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ExecuDork posted:Next time, I'm gonna just replace all of the sparkplugs. That's probably better than having a mismatched set anyways. A family friend had a Ranger which was exhibiting bad high-rpm misfires basically constantly. He had replaced the plugs, but it continued to misfire. So he replaced the coil, but it continued to misfire. So he replaced sensors, but it continued to misfire. He was about to retime it so he brought it to me for a second opinion. It was a twin spark head Ranger, and he had only replaced one set of plugs. The other set was original to the truck and nearly 15 years and 200,000 km old.
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Aug 23, 2017 16:30
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A family friend had a Ranger which was exhibiting bad high-rpm misfires basically constantly. He had replaced the plugs, but it continued to misfire. So he replaced the coil, but it continued to misfire. So he replaced sensors, but it continued to misfire. He was about to retime it so he brought it to me for a second opinion.
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Aug 23, 2017 19:23
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Larrymer posted:It's a blue point. I got it as a gift and initially didn't think much of it (never used one) and now I love it. The sockets twist and lock in so they won't fall out and unlock easily to remove. It's pretty nice for not making 100 runs back and forth to my toolbox. drat, time to see if I can snag a used one on eBay. I need that.
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Aug 23, 2017 19:48
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Larrymer posted:It's a blue point. I got it as a gift and initially didn't think much of it (never used one) and now I love it. The sockets twist and lock in so they won't fall out and unlock easily to remove. It's pretty nice for not making 100 runs back and forth to my toolbox. ugh I wish so badly that I could stand up my sockets in any drawer of my toolbox. This would be perfect If I kept sockets in my split top cart. Maybe I should get another cart for just that purpose... *checks https://store.snapon.com/Roll-Carts-C629509.aspx* 
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Aug 23, 2017 21:07
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Larrymer posted:It's a blue point. I got it as a gift and initially didn't think much of it (never used one) and now I love it. The sockets twist and lock in so they won't fall out and unlock easily to remove. It's pretty nice for not making 100 runs back and forth to my toolbox. Thanks. Also want to let your know your garage and the floor makes mine look a pile of poo poo. Take that as a compliment.
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Aug 23, 2017 21:18
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C-Bangin' it 
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:ugh I wish so badly that I could stand up my sockets in any drawer of my toolbox. That's... eye watering. I have one of these and it's the jam. https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-5-drawer-glossy-red-tool-cart-61427.html Top compartment is deep enough for me to stand up all my deep-wells on HF's plastic socket trays.
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Aug 23, 2017 21:26
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Colostomy Bag posted:Thanks. Also want to let your know your garage and the floor makes mine look a pile of poo poo. Take that as a compliment. Thanks.  I just redid a bunch of stuff (if you haven't been following the garage/workshop thread) and this is the first time it was seeing some proper garage work since.GnarlyCharlie4u posted:ugh I wish so badly that I could stand up my sockets in any drawer of my toolbox. I have a junky HF tool cart and just set it in the top (top is always open for me). But eventually I'm going to replace it with this behemoth and remove the top door/struts: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-18-Drawer-Tool-Chest-and-Rolling-Tool-Cabinet-Set-Black-HTC5206-HMT5212/205431577 Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Aug 23, 2017 |
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Aug 23, 2017 21:30
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Larrymer posted:Thanks. No I haven't. Am curious on your floor coating since that is always the big one.
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Aug 23, 2017 22:40
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:ugh I wish so badly that I could stand up my sockets in any drawer of my toolbox. Wow. Snap-On has moved into designer handbag territory. There is literally nothing about those carts that could possibly cost that much to in materials or labor, even including design work, unless they are made out of precious or exotic alloys. Larrymer posted:I have a junky HF tool cart and just set it in the top (top is always open for me). But eventually I'm going to replace it with this behemoth and remove the top door/struts: I'm extremely happy with my Costco roller that's about that size. I do like the taller top shelf - I can't stand up my drill drivers and such in mine. I moved from a Craftsman three-drawer box, and their smallest, crappiest rollaway, and tools stashed all over, to the big roller, and it's almost indescribably how much nocer it is. Worth every penny of the $400 I spent (on clearance at the time - $100 off).
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Aug 23, 2017 23:46
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Ive noticed sometimes costco has snap on tool packs or utility knives and whatnot for perfectly reasonable prices and it just pisses me off more about their absurd markup.
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Aug 24, 2017 01:19
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Snap-on is the same thing as Rent-a-Center, but for mechanics. And probably a worse deal than RAC.
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Aug 24, 2017 03:40
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angryrobots posted:Snap-on is the same thing as Rent-a-Center, but for mechanics. And probably a worse deal than RAC. 14" can attest to that.
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Aug 24, 2017 04:14
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On the other hand, Snap On stuff is generally drat good stuff with a good warranty. RAC is the same poo poo you'd get at Best Buy, except the APR when you rent to own is basically loan shark territory. Especially when the major appliance stuff (stove, fridge, washer, dryer, etc) can easily be found for a tiny fraction of their original MSRP if you don't mind used (my washer and dryer were $100 for the set.. add $15 for a cord for the dryer and $5 for new agitator dogs for the washer - and they're not that old for used stuff). I got to play with a Verus recently. That drat thing will make any car it's hooked up to sing the song of its people.
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Aug 24, 2017 04:42
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I polished my dipstick! For real though it was the dirtiest dipstick handle ive ever seen i had to scrub the poo poo out of it. It was like 45 years of just not giving a gently caress that i faithfully continued. I loled that it wasnt a black handle like i thought it was though.
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Aug 24, 2017 06:54
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I put the subframe back in!
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Aug 24, 2017 14:21
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:basically loan shark territory. That was specifically the part I was referring to.
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Aug 24, 2017 14:35
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DogonCrook posted:Ive noticed sometimes costco has snap on tool packs or utility knives and whatnot for perfectly reasonable prices and it just pisses me off more about their absurd markup. They're not really snap-on. The name has just been licensed and appropriated to some lovely Chinese tool.
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Aug 24, 2017 16:04
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Colostomy Bag posted:No I haven't. Am curious on your floor coating since that is always the big one. I went with a local company to coat it, it was less expensive than I thought it would be (just over $1k, ~420 sq.ft 2 car garage) It's a very basic 100% epoxy coating with flakes in it, no sand added for grit. Unfortunately I had to remove all the terrible, unsafe, expensive to remove poo poo on top of it, though. 
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Aug 24, 2017 16:23
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angryrobots posted:Snap-on is the same thing as Rent-a-Center, but for mechanics. And probably a worse deal than RAC. Snap-On is a finance company that just happens to sell good tools on the side.
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Aug 24, 2017 18:17
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:They're not really snap-on. The name has just been licensed and appropriated to some lovely Chinese tool. I was going to say basically the same thing myself. Snap-On has sold it's name to poo poo-tier companies, *while still making decent tools themselves*. How in the name of all that's holy is this any kind of sound business practice? All it does is dilute their brand image, and badly, in my opinion, because folks will by the poo poo quality stuff, discover how bad it is, then just LOL endlessly at how much the real stuff is. I mean, I guess mechanics might still by Snap-On from the truck, but using their name for crap will ruin it with normal consumers. A better idea would have been to make at least a quality consumer-grade line (which I think was what Blue Point was supposed to be...) Full disclosure: I got a "Snap-On" multitool kit - two liner-lock knives, a multi-tool, and an LED flashlight - as a gift, and they're decent though Chinese stuff, but definitely not actual Snap-On.
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Aug 24, 2017 21:26
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Just bought new rear brakes for the dually. Why do you have to take the axles out, remove the hub, and pound the wheel studs out to change the rotors?! R.I.P. my free time for a while.
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Aug 24, 2017 21:56
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I had to work on my sister chevy metro. I hate other people's cars. Rusty brake lines in the rear, rusty evap hose thing. Replaced front brakes, replaced both front axles. Did I mention I hate working on cars?
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Aug 24, 2017 22:28
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Darchangel posted:Kind of looks that way. Swap the two rear O2s side to side and see if the issue stays with the converter, or follows the sensor. Ordered a spacer, and in the intervening days I drove a bunch with OD Off to heat up the cats. Still looks jumpy, but much less so and the car finally said "catalyst ready" on the emissions monitor, and didn't throw a light or code (like it has been doing ever since it rained the first time this year a few weeks ago). Reading up on crownvic.net, looks like Ford has a (and I'm probably misunderstanding this) .6 allowable "ratio" of peaks from the front to rear sensors. If I understand this, that means if the front swings 1 time / sec, the post cat sensor can peak/swing 60% of the time? The spacer arrived, so if it pops a light again I'll throw it on.
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Aug 24, 2017 23:12
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Just bought new rear brakes for the dually. Eff that. I pick the stuff I want to work on, that doesn't sound like fun. Give the book time guys something to do!
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Aug 25, 2017 00:09
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Ordered a spacer, and in the intervening days I drove a bunch with OD Off to heat up the cats. Still looks jumpy, but much less so and the car finally said "catalyst ready" on the emissions monitor, and didn't throw a light or code (like it has been doing ever since it rained the first time this year a few weeks ago). The sensors are pretty robust id try cleaning them. Id also still check the cat with an ir thermometer. Removing it from the stream kills the light but if its not fully heating its gonna clog in short order and pulses also indicate the catalyst isnt achieving combustion.
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Aug 25, 2017 01:32
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This is four brand new sensors, in my first post. My bad. I did get both cats to glow red, but that was during the "drive without OD on the freeway" trips in attempt to burn them up. I'll check during normal driving.
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Aug 25, 2017 02:18
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:This is four brand new sensors, in my first post. My bad. If it stops getting better id do the thermometer to find out how bad it is. By comparing temps at the inlet and outlet of both you could get a good idea what % is obstructed if it is at all. If its glowing itll probably eventually clear for the most part. The rear sensors dont do anything at all really so if there is no power loss you can already start ignoring it imo its only function is to trigger the code for the cats. Just keep in mind to check the cats first next time the car feels sluggish.
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Aug 25, 2017 03:19
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I fabricobbled up some new linkage for the clutch a couple days ago, painted it up and installed... and it works*! Well it worked anyway. Got the clutch released and I was able to spin the tranny by hand, which meant I could seat it properly to the bellhousing. So I bolted up the transmission, attached the intermediate drive shaft, filled with oil, put the shifter on, and hooked up the transfer case shifter. So the driveline is back together! I didn't get the tunnel cover back on yet but it's next. *While playing with my new clutch though, I broke it in a different spot. Not broke really, but it came apart as a Cotter pin broke off. I'll pick up a new one and see if I can replicate the failure. I suspect I used a piece of wire instead of a pin in a pinch and it gave way. Probably should put a washer in there too. I then peeled up a bunch of rubber flooring with a scraper, and removed some rust... with a shop vac. This thing was holding together with nothing but dirt, flooring and hopes.
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Aug 25, 2017 04:35
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I bought a Dodge from the cop auction. It was one of theirs. Rear doors have literally cut linkages for rear doors, as well as the wires. Dodge. All of the wires are orange. Sub-lines are, you know, loving dirty too. Blue, light blue, grey - they're the loving same. The other two wires aren't quite as difficult to discern. The door linkages, as mentioned, are already loving cut. Of course they only left enough to zip-tie up into place because it saved 10 minutes, and doesn't make more noise than the loving grate between the front and rear. Holes all over, random slightly-leaking positive leads left in the A pillar and wherever-the-gently caress-else. Why the hell did I buy a cop car? They're butchers. Butchers work on meat, and they do a great job. As mechanics? Not so much. E: Neutered BCM, too. Despite fixing wiring, I can't get the trunk to pop (after rebuilding the loving thing) until after I get the car turned off. COP BCM means won't pop unless running. Not running here. Only with keyfobs when car is off. If this pile of poo poo was any more gutless, I'd let it sit and catch fire from it's own crappy half-assed mods. Anyone wanna buy a Dodge? Bipolar Transistor fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 04:40
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Bipolar Transistor posted:I bought a Dodge from the cop auction. It was one of theirs. Rear doors have literally cut linkages for rear doors, as well as the wires. Dodge. All of the wires are orange. Sub-lines are, you know, loving dirty too. Generally when you buy a big block Dodge from auction you have to tear that engine down before you can run shine in it.
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Aug 25, 2017 05:08
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StormDrain posted:Generally when you buy a big block Dodge from auction you have to tear that engine down before you can run shine in it. It's 106 miles to Chicago, we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark... and we're wearing sunglasses. 
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Aug 25, 2017 06:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Was it an automatic? On a whim while waiting for the replacement starter to arrive, I pulled the inhibitor relay (instructions for replacing starters on Nissans all have fine print telling me to replace the inhibitor relay or the clutch switch relay with a brand new one). Contacts on both sides were clean, so I gave it a squirt with contact cleaner before putting it back in the fuse box. So I went to pull the starter and boy howdy Nissan does not want you to pull the starter. Whole thing is tucked under the intake manifold like a nursing infant, and is covered by some kind of inexplicable metal brace that obscures all useful fasteners. I only just now got home and bothered to check the internet only to find that two anonymous bolts hidden behind the EGR tube are the starter mount bolts.  I didn't even get to see the starter today after removing everything north of the intake manifold and farting around with the metal brace.  Nobody buy a loving Nissan. Should have another run at this kitty in a few days. Still feeling optimistic. Spent a bit of time pulling ground bolts, cleaning them, and checking - all that I was able to get at seem okay, but apparently a bunch of them ground onto the starter. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 06:20
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Can you get to it any better from below? Or did they just bury it that much worse than on the KA? The FSM made some stuff seem far worse than it was. Knock sensor, for example... FSM said you had to pull the intake manifold, EGR, etc to get to it. I knocked it out in ~15 minutes by going at it from under the car (mostly by feel though). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 06:32
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angryrobots posted:Eff that. I pick the stuff I want to work on, that doesn't sound like fun. I'm taking the truck to Vermont in a couple weeks, so I figured if I want to guarantee it's done, I have to do it myself.
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Aug 25, 2017 14:09
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Took the subframe down and filled the subframe bushings with window weld. Letting it cure now. Hopefully this will be the last time the subframe is down for a while.
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Aug 25, 2017 14:13
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Can you get to it any better from below? Or did they just bury it that much worse than on the KA? You have to alternate between under the car and over the car apparently. The brace cannot be fully removed, so you have to pry it out of the way and have a second person hold the starter from above to get the bolt started from below. Almost the entire job seems to be blind. I might try popping the rear motor mount off and see what that gets me. The FSM for the car has no mention of how to remove the starter, only disassembling the starter and a long diatribe on the power points I should check. It's all forums tutorials with broken Photobucket images if I need advice from someone who's actually done something. It does have a section on removing the intake manifold Y-brace but it is part of the "dismantling the engine" section so it assumes that the engine is removed by then. The diagrams and other steps are also inconsistent as to whether or not that brace exists, which makes me think it's a later-year addition that inconsistently got added to the FSM. I have a suspicion the 'official' way to do this is to drop the engine out the bottom of the car and do it from there. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 14:17
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And this is why I will never, EVER, own or work on another Nissan product for as long as I live. gently caress that company and their "engineers" to hell
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Aug 25, 2017 14:30
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:Just bought new rear brakes for the dually. So yours does the thing like older GM front disks, where the disk is the hub, or what? Any manufacturer that isn't using separate rotors slipped over hubs, front or rear, deserves scorn and hate. That's one thing I hate about my Cutlass. chrisgt posted:I had to work on my sister chevy metro. I hate other people's cars. For me, it's not so much "working on cars" as "working on other people's cars". But I feel worse when I let them get ripped off by a mechanic, or worse, just let the issue ruin the car. Metal Geir Skogul posted:This is four brand new sensors, in my first post. My bad. Sounds like you may have cleaned the cat. Probably could have done it with a nice long highway drive, even with OD on, but if you don't have time for a nice, long highway drive... I have a tendency to drive my CV like I stole it fairly often, so haven't had this particular issue. Most of the time when I have a check engine light, it's because I got the gas cap on crooked and it didn't seal. Stupid quarter-turn gas cap.
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Aug 25, 2017 15:30
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Bipolar Transistor posted:I bought a Dodge from the cop auction. It was one of theirs. Rear doors have literally cut linkages for rear doors, as well as the wires. Dodge. All of the wires are orange. Sub-lines are, you know, loving dirty too. It all depends on who did the cop equipment install, and what equipment, exactly. Undoubtedly, some of the installers are hacks. On the Crown Vics, if they are built as a cop car (P71) they ship with the inside door handle and lock rods uninstalled, and bundled in the trunk, and the power window harness unplugged in the B-pillar. All you have to do is install the linkages and plug the wiring harness back together. Or, in my case, go to the wrecking yard and rob another CV/Gran Marq of it's linkages, and install them. Power trunk on the CVs is direct wiring, no BCM involved, and Ford was thoughtful enough to provide plugs for both constant and ignition-switched power for the button. There's also a fantastic wiring harness under the dash with both kinds of power fees, and other tie-ins, and something similar in the trunk, including a 30A battery feed. I got lucky. My CV has only one hole in the roof, and none of the wiring was hacked - they either didn't have a bunch of equipment, or bought the pigtails to plug into the factory connector(s). They installed (and removed) the interior divider well enough that I didn't find the holes until I had the seats out to install carpet. All in all, my CV was a hell of a deal (it was a family deal - my cousin bought it from the security company he worked for.)
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Aug 25, 2017 15:38
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Darchangel posted:So yours does the thing like older GM front disks, where the disk is the hub, or what? I'm not familiar with older GM front's but this appears to be a correct image of what I'm dealing with, the studs come through the backside of the rotor and then pin through the hub - necessitating stud removal to separate rotor and hub to r2 rotor.  edit: of course to get that whole assy off I need to take apart the end of the axle, etc.. edit2: now that I think about it, this is as good a time as any to buy a shop press. yay new tools. Garage2Roadtrip fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Aug 25, 2017 |
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Aug 25, 2017 15:44
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