rear end posted:Before I waste my time arguing with the dealership, is there a way where they can physically check if the alternator is failing? Because I know they'll tell me to gently caress off if the message conveniently decides to not show up when I bring the car to them. Check to see what sort of juice is going back to the battery when it's running? Obviously, you're going to want to be careful with your ohmmeter or you'll end up frying it.
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Sep 13, 2017 21:39
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So this is probably a better thread for it but i mentioned in another one i dropped a wrench in my nss and my car died which doesnt make any sense. I just took a peek and sure enough its three bare wire splices right at the boot. It still works but thats what the wrench landed on. Is shorting that which would be starter relay, and tail lights enough to kill a car? Im going to wire up a new one but i want to make sure i dont need to keep looking.
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Sep 13, 2017 22:16
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DogonCrook posted:So this is probably a better thread for it but i mentioned in another one i dropped a wrench in my nss and my car died which doesnt make any sense. I just took a peek and sure enough its three bare wire splices right at the boot. It still works but thats what the wrench landed on. Is shorting that which would be starter relay, and tail lights enough to kill a car? Im going to wire up a new one but i want to make sure i dont need to keep looking. If one of the wires is power, and it is fed from the same wire as the coil, I suppose it's possible that shorting it briefly could starve the coil for current momentarily (enough to stall the motor) without blowing a fuse. But that's a lot of "if"s.
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Sep 13, 2017 22:50
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I'm trying to fix a vibration issue by replacing a motor mount-- supposedly a fairly common issue for the '10 Civic. I found a pretty straight forward video on the process the only part hanging me up is if there's any danger with jacking the engine by it's oil pan like the guy in the video does. I guess you're only doing it enough to de-load the hydraulics in the mount? Not enough to actually lift the car or risk denting/caving in the pan? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JxTINSwoaU&t=51s also, i didn't order a replacement of the metal bracket because it doubled the price of the part and i figured that metal portion doesn't really wear, it's whatever is inside of the rubber hydraulic part yeah? was just going to reuse the metal bracket Razzled fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Sep 13, 2017 |
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Sep 13, 2017 23:30
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Razzled posted:I'm trying to fix a vibration issue by replacing a motor mount-- supposedly a fairly common issue for the '10 Civic. Yeah thats how i do it and how i check them and ive never dented the pan. Its pretty easy to tell when you are about to start dragging the car with it.
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Sep 14, 2017 00:05
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Raluek posted:If one of the wires is power, and it is fed from the same wire as the coil, I suppose it's possible that shorting it briefly could starve the coil for current momentarily (enough to stall the motor) without blowing a fuse. But that's a lot of "if"s. Its on a fusable link and yeah i think it is fed from the coil. ill give it a look, thanks.
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Sep 14, 2017 00:11
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DogonCrook posted:Yeah thats how i do it and how i check them and ive never dented the pan. Its pretty easy to tell when you are about to start dragging the car with it.
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Sep 14, 2017 00:20
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I am currently between jobs and tried to minimize my monthly overhead by trading in my beloved truck for a daily driver that I could buy with cash. The truck was not payed for, but I had enough equity in it to walk out with a 2010 Ford Fusion and no more car payment. The Fusion seemed to be in good shape. 80,000 miles, manual transmission, no strange noises or smells (at first). I bought it last Friday, drove from Ann Arbor to Cleveland to visit some relatives, and then as I'm coming home today it went haywire, power steering went out, and a bunch of dashboard indicators lit up. Burning rubber smell and white smoke was pouring out the hood, and when I popped it I noticed the serpentine belt had flayed itself all over the engine compartment. The shop is going to call tomorrow with a diagnosis, my question is what kind of poo poo should I look out for? I doubt I'll get lucky and simply replacing the belt fixes it- I'm kind of expecting one of the components it drives is seizing up (AC compressor? Alternator?). I don't want to get hosed over by the shop so if anybody has some advice I can use to keep people honest it would be appreciated.
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Sep 14, 2017 01:17
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If something has seized, you can usually tell by hand, so if their diagnosis is that that's the issue, just ask them to show you the seized component. It's also possible that the tensioner let go, or simply that some road debris got caught in the belt. Hopefully it won't have trashed anything else in the process of the belt coming off. It's luck of the draw as much as anything.
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Sep 14, 2017 01:26
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Thanks friend.
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Sep 14, 2017 03:12
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rear end posted:2014 Charger. The alternator, which is being recalled by Chrysler but only for V6 engines which my car isn't although it's the exact same loving part, died 2 months ago. Replaced it. Recently it's been giving me the "battery saver mode" message which if I'm not mistaken means there's voltage drop. Now the new alternator has a 1 year warranty and the messages comes and goes. FWIW, a friend of mine went through this with her 2014 300. I think she's on her 9th or 10th alternator... with less than 35k miles. Hers IS the V6 (and likely the same part, or similar, as yours), but they didn't install the revised part until the last alternator replacement. It's been fine for a year now. She drove it straight to the dealer with "battery saver" showing several times, and they still swore up and down nothing was wrong (even when it finally died in the service bay with a dead battery). Good luck.  Bipolar Transistor posted:Brand new battery. Went flat in two days when not on at least a 2A charge. Flatlined on a 500mA trickle. Time to get a multimeter to and start pulling fuses... and looking for questionable wiring (and being an ex cop car, it'll be full of that). There's likely another fuse block in the trunk for all the communications equipment, a wire may be chaffed.
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Sep 14, 2017 03:55
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Stupid question. Car is 99 Nissan Altima. Mileage in the 260's. I have been looking on and off at other cars. That said a year or so back I went to get a quote on replacing the driver side automatic window engine/parts, because the window was being very slow and jerky when I used it. The guys at the shop took the door panel off, then put it back on in a way that none of the inside controls work (like the door lock). I lost my temper at them and haven't been back, mostly because I didn't trust them to fix it. So I've been using my remote and basic key to get around, but the remote just broke, and the company that makes this system is gone. So I was thinking of just going to another place and having them fix the window control and realign the inside of the door panel, so I can use the internal locks and poo poo again. That said, will I need to worry about my keys no longer unlocking the door from the outside? As in, will the main door lock be a different alignment than the internal lock fixtures so my keys won't open?
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Sep 14, 2017 14:06
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InitialDave posted:Yeah, it's fine, just take the weight of the engine off the mount. Yup. You might want to use a chunk of wood across the jack saddle to spread the load over a larger area of the pan, but it's probably not necessary. I'm guessing that Honda probably has a cast aluminum oil pan. If you've jacked up a car a few times, you'll notice very quickly that the amount of effort you need on a floor jack to lift the engine a bit is very low. You do want to be gentle with it, but pretty much any engine out there can rest on its own oil pan with no damage.
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Sep 14, 2017 14:42
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Cowslips Warren posted:Stupid question. I'm not sure if you're asking if the tumblers in the lock will no longer match your keys (that won't happen unless you ask a locksmith to rekey it) or if the lock itself will no longer line up with the hole in the door (that BETTER not happen, that'd be hosed up).
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Sep 14, 2017 16:08
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Any objections or specific things to check on this, planning to look after work today. A sideskirt is $150 on eBay. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/6302227138.html
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Sep 14, 2017 19:09
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Cowslips Warren posted:Stupid question. I guarantee they tore the panel off without disconnecting the buttons. The cable is VERY short - you have to pry the switches out of the door panel first (pries out at the front), then unplug it, and only then can you remove the panel. If you just tear the panel off, you rip the switch apart (ASK ME HOW I KNOW). Good news for you - a new switch is carried by parts stores and also by the dealers. Get ready to fork out about $120. It's a 10 minute job to replace. Pry the old one out first to confirm it's damaged - if it is, the pins will be bent all sorts of whacky directions instead of uniformly. If you're lucky, the switch will be in multiple pieces! The locks will not change. And even with the switch busted, you should be able to unlock all doors by twisting the key twice in the drivers door toward unlock. And locking all of them by twisting it once toward lock.
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Sep 14, 2017 19:12
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See if they have service history on the auto trans. They want more frequent fluid changes than the service manual says. I do our accords about every 30-40k.
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Sep 14, 2017 19:13
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Some service schedule questions: I just took a look at the service schedule on my girlfriend's Corolla and it says to tighten the drive shaft bolt drat near every oil change. WTF is this about? Are we going to die because it has never been (and probably never will be) done? Also I just bought a new Mazda 3 and the service schedule seems like it should have more in it. There is no mention of transmission fluid or shocks/struts, but a lot of tire rotations. I would like to keep this car for a long time so I assume that means that means maintaining the transmission slightly more often than never. But how often? First change relatively soon and longer intervals after? As for tire rotations, I realistically will not be doing that every oil change. Is there any detriment other than less than optimal tire lifespan? Are there any other preventative things I should do that aren't listed in the Mazda 3 manual?
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Sep 14, 2017 20:24
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If it's not listed in the manual, you probably don't need to do it. The manufacturers aren't actively trying to deceive you into ruining your car.
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Sep 14, 2017 20:34
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I need to paint to seal some rust, mostly a few select body panels like the seam between the floor pan where it meets the rear of the car. Is POR15 still the hotness, and how much should I get? I need seam sealer. What do I get? Also I need some weld-through primer. Recommendations?
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Sep 14, 2017 20:36
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I guarantee they tore the panel off without disconnecting the buttons. The cable is VERY short - you have to pry the switches out of the door panel first (pries out at the front), then unplug it, and only then can you remove the panel. If you just tear the panel off, you rip the switch apart (ASK ME HOW I KNOW). The thing is, and I don't know how it happened, but my main key no longer locks or unlocks any of the doors. Some time ago I had a spare made which opens in the locks no problem. I only mention this because I'm not sure if I could ever get an original copy of the key again or if it's ever important. Edit: what buttons? And tell me about you! Cowslips Warren fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 22:44
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Godholio posted:I'm not sure if you're asking if the tumblers in the lock will no longer match your keys (that won't happen unless you ask a locksmith to rekey it) or if the lock itself will no longer line up with the hole in the door (that BETTER not happen, that'd be hosed up). The latter. gently caress why can't I answer both questions in one post. Bad phone posting.
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Sep 14, 2017 22:45
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:FWIW, a friend of mine went through this with her 2014 300. Well I decided to randomly check for any pending recalls, and what do you know? https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2017/RCLRPT-17V435-8916.PDF They finally decided to recall the V8 Chargers as well. It's literally the same alternator that keeps dying on the V6's. I can ask for reimbursement, but I think this alternator is on its way out too (when my first alternator died, battery saver mode message kept popping up more and more often until it finally kicked the bucket), so I can't ask for reimbursement. I think I'll just get the recall complete for the peace of mind. gently caress Chrysler. edit: Oh it looks like all the drat alternators are being recalled lol. The 160 amp one was the one known to go kaput, but they're also recalling the 180 amp one and the 220 amp police interceptor one, now. Yikes.
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Sep 14, 2017 23:21
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I'm by no means a car guy, and don't have any real experience routine maintenance beyond oil changes that I pay someone else to deal with. I've got a 2005 Mazda 6 that's got 95k on it (I'm a relatively low-mileage driver and don't really strain the car at all). The last few "We rotated your tires, so we checked out your tread depth and brake pads" inspections have said my pads are getting close to the 'Time for service' level, and since they've been in the car for its entire life, I know they're right. I have not had a detailed brake inspection. I've called around to a bunch of nationwide and local chains, and a couple of local garages to get quotes. Most of them are in the $250-300 range per axle, for pads and surfacing the rotors. One chain said that new rotors cost about the same or even less than resurfacing, and a local shop outright told me I should get new rotors and not have the old ones surfaced because if they get too thin and warp, I'll have to get new rotors and pads anyway. Firestone and Meineke are both on the low end; $200 per axle and less than $100 for a brake fluid flush. Les Schwab told me that calipers are included in their brake service because of warranty reasons, so they're over $500 per axle. Only one other local chain mentioned calipers (upping the price to about $500 per axle) but said they probably didn't need replacement, and brief reading indicates they only need to be replaced if there's actual mechanical problems with the brakes that would be evident during driving, which I haven't seen. One local garage (the one who says the rotors should be replaced and also said he uses OEM parts exclusively) is more expensive than the dealer, even after the dealer's expensive flush. The other local garage closes at 4:30 on weekdays and isn't open weekends, so I'm waiting on an email response. So, never having had to get brake service before, some advice would be nice. Should I go for resurfacing or just insist on replacing the rotors? Recommended places (or locals, if you're in the South Sound in Washington), or places to avoid? Call a few more independent shops? Don't want to get gouged, but I don't want someone who replaces my rotors with ones he made from beer cans he melted in his fire pit.
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Sep 15, 2017 05:02
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Hello all, I have a 97 Subaru Legacy I don't know what to do with. My friend got rear ended right before moving across the country, with no insurance from the other party to pay for the damages. So they gave me the car. The bumper is smashed in pretty good, but the car itself drives just fine. My problem is that I can't pass the police inspection with the bumper damaged, so I can't get a title and complete the sale. Of course, I have no interest in repairing the car since it would almost certainly exceed its total worth. I don't really need the car either. Is there a way I can get rid of it without the title? I don't think I can legally sell it. Any advice that can help me avoid paying 4 figgies to repair a car with 215k miles would be greatly appreciated.
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Sep 15, 2017 05:28
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Does your friend still have the title?
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Sep 15, 2017 05:29
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Junk companies will legally take it without a title. Gotta fill out a form they give you.
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Sep 15, 2017 05:46
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BlackMK4 posted:Any objections or specific things to check on this, planning to look after work today. A sideskirt is $150 on eBay. This car was a piece of poo poo in person. I bought a 2002 Lexus IS300 Sportcross instead.
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Sep 15, 2017 06:00
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Pyroclastic posted:So, never having had to get brake service before, some advice would be nice. Should I go for resurfacing or just insist on replacing the rotors? The parts-only cost for quality/branded front rotors and pads or your car should be about $100. The brake fluid for a flush.would be $10-20. The rest of the cost is labour charge. You shouldn't need to mess with the calipers unless they're seized, so replacing them as a matter of course is excessive. I would choose who to go with based on personal recommendation or good reputation for standing behind their work. I'd regard the "I only use OEM parts and unicorn piss" as so much guff unless they're known for being absolutely excellent with their work.
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Sep 15, 2017 09:12
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Cowslips Warren posted:The thing is, and I don't know how it happened, but my main key no longer locks or unlocks any of the doors. Some time ago I had a spare made which opens in the locks no problem. I only mention this because I'm not sure if I could ever get an original copy of the key again or if it's ever important. The power window/power lock buttons. I saw the windows issue and latched on to that, sorry. Your key may just be too worn down to work. You MAY be able to get the nearest dealer to cut a new one based on the VIN. I just called my local dealer, they said 99s are right on the edge of being purged from their system, and couldn't give a definite answer without the VIN. If you PM me the VIN I can find out. Their price was $21.88 + tax for the key + cutting it. Me.. I'm 5'7, 185, goony.  (been doin good tho, aside from a touch of a concussion)nevermind mixed you up with another goon who had two 2nd gen altimas, my memory is hosed at the moment randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Sep 15, 2017 |
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Sep 15, 2017 14:38
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now that I went back and re-read.. so the inside door handle and lock don't work either? That's a few plastic clips and metal rods - if you try to rip poo poo apart without taking it apart properly, they break easy. They're still available from Nissan. I'd be pissed too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Sep 15, 2017 |
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Sep 15, 2017 14:44
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A Bag of Milk posted:Hello all, I have a 97 Subaru Legacy I don't know what to do with. I worked at a body shop and bumpers are pretty ridiculously cheap to fix or replace - if you want to keep the car. Maybe even check with like a certi-fit vendor, or local bumper repair guy for a quote. There are ppl that just drive around fixin bumpers in town, thats it.
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Sep 15, 2017 17:03
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Pyroclastic posted:I'm by no means a car guy, and don't have any real experience routine maintenance beyond oil changes that I pay someone else to deal with. No one resurfaces rotors anymore. It's like 20+ per to do that these days and only $60/pr for new ones (for average common cars). My ex get screwed IMO during her last brake job where it was last minute late weekend need for brake repairs and flush so they machined the rotors as no other choice, and they did a terrible job (feel warped with a pulsating pedal)
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Sep 15, 2017 18:27
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Orielly's or autozone does it for like 15, they probably both do. Local places sometimes do it for like 5 per rotor. I mean to be worth it i guess you have to pull it yourself but its definetly cheaper.
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Sep 15, 2017 18:39
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Hey guys, stupid question. I have a 2013 Ford Mustang GT (manual transmission). A few weeks ago I got two new front tires due to holes in the old ones. Not sure what I drove over. Anyway, since then I've noticed a sort of bouncy vibration in the car when driving, and it's been much louder overall. At slow speeds you dont notice it at all, but 40mph or so you can feel the whole car shaking a bit. It seems to get better at faster speeds, but not by much. It also gets better if I make a heavy left turn, and worse if its a heavy right turn. Any thoughts on what this might be? Something messed up with the alignment or tire balance perhaps? Is that the sort of thing I could have someone come by and adjust, or do I need to take it in for service? Would it be better to go to the dealer, or just find a reliable mechanic to look at that?
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Sep 15, 2017 19:39
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Take it back and say the balance is poo poo on the right left tire.
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Sep 15, 2017 19:42
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BlackMK4 posted:Take it back and say the balance is poo poo on the right left tire. Indeed?
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Sep 15, 2017 20:11
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jesus.
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Sep 15, 2017 22:26
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Nuggan posted:I have a 2013 Ford Mustang GT (manual transmission). A few weeks ago I got two new front tires due to holes in the old ones. Not sure what I drove over. Anyway, since then I've noticed a sort of bouncy vibration in the car when driving, and it's been much louder overall. At slow speeds you dont notice it at all, but 40mph or so you can feel the whole car shaking a bit. It seems to get better at faster speeds, but not by much. It also gets better if I make a heavy left turn, and worse if its a heavy right turn. Check the air pressure, they may be massively overinflated. If they're not, get the shop that installed them to rebalance them. If they're still noisy - did you go with different tires? Some tires are just louder than others, but if one is unbalanced that'll make a hell of a racket. To feel it at 40 would be pretty badly unbalanced, getting worse the faster you go, sometimes smoothing out around 65-70. Usually you don't notice it until highway speeds, which is why I'm questioning the tire pressure (they'll bounce over every tiny little imperfection in the road instead of soaking up bumps, also makes the handling really sketchy). The noise could also be a damaged wheel bearing when you hit whatever it was that popped the tires. If you still have the noise after they've been checked out, rebalanced, and inflated to the correct pressure, have a shop check the front wheel bearings. No need to use the dealer once you're out of warranty, unless you just prefer them (a lot of them will give you a loaner while they work on your car, but you usually pay quite a bit more for their work). DogonCrook posted:Orielly's or autozone does it for like 15, they probably both do. Local places sometimes do it for like 5 per rotor. I mean to be worth it i guess you have to pull it yourself but its definetly cheaper. Very few Autozones and O'Reillys still have the lathes (that goes for parts stores in general unless you're in a small town). You'd have better luck at an old Napa. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Sep 16, 2017 |
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Sep 16, 2017 03:30
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A Bag of Milk posted:Hello all, I have a 97 Subaru Legacy I don't know what to do with. you can get a crash bar for like 77 bucks (http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/bumper_reinforcement/subaru/legacy.html) and then find a junk yard bumper cover for about the same. If your willing to do a little work yourself, and keep receipts and take pictures, you an get it retitiled and sell it for at least a grand. Makes more sense than to just junk it. If you are gonna go the junk rout tho, at least saw zaw off the catalytic converters and sell those to scrappers those alone are worth 200 bucks. Or i you can go find a feild and have a whole lot of fun destroying the thing.
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Sep 16, 2017 04:18
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