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If you're trying to do white over black, just skip the trouble and punch yourself directly in the dick instead. Failing that, remember two things: A few coats of progressively lighter greys will work up to white a lot faster than coat after coat of white, and also white stuff in the world isn't always (or really ever) pure bright white anyway.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:37
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Glossy white armor plating, like a stormtrooper  The good news is that I'm working up over a zenethial priming job, so at the very least the important parts are going to be a nice rich tone, but everything is scratchy-looking, almost like the pigment's breaking when it goes on the model, even if it looks solid on my palette.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:43
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Seconded on JoshTheStampede. Pure white should be used sparingly, as should pure black; you can't highlight any brighter than white, and you can't shade any darker than black. For whites, I like to use a very light base color with a "temperature" and build up from that, usually a warm khaki or cool light blue. I've got examples of both on this model here:  Both the shirt and apron are meant to read as white, but with different values.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:46
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White blows. Definitely working up from grey as mentioned is the way to go, especially if the base is black.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:48
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EDIT: efb x 3;
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Sep 5, 2017 21:49
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grassy gnoll posted:Am I cursed by exceptionally thin paint, or does it normally take a minimum dozen coats to get brushed-on white up to snuff? White's just really kind of a cunty color to get looking smooth in general, but a dozen coats seems like a bit much. Best way I can recommend to avoid this is to start with a very light grey (iirc Celestra Grey works well for basecoating), then work your way up to white highlights. The thing with white, as with black, is that it's an extreme color, in this case extreme highlights. You can't really get any whiter than pure white, so that needs to stay as the higher end of the highlights in order for the eye to register it as "white". Same with black and shadows, in that you can't get darker than black (without that vantablack knockoff stuff, anyway). You just need to walk that fine line between grey and white, and lean more towards that white side in order to not only have your white come across as white, but to retain the depth of shadows and highlights that (presumably) the rest of your model has.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:51
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I missed the post where you mentioned Stormtrooper armor. Here's a video that's pretty helpful with that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZUsfAtyEM0 Note that the dark wash Sorastro uses, GW Nuln Oil, isn't even a pure black itself--it has a slight amount of brown in it. So even that will impart a bit of color to models you use it on.
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Sep 5, 2017 22:07
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grassy gnoll posted:Am I cursed by exceptionally thin paint, or does it normally take a minimum dozen coats to get brushed-on white up to snuff? Are you priming white? If not, why not?
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Sep 5, 2017 22:33
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Are you priming white? Pretty much this. Why would you prime black if a large part of the model is white.
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Sep 5, 2017 23:05
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Also, I don't think I've ever applied white with a brush and had it look like anything other than crap. An airbrush is totally the way to go when doing white, unless you're actually starting from a light gray.
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Sep 6, 2017 00:47
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OptimusWang posted:These guys look pretty good for a first stab at cloth. Red can be a real bitch anyway, but making soft fabric transitions can be even trickier. I'm not drybrushing after my wash! This is before or after I apply the highlights? Or in lieu of highlights? And with a lighter shade, I'm assuming? Thanks for the tips! I'll have to try it out when I get to vader :3 The final Red Guard I turned into a Shadow Guard to make him Elite, and tried the combo of the Dark Reaper + Thunderhawk. I also hit it with two dark washes afterwards because it looked too blue to me. I think...the highlighting is a little too subtle on this one. But I'm not entirely unhappy with it. Learning is fun~  (I don't know why I had a lot less trouble with Ork flesh of all things. Probably has something to do with if they're a hot mess, nobody cares, cause Orks  )
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Sep 6, 2017 01:00
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Quidthulhu posted:
Your brain knows what red cloth and black cloth look like. Your brain does not immediately know what green skin looks like. Orcs get a pass as do many models that don't have "traditional" skin colors because you don't immediately parse them as incorrect when you see flaws.
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Sep 6, 2017 02:17
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Quidthulhu posted:I'm not drybrushing after my wash! This is before or after I apply the highlights? Or in lieu of highlights? And with a lighter shade, I'm assuming? The way I learned it was basecoat > wash > drybrush with the basecoat color to bring the mid tones back > drybrush with the highlight color to make the edges pop. Army Painter has a little guide that goes with their paints to give you different color combos:  They call shades inks, but otherwise that approach works with any line of paints. I did this guy's cloak using the second line: 
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Sep 6, 2017 02:18
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For a brushed on Pure white over black do two coats of Ulthuan grey thinned with a bit of Lahmian medium. Then two to three of thinned white. Use slow strokes of the brush to help keep it smooth. You can also alternate between coats with your brush strokes going vertically and horizontally for smoothness. Of course, shading it is going to make it harder, and you can't highlight pure white. I did my Mentor Legion this way, using the previous line of Citadel paints. This one was done over black. Personally, nowadays I just go with Ulthuan as the base colour and then edge highlight that with pure white. Shade with your choice between brown, black, or dark blue grey (Personally I'd use Agrax Gloss shade). Clean up will be easier with Ulthuan, and gloss shade will reduce staining outside of the areas where the shade settles. It isn't pristine, but with other colours on the model it will look close enough to white on the table, while retaining the visual distinction of the highlights and shading. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Sep 6, 2017 |
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Sep 6, 2017 03:52
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OptimusWang posted:The way I learned it was basecoat > wash > drybrush with the basecoat color to bring the mid tones back > drybrush with the highlight color to make the edges pop. Army Painter has a little guide that goes with their paints to give you different color combos: Wow, this looks SO much better than what I did. I'll look more into this for my future cloth! And if anyone has a good YouTube tutorial, I do well with those... Thank you, everyone! I appreciate all the advice 
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Sep 6, 2017 04:48
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Handing out compliments time!Shadin posted:Oh and here's some content. I'm testing the whole painting only with washes thing on Space Hulk. This is a WIP obviously: I like what you're doing here. The main suggestion I'd make is, try to move the washes around on the flat surfaces to avoid pooling (unless you're going for a more mottled look, which can work well on genestealers, so forget I said anything if that's what you're doing.) This is a really nice elfsperson you've done here. A very smooth coat on the cloak, with subtle but effective contrast.
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Sep 6, 2017 06:59
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Handing out compliments time! Hey, thanks. Yeah I was going more for the disgusting mottled look, though now I wonder if they'd look better cleaner. Might do a test one since I have a million of them to compare.
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Sep 6, 2017 14:23
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Are you priming white? Because, for whatever reason, people keep insisting that black is the only way to basecoat a model. Then they wonder why it's so hard to paint white or yellow.
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Sep 6, 2017 14:33
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berzerkmonkey posted:Because, for whatever reason, people keep insisting that black is the only way to basecoat a model. Then they wonder why it's so hard to paint white or yellow. I think it depends on how bright you want the finished model to be. Primers also serve different functions. Black primer leads to a darker overall look, and the darker recesses can help hide mistakes, but it can dull your brighter colors. White primer is excellent for bright, vibrant color schemes (like yellow), but doesn't always play nice with them (reds can develop a pink tone if not carefully tended, for instance). Grey is an obvious compromise, but not everyone likes it. Personally, I'm a huge fan of zenithal priming, but that's best accomplished with an airbrush (rattlecan zenithal priming is hard to pull off, thanks to how thick spray primers tend to be). With zenithal, you get nice dark shadows and bright highlights. You can also apply the zenithal method to painting itself, which is how I put down the base coats on this spoooOOOooky ghost: 
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Sep 6, 2017 15:07
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berzerkmonkey posted:Because, for whatever reason, people keep insisting that black is the only way to basecoat a model. Then they wonder why it's so hard to paint white or yellow. I painted all my Howling Griffons over black, with a brush.  But in all seriousness, I recently discovered Grey Primer and it's changed my life. Colors go on easier, details are easier to see, less coats required. Don't prime black. Also, not really a miniature post but I finally caved and bought some paint racks and organized my desk. Oh, the space. THE SPACE. 
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Sep 6, 2017 15:49
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That's a sexy desk setup~ Which racks did you get?
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Sep 6, 2017 16:18
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I'm so jealous of that painting table as I look at my paints strewn all over my computer desk and my models sat in the windowsill trying not to get trod on by the cat.
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Sep 6, 2017 16:19
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When I prime white, I give everything except skin a black wash before starting the base coats. This acts a bit like zenithal priming, and brings out details that flat primer sometimes obscures. Flesh gets a purple wash.
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Sep 6, 2017 16:20
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:When I prime white, I give everything except skin a black wash before starting the base coats. This acts a bit like zenithal priming, and brings out details that flat primer sometimes obscures. Same except with grey primer instead. Depending on base coat I may wash with drakenhoff nightshade instead of black, as I find after covering it with a thin base layer it shows through a bit less. I'll prime black if a model is primarily black, otherwise grey for everything.
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Sep 6, 2017 16:35
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richyp posted:Same except with grey primer instead. Depending on base coat I may wash with drakenhoff nightshade instead of black, as I find after covering it with a thin base layer it shows through a bit less. I used to prime black and then do a heavy drybrush of white over the whole thing to pick out details. I stopped doing that after a while when I realized that was taking more effort than just straight priming grey, and then I discovered zenithal and haven't looked back since. Now if I could just come up with a way to locate all the mold lines on a given model *before* putting primer on it.... (This happens incredibly frequently with Bones models, because removing all the mold lines from them is basically impossible. It's the one thing that's dampening my urge to get started on Ma'aldrakar, which is like three cubic feet of potential mold lines )
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Sep 6, 2017 16:48
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Quidthulhu posted:That's a sexy desk setup~ Those black metal ones are Threshold from Target. I don't think they sell them any more. I grabbed those three on clearance. I need 2 more and can't find any. The wood one is from Ikea, it's a spice rack. Corrode posted:I'm so jealous of that painting table as I look at my paints strewn all over my computer desk and my models sat in the windowsill trying not to get trod on by the cat. This is what mine was up until yesterday. Literally couldn't see that desk, it was covered in paint, projects, boxes, etc. It used to be my computer desk, but I have a laptop so I put my PC away. I think i've trained my 2 cats well enough to know they're not allowed up there. Zuul, my oldest, doesn't even go by the desk. Nibbler, the younger one, kinda sorta goes near it, but runs when i tell her no. She has been grabbing bits out of my box as i'm putting stuff together though. Look at them. Plotting to knock over my miniatures.  Nah, they're actually pretty great. 
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Sep 6, 2017 16:56
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Zuul the Cat posted:Those black metal ones are Threshold from Target. I don't think they sell them any more. I grabbed those three on clearance. I need 2 more and can't find any. Jesus your cats are adorable. Mine mostly leave my models alone, and stay off the desk, though Oskar (one of my Siamese) did steal a Space Hulk Terminator to play with last week. Other than that the only issue is that if I leave my well uncovered, Oskar will absolutely stand up there and drink the paint water. Good thing model acrylics are non-toxic for kids.
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Sep 6, 2017 17:09
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Where'd you get the water container with the spring?
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Sep 6, 2017 17:54
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working mom posted:Where'd you get the water container with the spring? I got one at Michael's. Be forewarned, the aluminum dish got pinholes in it (I assume due to the paint water) so I now weight the bottom with rocks and use a ceramic water dish.
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Sep 6, 2017 18:02
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Dr. Gargunza posted:What you'll really want is something more like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017640RK?psc=1 It's from the same company, and also relatively cheap, but you'll get better use out of it. I'm gonna buy this for priming and terrain stuff. Yes/no?
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Sep 6, 2017 18:13
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Download the citadel paint app on the 16th, you could win every base, shade and layer!
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Sep 6, 2017 18:21
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Cat Face Joe posted:I'm gonna buy this for priming and terrain stuff. Yes/no? Yes. I've got that exact set. Compressor has lasted me something like 3 years now. I've gone through a couple of the airbrushes, but they're $26 so I don't really bother cleaning them particularly well, and if one breaks I just buy a new one (it's me I'm the bad with money person)
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Sep 6, 2017 18:23
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Cat Face Joe posted:I'm gonna buy this for priming and terrain stuff. Yes/no? I've got it, and it works great for basecoats. Well worth the $100. I do clean mine, and have had only one problem, and that was due to bad paint.
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Sep 6, 2017 18:24
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Cat Face Joe posted:I'm gonna buy this for priming and terrain stuff. Yes/no? I don't have that airbrush, but I do have one of their compressors and it's been working great.
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Sep 6, 2017 18:35
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Zuul the Cat posted:I painted all my Howling Griffons over black, with a brush. You have paint's out than I do   Also the sooner I get a display case the sooner I can clear some space off my desk to actually paint. I've already filled a few shelves off to the left of the hovel with painted crap. Also I have to keep all my paints and poo poo away from inquisitive young hands, which means boxing everything up at the end of each session. (Also just noticed I really need to cut the lawn :/)
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Sep 6, 2017 19:07
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Booley posted:Yes. I've got that exact set. Compressor has lasted me something like 3 years now. I've gone through a couple of the airbrushes, but they're $26 so I don't really bother cleaning them particularly well, and if one breaks I just buy a new one (it's me I'm the bad with money person) berzerkmonkey posted:I've got it, and it works great for basecoats. Well worth the $100. I do clean mine, and have had only one problem, and that was due to bad paint. Shadin posted:I don't have that airbrush, but I do have one of their compressors and it's been working great.  No more playing on bare mdf for us!
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Sep 6, 2017 19:51
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Booley posted:(it's me I'm the bad with money person) You post in the Miniatures Painting thread, so we already knew that, hth.
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Sep 6, 2017 20:02
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richyp posted:You have paint's out than I do That's what mine would look like if I still had my PC out. Also, i don't have any kids yet (just cats) so i'm lucky. Below my desk is a 3 drawer bin that I keep all my spare bits and sprues in, as well as random miniature projects and models i've painted, some basing material, etc. Luckily my lady is pretty patient, cause my hobby usually creeps out of my designated hobby space (like the box of Talons of the Emperor sitting on my floor in front of my desk.) This is fun. More of you should post your paint stations (cats optional).
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Sep 6, 2017 20:13
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Merton Blask posted:
I love your glowcrons, gimmicky as they are. I really want to do something similar, but as I'm using clear bases I can't put the battery there. Do you know if it's realistic to find a battery you can model inside a primaris size mans? Edit: Just looked at your blog. Are you just using a vacuum chamber and no pressure? Most people seem to be doing the opposite, but it seems to work well. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Sep 6, 2017 |
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Sep 6, 2017 20:44
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That bloody mary looks delicious.
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Sep 6, 2017 20:52
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