|
I'm using Army Painter silver primer right now for my Convergence and it's been just fine
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 18:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 18:36 |
|
|
In my experience, Army Painter is usually of middling quality. Why would you use anything they make when Vallejo, Reaper, and Scale75 exist? Even for washes, I'd probably go with Secret Weapon instead. (Plus Tamiya for primer and Testors for varnish, if you like.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 19:04
|
|
|
I don't own an airbrush e: in regards to Army Painter's primers, that is, dunno why you'd use anything else except maybe their washes S.J. fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Sep 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 19:07
|
|
|
S.J. posted:I don't own an airbrush I don't especially like their primers. They're too gritty.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 19:19
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:I don't especially like their primers. They're too gritty. See, I had the opposite problem - the paint was so smooth that subsequent coats slid right off like I had coated the models with Armor-All.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 19:34
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:I don't especially like their primers. They're too gritty. If you can find me a decent silver or gold primer in a rattle can that isn't Army Painter I'll take it
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 19:43
|
|
|
Retributor Armor works pretty good, but takes 2 coats. It's also very finnicky, you can't just spray it whenever (as i learned since my Contemptor ended up being all frosted). But if you spray it in the right conditions, it looks amazing.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 19:46
|
|
|
Zuul the Cat posted:Retributor Armor works pretty good, but takes 2 coats. It's also very finnicky, you can't just spray it whenever (as i learned since my Contemptor ended up being all frosted). But if you spray it in the right conditions, it looks amazing. Sorry yeah that's the only thing I could find other than AP that didn't suck. But gently caress spending almost 30 dollars a can on that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 19:47
|
|
|
Cross-posting one of my Tzeentch marked Chaos Warriors with blessings of the Mould Line Lord. 4 more of these blue bastards are ready to join him in their holy basing ceremony soon. Chuffed the wet-blending worked on the banner as I usually shy away from it in favour of sloppy layering.  Proper pictures with his buddies probably tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 21:19
|
|
|
Hahaha my bad. It's armory like other people mentioned. I switched to Rust-Oleum 2x matte primer which is cheaper and have sprayed it in the middle of summer and during 10 below temps in the winter with no fuzz. berzerkmonkey posted:See, I had the opposite problem - the paint was so smooth that subsequent coats slid right off like I had coated the models with Armor-All. Make sure to clean models super good because if there is a tiny armpit with a bit of release agent, it will unzip everything else if that let's do. Dishsoap mixes, tooth brush, and simple green bathes. The primer I mentioned bites into metal and plastic well so even if I miss a small part with release agent, only that part will flake off. EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Sep 11, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 22:02
|
|
|
richyp posted:Cross-posting one of my Tzeentch marked Chaos Warriors with blessings of the Mould Line Lord. 4 more of these blue bastards are ready to join him in their holy basing ceremony soon. That is some super tight blending
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 22:38
|
|
|
richyp posted:Cross-posting one of my Tzeentch marked Chaos Warriors with blessings of the Mould Line Lord. 4 more of these blue bastards are ready to join him in their holy basing ceremony soon. Looks aces! I really like it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2017 22:47
|
|
|
richyp posted:Cross-posting one of my Tzeentch marked Chaos Warriors with blessings of the Mould Line Lord. 4 more of these blue bastards are ready to join him in their holy basing ceremony soon. Jesus Christ, that's fantastic blending work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 04:28
|
|
|
EVIL Gibson posted:Hahaha my bad. It's armory like other people mentioned. That double coverage poo poo is the most consistently excellent primer I've ever used.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 04:59
|
|
|
Army Painter spray primer is what I use exclusively for everything. I've used five or six colors of it and it's always been fine. The only other primer I've used is Citadel, and that is awful in comparison. I've never used any of their other products, though. Also, I just got a desk-mounted magnifying glass lamp. Holy poo poo. I see everything. I feel like I've been painting blind until now. Time to visit the optometrist. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 10:31
|
|
|
I use Army Painter for undercoat. Generally no issues, I did once have a slightly gritty finish from a black spray but not had any issues from the colour ones (so far I've used their leather brown, both yellows, dragon red and plate mail). The exception is their white, that always seems to give me trouble with being gritty instead of smooth. Not sure if it's just a lot more sensitive to humidity etc. than the others?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 10:58
|
|
|
R0ckfish posted:I have my first squad of Salamanders almost done, need to clean up the rims but I feel tired so that is for later. These are Fantastic, Could I get your green method please? i've been after something for my son who's also a sally player, that really pops! Thanks
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 11:38
|
|
|
Salamanders are a nice symbol to try free-handing with. You can get away with a bit as long as you've got the shape down and its sufficiently spiky and correcting it is super forgiving. Trying to do Imperial Fists is what got me to start buying 3d-printed insignias because you need a circle, the segmented fist pattern, plus the fingers and while I was able to do a few passably it took waaay too long. I couldn't do the Maltese Cross at all despite it being a bunch of simple geometric shapes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 11:58
|
|
|
Der Waffle Mous posted:I couldn't do the Maltese Cross at all despite it being a bunch of simple geometric shapes. I found an easy way to do the cross was to do a large + draw v's on the ends of each line, then connect each of the 2 points on the v to the middle of the cross. Fill in with light grey and white to taste. Like in my amazing ms paint here: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 12:11
|
|
|
Der Waffle Mous posted:Salamanders are a nice symbol to try free-handing with. You can get away with a bit as long as you've got the shape down and its sufficiently spiky and correcting it is super forgiving. For Imperial Fists I think you could get away with just drawing the black power fist
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 13:16
|
|
|
Immanentized posted:Jesus Christ, that's fantastic blending work. w00tmonger posted:That is some super tight blending Thanks, it was 3 stripes of colour layed down in a row, with the largest section being the blue at the top to middle, then purple in the middle to almost bottom and then the lowest part pink. Then I just went ape-poo poo dragging the paint backwards and forwards over the joins until it looked reasonably smooth, recesses hit with a wash of a dark blue, then some manual highlights added to the edges and tips. Here he is with his   They don't subtly mix in with the others, and with how much Khorne hates Tzeentch and the sheer amount of red they'd better be good at magic. Also Lego Joker will probably gently caress them up anyway. (Been a busy month)
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 13:18
|
|
|
richyp posted:Thanks, it was 3 stripes of colour layed down in a row, with the largest section being the blue at the top to middle, then purple in the middle to almost bottom and then the lowest part pink. Then I just went ape-poo poo dragging the paint backwards and forwards over the joins until it looked reasonably smooth, recesses hit with a wash of a dark blue, then some manual highlights added to the edges and tips. Here he is with his Listen, I don't personally go for chaos because mostly makes me  in the same way that screamo metal does. But that's such a lovely riot of colors that I find myself liking their spikey putrid silliness.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 14:08
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:In my experience, Army Painter is usually of middling quality. Why would you use anything they make when Vallejo, Reaper, and Scale75 exist? Even for washes, I'd probably go with Secret Weapon instead. (Plus Tamiya for primer and Testors for varnish, if you like.) I've had decent results with Army Painter, but admittedly that's been mostly through an airbrush and then using their metallics and washes with actual brushes. However, I'm a paint junkie and am now looking to try some Vallejo Model Color since I've never used it before.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 15:10
|
|
|
richyp posted:Thanks, it was 3 stripes of colour layed down in a row, with the largest section being the blue at the top to middle, then purple in the middle to almost bottom and then the lowest part pink. Then I just went ape-poo poo dragging the paint backwards and forwards over the joins until it looked reasonably smooth, recesses hit with a wash of a dark blue, then some manual highlights added to the edges and tips. Here he is with his This is easily the best looking Chaos force I've ever seen. I love the plethora of colors, and how it all ties together, but each faction is visibly distinct. So, when are you gonna paint up an Archaon?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 15:23
|
|
|
EVIL Gibson posted:Make sure to clean models super good because if there is a tiny armpit with a bit of release agent, it will unzip everything else if that let's do.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 15:24
|
|
|
I've had AP Primer fall off in flakes off a model but then I suspect I didn't clean the resin release agent well enough despite going at it twice. Need to try and see what happens with the GW primers later just to see if I do need to try to clean them a third time or not.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 16:10
|
|
|
Yeah I had that on some resin objective markers. Only the back side though. I suspect I just didn't clean it off enough. I did have one weird interaction on another resin figure, using the plate mail spray. Again I suspect I didn't get enough of the release agent off. Anyway, it reacted with the surface and created a kind of thin rubbery coating around the mini which washes didn't adhere to well (they kind of just flowed off as it was covered in soap). I suspect it would just peel off if I tried. Never had that happen before (admittedly I don't do much with resin).
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 16:24
|
|
|
Cooked Auto posted:I've had AP Primer fall off in flakes off a model but then I suspect I didn't clean the resin release agent well enough despite going at it twice. Need to try and see what happens with the GW primers later just to see if I do need to try to clean them a third time or not. Army Painter primer has some lovely colors, but should be applied over actual primer because it likes to chip and flake like a motherfucker. AP bottle paints are mostly garbage, but I like their Crystal Blue and Angel Green - every other color of theirs I've used has been garbo. GW primers have been great in my experience, but I've only used Macragge Blue.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 16:51
|
|
|
I ran by the LGS on lunch and they had a huge selection of Vallejo Model Color, but practically every one looked like poo poo in a bottle. I shook the hell out of one but it only helped a little, is this something I should worry about if I buy into a set of them?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 19:20
|
|
|
Just put agitators in your paint bottles. I use hematite beads. They work great.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 19:40
|
|
|
SRM posted:Army Painter primer has some lovely colors, but should be applied over actual primer because it likes to chip and flake like a motherfucker. AP bottle paints are mostly garbage, but I like their Crystal Blue and Angel Green - every other color of theirs I've used has been garbo. GW primers have been great in my experience, but I've only used Macragge Blue. Go figure. Had some luck with AP Primer on GW figures but apparently the Raging Heroes resin is made of very different stuff or something because that's the only time the primer has ever flaked on me.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 19:46
|
|
|
melonfish posted:These are Fantastic, Could I get your green method please? i've been after something for my son who's also a sally player, that really pops! The way I have been doing them is really only doable with a airbrush, you would go insane otherwise: black primer with a ghetto zenithal of waagh flesh (essentially entirely over model, but a little lighter from below, say 3-4 quick passes vs 2-3), followed by 2-3 passes of warpstone glow from 45 degrees up (not quite solid warpstone just a few shades back from it). Recess shade of nuln oil, edge highlight of moot green with a few extreme points of yriel yellow.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 20:43
|
|
|
I've used a lot of Army Painter (bought their mega set when I first started) and other than the matte white and matte black being way too thick, I've never had an issue with using them. You do have to shake the ever-loving poo poo out of them, but it's no worse than Scale75.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2017 21:00
|
|
|
Just about used up the last of this can of primer manufactured in 1998 to prime a Necron Monolith. It spit a little bit but I'm surprised how well it worked after sitting a garage for a few years and many more between uses. My general idea with the monolith is to edge highlighting in blue with highlights almost to white while leaving a lot of black. Maybe do some "dripping" blue into the panels. Then do the machinery looking parts in gold. A poor cell pic of what I've done so far:  These guys have the general theme:  Has anyone seen any great looking painted monoliths? Google image search turned up a lot of terrible ones.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 02:47
|
|
|
I was in HobbyTown and they had a Vallejo Mecha airbrush paint. Does anyone have any experience with these?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 02:47
|
|
|
Been working on my boy here, sorry for the tablet images:  I've been trying really hard to keep the lines clean and shade him properly. I was going to paint the silver bits gold to match the rest of the army, but I decided to keep him closer to how he is depicted everywhere else. Every model is a new challenge.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 03:06
|
|
|
Zuul the Cat posted:I painted all my Howling Griffons over black, with a brush. What brand is the paint rack?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 03:40
|
|
But in all seriousness, I recently discovered Grey Primer and it's changed my life. Colors go on easier, details are easier to see, less coats required. Don't prime black. 
|
pbpancho posted:What brand is the paint rack? No idea, I got it off of eBay and it came from China. I got it from This seller. It was a pain in the rear end to put together because it comes with no instructions, but it was pretty cheap!
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 03:44
|
|
|
R0ckfish posted:The way I have been doing them is really only doable with a airbrush, you would go insane otherwise: black primer with a ghetto zenithal of waagh flesh (essentially entirely over model, but a little lighter from below, say 3-4 quick passes vs 2-3), followed by 2-3 passes of warpstone glow from 45 degrees up (not quite solid warpstone just a few shades back from it). Recess shade of nuln oil, edge highlight of moot green with a few extreme points of yriel yellow. Wow, ok so that's something, Never too early to teach a 10 year old to airbrush mind, i'll have to pick him up a respirator  cheers, if all else fails i can at least show him how to drybrush this, he's still working on neatness but is doing quite well so far, he loves his salamanders and he utterly adored your guys. thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 13:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 18:36 |
|
|
Skails posted:Has anyone seen any great looking painted monoliths? Google image search turned up a lot of terrible ones. Den of Imagination has some cool Red Glow and Rusty Necrons. The OSL is really nice. If you want to deal with Pintrest Zuul the Cat posted:No idea, I got it off of eBay and it came from China. I got it from This seller. It was a pain in the rear end to put together because it comes with no instructions, but it was pretty cheap! berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Sep 13, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2017 13:27
|
|