MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > MakerBots, RepRaps and UP!s: It's 3D printers!

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Queen_Combat: Jan 15, 2011

Don't clean it when hot, but otherwise it's magic.

# ? Aug 17, 2017 23:32

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# ? Jun 6, 2024 19:06

Luminaflare: Sep 23, 2010; No one man
should have all that
POWER BEYOND MEASURE

Glue stick for PETG and PC though. Not to make it stick but to make it stick less.

# ? Aug 17, 2017 23:56

mewse: May 2, 2006

I have kapton on my bed right now for PETG. loving filament ruined my PEI...

# ? Aug 18, 2017 00:04

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

mewse posted:

I have kapton on my bed right now for PETG. loving filament ruined my PEI...

Did you forget the glue or what?

# ? Aug 18, 2017 01:43

mewse: May 2, 2006

tuyop posted:

Did you forget the glue or what?

Yes but in my defense I didn't know about it

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:06

Hobnob: Feb 23, 2006; Ursa Adorandum

Any recommendations for a buildtak bed with PETG? I would like to try some with my Monoprice Mini Delta.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:21

EVIL Gibson: Mar 23, 2001; Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!; Switchblade Switcharoo

Just making sure before I install this relay for the heat bed and don't come back to a melted house because of a short.

Have a ramps board and the heat bed power used to be drawn from d8 on the board (Bottom posts)

The silk trace on the relay seem to make it like a no brainer but I've seen diagrams hooking this up in weird ways like not using all the terminals and one where ground is also being connected.

best way to hook this up besides the obvious?

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:30

Jestery: Aug 2, 2016; Not a Dickman, just a shape

Hey guys, I'm having a blast with my Cr-10.

Just looking for a bit of advice, I've been printing all weekend and I tried a print last night and morning.

I've had issues will extrusion on my last 3 prints. I had a look at my idler and the drive gear( ?) Seems to be a little gummed up with chewed filament. Is this a common thing or just something I need to look out for on specific filaments?

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:33

SlayVus: Jul 10, 2009; Grimey Drawer

So because the Prusa i3 MK2 comes with a lite v6 hotend, im only able to print ABS at 230c safely right? Because their information on E3D site suggests that 240C is the maximum temperature it will go because of the PTFE liner.

My first major print from my Prusa. Printed out a wearable Rick Sanchez mask for a friend for his cosplay.

SlayVus fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Aug 18, 2017

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:36

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

SlayVus posted:

So because the Prusa i3 MK2 comes with a lite v6 hotend, im only able to print ABS at 230c safely right? Because their information on E3D site suggests that 240C is the maximum temperature it will go because of the PTFE longer.

The hotend is the V6 all-metal.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:43

EVIL Gibson: Mar 23, 2001; Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!; Switchblade Switcharoo

Jestery posted:

Hey guys, I'm having a blast with my Cr-10.

Just looking for a bit of advice, I've been printing all weekend and I tried a print last night and morning.

I've had issues will extrusion on my last 3 prints. I had a look at my idler and the drive gear( ?) Seems to be a little gummed up with chewed filament. Is this a common thing or just something I need to look out for on specific filaments?

Back off the tension. The things gripping and moving the filament along should not be biting hard but just light enough to get a good grip. The gears make a bit of junk because of small imperfections in the filament popping off but it should not be creating it all the time in any significant amount.

Looked at the cr-10 and how it does it to try to get idea of what you need to do. it looks like you adjust the angle of approach of the filament to adjust the tension . Unscrew that one lever so it not taking such a sharp turn.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:46

Jestery: Aug 2, 2016; Not a Dickman, just a shape

Champion, you have eased my mind. I guess I'll need to design a guide from my spool holder, or a better spool holder.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:48

SlayVus: Jul 10, 2009; Grimey Drawer

BMan posted:

The hotend is the V6 all-metal.

I specifically remember a white colored tube sticking out of my Prusa when I assembled it last month.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 02:58

EVIL Gibson: Mar 23, 2001; Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!; Switchblade Switcharoo

SlayVus posted:

I specifically remember a white colored tube sticking out of my Prusa when I assembled it last month.

They both use PTFE for smooth transition of the filament to the hot end but the lite has the liner just about snug against the nozzle while the normal PTFE drops the filament super far away from the hotend.

You use an all metal connection to get the heatsink and hotend together on the normal e3d.

Edit: the light blue, if it was not fully understood, represents the PTFE.

EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Aug 18, 2017

# ? Aug 18, 2017 03:09

rawrr: Jul 28, 2007

So I was checking taobao for 3d printer parts, and noticed that this is now a thing:

It's a force sensing resistor that press fits onto the nozzle, so that the nozzle itself can be used as an auto leveling probe.

Seems like a really well thought out, elegant solution.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 05:29

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

rawrr posted:

So I was checking taobao for 3d printer parts, and noticed that this is now a thing:

It's a force sensing resistor that press fits onto the nozzle, so that the nozzle itself can be used as an auto leveling probe.

Seems like a really well thought out, elegant solution.

For some reason, adjusting temperatures changes my z offset...

# ? Aug 18, 2017 05:40

Luminaflare: Sep 23, 2010; No one man
should have all that
POWER BEYOND MEASURE

tuyop posted:

For some reason, adjusting temperatures changes my z offset...

Thermal expansion.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 07:47

mewse: May 2, 2006

tuyop posted:

For some reason, adjusting temperatures changes my z offset...

Inductive probes change their measurements if they are heated. I had weird behavior until I allowed bed and hot end to heat up before doing my G29 auto bed level. Took the solution from the start gcode provided in slic3r prusa edition:

code:

M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 ; home all
G29 ; auto bed leveling

# ? Aug 18, 2017 11:59

Kea: Oct 5, 2007

mewse posted:

Inductive probes change their measurements if they are heated. I had weird behavior until I allowed bed and hot end to heat up before doing my G29 auto bed level. Took the solution from the start gcode provided in slic3r prusa edition:
code:
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G28 ; home all
G29 ; auto bed leveling

Going to have to look into auto bed levelling because I imagine doing it by hand every time gets real old real fast.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 12:56

Some Pinko Commie: Jun 9, 2009; Can't post for 3 days!

SlayVus posted:

I specifically remember a white colored tube sticking out of my Prusa when I assembled it last month.

The E3D has PTFE at the entrance to the heatsink, but it does not go down to the zone that actually melts the filament.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 12:58

eddiewalker: Apr 28, 2004; Arrrr ye landlubber

Kea posted:

Going to have to look into auto bed levelling because I imagine doing it by hand every time gets real old real fast.

It's really not that bad if you keep your printer on a solid surface and don't move it. I just eyeball minor adjustments as my printer lays down skirt loops before a print now. I haven't had to do a fully-involved leveling in months.

Remember that auto "leveling" doesn't actually move the bed; it just compensates in software. You've still got to get the bed ballparked in.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 13:07

Some Pinko Commie: Jun 9, 2009; Can't post for 3 days!

Kea posted:

Going to have to look into auto bed levelling because I imagine doing it by hand every time gets real old real fast.

I haven't had to level the bed on my Monoprice printer since April.

Leveling it that first time was a bitch and a half, but once I leveled it and put loc-nuts on the adjusting screws it's been pretty much a "wipe bed clean, print next object" system.

biracial bear for uncut posted:

An update image of my Monoprice i3 and the modifications to it.

Edit:

I really need to vacuum up the random bits scattered everywhere.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 13:13

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

Luminaflare posted:

Thermal expansion.

No no, I was making fun of the resistor nozzle sensor thing above.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 14:53

Kea: Oct 5, 2007

eddiewalker posted:

It's really not that bad if you keep your printer on a solid surface and don't move it. I just eyeball minor adjustments as my printer lays down skirt loops before a print now. I haven't had to do a fully-involved leveling in months.

Remember that auto "leveling" doesn't actually move the bed; it just compensates in software. You've still got to get the bed ballparked in.

Sounds like it might have been exaggerated then, if it annoys me I will consider sorting it out, if not I wont bother.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 15:20

AlexDeGruven: Jun 29, 2007; Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box

biracial bear for uncut posted:

The E3D has PTFE at the entrance to the heatsink, but it does not go down to the zone that actually melts the filament.

My bowden v6 has ptfe all the way down through the heatsink and heat break to butt up against the nozzle entrance.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 15:25

Some Pinko Commie: Jun 9, 2009; Can't post for 3 days!

AlexDeGruven posted:

My bowden v6 has ptfe all the way down through the heatsink and heat break to butt up against the nozzle entrance.

Then file an RMA with pictures with Prusa Printers and get them to send you the right one, because you paid for the all-metal v6.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 15:30

Jestery: Aug 2, 2016; Not a Dickman, just a shape

After a night of tinkering I have made two 2cm calibration cubes. It confused me (as a newbie) how much Different filaments ,even though both PLA, had such different printing characteristics.

This transparent PLA had to be printed much slower and hotter than the opaque white that came with the printer.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 15:53

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

White filament especially takes some odd settings. Any time you change filament, run a quick and dirty test, like those cubes, until you learn your filaments. I do it every time I change out a spool, even if it's the same material/diameter/manufacturer. There is batch-to-batch variation.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 19:00

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

Yeah, that's my workflow as well. I find no consistency in problem filaments among colours though. I'll get batches of finicky reds, whites, blacks, whatever. It's concerning from an air quality point of view.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 20:28

Sagebrush: Feb 26, 2012; ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

I find that light-colored opaque filaments print worse -- especially white. I assume it's from the titanium dioxide or whatever other filler they have to use. The "natural" color usually prints the best.

# ? Aug 18, 2017 20:33

Kea: Oct 5, 2007

Hit a snag building the anycubic kossel, couldn't work out what screws I was supposed to use to attach the uprights then realized I had missed a step somewhere. Woops!

edit: I was really impressed by how it was packaged, I was expecting a few bags of mixed parts thrown in a box. Instead all the screws and fixings etc were in labelled baggies, everything more or less is within its own little bag and its just generally well thought out. Instructions are pretty good english too.

Kea fucked around with this message at 00:45 on Aug 19, 2017

# ? Aug 18, 2017 21:51

SlayVus: Jul 10, 2009; Grimey Drawer

So I've tried printing an object twice now and when it gets to this specific layer on this model, it does something fucky. Should I just reslice the file? Left print was printed at 100% speed and right was at 126% speed.

# ? Aug 19, 2017 07:38

peepsalot: Apr 24, 2007; ��PEEP THIS...
��BITCH!

Did the layers shift right around where a large overhang starts? What kind of filament is it? Do you see any discolored plastic boogers on the layers before the shift? I'm guessing some glob built up from some kind of issue like overhang curling up, and the nozzle bumped into to it hard enough to skip some steps. If that's what happened then going slower and more print cooling fan (if PLA) should help.

# ? Aug 19, 2017 08:22

Luminaflare: Sep 23, 2010; No one man
should have all that
POWER BEYOND MEASURE

tuyop posted:

No no, I was making fun of the resistor nozzle sensor thing above.

Oh, duh.

# ? Aug 19, 2017 09:34

Rubiks Pubes: Dec 5, 2003; I wanted to be a neo deconstructivist, but Mom wouldn't let me.

peepsalot posted:

Did the layers shift right around where a large overhang starts? What kind of filament is it? Do you see any discolored plastic boogers on the layers before the shift? I'm guessing some glob built up from some kind of issue like overhang curling up, and the nozzle bumped into to it hard enough to skip some steps. If that's what happened then going slower and more print cooling fan (if PLA) should help.

Interested to see the resolution on this as this is a similar problem to what I had with my last attempt at printing.

# ? Aug 19, 2017 15:18

tuyop: Sep 15, 2006; Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted; Fun Shoe

SlayVus posted:

So I've tried printing an object twice now and when it gets to this specific layer on this model, it does something fucky. Should I just reslice the file? Left print was printed at 100% speed and right was at 126% speed.

Turn the speed down like 25% in your slicer and give it another go. The fact that increasing speed also increased the shift makes me think that you're kind of close to the speed limit of your printer for this kind of print.

# ? Aug 19, 2017 16:28

SlayVus: Jul 10, 2009; Grimey Drawer

I think this new filament is just giving me way too many problems. The filament is hatchbox pla. Supports don't break away easily. I get what I assume are over extrusion artifacts at 190c when using 100% flow rate for 0.2mm layers. The filament has physical bends in it when it comes off the spool, like it got bent before it even went on. I haven't had any problems with the coil itself, but it looks bad nothing like how Prusa does it. Been trying to find my caliper to measure the thickness, but it's missing...

On those two prints my fastest speed was bridges at 60mm/s, support material is printing at 40mm/s and inner walls, everything else is 30mm/s. I got it to print last night by reslicing it upside down and setting my printer print speed to 75%. So my fastest print speed was 45mm/s for bridges, etc etc. The support still stuck to the print with 0.2 vertical separation and 0.4 XY separation.

SlayVus fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Aug 19, 2017

# ? Aug 19, 2017 17:11

Rexxed: May 1, 2010; Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

SlayVus posted:

I think this new filament is just giving me way too many problems. The filament is hatchbox pla. Supports don't break away easily. I get what I assume are over extrusion artifacts at 190c when using 100% flow rate for 0.2mm layers. The filament has physical bends in it when it comes off the spool, like it got bent before it even went on. I haven't had any problems with the coil itself, but it looks bad nothing like how Prusa does it. Been trying to find my caliper to measure the thickness, but it's missing...

Hatchbox has pretty good reviews on amazon but I haven't been as happy with it as I have with the cheaper Tianse brand stuff (which is around $17.50 vs. 22.50 per kg). I run both of them at 205 or 210C and haven't had too many problems, but Hatchbox seems to leave more cleaning up of the print.

# ? Aug 19, 2017 17:16

SlayVus: Jul 10, 2009; Grimey Drawer

I know you get what you pay for, but are there actually any really good PLAs for around $20? Hatchbox was the same price as Prusa, but I assume Prusa costs way more to ship and takes longer to arrive than say from Amazon.

Prusa sells PLA Extrafill 750g rolls, is Extrafill the like a brand or is it a property of the filament?

SlayVus fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Aug 19, 2017

# ? Aug 19, 2017 17:25

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# ? Jun 6, 2024 19:06

Sagebrush: Feb 26, 2012; ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.

This is your periodic reminder that volcano extruders are fantastic and make super strong parts that look great tia

# ? Aug 19, 2017 17:30

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