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First half of the warrior squad is finally done; been dragging my feet on actually getting these guys finished for well over a month.  
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Aug 19, 2017 01:35
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That's loving rad.
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Aug 19, 2017 02:08
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Well holy poo poo.
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Aug 19, 2017 03:45
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so dang cool
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Aug 19, 2017 05:39
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Pink Skink    Red lighting on pink was not a great idea, it's barely noticable compared to the gold of the staff. Still not sure about Zandri Dust as the base trim but it does centre the pink with the gold of the staff head. richyp fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Aug 19, 2017 |
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Aug 19, 2017 16:18
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Chill la Chill posted:Yeah, what bm said, but if you're willing to work with them, I found I actually loved the couple of tip curl brushes I had because they are amazing for freehand. I don't know what it is, probably a different angle, but I love using them for designs that I can't easily put down with a normal brush. Actually there are a couple of my curled brushes that are awesome for edge highlights and the filigree on my custodian guard, I went a head and invested in a bunch of sable bristled rounds and am much happier. Thanks to everyone else for the tips
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Aug 19, 2017 17:39
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Let's say that, hypothetically, I have a brush that was used for brush-on varnish and it didn't all wash out properly which means the brush is now stiff as a board. Is there any way to get it out of the brush or is it hosed?
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Aug 19, 2017 17:45
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Immanentized posted:I'm having a weird issue with my brushes, mostly with the tips hooking. You could be pushing the tips into crevices which will cause the tips to curl, make sure you are always pulling away and not pushing.
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Aug 19, 2017 17:49
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Cyberpope v2 posted:You could be pushing the tips into crevices which will cause the tips to curl, make sure you are always pulling away and not pushing. Yeah I've been doing the pull technique on the ones I have problems with, prior to the damaged tips I used a set of dedicated square tips to do filler and basecoat work. I'm moving into an actual house in the next month, and I'm hoping to be able to use my airbrush for the majority of my colors, and rely on brushes for the clean-up and detail work.
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Aug 19, 2017 18:18
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Is that the kind of mask I need for airbrushing? https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0...pf_rd_i=desktop
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Aug 19, 2017 19:25
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Yes, that one is great. I used it a lot professionally and it's quite comfortable even over longer periods.
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Aug 19, 2017 20:24
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Ayn Marx posted:Is that the kind of mask I need for airbrushing? Yes, something like that. With something like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge...ds=p100+filters Not sure whjat the equivalent rating would be in EU, but basically protection from organic vapors is the thing. Plenty of people use the next step down, P95, if they're only ever running acrylics and they are a bit cheaper.
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Aug 19, 2017 20:27
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I use the pink ones because they look nicer.
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Aug 19, 2017 20:30
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Chill la Chill posted:I use the pink ones because they look nicer. That's as good a reason as any. I use the pink ones too, albeit not for that reason.
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Aug 19, 2017 21:30
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Does anyone have any recommendations for Matte spray varnish available in the UK? I used to use Army Painter Anti-shine, but their cans have totally gone to poo poo lately, and GW is too shiny for my taste.
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Aug 19, 2017 21:56
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So I recently got back into painting after nearly two decades. I practiced on some skeletons and bones spear dudes to get a feel for the way paint works and poo poo, then started painting characters. I thought I'd share my progress here, because why not? I'm not half as talented as most of you, but I'm happy with my progress. Any tips or advice are appreciated.  First guy I painted. I learned more about how edge highlighting worked, but I wasn't brave enough for washes yet. Started with the Vallejo game color box because it looked like plenty of paint and it was on Amazon Prime. Paints were kind of gloppy though, so I got to learn a lot about thinning my paints.    Second one. Tried both washes and second coats. Pretty happy about it. Not real good at edge highlights yet though. The shoulder leather, pants and sash paints were all from P3, and behaved much better than the Vallejo paints did. I'll pick up more colors over the course of the next few, and they're all P3.   Third character. Felt better about my detail work. Base was really boring (the same stone sort of texture of the first two) so I slapped some moss on it.    Next up. Tried out relying more on washes for shadow and texture on the armor (rather than highlight layers). Tried my hand at highlight fabric on a larger scale for the first time, on the cloak. Not terrible for a first attempt, just layered up a couple of times. Everything that could go wrong on this did go wrong. The god drat base broke along one of those "boards", the leg broke at the ankle, the handcrossbow broke off at the fist. I skimped on detail work (buckles, etc.) at the end because I was kind of loving done with dealing with it.   The previous models were all from HeroForge, you can see the texture of the 3d print layers. This is from WizKids' injection molded pre-primed line, Nolzhur's something or other. I wanted to make A) a dwarf wizard and B) something with lots of fabric to practice on. Tried putting all of the details together; washes, layers, highlights. Also, integral base that was too small to be happy about, so I got to base something for the first time. Just some flock, nothing fancy. Pretty happy, overall. Lots of nooks and crannies that were a loving nightmare to get paint into though.    Most recent, this morning in fact. Pretty happy with it, other than the face. My loving cat jumped on the back of my chair right as the brush touched down for the highlights. So instead of a sort of olive skinned dark haired elf, he's just loving pale. Primed black, so I wasn't sure how to handle the (largely textureless) dark hair. Settled for a couple of layers of brown wash to create some differentiation from black Krylon. Worked okay, overall. Went with freehanding on the sort of arcane symbols poo poo on the blade, the pale skin and dark hair made me think that maybe he's less heroic and more villainous. So that's what I've spent the last few months doing. I'm glad I got back into this hobby; it's a ton of fun and also gave me an excuse to learn how to use my girlfriend's DSLR to take photos of the miniatures. Between characters I practice with various low detail, low time investment models, to learn how different tools and techniques produce different results. I'm super grateful for the inspiration (and envy) this thread has provided. Thanks for looking, and any advice!
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Aug 19, 2017 22:39
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 I made a better light box
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Aug 20, 2017 00:41
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Phi230 posted:I made a better light box That's a nice hair. Dog?
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Aug 20, 2017 08:11
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Signal posted:That's a nice hair. Dog? Cat actually
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Aug 20, 2017 13:46
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I'm trying to remove one super glued leg from a mini, and heard I could stick it in a freezer for an hour and just snap the part off. The problem is that all the other parts are glued really well so I'd rather not do anything that would damage them. If I just snap the leg off then let the mini warm to room temperature would the other joins be fine, or does just letting them get that cold permanently damage the bond?PantsOptional posted:Let's say that, hypothetically, I have a brush that was used for brush-on varnish and it didn't all wash out properly which means the brush is now stiff as a board. Is there any way to get it out of the brush or is it hosed? I've done a similar thing. Just hold it under water and work it with your fingers until it's flexible enough to use brush soap on. Then do so. That should restore it to a point where it's good enough for brush on varnishing again. Hope it wasn't a nice brush, though. The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Aug 20, 2017 |
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Aug 20, 2017 22:53
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Does anyone have any tips on removing models from Games Workshop plastic sprues? I'm using a sharp knife but I feel like I'm having to use more force than i'd like to get them out. Is there a better tool? Also what about the line from the mold that goes around the model. What do most people do to get rid of that? Thanks.
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Aug 21, 2017 00:41
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Get this or anything roughly similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMIBEDG For mold lines, just scrape with the back of your knife perpendicular to the surface of the plastic.
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Aug 21, 2017 00:43
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I got a similar cutter at Michaels in the bead section for like .99c
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Aug 21, 2017 00:47
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Rhaegar posted:Does anyone have any tips on removing models from Games Workshop plastic sprues? I'm using a sharp knife but I feel like I'm having to use more force than i'd like to get them out. Is there a better tool? Also what about the line from the mold that goes around the model. What do most people do to get rid of that? Thanks. 5 bucks from Home Depot. And the Citadel Mould Line Remover is pricey, but it's very worth it. I can't explain how easy and smooth it is unless you use one. The rigidity of the tool makes it a lot easier than the thin knife snapping along the plastic causing ridges. With the money you save on the clippers, $20 for both tools is worth it.
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Aug 21, 2017 01:23
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:And the Citadel Mould Line Remover is pricey, but it's very worth it. I can't explain how easy and smooth it is unless you use one. The rigidity of the tool makes it a lot easier than the thin knife snapping along the plastic causing ridges. I've literally never had this issue with a hobby knife. 
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Aug 21, 2017 01:28
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I used to use X-acto knives, but I was gifted a line remover for helping a friend build his redemptors and I'll never look back. It's like spreading butter on my hams. 
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Aug 21, 2017 01:40
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Thanks everyone. And here I was thinking I was asking a dumb question.
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Aug 21, 2017 02:53
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I bought the line remover because of the good things I've heard but it's not good for lines around tiny stuff which tons of these model pieces are and it's not worth the effort to switch back and forth to my xacto knife over and over again. Do you guys who are recommending it leave lines in inside corners or use both tools still or just play with models that don't have parts too small for the tool or am I just not getting it?
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Aug 21, 2017 06:09
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 Managed to grab the plastic Chaos Lord cheap yesterday so I head swapped him with a spare Blood Warrior Helmet to make a Lord of Chaos marked with Khorne. Also chopped up his square base and sprue to add around his raised base to make it look crumbling.
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Aug 21, 2017 10:54
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That is a sick as gently caress blood bro. Nicely done. I love that mini - I hope you can find a cool use for his awesome horny head 
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Aug 21, 2017 11:14
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richyp posted:
What's your primary blending technique? I love your style.
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Aug 21, 2017 11:55
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Just finished painting The Crimson Terror. A lovely sculpt I ordered from Hydracast.  Fits right in leading a pack of raveners.
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Aug 21, 2017 12:13
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EDIT: ^^^^ That blue is really nice and smooth.ineptmule posted:That is a sick as gently caress blood bro. Nicely done. I love that mini - I hope you can find a cool use for his awesome horny head bonds0097 posted:What's your primary blending technique? I love your style. Cheers. Someone asked me that a couple years ago and it was a really tricky question to answer as I'm not too sure I'm aware of what I'm doing when I paint as I just kind of "wing it" yet they do come out looking similar in style each time. There are far better painters in here than me that can probably give advice on 100 different ways of doing things, but if i had to label the way I do it, i'd say deliberately sloppy. e.g. I never really plan how to attack a model or where to start when painting one, I just kind of pick a colour and roll with it. In the case of the Khorne dude, it's fairly straightforward as Khorne is red and brass. So when blending (see i'm getting to the point  ) I'll slap down a couple layers of red (Mephiston in this case) wash with an appropriate shade all over (Agrax on red, Drakenhof on pretty much everything not red or white) hairdryer it.Then I'll just draw lots of lines on various edges in the base colour, then a lighter one mixed in with a medium (usually a couple passes to blend it a bit better, but still kind of rough) then a few select points in a lighter colour (troll slayer orange in this case). I usually use a 0 or 1 brush so the highlight lines are quite chunky compared to if I did them neatly with a 000 or smaller. In close ups they have a kind of oil painted 2d look which always looks funny. Another thing that might have an effect is that I almost never change water unless I'm using metals and I do that at the end usually. So everything will have a kind of tint of the base colour added to the paint when thinned. I'll try and find some various non-cropped and resized close ups of different things I've done and you'll see the pattern. EDIT 2: Here's a close up of the red on the guy above.  1) is the darkened Mephiston red (after washed with Agrax) 2) is a mix of Mephiston and Medium about 1:4 ratio 3) is a few more layers of 2 4) is a mix of Troll Slayer Orange and mediun 5) is a few more concentrated dot of 4. On his hand the darkest recesses are 1 and tips of knuckles are 5. richyp fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Aug 21, 2017 |
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Aug 21, 2017 12:36
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Arson Fire posted:Just finished painting The Crimson Terror. A lovely sculpt I ordered from Hydracast. I wish more 'Nids had the snake/slug tail thing going. Nice job.
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Aug 21, 2017 13:17
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Going through the old thread looking for pictures was great as I'd lost my old blog that had some of my early stuff on it. I wish I knew where half these models ended up, I know they're boxed up somewhere. Found these pictures:  My First paintjob: too lazy to prime and the plastic's blue anyway right? Also enamels. Space Crusade 1990?  Waaggh My first love (2008?) If I have a style I guess it started here.  More green  Green... What is the maximum number of highlights? who cares, you used black primer remember. The switch to Grey Primer begins..  Green, seriously?  Dawn of Red, I never did fix the bone colour on those shoulder pads   Grey Eldar (still my favourite paintjob wish I knew what happened to him  ) Plastic looking Necrons Scary that I turn 40 in a few weeks and that first dude was from 27 years ago. At least there's like a 15-20yr gap where I decided that I didn't like painting because my blue space crusade guy looked nothing like the ones on the box.
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Aug 21, 2017 13:35
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Cool, thanks for the breakdown! Always happy to see your stuff on the forums, the 'oil painting' aesthetic is really cool, makes everything seem a little dream-like and surreal. As befits the setting.
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Aug 21, 2017 14:13
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richyp posted:
I remember these guys. You and your painting guides were a great help for me when I went green.
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Aug 21, 2017 14:42
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What is a good vallejo highlight for charcoal (vma dunkelgrau specifically)
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Aug 21, 2017 15:10
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General Olloth posted:I bought the line remover because of the good things I've heard but it's not good for lines around tiny stuff which tons of these model pieces are and it's not worth the effort to switch back and forth to my xacto knife over and over again. I try not to worry too much about getting every bit of the mould lines. I clean after they are modeled because I'd rather not spend another 20+ minutes when it already takes me way too long to paint at a sub-par level anyways  Sometimes I forget to do it completely.For instance:  These two EC cultists took me around 2 hours to get them both to this point. Granted, some of that time was spent figuring out what colors to use, and I'm still not even done highlighting the flesh and stuff. Though I am proud of the one dudes shiny shoes and spats. The Emperor's Little Gentlemen   I wanted to go for a bit of a Clockwork Orange vibe to them.
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Aug 21, 2017 16:32
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richyp posted:
I'm still tossing up how to do my shoulder pads, and thought these look sweet. What would you have done differently?
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Aug 21, 2017 16:51
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