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kid sinister posted:1940s UK house? Was your place wired after/during the war with ring mains or before? The full survey is due next week, so I should know more - from what I can see it's definitely been rewired in the interim (let's say at a thumb to the air, the 80's) and then a rewire of the kitchen/shed/garage and fusebox again in the 00's. I've been looking into high power wifi units, and it seems Amplifi, Google Wifi, etc. all provide massively high powered wireless signals without the duplexing issues of extenders - two in the house and one in the shed would in theory provide 1500' sq. ft each, and would only need to actually broadcast around 650 sq. ft each to cover my whole property. Ultimately I'll have to see how costly running the network would be in addition to the wiring. kid sinister posted:Patches in plaster walls can be hard to get to match since plater walls aren't very flat like plasterboard is. H110Hawk posted:This is entirely on the skill and care of the contractor patching your walls. The good people we hired you can't even tell there were holes, the cheap people you can see exactly where they patched. You can even seen little cutouts where the expensive people patched partially into where the cheap people patched. If I didn't know better I would think the cheap people cut an awkwardly shaped hole. (Two different major patch jobs.) It cost around double to have the good people do their work, but it still wasn't that expensive. ($400 vs $800 or something.) Righto - I guess I'll have to get quotes either way. Based on the wifi revelation above, if I can 'get away' with one or two more double dockets in each room then it should be significantly less for both the electrical and plastering work, yes?
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Aug 22, 2017 14:31
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Southern Heel posted:The full survey is due next week, so I should know more - from what I can see it's definitely been rewired in the interim (let's say at a thumb to the air, the 80's) and then a rewire of the kitchen/shed/garage and fusebox again in the 00's. If you are able to run the wired Ethernet backhaul for your access points, a Ubiquiti setup with a PoE switch would be awesome (that's what I've been mapping out). The price and config work is not for the faint of heart, though.
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Aug 22, 2017 14:47
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Hubis posted:If you are able to run the wired Ethernet backhaul for your access points, a Ubiquiti setup with a PoE switch would be awesome (that's what I've been mapping out). The price and config work is not for the faint of heart, though. The Ubiquiti APs come with POE adapters, so you don't need a dedicated switch for it. The price point compared to google wifi and Amplifi is about the same or even less. If you're just using them as access points the config is really easy.
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Aug 22, 2017 21:04
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ElCondemn posted:The Ubiquiti APs come with POE adapters, so you don't need a dedicated switch for it. The price point compared to google wifi and Amplifi is about the same or even less. If you're just using them as access points the config is really easy. Agreed -- it's just hard for me to look at it and not want to go whole hog  But yeah, the baseline APs are like $90 each, which is totally reasonable if you already have a router you can use.
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Aug 22, 2017 23:06
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Is there any sort of orientation requirement on, say, an inaccessible ceiling outlet for a garage door opener? I'm assuming they're always oriented down for convenience, but in this case, it'd be easier to have it facing horizontally like a normal wall outlet. Just want to be sure there's not a rule that says you have to be able to jump up and yank the cord out without a ladder, or something.
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Aug 23, 2017 00:00
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Southern Heel posted:Righto - I guess I'll have to get quotes either way. Based on the wifi revelation above, if I can 'get away' with one or two more double dockets in each room then it should be significantly less for both the electrical and plastering work, yes? If you're having holes put in your walls specifically for wifi, do as other posters have said and stick to low voltage. Get POE powered wifis and just have a single run of cat6 pulled. As for outlets at normal height one every N feet and at least one on every wall is nice. The plastering work was surprisingly cheap compared to everything else, it's not like there is much materials cost. I would do it once, do it right, and put as many holes as are required. Cleaning up all the plaster dust crap that gets on EVERYTHING (I cannot emphasize this, it is everywhere) gets really loving old after the first time you do it. Make sure you wear a good respirator and have a hepa filter on your vacuum. Mop/sponge/wet rag what you can.
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Aug 23, 2017 01:16
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Bad Munki posted:Is there any sort of orientation requirement on, say, an inaccessible ceiling outlet for a garage door opener? I'm assuming they're always oriented down for convenience, but in this case, it'd be easier to have it facing horizontally like a normal wall outlet. Not to the best of my knowledge. That outlet is the disconnecting means for the motor nearby, not an emergency disconnect.
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Aug 23, 2017 01:23
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Okay, thought so, just wanted to be sure.
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Aug 23, 2017 01:24
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Bad Munki posted:Is there any sort of orientation requirement on, say, an inaccessible ceiling outlet for a garage door opener? I'm assuming they're always oriented down for convenience, but in this case, it'd be easier to have it facing horizontally like a normal wall outlet. There is no orientation requirement, period. That goes for wall outlets too.
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Aug 23, 2017 03:22
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Hubis posted:If you are able to run the wired Ethernet backhaul for your access points, a Ubiquiti setup with a PoE switch would be awesome (that's what I've been mapping out). The price and config work is not for the faint of heart, though. The hardest part of the setup is getting the controller installed.. which requires like basic Linux knowledge (or you can just buy their cloud key thing). I'd definitely recommend it, it's really hard to beat for the price point.
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Aug 23, 2017 23:52
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I'm in the middle of installing a subpanel on the inside of an exterior wall. Noticed there will be a 1/4" gap behind the subpanel with just wood/siding on the other side. Local inspector says nothing is required to fill the gap. I was figuring since it was an exterior wall (in Colorado on top of a mountain) I should use a vapor barrier at least and try to fill the void yes? Foam almost sounded like a good idea but maybe caulking would be better? I found some insulation online called Prodex that's only 1/4" thick and R-16 but they only sell huge rolls of it and we just need enough for behind the subpanel, oh well. Thanks!
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Aug 24, 2017 14:51
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There is (or should be, anyway) a vapor barrier on the other side of the siding. As I understand it, if you put a vapor barrier on both sides of something, then any moisture that does get in (and moisture will always get in to some extent) won't be able to get back out, which makes moisture damage worse. I don't see an issue with putting in insulation, so long as you don't gently caress with the subpanel. But honestly I'd just leave it, and accept that it's going to be a bit colder by the subpanel.
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Aug 24, 2017 16:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:There is (or should be, anyway) a vapor barrier on the other side of the siding. As I understand it, if you put a vapor barrier on both sides of something, then any moisture that does get in (and moisture will always get in to some extent) won't be able to get back out, which makes moisture damage worse. Edit: possible that my info is outdated, as this is an area that's changing a lot recently Slugworth fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 24, 2017 |
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Aug 24, 2017 17:26
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sadus posted:I'm in the middle of installing a subpanel on the inside of an exterior wall. Noticed there will be a 1/4" gap behind the subpanel with just wood/siding on the other side. Local inspector says nothing is required to fill the gap. I was figuring since it was an exterior wall (in Colorado on top of a mountain) I should use a vapor barrier at least and try to fill the void yes? Foam almost sounded like a good idea but maybe caulking would be better? I found some insulation online called Prodex that's only 1/4" thick and R-16 but they only sell huge rolls of it and we just need enough for behind the subpanel, oh well. Thanks! Toss a can of foam behind it and call it a day. While you have the can open go around and fill in random "fix it later" gaps you've found along the way.
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Aug 24, 2017 18:11
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Thanks! The existing insulation seems to have a waxy paper on it that says 'vapor barrier' but no plastic sheeting or anything. I'm sealing it up where I had to cut to run wire with tyvek tape for the heck of it. I don't want to derail the thread, but if anyone wants to nerd out on vapor barriers: https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers
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Aug 24, 2017 18:34
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Slugworth posted:There's a distinction to be made between vapor barriers, which go on the climate controlled side of insulation, and moisture barriers, which go on the outside of the building.  You'd think I'd remember that. Thanks for the correction.
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Aug 24, 2017 19:03
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This might not be the actual wiring this thread is aimed at, but it's still a DIY and it's still a wire. Putting in LED cabinet lights, I would love to find, oh, around 10' of this, but the manual and website just call it "connector cable" and google isn't being any help. Each of my lights comes with about a foot, but I want to run some farther down the line (unless you guys can think of a better solution. Here's what I'm after:  Microwave over the stove, outlet in cabinet over microwave. The ultimate goal would to be having the main powerswitch just be the switch on #2, as I assume the ones downstream of it will slave off the first light's power switch. It wouldn't be a huge problem to have #1 be the master power switch, but it's inconvenient to the kitchen. So the solutions are either slave #1 to the end of #4 back upstream (which will need like, 12' of cable and seems excessive) or to have a remote switch on that outlet and just run two power supplies off it, and mount the remote switch under the cabinet next to light #2. Ideas on either question? Thanks!
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Aug 24, 2017 20:54
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Huxley posted:This might not be the actual wiring this thread is aimed at, but it's still a DIY and it's still a wire. Putting in LED cabinet lights, I would love to find, oh, around 10' of this, but the manual and website just call it "connector cable" and google isn't being any help. That looks like something that's proprietary for passing 120V to each fixture. Have you even tested yet if the switch on each fixture controls a light further down the line?
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Aug 24, 2017 21:25
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kid sinister posted:That looks like something that's proprietary for passing 120V to each fixture. I haven't, they're out in the car. After work project. If they do pass-through, I guess that answers my question.
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Aug 24, 2017 21:31
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Huxley posted:This might not be the actual wiring this thread is aimed at, but it's still a DIY and it's still a wire. Putting in LED cabinet lights, I would love to find, oh, around 10' of this, but the manual and website just call it "connector cable" and google isn't being any help. i mean i'm not saying you should hack the cables apart and re-do them with a more sensible connector like oh say edison for the longer runs but you could i mean poo poo you could probably even get the polarity right so it would actually be safe if it were ever plugged directly into AC. presuming that's just passing 120 to the next light. SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Aug 26, 2017 |
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Aug 26, 2017 01:57
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I need help replacing a 4-way lightswitch. The new switch has the brass-coloured terminals. But the old lightswitch (still wired in, as seen in pictures below) does not... they're all the same colour.   What's the correct wiring setup, for this one? I'm assuming: Black Wire A > Terminal A Black Wire B > Terminal B Red Wire A > into Terminal E Red Wire B > into Terminal F Right, or not?
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Aug 26, 2017 20:23
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melon cat posted:I need help replacing a 4-way lightswitch. only one time have i ended up having to call an electrician for a light switch replacement with large discount because it took him 45 minutes to even work out what the gently caress was going on much less do the job
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Aug 26, 2017 22:49
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Friend has a big heater in his shop, it runs off of dual 60A 240V breakers. We're rewiring it for a number of reasons. So, question: do I have to run a separate ground for each of those two circuits, or will one shared ground suffice? If they share it, does it need to be overspecced? Like 4awg instead of 6? Also, in a more general sense, does the ground for something like this have to be the same size as the other wires? I just ask because I know that on, say, a service entrance, the ground wire will be a bit lighter, and I'm wondering if something similar applies elsewhere.
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Aug 26, 2017 23:10
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melon cat posted:I need help replacing a 4-way lightswitch. I would like to thank you for your amazingly labeled picture. Have you considered simply burning your house down?
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Aug 27, 2017 00:46
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SoundMonkey posted:only one time have i ended up having to call an electrician for a light switch replacement H110Hawk posted:I would like to thank you for your amazingly labeled picture. Have you considered simply burning your house down?  Welp. Time to the call to a local Electrician for this one, then. Maybe you guys can help me with this one. Different room, different switch that needs replacing:  I noticed that this one has one backstabbed wire + one on the side-terminal. First time I've seen this after doing several lightswitches in this house. I plan on replacing it with this Single Pole switch. Is this normal? Will I burn my poo poo down if I connect: Black Wire A > to Terminal 2 (because gently caress backstabbed wires, am I rite?) Black Wire B > to Terminal 1 Black Wire C > Backstab same as it is now I'm just confused because up until now I've always thought that 3 wires = use a 3-way switch, like this one. But here I am, sitting at home with a single-pole switch, staring at the fixture with a dumb look on my face. Especially since this is the only instance where the builder opted to use the side terminal instead of backstabbing. Can you tell that I'm a rookie with basic electrical poo poo? melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 02:29
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The backstab and terminal are connected internally, you could think of it like both wires being under the terminal screw. I'd recommend wire nutting B and C together with a tail out to the screw on the new switch. Those two wires are probably the hot coming into the box and going out to another.
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Aug 27, 2017 02:51
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Unless that switch is REAL dumb, black wire B and C should be connected through the switch (the screw terminal 1 and the backstab slot near it *should* be connected internally. Therefore, this is - a really idiotic and possible dangerous way of pigtailing conductors. The 'right' way would be ti wire-nut B and C together with a pigtail (short conductor) to terminal 1. It's been a while, though, so don't take my word for it. ^^ sup bb ^^
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Aug 27, 2017 02:52
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PopeCrunch posted:^^ sup bb ^^ haay
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Aug 27, 2017 02:53
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melon cat posted:What's the correct wiring setup, for this one? I'm assuming: Yeah that should be right. A 4 way just swaps the travelers - so if it doesn't work right swap either A and B OR E and F. 4 way switches really aren't difficult, assuming the 3 way circuit is wired correctly.
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Aug 27, 2017 03:03
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I suggest ripping out all your 4-way wiring and converting all your switches to relays that are home-run to a central switch bank instead.
Hubis fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 04:43
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Hubis posted:I suggest ripping out all your 4-way wiring and converting all your switches to relays that are home-run to a central switch bank instead. Pneumatically-activated relays, please!
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Aug 27, 2017 22:41
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Looking for recommendations on a 2 foot light to put in my drop-down ceiling in the basement. Any thoughts?
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Aug 29, 2017 02:08
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There are <$50 2'x2' LED troffers that do a great job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-2ft-White-LED-Panel-Light-Dimmable-Ceiling-40W-UL-Certificate-Pack-of-2-/26310714252 Options for the lights are Dimmable vs non-dimmable and desired light temp 2700K to 5000K.
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Aug 29, 2017 18:41
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Looking for recommendations on a 2 foot light to put in my drop-down ceiling in the basement. Any thoughts? HycoCam posted:There are <$50 2'x2' LED troffers that do a great job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-2ft-White-LED-Panel-Light-Dimmable-Ceiling-40W-UL-Certificate-Pack-of-2-/26310714252 If you can go see the model you're interested in hooked up at a Home Depot or Lowes, I'd recommend doing so. Look at the light and wave your hand in front of it -- is the motion blur smooth or do you see a few distinct outlines like with a strobe light? I have found that at least some of the "integrated LED" lamps have pretty low pulse rates and I find the flickering to become pretty disconcerting quickly
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Aug 29, 2017 19:57
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Hubis posted:If you can go see the model you're interested in hooked up at a Home Depot or Lowes, I'd recommend doing so. Look at the light and wave your hand in front of it -- is the motion blur smooth or do you see a few distinct outlines like with a strobe light? I have found that at least some of the "integrated LED" lamps have pretty low pulse rates and I find the flickering to become pretty disconcerting quickly These are usually the cheapest "compatible with all dimmer" ones, since they're literally just strings of LEDs in parallel across the mains. Usually undimmable ones have a pretty decent driver going on once you get above the $50 mark, and a brand-name dimmable will have really good drivers.
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Sep 1, 2017 00:01
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:These are usually the cheapest "compatible with all dimmer" ones, since they're literally just strings of LEDs in parallel across the mains. Usually undimmable ones have a pretty decent driver going on once you get above the $50 mark, and a brand-name dimmable will have really good drivers. This is super fun with two strings of the cheapest LED christmas lights put right on top of each other. You can see them flickering against each other. It's awful.
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Sep 1, 2017 00:09
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:These are usually the cheapest "compatible with all dimmer" ones, since they're literally just strings of LEDs in parallel across the mains. Usually undimmable ones have a pretty decent driver going on once you get above the $50 mark, and a brand-name dimmable will have really good drivers. and honestly not MUCH over $50, right in that exact price range there's a lot of stuff dimmable by multiple methods with extremely legit drivers and heat management ...on the really high end the lamp has a button that kicks the PWM frequency up to 40kHz in case you happen to be shooting highspeed video and can see the flickering
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Sep 1, 2017 03:28
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Just bought a house. Old rear end fuse setup with a couple of sub panels wasn't up to code so just had that replaced with one breaker box and the electrician also added a ground. Most of house is Knob & Tube. Almost zero outlets are grounded, and even worse, a lot of the switches/receptacles have the white as hot and black as neutral. I know that for stuff that isn't grounded, it's best to put a GFCI outlet in its place. Going to have the electrician come in on Tuesday and run conduit/cable on a new circuit to where my home office is, just so I can have some good, grounded wire done by a professional. I am going to have to do a lot more work on this house. Some questions I have now: 1. Since washer and gas dryer will need new cable/conduit, they would each need to be on their own circuit because of the wattage, right? Not sure if it matters but the washer is Energy Star certified. 1a. Since the plugs on the washer/dryer are also only regular three prongs, I can safely assume they'll be fine on 15a cable/outlet/breaker, right? 2. Why do some electronics have three prongs and others don't? 3. I'd really like to have the garage power be grounded. If I'm able to find where the conduit is that goes from the breaker panel to the garage, is it as easy as disconnecting the old cable from the breaker panel, attaching it to the new cable, and pulling it through?
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Sep 1, 2017 18:52
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Doctor Butts posted:Just bought a house. Old rear end fuse setup with a couple of sub panels wasn't up to code so just had that replaced with one breaker box and the electrician also added a ground. Most of house is Knob & Tube. Almost zero outlets are grounded, and even worse, a lot of the switches/receptacles have the white as hot and black as neutral. 1. Yes, generally you want appliances on their own circuit so that they're isolated and won't trip the breaker when you plug in your toaster or whatever. 1a. 15A is fine, but I don't bother installing anything but 20A breakers for future proofing. The 12g wire is a bit tougher to work with but it's nice not having to worry about how many devices are connected to one circuit. Only do this if it's an entirely new circuit with only 12g wiring or better. 2. It's all dependent on how the electronic device is designed. Mainly the third prong is just grounding in case there's a short, instead of shorting to ground through you and potentially killing you it'll short to ground through that third prong. It's most common in devices that run at higher voltages or have conductive parts. 3. Depends on the kind of conduit you've got, it might already be grounded too.
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Sep 1, 2017 19:22
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So I built a wall and added 4 outlets to it. I then bought a circuit breaker to add that new run to the panel. I just realized I bought a 20 amp breaker. Should I return it and get a 15?
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Sep 1, 2017 20:19
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