|
VelociBacon posted:The 67 WLF also flips the image just to be clear. But you can get prisms for the pentax. Yeah true, you can also get prisms for the Hasselblad. But generally the P67 is used with the prism and the Hasselblad is used with the WLF.
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2017 08:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 04:22 |
|
|
Helicity posted:Is the weight difference like "oh gently caress this is heavy I hate this"? Do the 67s tend to need repairs, and are they easy to find repairs for? Part of the reason I'm looking at a new MF camera is that I'm getting anxious that the RF on my Mamiya 7 will knock out of alignment or something else will break - and repairs don't seem to be super feasible (and rangefinder MFs in general just don't "feel" right to me). The removable prism on my 6x6 Kiev 60 is almost 450g. It's a big chunk of glass, so it's going to be heavy as gently caress.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2017 10:35
|
|
|
Yes I am the other goon who shoots the hasselblad while goon VelociBacon shoots pentax. I also had a pentax in the past. The hasselblad is around 3lb, while the pentax is closer to 5lb with the standard lens. The pentax is just like a big slr, the hasselblad is an slr but it's a different shooting experience because of the ergonomics. The hasselblad is not metered. (mine isn't, at least). You will need a handheld meter. The Pentax has a pentaprism with a meter in it, which is quite accurate. The hasselblad is a leaf shutter, and can flash sync at any shutter speed, unlike the Pentax's 1/30 flash sync speed. However, the hasselblad maxes out at 1/500 shutterspeed, while the pentax gets up to 1/1000. I prefer the ergonomics of the hasselblad for extended shooting. It's light, carrying it diagonally with a strap is comfortable, and the viewfinder is enormous and very bright. The hasselblad is fully mechanical. Many old camera repair guys can still fix them. The pentax is partially electronic, and only a few camera repair guys will fix them. No comments to the pentax normal lens quality as I did not own one with my pentax. The hasselblad normal lens (80mm f2.8) is stunningly good.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2017 10:35
|
|
|
After shooting with a Hasselblad for years and having a 67 for six months now I think the only thing I miss about the Hasselblad is the actual way it feels in your hand when shooting. I haven't even put a roll through the Hassy since I've bought the 67. I wish the 67 had just some semblance of a grip for the right hand. I thought I would want the wood grip but after shooting with a friends it really doesn't add anything to the experience. In fact it seems to get in the way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2017 17:07
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:hit mirror lockup, turn the dial into the space between X and 1000, and fire with your hand. this holds the shutter open until you move the dial back onto an actual speed. if you're worried about shake, put your hand in front of the lens before you fire the shutter Thanks, I'll give this a whirl for the time being. Helen Highwater posted:You can also get friction releases that screw into the shutter button. I have an old Russian one where you tighten or loosen it to get a longer or shorter timer, then it fires the camera once the spring is released. A timed release is exactly what I'm looking for. My wife is complaining that I'm not in any pictures. What would I search for to get one of those Russian cables? akadajet posted:I use a generic cable release from amazon and it works great. I may pick one of these up if I can't find some sort of remote or timed release. I enjoy using the 67 so much that it is my go to camera now. I have giant banana hands and am built like a gorilla, so it feels right to me. I just got back from a 7000+ mile motorcycle trip to Montana/Washington/Oregon/California and used it the whole time. My dad called me an idiot for carrying such a beast, but I just love the thing. The Mamiya C330 comes in second, with my xt1 a close 3rd. I'd really like to try a Hasselblad someday!
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2017 21:20
|
|
|
Choicecut posted:A timed release is exactly what I'm looking for. My wife is complaining that I'm not in any pictures. What would I search for to get one of those Russian cables? It's not a cable, it looks like this.  You turn the knob at the top to adjust the tension, screw it into the shutter release and then push the spring-loaded button out of the locked position. After a few seconds (0 to ~25s) it releases and pushes a spike into the shutter release. The text on the case says 'avtospusk' which is just Russian for self-timer. If you search eBay for 'mechanical self-timer' there are a bunch of similar ones.
|
|
#
?
Aug 6, 2017 21:56
|
|
|
Helen Highwater posted:It's not a cable, it looks like this. poo poo yeah dude, this is exactly what I'm looking for. All kinds of options on eBay. Thanks for info!
|
|
#
?
Aug 7, 2017 01:14
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 8, 2017 04:56
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 9, 2017 08:06
|
|
|
Hell yes
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2017 04:01
|
|
|
awesome sludge tank
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2017 19:46
|
|
|
I'm always really impressed by the photos posted in this thread, but Sludge, your stuff is loving outstanding. The wet plate stuff is really cool man.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2017 01:34
|
|
|
Your use of Hipstamatic filters has reached next level, nice work dude.
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2017 03:18
|
|
|
elgarbo posted:Your use of Hipstamatic filters has reached next level, nice work dude. You know you're getting somewhere when your actual photos almost get as many instagram likes as the photos of your cameras
|
|
#
?
Aug 11, 2017 14:20
|
|
|
Sludge Tank posted:You know you're getting somewhere when your actual photos almost get as many instagram likes as the photos of your cameras You know you are getting somewhere when your photos get as many likes as snapshots of your dog (I'm getting nowhere)
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2017 06:19
|
|
|
owns
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2017 21:38
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 00:35
|
|
|
 Edit: unrelated to above, but what if any reasons would there be for scouring eBay for a $4-500 field camera (like a lower-end Toyo or better-condition Graflex) vs ordering an Intrepid 4x5? I'm not looking to go all-in on LF, but the urban locations I've been shooting would be better captured with a camera that can shift for perspective correction. Edit 2: And how about a take on this? What would someone do with this? Large format hand-held street photography? Not much in the way of movements and probably not very usable stopped down except in very bright light. Defeating the purpose of the format? Insanely awesome? Would you want one? SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Aug 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2017 04:46
|
|
|
 
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2017 22:52
|
|
|
born to tilt riverside
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2017 00:20
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 03:52
|
|
|
when this first loaded my mind interpreted that plant as the outline of a figure skater. maybe I need more coffee. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 21, 2017 14:51
|
|
|
Holyshit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 00:32
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2017 12:55
|
|
|
trying to get back into the swing of things, this year has been pretty bad for getting out and taking photos 
|
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2017 18:30
|
|
|
This might be a stretch but do any of you guys have any tips or hacks on fixing light traps in old wooden film holders? Any tutorials or anything online? It's a 100+ year old Korona plate holder so getting it replaced is drat near impossible unless one comes up for sale by some chance. I tried doing the load/unload under dark cloth thing and still no bueno, its pretty bad.
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 00:13
|
|
|
Do they leak with the darkslide in or only when it's removed? if the latter then, pull the darkslide out until it clears the frame and make a notch in it at that point so that you can tell how far to remove it without removing it completely. I've seen some people suggest washing the felt with a little bit of water and laundry soap on a brush then squeezing it all out a few times. Sometimes that restores the pile and gets rid of any crud that might have got attached to the felt. Is simply replacing the felt an option?
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 00:44
|
|
|
Replacing the felt seems like the only viable option I think. It's just a very delicate woodworking job. It's a 12x20 inch holder and the dark slide is colourbond steel which is very heavy so just leaving it part ways in is pretty much out of the question. If I could remove the plinth or whatever it is I could assess the felt but I think it's glued together and there's tiny little cobbler's nails as well as flat head screws that won't budge without some woodworking know how. E: i did a test by turning the lights out and looking through the front standard while running my phone torch up wnd down the strip of the slide slot. It is a pretty catastrophic leak. The fogging on this plate is worst along the top and bottom but the whole plate is fogged to some extent  Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Aug 27, 2017 |
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 01:07
|
|
|
 crystal ridge II used so much tilt to get that fence, which was like 5ft in front of me, in focus that the the foreground lawn is barely out of focus 
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 04:46
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 05:42
|
|
|
I bought some positive paper and gave one of my view cameras a go. It was a bit of a hack from start to finish, it's a 1930 Ihagee Fotoklapp Duplex with ~6x9 holders so I had to cut the 5x4 sheets down to size and load the holders inside my darkbag, then I developed them in a Paterson tank using Tetenal and Rapidfix. As you can see the results are less than overwhelming. How can I get more sharpness? Is it a development issue, an exposure problem or is it inherent to the paper? I used Harman FB glossy paper which I developed for 2 minutes in a 1+9 Tetenal mix, washed and then fixed in 1+4 Rapidfix for a minute. I was at the sharpest focus possible and I used an 8s exposure at f/11. My lightmeter doesn't go down to ISO 3 but it indicated a 1/4s exposure at ISO 100 so I just counted down five stops. The left hand image was a 12s exposure to account for reciprocity. It looks as though the exposure wasn't too far off on all three as the histogram is hosed at both ends.  Ihagee001.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Aug 27, 2017 21:42
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2017 00:10
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2017 09:24
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2017 13:23
|
|
|
  
|
|
#
?
Sep 2, 2017 16:23
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2017 23:58
|
|
|
Don't really know if this question could really be answered for sure unless you owned one of the lenses, but could I get away with a 90/8 Super Angulon or Fujinon SW (both 216mm image circle) and have enough rise for corrections like this: Northwest Armory by Isaac Sachs, on Flickrthis:  5 by Krzysztof Sienkiewicz, on Flickror this:  Yew Tee by alkanphel, on FlickrThe last one especially seems like a long shot. If the answer is 'no' for most of these, hopefully a Rodenstock Grandson-N 90/6.8 (221mm) will do. They're a little more expensive, but still less than the Nikkor 90/8. The Nikkor is nicest and has the best coverage of course (230mm), but I'd rather be cheap; I'm just dipping my toes into 4x5. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Sep 7, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2017 05:24
|
|
|
Well can sort of be answered. The Rodenstock will probably be fine stopped down to working apertures (f/22 or deeper) both them and Schneider tended to be quite conservative in their official measurement of the image circle because of possible loss of resolution at the edges and corners that no sane person would ever notice. For instance I owned a Schneider 240mm that technically only just covered 8x10 but I never ran out of image with modest movements.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2017 06:38
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2017 09:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 04:22 |
|
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 00:59
|
|