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Just weighing my options. A used OEM wheel is like 300 bucks for a single. There's more value in getting new aftermarket wheels, but that's even more money. Repairing the wheel is kind of pain since turnaround time is at least a day and this is my only car. I'm considering getting new wheels, then repairing the bent wheel at my convenience. That's the most expensive option. The cheapest option is of course doing nothing, which I'm considering the consequences of.
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Sep 2, 2017 01:06
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If a used oem is three hundred wouldnt you recoup most if not all the cost of new wheels if you repair and sell the old ones? Or use them as winter tires if you live where there is a winter.
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Sep 2, 2017 01:18
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89 cougar is making A Noise. Very audible creak coming from the front left wheel when turning back and forth or when I hit a bump. Was not doing this earlier today but it can be heard over full-blast A/C now. Wheel doesn't seem to jiggle or move in any new directions if I try it. What else can I try?
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Sep 2, 2017 01:48
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Ball joint, next.
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Sep 2, 2017 03:26
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Literally Esoteric posted:I would happily do that, to a goon who can get some use out of it. I am in a far away land near Seattle though . . . Yeah that's a bit too far away for me, ah well hope you can get some decent money for it anyway.
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Sep 2, 2017 03:27
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Enourmo posted:Ball joint, next. I just had them (actually the entire control arms) replaced ~16000 miles ago/April 2016. Would one of them have failed that quickly?
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Sep 2, 2017 03:37
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Javid posted:I just had them (actually the entire control arms) replaced ~16000 miles ago/April 2016. Would one of them have failed that quickly? What a twist! Does it make the noise if you turn the wheel while it's in the air? If so, try feeling on the ball joint to see if that's where the vibration is coming from. Only other thing I can think of would be upper strut mounts, how old are the struts?
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Sep 2, 2017 03:38
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Older than my possession of the car. I don't readily have the ability to jack it up to check, though.
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Sep 2, 2017 03:45
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Does AI have a garage thread? And related, if AI does not have one should I create a thread here or in DIY soliciting garage ideas/tips? I am about to be having GCs quoting me to build a 2 car garage and want to pick brains on options and sizing and cool workbenches and storage options and so on. If my pricing works out I also plan to put in a car lift but that may get back burnered.
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Sep 2, 2017 04:25
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Does anyone have any experience with 2012 lincoln navigator rear power seats? The driver side 3rd row seat wont come up and I think the (nylon?) hardware that turns that big fuckoff threaded bar may have stripped out. The motor clicks when you push the button so I know its getting power.
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Sep 2, 2017 05:13
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Okay so I'm having alternator problems. The car is a 1984 VW Scirocco, but it has the alternator from a non-AC 2.0L mk3. This alternator is ridiculously hard to find, so I'm trying to find a way to fix it. The car has stable 14.0v at idle. Putting the multimeter on AC volts shows 0.015v and it's pretty stable. When I turn on loads, like my high beams, the voltage will drop slowly to 12.1v. This even happens at high rpm. The voltage will slowly creep back up to 14v again after I shut them off. The battery light and the OXS light both glow at half brightness while the car is running. They're LEDs, so this is weird. They're full brightness with key on engine off. The alternator has a rather loud whine. Anything you can easily hear over the sound of the engine on this car has got to be loud. It's definitely not the bearings. If I run the car with the belt on but no battery cable hooked to the alternator, there's no whine. The battery and ground cables are good. Trust me, it's the first thing I suspected because of the way it's acting. The voltage drop from the case of the alternator to the negative battery post is 0.015v. (They're 2gauge marine cables lol). On thr positive side I get 0.065v. The battery load tests good with 590 CCA. The car only requires 360 lol. When I disconnect the battery with the car idling (yeah yeah not a good idea) it goes up to 14.5v but stays stable. If I turn the headlights on the car immediately dies. The voltage regulator is actually still removable. It's a Bosch alternator AL0185X and has a Bosch regulator in it. The brushes seem short to me. They only have like 6mm sticking out. Odd because this is a reman unit and it's only 3 years old. I cleaned off the contacts on the regulator, but it had no effect. I have access to a good multimeter, and my work has an insane array of test equipment I can use, from oscilloscopes, to a curve tracer, spectrum analyzers, linear IC testers, power supplies and a whole bunch of other stuff.
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Sep 2, 2017 07:37
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What happens if you drop incandescent bulbs back in for the alternator and OXS indicators?
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Sep 2, 2017 07:42
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tangy yet delightful posted:Does AI have a garage thread? And related, if AI does not have one should I create a thread here or in DIY soliciting garage ideas/tips? We sure do! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3823532
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Sep 2, 2017 08:29
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:What happens if you drop incandescent bulbs back in for the alternator and OXS indicators? This is a good point. Usually the alternator light has to be about 2 watts or so to excite a winding in the alternator itself to make it self stabilize. I had to use some power resistors in my VW LED indicator conversions, and even then I had to "blip" the throttle to get it to start the proper voltages. Sometimes the voltage regulators on the alternators requires the specific properties of a pure resistive load (like an incandescent light) along with their power curve as they light up to regulate.
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Sep 2, 2017 09:48
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0toShifty posted:Okay so I'm having alternator problems. The car is a 1984 VW Scirocco, but it has the alternator from a non-AC 2.0L mk3. This alternator is ridiculously hard to find, so I'm trying to find a way to fix it. Just in case you can't get it fixed, RockAuto has some reman/new alternators, just look under '97 Golf 2.0. Specifically they do have one reman Bosch 70a no AC unit for $75 plus core.
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Sep 2, 2017 13:33
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:What happens if you drop incandescent bulbs back in for the alternator and OXS indicators? Hmm, I'm not sure, but the LEDs are stock in the car, and it does have resistors in line with them. I have an incandescent bulb I can try. This alternator seems to be self-exciting though. I didn't have the blue wire hooked up for a long time (because I hadn't made a connector for it yet) and I only had to blip it upon startup to get it to charge. After it was hooked up/ it works right away. Autoexec.bat posted:RockAuto
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Sep 2, 2017 15:23
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0toShifty posted:The car is a 1984 VW Scirocco 0toShifty posted:Hmm, I'm not sure, but the LEDs are stock in the car, No, they are not.
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Sep 2, 2017 16:48
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My father has a 46 ford flathead business coupe. He is having clearance issues with the stock fuel pump and a 4bbl intake manifold. Anyone into flatheads have any ideas? We figure he cant be the first person to come across this issue and were wondering if there were specs out there, or even somebody selling, a spacer to make everything happy.
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Sep 2, 2017 18:30
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Even with a spacer you have to extend the arm. You can chop the base off the pump and weld up anything you want to mount it. I dont think theres much more too it than that. Its probably way easier to just use an electric pump.
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Sep 2, 2017 19:14
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Motronic posted:No, they are not. Yea they definitely are.
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Sep 2, 2017 19:22
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Hey, thanks. My dad has been hearing the same thing from his friends too. He originally only wanted the mechanical pump because he wanted to run it with the stock two barrel. He's looking at electric fuel pumps now.
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Sep 2, 2017 19:31
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The remote mounts from this era look real cool so its no loss itll look better imo.
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Sep 2, 2017 19:36
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Ive got a buddy whos looking for an 81 200sx good interior exterior more emphasis on not needing body work and rust free. Im not really finding anything but totalled husks and beat to poo poo body work so far. Hell at this point interior may not even be big concern. I assume it will be more money than it's worth so im not worried about that. Is there a thread for this kind of stuff, and does anybody have any ideas where to look?
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Sep 2, 2017 20:05
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yea they definitely are. Are they? Honest question. My parts guides I use say they're sylvania 2721 bulbs, and there's no OEM LED equivalent for those. Just wondering. Could be like Ford with their surface-mount incandescent bulbs 
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Sep 2, 2017 20:15
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yea they definitely are. Rockauto disagrees with you. So did my high school friend's 85.
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Sep 2, 2017 20:27
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Quick question, whipped into my apartment parking lot a little too fast and scratched paint with the rear bumper of the car next to me. Black marks on both points where cars rubbed, about a foot in length each, no physical dents and maybe a inch of physical paint scratched up on his car. Left my phone number and went out to meet with him after, looked at his car and told him was willing to handle it cash, or to pay him if he wants to get it cleaned up/painted. He said he'd talk to a guy and give me a call later. Any ideas on what I'd probably run to get it fixed for him? The car is white, which I figure is easy enough to match. After some googling I'm estimating about 100-200 bucks?
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Sep 2, 2017 21:17
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Godholio posted:Rockauto disagrees with you. So did my high school friend's 85. The dash lights maybe but all the indicators are leds, alt, oxs sensor, blinker, high beams. They are on mine so I doubt the other S2s were different.
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Sep 2, 2017 21:41
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Does penetrating oil harm rubber boots? Specifically those on my sway bar end links? Power steering bellows, or tires for that matter. I know that some Penetrating oils have Perchlorethylene (perc) in them. That poo poo can gently caress up asphalt and stuff, which means probably other plastic/rubber parts as well. I had my wheels off yesterday to put new brake pads in, and I still need to replace springs/struts etc on my car, and I notice that the sway bar endlinks attach directly to the struts, so I'd have to undo those and they currently look pretty grimey. My plan was to spray them daily, or near daily for a week or so before I have to take them off and change out the struts.
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Sep 2, 2017 21:49
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I use seafoams deep creep and its safe on everything even though it will break down tar. I dont know why that is bit they say its safe on rubber because its detegrent free ao im guessing its detergents that you want to avoid. That is just a guess though im going off labels here.
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Sep 2, 2017 21:55
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Here's my cluster. I've had five of these mk2 sciroccos, and they all have had LEDs in the cluster. Also note the 80s style upshift indicator!
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Sep 2, 2017 22:18
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iroguebot posted:Quick question, whipped into my apartment parking lot a little too fast and scratched paint with the rear bumper of the car next to me. Black marks on both points where cars rubbed, about a foot in length each, no physical dents and maybe a inch of physical paint scratched up on his car. My mother just spent $900 on a new bumper for her 10 year old white 4runner. Just repainting (and ignoring the crack in the plastic) was about $750. If your paint transferred to his car, you might luck out. If they have to actually repaint his bumper, I suggest you stock up on ramen.
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Sep 2, 2017 22:26
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Are you sure the voltage regulator has a good contact if the brushes are that short? Eventually they hop and poo poo gets weird. I mean its cheap and its worn more than it should be so might as well swap it
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Sep 2, 2017 22:51
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Godholio posted:My mother just spent $900 on a new bumper for her 10 year old white 4runner. Just repainting (and ignoring the crack in the plastic) was about $750. In addition to this be prepared to go through insurance - even if it is just paint transfer and be fixed with claybar/rubbing compound don't be surprised if he expects a new bumper, claims fixing the damage is going to cost in excess of $1,000 and/or can't come up with a written estimate.
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Sep 2, 2017 23:18
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Geoj posted:In addition to this be prepared to go through insurance - even if it is just paint transfer and be fixed with claybar/rubbing compound don't be surprised if he expects a new bumper, claims fixing the damage is going to cost in excess of $1,000 and/or can't come up with a written estimate. I mean you guys are actually making me worry here. It's literally some black marks and a tiny hint of scratched paint, maybe an inch. He also stated he doesn't want to go through insurance. Just curious, he had dealer plates on the car (it's a 2011 toyota corolla), but didn't have registration in the windshield, isn't registration required before you can even roll it off the lot? Is there any chance he himself doesn't have insurance? He also failed to register the car with our office for a parking permit, think maybe something related?
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Sep 2, 2017 23:24
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It's typically how these cases end up. Either the at fault party vastly underestimates how much body repairs cost, or the victim demands a payday well in excess of what reasonable cost for the repair is.
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Sep 2, 2017 23:31
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0toShifty posted:Here's my cluster. I've had five of these mk2 sciroccos, and they all have had LEDs in the cluster. Also note the 80s style upshift indicator! My upshift indicator works sometimes and if I follow it I'm in 5th by like 15mph, efficiency.
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Sep 2, 2017 23:34
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iroguebot posted:I mean you guys are actually making me worry here.
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Sep 3, 2017 00:00
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I ended up ordering a 90A no A/C alternator from Autozone's website. As a former employee of Advance Auto, I am contractually obligated to hate everything about Autozone lol. It's Duralast Gold. oh wow branding. It's new, has a lifetime warranty, and I can go return it to their store when it breaks (it will). 20% off code got it for $82 and free shipping. It also will arrive sooner than RockAuto could manager for their costly shipping. Thanks again, Autoexec.bat for the rockauto suggestion - it got me going with more research.
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Sep 3, 2017 02:16
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I need to make a clutch line to actuate a hydraulic slave TR3650 from a Ford Mustang GT. What connector do I need to hook up the line to the slave? All the Japanese stuff is screw connectors, idk what this clip in poo poo is supposed to look like. Please help.
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Sep 3, 2017 04:13
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I just bought a 2002 F150 and it has a K&N filter installed, which replaces most of the intake all the way to the intake manifold. The guy gave me all (I think) the original intake parts so I could put it back to stock. Should I leave it alone or put it back to stock?
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Sep 3, 2017 04:34
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