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socialsecurity posted:Craigslist has a Maker Farm Prusa 10" i3v 3D Printer for $315 says he added a 1.75 extruder and a fully heated bed, seems like a good deal but from what I can tell the thing is a older think it's worth picking up over a new Maker Select v2? Depends entirely on how good a job the guy that built it did when soldering the bullshit together. EDIT: gently caress no, is the answer I'd give.
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Sep 19, 2017 16:36
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socialsecurity posted:Craigslist has a Maker Farm Prusa 10" i3v 3D Printer for $315 says he added a 1.75 extruder and a fully heated bed, seems like a good deal but from what I can tell the thing is a older think it's worth picking up over a new Maker Select v2? Get the Maker Select V2. It gives you a known good starting point to gently caress up in your own way.
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Sep 19, 2017 19:43
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What's a well recommended and cheap PLA brand in the United States that know how to wrap their spools? I now have 2 spools of eSun PLA with hosed up twisted winding that causes a lot of underextrusion problems and seems to last for the entire roll. See:  
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Sep 19, 2017 21:47
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I hate to break it to you, but the hosed up spools are your fault. If you let go of the end of the filament a few windings will come loose and it can spontaneously tie itself into a knot.
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Sep 19, 2017 21:54
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I wish I could find filament that is spooled like Prusa's stuff. This red and yellow Hatchbox will tie up a little bit (like in the pic), but the extruder is strong enough to loosen it at least so no manual intervention.
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Sep 19, 2017 22:11
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Turns out the Olsson Ruby is hot garbage: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7152r8/psa_avoid_the_olsson_ruby_nozzle_i_was_shocked_by/
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Sep 19, 2017 22:24
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CloFan posted:I wish I could find filament that is spooled like Prusa's stuff. This red and yellow Hatchbox will tie up a little bit (like in the pic), but the extruder is strong enough to loosen it at least so no manual intervention. You have a knot in your filament, that you caused, and you need to fix it before it jams.
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Sep 19, 2017 22:31
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socialsecurity posted:Craigslist has a Maker Farm Prusa 10" i3v 3D Printer for $315 says he added a 1.75 extruder and a fully heated bed, seems like a good deal but from what I can tell the thing is a older think it's worth picking up over a new Maker Select v2? Nothing was "added", the heat bed comes standard, and you have the option of ordering it with either size nozzle. They may have upgraded the extruder/heater, but I doubt they touched the bed. My Makerfarm Pegasus 10" is my first 3D printer, and I'm happy with it. It is the upgrade of the original i3v clone. That printer retailed for $600. The benefit with the Makerfarm is obvious; the bed size. Also, it should have an E3D heater, which I don't believe Maker Select offers. The drawback is that it is used, so you'll never quite know what condition it is in. Also, its frame is wood-cut. The major upgrade with my Pegasus is the 20/20 aluminum extrusion frame. The greatest benefit with the Maker Select is how incredibly popular it is. If you ever have trouble with it, you'll find no shortage of users who can assist. If you want to upgrade it, you'll find no shortage of parts on Thingiverse. This is more difficult with Makerfarm. While it has some good representation on Thingiverse, it took me a while to find the kind of extruder mount I was looking for. And even then, it wasn't completely compatible with my printer, because I had the lead screw upgrade that the original designed of this part didn't. I ended up having to edit the part to get it to work for me. insta posted:You have a knot in your filament, that you caused, and you need to fix it before it jams. What can be done to prevent this?
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Sep 19, 2017 23:34
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Revol posted:
Don't let go of the loose end when loading, unloading or storing your filament.
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Sep 19, 2017 23:40
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How long would it take for a jam to manifest? This roll has been printing for ~25 hours like that, but I guess once the print going now is finished I'll try to fix it
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Sep 20, 2017 00:15
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Anybody have any tips on improving bed adhesion with HIPS? I'm having trouble keeping HIPS adhered when the cross sectional area is low- for supports, or for my primer pillar; the attached image shows what happens when the second extruder comes by to put a layer of pink ABS down on my red HIPS- pulls the square of the primer pillar right off the bed. The primer pillar is 2 cm square on either side. I don't have any trouble printing a 2 cm calibration cube, but I'm returning to the first layer immediately afterwards. For my model, the next layer on the primer pillar comes much later, since I print a lot of area for supports using the HIPS.
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Sep 20, 2017 01:20
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CloFan posted:I wish I could find filament that is spooled like Prusa's stuff. This red and yellow Hatchbox will tie up a little bit (like in the pic), but the extruder is strong enough to loosen it at least so no manual intervention. ah that's sweeeeeeeet booooooo that red poo poo
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Sep 20, 2017 01:26
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tried to fix it, but the remaining winds are so low I can't slip it over the edge and I'm pretty sure I made it worse guess I'm printing in blue tonight 
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Sep 20, 2017 01:47
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Working with more glitter this week for in store displays, very happy with how these came out. The plaques are our store band wood filament, the heads are Proto-pasta Stardust.
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Sep 20, 2017 01:56
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Those poor unicorns! You monster! Did you have a dual extruder, or just switched out filaments?
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Sep 20, 2017 01:58
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Synthbuttrange posted:Those poor unicorns! You monster! Just a switch. Put in an M600 at the end of layer 5 so the printer took care of the pause itself. Repetier Host made that really easy. Its internal gcode editor colour codes layer heights and had a simple gcode syntax translator.
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Sep 20, 2017 02:08
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BMan posted:Turns out the Olsson Ruby is hot garbage: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7152r8/psa_avoid_the_olsson_ruby_nozzle_i_was_shocked_by/ JFC is it just me or is that guy's writing really hard for other people to understand, too?
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Sep 20, 2017 14:23
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Word on the street is that the Monoprice Mini Delta pre-orders are supposed to all ship out this week (every single one in the campaign). I'll post some pics sometime next week whenever mine comes in.
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Sep 20, 2017 15:35
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e: oops
eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Sep 20, 2017 |
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Sep 20, 2017 19:08
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Word on the street is that the Monoprice Mini Delta pre-orders are supposed to all ship out this week (every single one in the campaign). I wonder if they’ll start talking about any of their other upcoming printers soon.
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Sep 21, 2017 01:19
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BMan posted:Turns out the Olsson Ruby is hot garbage: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/7152r8/psa_avoid_the_olsson_ruby_nozzle_i_was_shocked_by/ It seemed to me when it came out that it wasn't an ideal solution. They're pitching it as a high-end "ultimate" nozzle to end all nozzles but it was apparently devised as a very specific solution for printing large amounts of filament with highly abrasive media filling. The people who actually need a nozzle for such a specific application probably don't really care about price at this scale, as their entire extrusion chain will also need to be hardened to handle the material anyway. So for the users who actually need this nozzle the brass multi-piece construction is a huge compromise, I can only assume they did it to try and get the price down to a hobbyist-stretchable bracket. For the sake of maybe 30% cost increase they could have feasably made the nozzle body in tool steel and actually ended up with a product that actually serves that niche target market. At the lower end you're up against cheap hardened tool steel nozzles, which will handle >95% of anyone's needs for sub-2-3kg amounts of filaments like carbon filled PETG. If you're printing large amounts of say CF-20 (£45/750g) the cost of replacing the £15 tool steel nozzle every three to four spools (£135-180) seems quite reasonable. The Chinese Tungsten Carbide nozzle industry has apparently turned it's eye on 3D printing nozzles recently, so expect the ruby to be outperformed on both cost and performance (Tungsten Carbide is a good thermal conductor, better than steel) very soon in any case. Although the brittleness of tungsten brings it's own potential torquing failures.
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Sep 21, 2017 15:32
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So it turns out that my extruder clicking appears to be the fan duct I printed not cooling the heat-sink adequately. As a quick test, I threw the stock fan duct on and ran a quick test print. No clicking printing a benchy in PETG at 245C, so I'm calling that a win. Now printing a different part-cooling setup for my v6. As much as I liked the setup I had, I need to be able to print. The new setup will look pretty badass in it's own right, so I'm ok with it.
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Sep 21, 2017 16:19
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After being let down by part cooler after part cooler I designed one myself. Works a treat and it mounts easily to the carriage  Also I am now working half assedly on some stuff for a drone surveying company, this printer will pay for itself in no time
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Sep 22, 2017 09:45
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Jestery posted:After being let down by part cooler after part cooler I designed one myself. That view makes it look like the higher fan is tied to the top of the vent by the edge where it blows into space uselessly.
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Sep 22, 2017 12:53
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Got the webcam working on my print server. https://i.imgur.com/APa6eJF.gifv
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Sep 22, 2017 13:01
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OP, please
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Sep 22, 2017 13:19
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Megabound posted:Got the webcam working on my print server. Link to the STL? I want to print some and put them on my desk at work.
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Sep 22, 2017 13:55
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Link to the STL? I want to print some and put them on my desk at work. I forget where I got it from, but here's a link to my dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/s/3vs8834iot48z1z/mf.stl?dl=0
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Sep 22, 2017 14:01
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When I first asked this thread about getting into 3D printing, I explained that a major project I wanted to get into was making magazine file type boxes for my single issue comic books, so I can put them on my bookshelf. I've already made about 20 of these, using cardboard and duct tape, but they... suck. They take too long to make. They're flimsy and awkward. In looking for a new solution, I first thought about laser cutting wood, but I had concerns about having a laser cutter in my apartment. Besides, I figured I'd get more out of a 3D printer beyond this project. 9 months later, I've finally gotten it done.  Designed in Tinkercad, the only 3D design program I can wrap my head around. It's made out of five parts, combined here to get an idea how the finished product would look. A major idea behind this is that I'd be able to make these in different sizes, depending on how many issues it would hold. What you see here is 20mm thick, which is good for about 9-10 issues.   My .8mm nozzle was crucial in getting this done. There's no way I'd want to go through printing so many of these with a .4mm. It took several months to get good at printing with the .8mm, as well as struggles with the original mount for my BLTouch. I'm finally at the point where I can begin to really take off here. These will range in sizes of less than half to triple this first one. For a long time I've had a lot of different colors of PLA, mostly with this project in mind. Red for Marvel, blue for DC, black for Batman, green for Green Lantern, and white for other publishers. I'd like to ask for feedback on the design, if anyone can think of a way to improve this before I begin making them en masse. I am especially interested in ways that I can cut back on material. Simplify3D estimates that the entire design uses around 180g. That means I'd get 5 of these out of one roll, bringing a cost of $4-5 each. I'd like to cut that down by half if possible.
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Sep 23, 2017 05:23
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If they're going to be stacked up against one another on a shelf, you can probably reduce the overall thickness of each panel by half, and thin out the latticework on the sides by like two-thirds. That on its own will get you under your target. If they need to stand alone, maybe design a little baseplate that snaps on the bottom to keep them upright. Try it and test them out! The beauty of a 3D printer is that it takes next to no effort on your part to iterate through various versions of a design, so there's little need for guesswork. Print a lighter one and find out if it's suitable. If not, keep going.
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Sep 23, 2017 05:29
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An ironic consequence of the way 3d printing works is that walls are solid and solid bodies are mostly hollow, so if your walls are significantly more than 1.6mm (or 3.2mm if you want like, four nozzles thick) wide then you can get some significant weight savings by avoiding cutouts. I'd do a prototype that's just a straight-up .8mm thick along the walls without any cutouts and see how that goes. I know you've got a thick front for labels so spiralizing won't work, but that'll give you a relatively strong part with minimal material and time if you want to try that as well. Also, being tied to tinkercad for prototyping is maddening. You should really give fusion360 or openscad a try so you can just modify your parameters in a sketch and have it change all relevant parts of your design automatigically.
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Sep 23, 2017 05:31
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Revol, I found that in symmetrical shape scenarios, 3D printing is great for the initial design, but there's no reason to wait so long for printing once the initial shape is created (past the size variations you mentioned). Have you considered getting some shallow tubs, adhering the individual pieces to the bottom, covering in something like Smooth-On silicone / rubber to make a mold, and once that's cured you can fill it with a quick curing plastic each time. Takes about 15 minutes to fully harden once mixed. Peel it carefully out of the mold, repeat. I've replicated a lot of custom toys this way and saved days of printing time. Also good for chocolate if you get food grade silicone. I made a tutorial. kuskus fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 05:59
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Does anyone know what setting this is from? I have a sneaking suspecion is because relative retraction in slicer being on. It only does it when going from piece to piece. I see it happening and it the nozzle just poops out that thread when coming in to the layer. The retraction is at 1.5mm at 40mm on a maker prusa type extruder (the one you print with the knobbed dowel and the derlin bearing pushing the filament down) 
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Sep 23, 2017 16:49
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Prusa MK3 has been announced
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Sep 23, 2017 16:51
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fuuuuuck no upgrade path
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Sep 23, 2017 17:23
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I might get one. That Octopi support sounds amazing. I need to see if it can be any other version of Pi and I can just wire it to match the outputs. Does the pi zero consume less power ? Warning: e/n spoiled out Futzing around with the makerfarm Pegasus is getting lame since the guy is super helpful putting it together but his constant demand to use a version of Slic3r about 5 years old now I think (0.9.9) for *reasons* is tiring . I use the latest of Slic3r and I have to constantly adjust it to print okay but the first question he will ask you is why aren't you using slicer software that doesn't even have a 3d preview window is dumb. His hardware support is top notch and you get response via email within an hour or two of asking it but his software support sucks. Like, if you market it under your name, at least spend a half day upgrading the default settings of a Slic3r config so it works because no one else out there will ever expect having to put 200% first layer width . Anyway I'll look into preordering it. EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 17:49
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Try slic3r prusa edition, it fixed a ton of problems I was having.
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Sep 23, 2017 18:04
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Revol, have you considered using cardboard or foam code or fiberboard for the flat areas and just designing and 3d printing 90 degree angled connectors to slot it all together? In other words use the 3d printer more for its strengths and less for printing big flat areas. Best way to get the price down imo if you are ok with different materials. There are cheaper materials for flat panels than 3d printing them (although 3d printing is fine it sounds like you're not hot on the fact that it scales poorly)
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Sep 23, 2017 18:06
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mewse posted:Try slic3r prusa edition, it fixed a ton of problems I was having. I have already upgraded to latest Slic3r (prusas version because I love that manual detail slider) but it's always a challenge to interpret some of the profile settings for the .9.9 and apply it to the Slic3r of today.
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Sep 23, 2017 18:51
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The Prusa MK3 sounds so nice. It's just a step short of a revolution, since they argue that FDM has peaked. I don't think this is true, but we're probably a way off from that next big step.Sagebrush posted:If they're going to be stacked up against one another on a shelf, you can probably reduce the overall thickness of each panel by half, and thin out the latticework on the sides by like two-thirds. That on its own will get you under your target. If they need to stand alone, maybe design a little baseplate that snaps on the bottom to keep them upright. That is an excellent point. Yes, they're all going to be stacked in a bookshelf with normal trade paperback cover books, or other comic holders. Right now the thickness is 4mm.That is really unnecessary. I'm printing at 400 microns, so I'm thinking I could get it down as low as .12mm thick. The reason I went with 4mm thickness is because of the joint notches. The one concern with thinning the box is that the notches become thinner as well. I'll try it. I've also decided to cut the height of the sides and back to the same height as the front. Mister Sinewave posted:Revol, have you considered using cardboard or foam code or fiberboard for the flat areas and just designing and 3d printing 90 degree angled connectors to slot it all together? That is a very interesting idea. I'd be concerned about it falling apart, though. Even if it is a really tight fit, it would still be plastic on paper materials. Right now I've got plastic on plastic connections, and it feels more secure. But you certainly win the contest for cutting back the most on materials! EVIL Gibson posted:Futzing around with the makerfarm Pegasus is getting lame since the guy is super helpful putting it together but his constant demand to use a version of Slic3r about 5 years old now I think (0.9.9) for *reasons* is tiring . I use the latest of Slic3r and I have to constantly adjust it to print okay but the first question he will ask you is why aren't you using slicer software that doesn't even have a 3d preview window is dumb. Agreed, the major drawback of Makerfarm is software support. It's taken me a while, but I've found a good place with my 10" Pegasus using the latest versions of Simplify3D and Marlin firmware. If you need help, let me know. I'd also try asking this forum if anyone has Slic3r settings.
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Sep 23, 2017 20:01
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