|
Doing the rack in my girlfriend's Civic. Barely fit in my car.
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 19:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 11:28 |
|
|
Your girlfriend has a massive rack.
|
|
#
?
Aug 19, 2017 21:24
|
|
|
She's obviously had it redone.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 01:58
|
|
|
He's too busy playing with her rack to keep posting here.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 03:39
|
|
|
Getting the rack in and out of the body has been a pain non-innuendo: the rack sits mid way up the block, mounts to the firewall, and comes out the fenderwell. I just need to put it back in the car, bolt the tie rod ends back down, and connect the steering shaft. It's just way too hot out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 03:51
|
|
|
Changed the rear wheel hubs yesterday. In the back of my mind I knew that I'd need a rewind tool when it came to putting back the brakes, but was absent minded when and bought a normal pressing tool... so had to drive 1½ hours to get one.. But it all worked out great. The car is quieter and seems to return better MPG now. I was going to change the top strut mount bearings at the front as well, but hit a snag. Not only did I not really have the right socket (so had to file off to falt sides on a 19mm socket), but the motherfucker sits hard as gently caress. So time ran out. Not something I have to get done asap, but I've heard the symptoms a few times. My whole loving body is aching from this.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 07:45
|
|
|
 I think the Ionry has officially outlived most other Ionrys. Onward to 200k! Needs a MAF and secondary O2 sensor to get rid of the CEL, but at least the MAF is shockingly cheap. I'll probably fix those after I pay rent. Mileage has only dropped 1-2 mpg since it started throwing a MAF code (about a week ago), power seems to be about the same. DogonCrook posted:The starter may be bad and sucking too much juice. That's the conclusion I came up with on my Altima. It was doing the same thing, but pulling the voltage way down when it acted up. Usually the starter worked fine, occasionally it would struggle to get going, occasionally it just clunked (and made the battery cables smoke if I held the key in "start" for too long). Slamming the key into start several times repeatedly always got it to eventually start. It did this with 2 different batteries. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Aug 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 08:34
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:They are thicker than stock, the caliper mount was machined out and you need to run pads that are 2mm thinner on each side. This sounds wildly inconvenient. Do you have to shave the pads or buy some from another application? On the rears do you think you'll even use enough of the brakes for the vented rotors to notice or matter?
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 13:06
|
|
|
Wally Joyner posted:Then my brother showed up. Later, he flaked out You and your brother are awesome.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 13:11
|
|
|
I changed all four (!) O2 sensors on my 2008 CVPI. If this doesn't stop the P0420/0430 codes, I'll burn out the cats with laquer thinner. If THAT doesn't work, gently caress it. The car will get 19.95 MPG for one tank, then at second fillup it will get 17. It will get that same 17 for two more fillups (3 total) and will ping a check engine light for cat efficiency the moment I do a fourth fill. Like, at the pump with the engine running. The moment the fuel gauge goes "up" for a fourth time triggers it. Clearing the code nets me 19.9 again until that first refill. Ford 
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 13:15
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:This sounds wildly inconvenient. Do you have to shave the pads or buy some from another application? On the rears do you think you'll even use enough of the brakes for the vented rotors to notice or matter? You can buy pads that come with less material by request. I know I will. The S2000 overheats the rears when tracked causing wheel bearing failure, insane front pad use, and even quicker rotor cracking. I have four trackdays a month on the calendar for the next six months.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 17:46
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:You can buy pads that come with less material by request. Never heard of this. Is this an S2000 specific thing? I'm not trying to be critical, your car is very cool and I like reading about what you do with it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 20:52
|
|
|
I'd bet it's a thing with low volume production of high performance brake pads.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 20:56
|
|
|
So on an intermittent non start i dont really know much about the internals of a starter and curious how they could fail like this so i started digging. It actually may be the solenoid. Modern cars fuse the circuit so its not an intermittent problem anymore it just fails the first time a short occurs in the solenoid. In an older car this wont happen there is no fuse. This is from a forum post from somebody that got fed up and started tracking the problem down after they had cured it to try and undertsand what the hell is actually going on. It seems like a pretty good explanation. "I was looking in a pretty good Popular Mechanics book titled "Complete Car Care Manual", and it explained that the stater on a typical car is energized in a two step process. In step one, the solenoid circuit is activated (by turning the key to "start"), which pulls in the solenoid. Pulling it in requires a lot of current, as something is being moved, so there's briefly a fairly large current draw on the "pull-in coil" through the solenoid circuit; in step two --- the key remains in "start" --step one completes, the solenoid is fully pulled in, solenoid contacts switch the full battery power to the motor through the heavy guage battery circuit, and the"pull-in coil" is de-energized so that as much current as possible is available to the battery circuit, and a second coil, called the "hold-in coil" is activated, which uses just enough current to hold the solenoid in, but not as much as was required to pull it in in step 1." The solenoid makes more sense than an intermittant high draw from the starter which i just cant figure out how thats possible. I would think it would cause a constant high draw from an internal failure. Im not saying its not possible or anything i have a pretty weak grasp of electrical poo poo so i might be missing something. Maybe physical damage to the windings allowing it to arc into the case if it sits just so? Seems kinda unlikely but again i may be missing something. E: i guess to find out wire a fuse into the circuit if it pops at some point theres a short in the solenoid. When its happening i would expect the wire to get pretty hot and you could tell that way too. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Aug 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 21:34
|
|
|
E:dbl post
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 21:35
|
|
|
The commutator can have dirty or worn spots that can cause high draw during a specific portion of the rotation. Hell, even my current starter in the bus will draw mega amps if it's "parked" in the wrong spot. A turn or two of the key to get it to rotate to a good spot is what it takes usually. Sluggish Sluggish FAST -bwoom- -starts engine-
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 21:39
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:The commutator can have dirty or worn spots that can cause high draw during a specific portion of the rotation. Hell, even my current starter in the bus will draw mega amps if it's "parked" in the wrong spot. A turn or two of the key to get it to rotate to a good spot is what it takes usually. Ok yeah i was skeptical this happened so that could be it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 21:40
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Never heard of this. Is this an S2000 specific thing? Sorry, wasn't trying to get tilted.  Here is a cool little thread about these rotors with FLIR. https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-racing-competition-11/oem-vs-urge-vented-rear-rotors-back-back-testing-thermal-images-1169660/
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 22:00
|
|
|
Motor evicted from garage, it crawled back into its shell.  All went well until I bent an accessory pulley. Oops. Might as well stop for the day and go back into air conditioning.
|
|
#
?
Aug 20, 2017 22:03
|
|
Boys who love boys
|
Forensic Engineering. I'm making a call that the pivot arm to move the throwout bearing has been welded in a new orientation, and the motive was to use a clutch set up for a different vehicle. One from the same family, but likely having a different bellhousing, which I'm guessing would have had the fingers set up differently. Maybe. Either way, the evidence is the welds are real suspect, and there was spatter on the bellhousing. The welds are specifically very 'goopy' like a homeowner with a caulking gun. Not what a factory part should look like. Next step... deciding if it cut it off and re-weld it in the vehicle, or if I pull the housing off. Leave it in - pro, I can accurately align it with the position of everything, and I don't have to pull a bunch of stuff back off. Con: it's a pain in the rear end with poo poo for access. Take it out - pro, it's a much better work environment. Con: I'll have to do math to get it close. (but I have a bunch of adjustment available in the linkage...) Looks like I'm going to phone a friend to help. edit; third idea, take some length out of some of the linkage. I have metal stock and I can bodge this together in a new and exciting way. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Aug 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 03:32
|
|
|
Fuk uuuuuuu bank 2 cat
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 17:46
|
|
|
That looks like a toasted sensor, not the cat?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 17:48
|
|
|
I thought so, just replaced all four though. I'll do another swap just to check
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 19:06
|
|
|
Looks more like bank 1 is the dead cat?
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
Not to clog up the WDYDTYRT thread, but is it? I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Here's more readings from the drive home just now:        So, it looks like Bank 2, post-cat sensor (2x2) "lags" behind 1x2, and isn't as sensitive. Or, is it the other way around, and 1x2 is "too" jumpy. What's it supposed to be like? I had a misfire for maybe 3 weeks, but replaced all the coils and the car didn't throw any codes for 2 months. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Aug 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 19:31
|
|
|
What do they look like while just cruising? Sensor 2 should be pretty steady at that point. If you stomp on it, then it's normal to see sensor 2 kinda match sensor 1 (with a little bit of lag).
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 20:12
|
|
|
Cruising looks like this one: without that dip at the beginning of the graph. Both of the sensor 2's are steady, though 1x2 jumps around a bit more in line with sensor 1. 2x2 doesn't move at all, p much.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 20:25
|
|
|
You can double check with an ir thermometer reading before and after the cat. If the cat is working it should be 100-150 hotter at the exit of the cat. Or at least in range of the other one. That misfire might have let raw fuel enter the cat. May not be bad though it could just have gunk on the sensor that isnt burning off and needs to be cleaned.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 20:29
|
|
|
Replaced a starter motor on my old rear end F-150. Problem was one of the drat bolts was seized up and I hulked out a bit too much on it and the bolt head popped off. There's 3 bolts total though, so the other two came off alright. Starter works fine with two bolts on, tried it 20 times over the course of a day. I'm contemplating just leaving it the way it is since it seems it work fine for now. It's such a tight goddamn space, I'm not sure I can use most conventional options to extract the broken one.
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 21:04
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 23:20
|
|
|
Oh poo poo, okay. So, with new sensors, as long as they're good, it looks like converter 1 is making GBS threads the bed. E: VVVV I just ran a can of seafoam (I bought a case like 2 years ago) through the tank, and after a highway run I sat and revved it up to 3.4k for a minute. It looks a bit better. Mmmmaybe I can revive the converter. If not, I already have some "spark plug anti foulers" coming in the mail. 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Aug 22, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 23:55
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Oh poo poo, okay. So, with new sensors, as long as they're good, it looks like converter 1 is making GBS threads the bed. Kind of looks that way. Swap the two rear O2s side to side and see if the issue stays with the converter, or follows the sensor.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 16:55
|
|
|
Got the radiator back in the Hijet. Sourcing a replacement radiator was approaching impossible but lucky for me there is an old guy that still repairs radiators in town. Kinda pricey at $345 but now my tiny van has a brand new copper core radiator complete with fancy new paintjob. Runs cool and most importantly doesn't piss out a stream of coolant as it cools off from being driven right onto the block. As soon as this dude closes up his shop though that's the end of actually repairing radiators.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 00:04
|
|
|
Pulled the clutch linkage to find that it had been broken and welded together once. I then fabricated two shorter pieces to replace them as a different way of undoing what the PO did.  I guess I should prime it real quick too.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 04:18
|
|
|
Made a big mess last night flushing coolant and changing the oil in my G unit. Spill free funnel was nice for this, but still lost a few drops here and there. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 15:08
|
|
|
KakerMix posted:Got the radiator back in the Hijet. Sourcing a replacement radiator was approaching impossible but lucky for me there is an old guy that still repairs radiators in town. Kinda pricey at $345 but now my tiny van has a brand new copper core radiator complete with fancy new paintjob. Runs cool and most importantly doesn't piss out a stream of coolant as it cools off from being driven right onto the block. As soon as this dude closes up his shop though that's the end of actually repairing radiators. Radiator repair shops are indeed rare these days, and when you can get a new radiator for most cars for half what you paid (or less) for a repair, it's easy to see why.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 15:21
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Made a big mess last night flushing coolant and changing the oil in my G unit. Spill free funnel was nice for this, but still lost a few drops here and there. What socket holder is that?
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 15:54
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Over the past couple of weeks I have accomplished two things: fixed a misfire in my 97 Ranger, and calibrated a depth point of my stupidity. Mostly the stupidity thing. My Ranger started stumbling, particularly under higher loads (merging onto highway, climbing hill, etc.) while I was on a 3-week trip away from home with my Fiance. After a few hours it lit up the Check Engine light, and my Fiance was able to sweet-talk my lovely OBDII bluetooth thing into talking to my phone (note to self: buy full version of Torque) and it identified the problem as misfire in cylinder 4. A run to the not-particularly-local partshop near my family's cottage and I had a new sparkplug to put in. I could *NOT* loving move the old one, but the neighbour had a selection of rust-attacking bolt-looseners so I sprayed it, waited, failed to move it again, but got it out the next morning. In the process I discovered I had bought a sparkplug-socket unnecessarily (my socket set has one) and I have misplaced my socket wrench - fortunately, my grandfather was a professional mechanic for a long time and the shed contained a quite good socket set. Got the plug out, saw the gooey oil near the gap, decided this was likely to fix the problem, and put it back together. The bolt-loosener burning off on the test start was a little alarming - no flames, just lots of smoke - but she seemed to be fixed. An hour later, driving away from the cottage, she starts stumbling again, just not as badly as before.  I had no time or inclination that week to get it done, so I waited until I got home. Dropped it off at my local professional on Monday morning, and yesterday I gave them $150 and learned that I had not, in fact, replaced the sparkplug for cylinder 4. I guess I mis-read my Haynes manual because the mechanic said the plug he pulled out was definitely old. At least he was polite about it. So, I paid $160 more than I needed to and spent several frustrating hours trying to get some movement on a part buried deep in the engine bay, but now the truck is running well, at least.  Next time, I'm gonna just replace all of the sparkplugs. That's probably better than having a mismatched set anyways.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 16:08
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:What socket holder is that? It's a blue point. I got it as a gift and initially didn't think much of it (never used one) and now I love it. The sockets twist and lock in so they won't fall out and unlock easily to remove. It's pretty nice for not making 100 runs back and forth to my toolbox. https://store.snapon.com/Lock-A-Socket-Trays-Combination-Drive-Sizes-Lock-A-Socket-Tray-8-3-4-W-x-20-L-Blue-Point-reg--P646063.aspx
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 16:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 11:28 |
|
|
Always just replace all the plugs. It's way easier.
|
|
#
?
Aug 23, 2017 16:12
|
|
