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1) no idea, my ancient floor jack keeps on kicking despite all the abuse I throw at it. 2) I've generally heard good things about flexzilla hoses. I've seen them in the background of a few ave vids now and I personally have some of their extension cords which feel rather skookum.
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Sep 3, 2017 00:30
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1) Well, a WJ only weighs 2 tons anyway, and you're not jacking it all at once, so I always got on just fine with my Clarke "long chassis" 2T trolley jack, that does from 6" to 26". Not sure what the US equivalent is, but unless you're doing commercial vehicles, I'd say 2T's enough for most purposes. 2) Can you not re-lay they whole length of the reel you have with new hose? That's probably cheaper than buying a new unit.
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Sep 3, 2017 00:34
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If you theres a chance you will ever work on a low car id think about a low profile because if you need one its a pain in the rear end if you dont have one.
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Sep 3, 2017 00:48
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I haven't torn into the reel yet but I suspect the air hose is crimped into it. It's a giant enclosed plastic unit. Let's put it this way - it costs $30 less than the equivalent length auto-retract hose from Harbor Freight. It is literally the cheapest auto-retract 50' hose reel on the market. And on weight, I probably would be fine with a 2 ton jack, but all of those I'm finding have even lower lift heights than my Arcan. DogonCrook posted:If you theres a chance you will ever work on a low car id think about a low profile because if you need one its a pain in the rear end if you dont have one. The jacks I have get under anything reasonably low no problem, even my old Mazdaspeed3. Edit: So far all I've come up with that looks interesting is the Harbor Freight Daytona, which I should be able to get for $173 after a 20% off coupon and tax, or a Sunex 6602LP which proves me wrong about low profile, 2 ton jacks  Should be $190 after shipping (or I find something else to get free shipping).
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 01:03
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I have the Daytona and it's pretty nice. Low, but gets very high and the action on it is pretty good. Heavy as gently caress though, so I still end up using my lovely 1.5 alu jack about half the time.
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Sep 3, 2017 02:27
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Boys who love boys
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HF 20% coupons exclude floor jacks. You might be able to flirt your way through checkout, but it depends on the day.
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Sep 3, 2017 05:15
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Good to know. There's a coupon specifically for it for $180 at least. I also found a YouTube video claiming that the hose reel I have actually can be disassembled, so I might take mine apart and see about just replacing the hose. Edit: confirmed. Surprising that it is indeed replaceable, but not going to complain. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Sep 3, 2017 |
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Sep 3, 2017 05:21
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um excuse me posted:I use a blackvue dr650s-2ch. Hides behind the profile of the mirror, has a dedicated rear view camera, 1080p (front only), good night imaging, cloud and wifi support, and comes with a decently working phone app. The only particularly bad think I've noticed is that it constantly runs hot to the touch. I think it corrupted one of my memory cards. But I also think it does that to keep the windshield defrosted for continuous clear vision. Also has support for a motion sensitive and accelerometer sensitive parking mode so it doesn't ruin the battery. There are cheaper units but I haven't heard of one that's actually better. IOwnCalculus posted:There's a dashcam thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3597215 Etrips posted:There is a dash cam thread! Deeters posted:Anyone have a suggestion for an Android app that tracks gas mileage? I used to use Fuelly, but that's pretty much been abandoned. Their replacement also looks abandoned. Fuel.io doesn't do tenths of a mile.
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Sep 7, 2017 21:18
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loving killer deal right now on kick-rear end cookware. CUISINART 12-Piece Stainless Steel Cookware Set, Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENI26B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M65Tzb2CTP2XV
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Sep 12, 2017 09:47
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Not sure if it fits the thread, but serious question: What's so good about that one and why is it so pricey in the first place? I got the multiclad cuisinart years ago, and that's only $230 a set normal price, eg https://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-MC...05212106&sr=1-6 I didn't buy the set, I ended up buying individually as it was cheaper freight to AU and I could pick and choose, ie buy larger sizes of things like a 12" frypan, 4qt saucepan.
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Sep 12, 2017 11:32
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Looks like a good deal for what it is but glass lids are a deal breaker. I bought a 7 piece set of SS cookware with a thick sandwich bottom when I first went on my own as a teenager over 20 years ago now. To this day, that is our primary cookware set and still drat near looks new.
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Sep 12, 2017 15:42
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whats wrong with glass lids?
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Sep 12, 2017 15:59
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Heat limitations e: 350F is pretty standard for them and really not that hot for an oven. I've heard of them breaking lower if they are used often.
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Sep 12, 2017 16:01
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huh well i guess i can't ever remember using glass lids inside an oven at any point, only on the stove and really not that often either
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Sep 12, 2017 16:08
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I've still got most of my first set which is over 25 years old, there's been a couple of pieces ruined, I think the smaller saucepan got trashed by my fault and lid went bang, also the 4qt handle broke. They were glass lids, alu thick base like the ones wasabi the J linked, nothing really wrong with the dutch oven/stockpot, steamer, 10" saute/skillet and other pieces. But when I wanted to upgrade and get new saucepans I just bought multiclad, ss lids, induction compatible like the ones I linked because they can pretty much do anything and last even longer. E: I still use the old set dutch oven and skillet with glass lids a lot though, but I wouldn't buy them again due to the failure of other pieces in the set and also they're not induction compatible. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 16:42
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Wasabi the J posted:loving killer deal right now on kick-rear end cookware. Why is it a killer deal? Camelx3 shows that it's been out of the market for a while and the price from a couple years ago is about the same as now...
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Sep 12, 2017 17:16
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EVERYWHERE 
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Seminal Flu posted:Why is it a killer deal? Camelx3 shows that it's been out of the market for a while and the price from a couple years ago is about the same as now... Hmm maybe I misremembered, but that's still a pretty good deal for a multiclad set. I've baked with glass lids a bunch of times. I highly doubt Cuisinart used crappy glass that would crack or explode.
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Sep 13, 2017 14:07
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Question for you guys, I need to replace the wheel bearings in my Maxima. I've already bought the replacement hubs and bearings, but I'm going to need a shop press to separate and install the bearings in the hub. I'm tempted to just buy a 20 ton press from horror fraught, but I don't want to dedicate that kind of floor space to one, especially since I'm not sure how often I would actually use it. Would a 6 ton benchtop press work? Or is this something I'm better off just finding a local shop to do? I never thought I'd be in a situation where I'm questioning the necessity of a new tool, but here we are 
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Sep 13, 2017 20:09
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A press is one of the tools you dont realise you needed till you have one. I mean theres usually a way to avoid needing one, but its always more frustrating. And it feels good doing it right and just bam job done. If you have a welder it isnt hard to make a good one yourself on the cheap with parts from a hydraulic store either. E:also burning out bushings and getting popped with flaming molten rubber even one time that hospital bill would easily pay for a fancy press. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Sep 13, 2017 |
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Sep 13, 2017 20:29
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i'd just have a shop do it for now and if you find yourself needing to do it again soon maybe look into getting a press then?
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Sep 13, 2017 20:38
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OSU_Matthew posted:Question for you guys, I need to replace the wheel bearings in my Maxima. I've already bought the replacement hubs and bearings, but I'm going to need a shop press to separate and install the bearings in the hub. Real trick is finding a shop that will give you the time of day to do it (at least in these parts.) If you have that number, and you find it good...roll with it. Otherwise, don't dink around with the 6 ton press. And given the job you are looking at, factor in separating plates and other cobbled together stuff which adds to the cost. Not trying to dissuade you, but you mentioned floor space which is an important factor. And like a couple posts up, a press is awesome to have. But if a shop can knock it out cheap I would go that route.
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Sep 13, 2017 20:51
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Real trick is finding a shop that will give you the time of day to do it (at least in these parts.) If you have that number, and you find it good...roll with it. An actual machine shop vs. an auto shop helps here. Sometimes auto shops are weird about stuff like this, though sometimes they're very cool and will only charge you a few bucks.
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Sep 13, 2017 22:23
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Call around to shops about having it done. Place I used to work at would do them all the time, think it was around usually around $50 a pair. Edit: get a slide hammer and pull the hubs out of the bearings while they're still on the car. It's easy, and will make it cheaper to have a shop do the rest. Unsane fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 00:50
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Any recommendations on jack stands + a floor jack? What else do I need to safely lift my car up? Chocks?
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Sep 14, 2017 01:47
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How much of a jack do you need? I loved my Costco Arcan hybrid jack for most tasks, but the maximum lift height isn't enough for my Jeep. I ended up getting the Harbor Freight Daytona jack.
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Sep 14, 2017 02:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:How much of a jack do you need? I loved my Costco Arcan hybrid jack for most tasks, but the maximum lift height isn't enough for my Jeep. I ended up getting the Harbor Freight Daytona jack. I'm not exactly sure. This is my first time trying to work on my own car. I don't believe it should be much given it is a 4 door hatchback. Stock weight comes in at around 3,000lbs, so I guess a 2 ton floor jack should be sufficient? Though, I guess I should get a setup in case I need to do anything on my wife's Tundra...
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Sep 14, 2017 02:24
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Etrips posted:I'm not exactly sure. This is my first time trying to work on my own car. I don't believe it should be much given it is a 4 door hatchback. Stock weight comes in at around 3,000lbs, so I guess a 2 ton floor jack should be sufficient? Though, I guess I should get a setup in case I need to do anything on my wife's Tundra... The Harbour Freight aluminum floor jacks are actually really good quality, as are their jack stands. Fwiw.
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Sep 14, 2017 02:25
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Thanks for the input on the press! I'm fairly confident I'll be needing it again in the next few years on other cars, so I should probably just buy one since everything I'm seeing suggests about 50$ for this task. Is the HF 20 ton decent, or should I be looking at something else? HandlingByJebus posted:The Harbour Freight aluminum floor jacks are actually really good quality, as are their jack stands. Fwiw. Seconding this, I really love the rapid pump an high lift, definitely my favorite jack I've ever owned. The fit and finish feel nice as well. I've got some HF jack stands and they've done the job well enough, but I'll be damned if I don't feel squeamish every time I get under there, knowing full well that that the chineesium I'm trusting my life to is almost certainly high impurity recycled steel. Then again, I figure I've never heard of anyone dying a horrific death from their jack stands, so YMMV 
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Sep 14, 2017 02:59
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Is there a huge difference between "heavy duty steel" and aluminum?
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Sep 14, 2017 03:13
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It depends on how you plan on using it. If it will never leave your garage, I kind of prefer all steel since the extra weight actually seems to make it easier to push. My all-aluminum and part-aluminum jacks want to try and skate a bit where as the Daytona (heavy as gently caress) will just go right where I push it. But if you ever want to haul it elsewhere, aluminum is waaaaaay better.
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Sep 14, 2017 03:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:It depends on how you plan on using it. If it will never leave your garage, I kind of prefer all steel since the extra weight actually seems to make it easier to push. My all-aluminum and part-aluminum jacks want to try and skate a bit where as the Daytona (heavy as gently caress) will just go right where I push it. qft The Al units are called "racing" jacks because you can put them in your trunk without suffering a hernia.
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Sep 14, 2017 04:15
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Oh jeez, yea the difference between the two is about 50lbs.
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Sep 14, 2017 04:20
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Can confirm, have an old 80's steel jack and it is an utter pig to move around. This is partly why it gets left wherever I pull it when I finish working on it because god drat, I'm not hauling that fat gently caress up the street and up my 35° inclined driveway to put it away in the garage. Maybe if I'm lucky, the florida sun and humidity will rot out the seals and I can finally justify an aluminum jack.
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Sep 14, 2017 04:25
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I nearly died loading and unloading my heavy duty steel jack. It hasn't been off the ground more than an inch in about 4 years. I drag it through the driveway if I have to.
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Sep 14, 2017 04:31
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Id buy a set of the rhino gear ramps too since they are so cheap. Its easily worth $25 or whatever they go for.
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Sep 14, 2017 04:40
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OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks for the input on the press! I'm fairly confident I'll be needing it again in the next few years on other cars, so I should probably just buy one since everything I'm seeing suggests about 50$ for this task. Is the HF 20 ton decent, or should I be looking at something else? The HF 20 ton seems to be well regarded. It's on my list to pick up at some point. Remember to never pay full price for anything from HF http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/20+TON+SHOP+PRESS
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Sep 14, 2017 05:09
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Galler posted:The HF 20 ton seems to be well regarded. It's on my list to pick up at some point. Remember to never pay full price for anything from HF http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/20+TON+SHOP+PRESS Galler posted:The HF 20 ton seems to be well regarded. It's on my list to pick up at some point. Remember to never pay full price for anything from HF http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/20+TON+SHOP+PRESS Oh drat, this site is awesome! Way better than digging through the circulars in my inbox! Thanks for posting this! Speaking of never paying full price there, did anyone ever get anything from that class action settlement a few months back? I managed to submit mine online right before the deadline but I've never heard anything since and I figure it's probably a fifty fifty chance at best I'll see anything anyways.
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Sep 14, 2017 12:11
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I was looking at gear-drive engine stands last night, was debating getting one for an eventual build but they're kind of expensive. This seemed like a pretty slick idea if you've got a welder: https://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74486 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUJKwFE_NvE
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Sep 14, 2017 20:20
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That's pretty sweet. I almost dropped a Jeep 4.0 trying to turn it over with the head attached, that stand would probably just shrug off the lopsided load.
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Sep 14, 2017 20:29
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Unsane posted:Call around to shops about having it done. Place I used to work at would do them all the time, think it was around usually around $50 a pair. Thanks! Picked up an OTC 9 way slide hammer, so that should make things simpler. Instead of a shop press, I could use something like this front wheel bearing installer kit to pop the old one out and the new one into place, right? Also, what's the concensus on favorite high temp/high molybdenum grease?
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Sep 15, 2017 03:08
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