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# ? Jun 1, 2024 05:20 |
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BANME.sh posted:I loved my Spotmatic F and I regret selling it to Helen Highwater. I've been using it a lot. It's a lovely camera and the lenses you sold me with it complement my M42 Soviet glass really well. Spotmatic002.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr Spotmatic048.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
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# ? Aug 9, 2017 12:58 |
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I <3 Minolta SRT cameras I shot miles of film through a several SRT models when I was a teenager
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# ? Aug 9, 2017 20:08 |
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Man, the more I use my Zorki-6 the more I just wish for a small, affordable rangefinder with AE. I'm probably going to end up making some kind of dumb camera purchase soon. I love everything about my z6 except for the fact that I am super dumb at estimating exposure.
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# ? Aug 9, 2017 22:51 |
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Sauer posted:If you just want a camera as a fashion accessory then yes to any of those I suppose. My "high end" 35mm film camera is a Nikon F80 that does all the same stuff modern DSLR does but the sensor is film. I also already own a number of lenses for it from my former DSLR, which was a huge plus. What is your motivation for getting a fancy camera? Well, right now I have an f100 as I shoot Nikon for my digital, and don't get me wrong the thing is loving awesome, but it tears through batteries and is a bit bigger than I would like for a 35mm. I also have some smaller things like the Olympus RC, an FM10, an AE1, but as someone else said part of it is the lens range. I would love to explore some other systems. After using nicer lenses on my Hasselblad and Pentax 67 the Nikon's offerings, granted I don't own anything nicer than the 85/1.4, seem kind of second tier. I think I'm leaning towards the Bessa R4M right now.
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# ? Aug 9, 2017 22:54 |
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Martytoof posted:Man, the more I use my Zorki-6 the more I just wish for a small, affordable rangefinder with AE. I'm probably going to end up making some kind of dumb camera purchase soon. keep practicing estimating your exposure and you'll get better. i promise.
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# ? Aug 9, 2017 23:46 |
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Big "Happy" Balls... Fomapan 400, which I'm not at all a fan of; but its cheap when just testing out an newly repaired Yashica Electro. Moments later it would get quite a lot of chalk thrown at it necessitating another tear down to clean it out. Whites in Foma films tend to completely block out no matter how careful I am with exposure (that shot is not an example of that since I'm obviously pointing at the sun). The Price of Seating Kodak T-Max 400, which I am a huge fan of and the ice trays in my freezer have to live at the back to make room for it all. Sauer fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Aug 11, 2017 |
# ? Aug 11, 2017 07:00 |
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I think this is pretty cool. Sauer posted:Kodak T-Max 400, which I am a huge fan of and the ice trays in my freezer have to live at the back to make room for it all. I've not had much luck with T-Max, but I like what other people do with it. One of my own on Kodak Gold 200:
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# ? Aug 12, 2017 05:00 |
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Sauer posted:Kodak T-Max 400, which I am a huge fan of and the ice trays in my freezer have to live at the back to make room for it all. Hell yeah T-MAX ftw
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# ? Aug 12, 2017 13:13 |
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alkanphel posted:Hell yeah T-MAX ftw I'm a die hard subscriber to T-max. Speaking of Spotmatics, has anyone ever used a light meter app on their phone rather than put batteries in for the meter?
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# ? Aug 13, 2017 17:59 |
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I've used an app called Light meter (go figure) on my Nexus 4. Reflective metering with the main camera worked fine until there was hardly any light around (street lamps). Incident with the light detector on the front was useless. Always way off and inconsistent one measurement to the next. The Spotmatic has a bridge circuit for its meter so 1.5v batteries work fine in it without effecting meter sensitivity. I can't recall the specific silver cell that fits proper off the top of my head. It's smaller than an SR44 and has a plastic spacer ring around it. I'll check when I get home. Its a match needle meter (sorta) so its a little annoying to use since you need to turn it on and it can't directly drive the aperture or shutter. I just take a reading whenever the light changes a noticeable amount and eyeball any small adjustments from that. Its not going to be a major issue with negative films. If you've got time the center weighting works quite well for reading off the shadows. Edit: Its the Energizer 387s. Its just a regular 387 with a plastic ring around it. Renata still makes the 's' type and plain 387 batteries are readily available. Get a 387s once and keep the plastic ring for use with easier to find 387. The 392 and 394 will also fit but are a little smaller. Same plastic ring though. They fit a bit lose and it may take a try or two to center them properly to get get a proper grounding with the cap. Once the cap it screwed down they won't move. Sauer fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Aug 14, 2017 |
# ? Aug 13, 2017 18:12 |
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Really dumb question: What the hell is the little curved piece of metal that you slide into a 35mm canister to pull out film that has been accidentally rewound called? I have no idea where mine went and can't figure out what it's called to google/amazon one. I keep getting overwraught things like this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/233869-REG/Kaiser_204132_35mm_Film_retriever.html
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# ? Aug 14, 2017 16:33 |
stealie72 posted:Really dumb question: What the hell is the little curved piece of metal that you slide into a 35mm canister to pull out film that has been accidentally rewound called? I have no idea where mine went and can't figure out what it's called to google/amazon one. I keep getting overwraught things like this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/233869-REG/Kaiser_204132_35mm_Film_retriever.html I don't think you're going to find anything other than that kind of standard film leader retriever.
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# ? Aug 14, 2017 16:47 |
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Get a piece of film, put a piece of double sided tape on it, jam it in, turn the film winding thing and then pull hard.
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# ? Aug 14, 2017 17:12 |
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nielsm posted:I don't think you're going to find anything other than that kind of standard film leader retriever.
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# ? Aug 14, 2017 17:21 |
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Does this look more like what you want? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/122166-Arista-Metal-35mm-Film-Retriever I just use a plastic one like this and it works fine: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/32760-Arista-Deluxe-35mm-Film-Retriever
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# ? Aug 14, 2017 19:06 |
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Dudeabides posted:I'm a die hard subscriber to T-max. Speaking of Spotmatics, has anyone ever used a light meter app on their phone rather than put batteries in for the meter? If you do the modification, you can use a pretty cheap battery. I've found the meter on my spotmatic (which had a cla from eric hendrickson maybe 5 years ago now, he also modded it to use the cheap batteries) to be more accurate than the phone programs. It cost like 60bux.
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# ? Aug 14, 2017 20:25 |
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Get the MR-9 adapter from pratedthai on ebay for like $20. Worked perfectly in my spotmatic and you get the bonus of being able to reuse it in other cameras that require a PX625
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# ? Aug 14, 2017 20:28 |
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Spotmatics don't need any odd batteries or adapters. It has a bridge circuit that can compensate for a decent amount of voltage variance. Pentax probably designed it to deal with batteries of questionable quality rather than foreseeing the banning of mercury batteries but bonus for us. It will happily use any alkaline, silver oxide or zinc air you can fit in the hole without any effect on meter accuracy. 387s batteries fit perfectly and you can get them on Amazon cheaply (Renata brand). Make sure they have the plastic ring. Regular 387, 392 and 394 batteries will also fit in the hole but need a nonconductive shim (rubber o-ring works fine) to avoid shorting to ground.
Sauer fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Aug 14, 2017 |
# ? Aug 14, 2017 20:53 |
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eggsovereasy posted:Does this look more like what you want? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/122166-Arista-Metal-35mm-Film-Retriever
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# ? Aug 15, 2017 03:51 |
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Where's the best place to get film development done for the film only if I'm not feeling like finding a darkroom? Do any consumer labs even do it anymore?
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# ? Aug 15, 2017 21:45 |
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Dudeabides posted:Where's the best place to get film development done for the film only if I'm not feeling like finding a darkroom? Do any consumer labs even do it anymore? When you say "do any consumer labs do it anymore" it sounds like you're asking about B&W, and the answer to that question is no. Also, you don't need a darkroom to develop film.
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# ? Aug 15, 2017 22:59 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:When you say "do any consumer labs do it anymore" it sounds like you're asking about B&W, and the answer to that question is no. Also, you don't need a darkroom to develop film. I'll rephrase and say, I don't have a drum and other equipment for developing at home. I wanted to see if there was anywhere besides dedicated camera shops that would offer processing.
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# ? Aug 15, 2017 23:12 |
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Where are you based? I live in a tiny Slovakian town and there are three places I know of within walking distance of my house that still develop film, one is a mom and pop style camera store, one is a big European chain that prints your photos onto mugs and cushions and poo poo, the other is a chain camera/prints/picture frames store. They can all do 135 and 120 film in colour or B&W, plus the mom and pop place will do sheet film, the only stuff they can't handle between them is E6 which has to be sent to Germany. The equipment for developing film at home costs something like $70. It pays for itself within about 10 rolls based on the prices I've seen for developing in places that aren't Eastern Europe.
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# ? Aug 15, 2017 23:50 |
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I'm in the northeast USA so there may be a few chains that still do. I may break down one day and buy the gear so I can just do it myself.
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# ? Aug 16, 2017 01:07 |
Dudeabides posted:I'm in the northeast USA so there may be a few chains that still do. I may break down one day and buy the gear so I can just do it myself. Oh yeah, you should be fine. Walgreens often still does. I have a local store in Orlando, Colonial Photo & Hobby, that develops small and medium-format so I can get my 120 developed there. I tried a mail order business, but the roll never came back. Thankfully it was just me bullshitting on a Lomography Diana so nothing I wanted desperately to keep.
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# ? Aug 16, 2017 18:10 |
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chitoryu12 posted:I have a local store in Orlando, Colonial Photo & Hobby, that develops small and medium-format so I can get my 120 developed there. I've been there, it's a pretty cool store. Here's some Delta 100
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# ? Aug 16, 2017 20:18 |
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Dudeabides posted:I'm in the northeast USA so there may be a few chains that still do. I may break down one day and buy the gear so I can just do it myself. If you are doing B&W, just buy the equipment and chemicals to do it yourself. It pays for itself pretty quick, and it gives you the freedom to do push processing or try different developers for different looks. For color, you can still find chain drug stores that do it, but more often then not they mail it off to a lab. And I'd they do have a minilab on site, who knows how well it is maintained.
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# ? Aug 16, 2017 20:54 |
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Dudeabides posted:I'm in the northeast USA so there may be a few chains that still do. I may break down one day and buy the gear so I can just do it myself. It's not impossible to find a place that'll do B/W, although it is harder. When I lived in Buffalo, there was a local photo/print shop that would do B/W, 120, all sorts of stuff (in addition to the probably far more popular services like digitizing old cassettes and making prints, of course). The prices weren't too bad, 6$/roll b/w, 5$/cd + 3$/additional roll on cd (in 2013, though). They did only do B/W like two days a week, so depending on when you got in you might have to wait a few days, and their website is a mostly-broken disaster (and literally stuck in 2005). But places like that do still exist, even outside of the NW. Probably your best bet would be to find a photo shop that actually sells various types of film, and ask them if there's anywhere nearby that does development.
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# ? Aug 17, 2017 02:50 |
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Picked up a minolta 135/3.5 and some TMAX 400, both for the first time. Definitely not as sharp as Delta 100/Xtol and the 28mm I usually go with on 35mm. I'm wondering if the lens or the film is a bigger factor in that here.
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# ? Aug 17, 2017 23:18 |
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Repaired Canonet trip report: Works pretty well. I can't remember the last time I used shutter priority on my full PASM cameras but I didn't mind it on this thing. Its easy to change the shutter speed while looking through the viewfinder to set the aperture you want anyhow. Its light, handles well, very easy to focus and the lens is pretty good. Feels far better in my hands than the Yashica Electro and the focusing lever is actually very useful. I can almost see the entire frame with my glasses on (the Pentax M series cameras remains the king here). Only complaint I have is that shots I took with a filter mounted had a line of flare along the bottom of the frames; these all happened with the sun straight up above in noon light though. Still haven't received the lens hoods I ordered. Motherfukkin Beavertails Spray on Silhouette A bunch more in this album. And wouldn't you know it but a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 ended up on my local Kijiji for ten bux and is now on my workbench. Its also "broken" but its just the usual stuck shutter and aperture. Those are usually trivial to fix if you're comfortable opening the lens up. Lens barrel moves when the shutter release is pressed so the lens mount has probably come lose from the body frame. A little annoying since fixing that involves removing the leatherette. Its about the same size as the Yashica Electro but the lens is sensibly offset a little to the left so there's room to grip the camera properly; doesn't feel like a cramped brick in my hands like the Electro does. Viewfinder is a little larger than the Canonent and easy to look through with glasses but the focusing patch is smaller. No lever either (I really like that lever). Mechanical shutter so a dead battery is no biggie and it offer the full PASM allotment determined by whether you turn the aperture ring, shutter speed ring or both to something other than automatic. Makes two annoying ping noises (vibrating springs) when the shutter release is pressed and released; hopefully goes away when the shutter is freed up. Edit: The battery compartment button has a checkerboard knurling pattern on the bottom that will scratch up your desk if you push the camera around on it. Pick up your camera like a gentleman, don't just shove it around. Sauer fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Aug 18, 2017 |
# ? Aug 18, 2017 06:37 |
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BANME.sh posted:Yeah mine looks exactly the same except where yours has X and M for flash sync, mine has this: This is a while ago now I know but I just bought a Zorki 2-C today and it has a selector underneath the shutterspeed dial with numbers from 0-30. It's not a dial like yours but instead it looks like the flash mode selector dials. Apparently it's to select the duration for flash and isn't a DIN reminder.
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# ? Aug 23, 2017 00:34 |
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Helen Highwater posted:This is a while ago now I know but I just bought a Zorki 2-C today and it has a selector underneath the shutterspeed dial with numbers from 0-30. It's not a dial like yours but instead it looks like the flash mode selector dials. My Zenit uses the same kind of button for flash mode selection. Considering soviet standards, that seens like some help at least :p
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# ? Aug 24, 2017 16:03 |
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Anyone recommend a low-mid range scanner? I'm looking at the Epson V550 and Canon 9000F Mark II which are both currently on sale near me. Tried using a 10 year old HP scanner which crashes on me constantly so gently caress dat poo poo
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# ? Aug 25, 2017 06:23 |
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Cacator posted:Anyone recommend a low-mid range scanner? I'm looking at the Epson V550 and Canon 9000F Mark II which are both currently on sale near me. Tried using a 10 year old HP scanner which crashes on me constantly so gently caress dat poo poo If you can afford a used v700 it's worth the extra cash. Also look into the older epsons in that range i think the 4990 is the v700 equivalent. 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Aug 25, 2017 |
# ? Aug 25, 2017 07:15 |
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I use a v500 for medium format and 4990 for large, the v500 is quicker per shot compared to the 4990 and I've got a good one so the out put is good enough.
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# ? Aug 25, 2017 09:14 |
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This looks tasty: https://petapixel.com/2017/08/24/nikon-d850-doubles-45-7mp-film-scanner/
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# ? Aug 25, 2017 09:33 |
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I've been looking for a replacement for my olllllld Epson 3600 scanner which involves just using my XPro1. I have nothing against the scans my 3600 churns out even though they're nowhere near ideal. For posting to Flickr they're fine though. Mainly I want to get rid of it so I don't have another tech gizmo lying around my den which goes unused 99.999999% of the year. So I'm going to probably have to figure out what I need to get to make my XPro1 into some kind of badass scanning doodad.
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# ? Aug 25, 2017 16:58 |
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I love my Epson v550. If you're looking for sample images all the 6x7 shots on my Flickr are scanned in with one.
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# ? Aug 25, 2017 17:10 |
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# ? Jun 1, 2024 05:20 |
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Epson Perfection V600 crew checking in. As a bonus, if you have a Mac, it shows up in Finder as a mounted drive with the name PERV600. I shot some of the re-enactors with the train outside my apartment the other day. Somehow I managed to get a double exposure. I'm not sure how because that particular camera (Moskva 5) needs to be wound on and for the shutter to be cocked separately in order for the shutter button to move. To do a deliberate double exposure, you need to cock the shutter and gently caress about with the linkage underneath the bellows and I'm pretty sure I didn't do that. Anyway, the double exposure lined up nicely which probably says more about my lack of imagination in posing than anything else. LegioVlak005.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr Bonus Arax 88 long exposures. LegioVlak012.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr LegioVlak010.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
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# ? Aug 25, 2017 18:00 |