like cheap plastic toy compared to yours. Respect.
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Aug 17, 2017 22:13
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Sparq posted:I'm spanish and go to modeling contests. Competition in military subjects is fierce. Nice work! At those contests where they give the gold/silver awards, do they give you any feedback/critique on the judging sheets? I made a long road trip to one of those type of shows specifically because they advertised individual critiques on the form, and I didn't get anything from them at all, maxed the score-sheet and sort of a 'well done' written on the critique, but then some other guy who actually had dings on his critique won best ship... So I left with a gold medal and a fair amount of confusion. I think I've pretty much given up on shows in the US having any sort of consistency in judging and prize awarding, but I still like going and competing. I should probably make some stuff to enter more of them. 
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Aug 17, 2017 22:14
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What's the scale modeling contest world like? Is it like dog shows where it's full of just insane weirdo standards and tons of drama and politics?
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Aug 17, 2017 22:16
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Speaking of shows, next year (August 2018) my local IPMS chapter is hosting the Nationals in Phoenix Arizona. Yea, it will be hot as hell, but the model show will be in air conditioned comfort. Hopefully some of you guys from this thread can make it, and if so I'd like to meet you! I do plan to enter my sloop, and who knows, maybe with an entire year to go, I'll finish something else too (feel free to laugh at this part).
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Aug 17, 2017 22:22
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Baronjutter posted:What's the scale modeling contest world like? Is it like dog shows where it's full of just insane weirdo standards and tons of drama and politics? if its anything like the comments i see on various modelling facebook pages I imagine there is a lot of drama and politics.
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Aug 17, 2017 22:25
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Baronjutter posted:What's the scale modeling contest world like? Is it like dog shows where it's full of just insane weirdo standards and tons of drama and politics? Seems to vary a lot in my very small experience. Keep in mind that I'm coming from an odd perspective, a wooden ship modeler invading the domain of the plastic modelers at their shows. I've been to: 2 large shows in Phoenix (same one, different years) as an entrant, and once just to see it. 1 large show in Las Vegas 1 large show in San Diego 1 smaller show in San Diego I would have attended a few more, but either the rules specifically stated plastic only, or I was told when I inquired that my ship wasn't allowed to enter. The shows in Phoenix, and one of the shows in San Diego were fantastic. Friendly people, and I felt like my stuff was fairly judged and the awards given made sense to me based on the judging. The show in Las Vegas when I asked for a critique, since my ship didn't place, the head judge said there was nothing wrong with the model, it was fantastic, but they just decided to give the prizes to plastic ships. The smaller show in San Diego the people were nice and friendly, and the judging seemed to be good, it was only the prizes (since it was a silver/gold type competition, only 'best of' type awards) that confused me. I don't mind not winning, but I'm the type of person that likes to understand the 'why' of things, as getting critique is how I know what to improve, and I didn't understand why a model that had several 'dings' on the judging critique sheet was awarded the "best of". I'm fairly sure that some shows are very political with drama etc.. but I have only been involved at the entrant level, not involved in judging or anything, although some of the guys in the IPMS group I'm in have told me some stories about some of the shows that are.. not good. Standards wise for IPMS shows, they start by eliminating models by finding defects in the craftsmanship. They continue getting more and more picky about things (visible seams, paint spots visible, wheels or masts not aligned, etc.) until they finally get down to 3 models. Then they just try to figure out those three for 1st through 3rd. Best of categories are determined between all the 1st place models in that category (i.e. for ships, you end up with stuff like 'submarines', 'large scale surface', 'small scale surface', 'sailing', etc. In theory, the Best of Show is then picked from the winners of the best of categories. Some shows have other prizes, like special awards picked by a specific business that sponsors the award, or "People's Choice" which is chosen by all the spectators who choose to vote, etc.
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Aug 17, 2017 22:40
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The Locator posted:Nice work! There's no judging sheet. Just the medal and there's that, no critique. If you're lucky, you can talk with the judge of the category, although they often are busy, as they've got a limited time (about 4 hours) to study all the models. If you get a moment with them, they tend to be helpful as they are passionate about the hobby. It would be great if there was a sheet for criticisms like in the US! The feel of confusion and inconsistency is universal, though. They're amateur people like you or me with subjective opinions and disagreeing with them is par for the course. You've got great skills and most of the people in this thread has them too; I encourage all of you to go to competitions! It's fun and there is a lot to be learned there, and will help you to enjoy modeling even more if you aren't overly competitive. Go show your models, they are amazing! Baronjutter posted:What's the scale modeling contest world like? Is it like dog shows where it's full of just insane weirdo standards and tons of drama and politics? It's pretty nice. Sane, friendly people with normal lives and just a few weirdo ego junkies. It's a hobby with lots of older people and I'm usually the youngest(28)outside of Junior Categories, so the mood tends to be relaxed and mature. The drama and politics is at figures/warhams mostly, though.
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Aug 17, 2017 22:55
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The Locator posted:
Here is mostly about the general image barring big sloppy mistakes in the craftmanship. Spanish judges in general pursue dynamism, good integration with the base/environment, and the "mood" the model transfers to the viewer. They tend to prefer heavily weathered models, as if they have a story behind them, and also because it's the fad the magazines and top modelers have created.
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Aug 17, 2017 23:03
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Sparq posted:They tend to prefer heavily weathered models, as if they have a story behind them, and also because it's the fad the magazines and top modelers have created. There was actually a discussion about this in one of the recent IPMS meetings, about how modeling has pushed the weathering way over the top, specifically in aircraft. It's certainly interesting how what is the current fad moves through the hobby. Sparq posted:There's no judging sheet. Just the medal and there's that, no critique. If you're lucky, you can talk with the judge of the category, although they often are busy, as they've got a limited time (about 4 hours) to study all the models. If you get a moment with them, they tend to be helpful as they are passionate about the hobby. It would be great if there was a sheet for criticisms like in the US! I've only been to the single show where you get a critique sheet. The norm is just like what you describe. Way too many models and not enough time to give individual critiques. Sparq posted:The feel of confusion and inconsistency is universal, though. They're amateur people like you or me with subjective opinions and disagreeing with them is par for the course. I have always gone out of my way to be polite and absolutely not question their decisions regarding how a model was judged, but I am curious and like to understand better how the process works and how the decisions are made. I realize that the judging process itself can be completely subjective. What I see as a flaw, someone else doesn't, and something that I might have done to a model intentionally (like having the spars at an angle), a judge might see as a fault. I had a friend take his large wooden USS Constitution to a show, and he did not win anything, because he had a lot of basic flaws. The head judge calmly explained the flaws they found that took it out of the running, but my friend simply could not get past the fact that the 1st place ship was a little plastic sailing ship that didn't even look like it was finished, because it was an out of the box plastic kit that did not include things like 'rigging', but the construction was absolutely flawless, without any mistakes that could be seen from any angle even with flashlights and a magnifying glass. My friend left pissed off and swore never to enter another contest. He simply cannot accept that something that took him two years to build was beat by this silly little plastic ship that looked like a cheap toy, even though he was shown where by shining a light on the hull you could see where he had glued all his gunport hinges on. He could not understand that the 'difficulty' part of judging is only taken into account after basic workmanship stuff had eliminated him from consideration.
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Aug 17, 2017 23:19
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The Locator posted:There was actually a discussion about this in one of the recent IPMS meetings, about how modeling has pushed the weathering way over the top, specifically in aircraft. It's certainly interesting how what is the current fad moves through the hobby. There's a lot of manufacturers pushing their weathering products into magazines(mostly spanish companies) and it shows. The Locator posted:I have always gone out of my way to be polite and absolutely not question their decisions regarding how a model was judged, but I am curious and like to understand better how the process works and how the decisions are made. I realize that the judging process itself can be completely subjective. What I see as a flaw, someone else doesn't, and something that I might have done to a model intentionally (like having the spars at an angle), a judge might see as a fault. Yeah, I can see the logic. Mostly the disagreements come from decisions over equally well crafted models; sci fi judges for example and in my experience favour Star Wars models over the rest, as they are more familiar with them and they are their childhood movies. If your AT-ST is the only one of the show, congratulations! You've got a medal. The judges I've known are in general less nitpicky though. They'll forgive a glue drop if the model is interesting enough.
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Aug 17, 2017 23:32
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Tamiya decal success! Laid down the upper surface of the left wing and half the upper surface of the right tonight. I've got a method down pat that works like a charm. 1. Good, solid gloss coat or two 2. Hot water - I use a mug warmer to keep my water mug hot 3. Mr Mark Setter (sparingly) where the decal will be applied 4. Cotton swab roll to remove air bubbles 5. Mr Mark Softer over top The national insignia on the left wing looks painted on! So happy I finally found a method and medium that work.
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Aug 18, 2017 02:50
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I am trying to get my my old HO trains set running again after 20 years in storage. Most of my track is Bachman EZ track with the black roadbed, I believe the rails are "steel alloy", I purchased a power pack from eBay and my trains will not run on the steel alloy track. I have a few pieces of Atlas track with a brassy appearance and my trains run much better on the brass track so I am certain the EZ track is part of the problem. Is there a good way to clean the track preferably without purchasing a special tool? The next problem I have is the power pack. . . I bought an MRC 1300 for $10 on eBay as "working" and it only outputs a constant 9v to the rails, the train runs at the same speed with the throttle set for stop or full speed, the stop function doesn't work. I was going to attempt to open the power pack to see if there is anything serviceable inside, but it uses security screws which would require either destructive disassembly or $7 on AliExpress. Does this sound like a type of issue that might be repairable? If I do go for a new power pack, are there any brands to avoid in the dirt cheap range?
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Aug 18, 2017 14:38
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Is there a fancy way to simulate fabric when building a car interior? I want dat realistic texture
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Aug 19, 2017 23:01
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Crotch Fruit posted:I am trying to get my my old HO trains set running again after 20 years in storage. Most of my track is Bachman EZ track with the black roadbed, I believe the rails are "steel alloy", I purchased a power pack from eBay and my trains will not run on the steel alloy track. I have a few pieces of Atlas track with a brassy appearance and my trains run much better on the brass track so I am certain the EZ track is part of the problem. Is there a good way to clean the track preferably without purchasing a special tool? They almost certainly have completely oxidised. You can get special abrasive blocks to clean and polish the tops of the rails. If you are going to be running the choo choos for a while this is probably a useful investment. Otherwise any kind of mild abrasive that won't leave a residue would be fine. Very fine sand paper, a scotchbrite pad, even a pencil eraser would probably work. Crotch Fruit posted:The next problem I have is the power pack. . . I bought an MRC 1300 for $10 on eBay as "working" and it only outputs a constant 9v to the rails, the train runs at the same speed with the throttle set for stop or full speed, the stop function doesn't work. I was going to attempt to open the power pack to see if there is anything serviceable inside, but it uses security screws which would require either destructive disassembly or $7 on AliExpress. Does this sound like a type of issue that might be repairable? If I do go for a new power pack, are there any brands to avoid in the dirt cheap range? Depends how handy you are with electronics. No idea how complex these things are but I doubt they were using SMDs or anything, and I assume it would all be analogue. If you can get it open, some folks in the magic blue smoke forums could probably help. Alternatively just buy something different.
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Aug 20, 2017 07:18
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Nebakenezzer posted:Is there a fancy way to simulate fabric when building a car interior? I want dat realistic texture Flocking is the standard go to. It's usually used more for carpet rather than seat upholstery as it tends to be a bit fuzzy. Lots of different colors available. Example: http://www.modelcargarage.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=16 There are tons of tutorials available on how to use this stuff, too. I've used it a few times myself, but I don't think I have any decent pictures unfortunately.
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Aug 21, 2017 13:34
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Nebakenezzer posted:Is there a fancy way to simulate fabric when building a car interior? I want dat realistic texture Flocking as Boaz MacPhereson says. You can also use bandage tape depending on what kind of texture you're after. See here: http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Headliners/hliner.htm Flocking for floor mats: http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Floormats/fmats.htm Carpeting: http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Flocking/flocking.htm Or leather: http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Leather%20101/lthr.htm
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Aug 21, 2017 17:05
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The Locator posted:There was actually a discussion about this in one of the recent IPMS meetings, about how modeling has pushed the weathering way over the top, specifically in aircraft. It's certainly interesting how what is the current fad moves through the hobby. The aircraft weathering thing is funny, I can totally get it from a purely aesthetic point of view, but I run into a lot of people that are adamant that aircraft were all spotless and shiny and freshly painted. But a lot of the time, they're fuckin faded and lovely and covered in crap, especially places like the pacific theatre or somewhere. Not to mention they were often hand-painted with paints that the crews had to mix themselves, so you'd end up with squadrons of planes that were all slightly different colours 
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Aug 22, 2017 07:12
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How fine is this flocking stuff? I've been trying to figure out a source for N scale flowers, which would be like powder essentialy, for quite a while. The stuff they sell as model train flowers are usually big, they're like these 1-2mm chunks. I need something more salt sized.
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Aug 22, 2017 08:35
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The finest stuff you'll probably find easily is Woodland Scenics Fine Turf. Particle size is not uniform though, so you might have to sift it to get out the largest particles. Any smaller than that and you probably could go with sand (again, sifted to get out the big stuff). If you want that ultra-fine flock they use to give objects a velvety feel, that's not really something sold in the modeling scene, and is more a commercial product. There aren't any overly amazing shops in the lower mainland for basing supplies and flocking material. If you're near Vancouver, Central Hobbies is a very well stocked rail shop that I prefer myself. If you want more selection, EuroRail Hobbies in Summerland has probably the best selection in BC of basing stuff. What scale are you working in on this model? Would the texture of the seats even be visible if factored at the correct scale? If the fabric scale would be especially minuscule, you could probably simulate it just by roughing up the surface of the seats with some sandpaper.
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Aug 22, 2017 09:19
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Baronjutter posted:How fine is this flocking stuff? I've been trying to figure out a source for N scale flowers, which would be like powder essentialy, for quite a while. The stuff they sell as model train flowers are usually big, they're like these 1-2mm chunks. I need something more salt sized. It's pretty fine. Keep in mind that it's used to replicate carpet at 1/24 scale. It's pretty soft and fuzzy, too, so I don't know how well it would work for replicating flowers. I think you might be better off with the Woodland Scenics stuff like mentioned above.
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Aug 22, 2017 15:02
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Mongolian Queef posted:Flocking as Boaz MacPhereson says. This is awesome. Thanks guys.
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Aug 22, 2017 18:39
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