|
Quidthulhu posted:Is there a go to light source for painting, maybe with a magnifier also? I had to stand up to paint yesterday cause the light in my bedroom is real bad and I want a painting lamp or something I have a light/magnifier on an arm clamped to my desk and it's great in that I can quickly move it out of the way behind the monitor. I never bother with the magnifier, but the light makes so much difference. It's usually 9-10" above what I'm painting, while I paint.
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 18:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 00:29 |
|
|
Corrode posted:So I tried out some OSL on Cawl and I'm not sure if I've really gotten it right: This Cawl looks really good man, especially the OSL. I didn't even think of doing that. I dig the super snow base. Are you going to splatter some blood into it like the one they have at Warhammer World?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 18:40
|
|
|
OptimusWang posted:This - they just changed the labels, but it's the same stuff. I'm currently making a swatch book by taking a Moleskine hardcover sketchbook, masking it off, and priming swatches (golden ratio!) with a gradient of Vallejo primer -- German Panzer Grey on the left edge, then regular Grey in the middle, then White on the right. Thirty swatches per page.  It lets me see every paint I own''s consistency, transparency, and color at a glance, and if I have a paint in a given line, I mark out enough space to put all the paints in that line in the book later. Currently I have 33 pages primed with 26 left to go, with 14 filled out with the paints I own, mostly Vallejo, Citadel, and Reaper -- generally I can get two 2-page spreads done per day, one in the morning before work and one in the evening after. So I was trying to figure out if I need to devote separate space to an Army Painter Quickshade Ink line and an Army Painter Quickshade Wash line, or if it was all one line with confusing labeling. It being the latter makes me happy, as it takes up less pages. Current discoveries: The best-covering white is Reaper MSP HD Solid White. It should give me some good idea of e.g. what Army Painter Quickshades look like compared to Citadel Shades.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 18:42
|
|
|
Stephenls posted:I'm currently making a swatch book by taking a Moleskine hardcover sketchbook, masking it off, and priming swatches (golden ratio!) with a gradient of Vallejo primer -- German Panzer Grey on the left edge, then regular Grey in the middle, then White on the right. Thirty swatches per page. Holy poo poo, this is a lot of work. I'm in awe. I kind of want to do it myself now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 18:44
|
|
|
Zuul the Cat posted:This Cawl looks really good man, especially the OSL. I didn't even think of doing that. I dig the super snow base. Are you going to splatter some blood into it like the one they have at Warhammer World? Thanks! I'm happy with him although I could have gone into more detail I think - lots of cables I've left as bare metal could have been picked out. I wasn't planning on bloodying up the snow base - there's some little bits of industrial damage on him and the other guys to fit with a polar research station board I'm going to make whenever there is time and room to do it. I didn't actually attach the picture from the front (thanks again richyp for the white balance tip!), but for him it's just the little bit of mechanical whatever on his base:  Funny story, a guy who used to come to my tournaments had a great looking Dark Elf army and one day he got it in his head to make the Altar of Blood thing have a working blood fountain in it. It was extremely cool right up until he spilled a bunch of red "blood" all over one of our pristine white snow boards. Six years later I went to my buddy's new shop in Birmingham and there's the snow board with this loving blood stain still on it - Simon (Hawk Simon for Dropzone fans) has tried scrubbing it, painting over it, no dice, it's still showing through.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 18:52
|
|
|
Why would you ever think a literal fountain would be a good idea on a Warhammer table. Good lord. I once planned to get one of those ultrasonic water misters and make a terrain piece that would kick out this awesome fog across the table. Then I realised that having water vapour constantly washing of your minis and terrain was actually a dreadful idea.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 18:59
|
|
|
ineptmule posted:Why would you ever think a literal fountain would be a good idea on a Warhammer table. Good lord. It was a long time ago so I might be overstating how much it worked (it might have just been liquid held in the altar bowl) but yeah, it came to a messy end.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 19:07
|
|
|
TTerrible posted:Holy poo poo, this is a lot of work. I'm in awe. I kind of want to do it myself now. When I get home I'll post a tutorial for some of the trickier bits of the process, I guess?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 19:27
|
|
|
Stephenls posted:I'm currently making a swatch book by taking a Moleskine hardcover sketchbook, masking it off, and priming swatches (golden ratio!) with a gradient of Vallejo primer -- German Panzer Grey on the left edge, then regular Grey in the middle, then White on the right. Thirty swatches per page. This is my favorite kind of OCD and I applaud your efforts. If you ever take pics/scans of your pages and compile them into a PDF or something you would be a hero. Also, you mentioned AP Quickshades so I thought you should know: the original Quickshades where you dunk a mini into a can are a very different beast than the washes/inks they also call Quickshades, even though they have the same name and color values. I doubt you'll ever want to use the Quickshades in a can, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 19:34
|
|
|
How does one achieve a gradient effect or a fade effect with an airbrush?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 20:36
|
|
|
I know a bunch of you in here play the Batman miniature game from Knight Models, so i wanted to ask - is there any news on when the Harry Potter line will be released? I want paint some up as presents for christmas. I can't find any info online other than Fall 2017, and that The Warstore will update one preorder info is available.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 20:37
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:How does one achieve a gradient effect or a fade effect with an airbrush?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 20:40
|
|
|
Ilor posted:The same way you do it with a brush - successive coats of progressively lighter/darker colors. The only difference is that with an airbrush, the coats of paint are naturally thinner and therefore the gradients are smoother. It's also a hell of a lot faster, especially for large, flat areas. But if I do, lets say, dark to light, won't I just be painting over the coat I just put down?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 20:56
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:But if I do, lets say, dark to light, won't I just be painting over the coat I just put down? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERX3ghWvMDw
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 21:14
|
|
|
Stephenls posted:page 293 Also, thanks for reminding me I have a waterproof notebook lying around I should use to keep samples of camo patterns and other color schemes .
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 21:22
|
|
|
Can you even wet blend with an airbrush
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 21:56
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:But if I do, lets say, dark to light, won't I just be painting over the coat I just put down? In practice, it will take you a little trial-and-error to get the hang of how to do this, because you'll often find that rather than switching colors between each step, what you'll do instead is do one coat of medium gray over 75% of the area, then another coat of the same medium gray over only 60% of the area before moving on to your next color. When done well (in thin coats), you can take advantage of the translucency of a coat applied with an airbrush to smooth the transition between coats/colors. The "trial-and-Error" bit is important, because no matter how much we can tell you how it works, you'll need to experiment with your particular airbrush (tips, pressure, technique, etc) to get a feel for it. Start out on something other than your minis until you get a good feel for it and learn good airbrush control. Ilor fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Sep 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:You have way too much time on your hands. That's not actually page 293. I had originally conceived of this project as a two-book set, with the first book being a painting journal and the second being a book of swatches, so I numbered all the pages as one book split across two volumes and marked out enough space at the beginning of the first volume for a Bulletjournal-style table of contents/index. The painting journal half is mostly blank because I'm not getting much painting done while I get the search book primed.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2017 22:14
|
|
|
Thanks to those who replied to my question! The one I was looking at didn't seem to have a tank, no. The one they have that does is a $100 dollar jump  I'll make the leap at some point but I don't think it'll be this year. I still have a load of Vallejo Game Colour to get.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 01:15
|
|
|
Edit: Someone claimed em. Speaking of Vallejo Game Color, anyone in the U.S. want some? An ex-gf of mine bought one of those $300 sets that comes with like the 80 paints or whatever. I've had it for a few years and I've only used it like...maybe 2 or 3 times? It's missing the varnishes (satin, matte and gloss) and the thinner, because I used those. I think all the other paints are in there. I never use VGC, I prefer citadel. Anyway, if you want it (edit: for free. i'm giving it away, i don't want it.), PM me or message here. Zuul the Cat fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Sep 21, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 01:23
|
|
|
Zuul the Cat posted:Edit: Someone claimed em. Hey, I'm interested in the game color set if no ones asked yet.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 03:31
|
|
|
Skails posted:Hey, I'm interested in the game color set if no ones asked yet. Someone asked for it already. sorry man.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 03:49
|
|
|
No problem, I misread and didn't think something like that would sit long! Got to work some on the Monolith. Here's a quick and dirty shot:  I'm thinking of adding blue along the top half of each panel to smooth out the blue that is on there and add more color and transition.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 04:55
|
|
|
Cross-posting from the 40k thread.Irate Tree posted:Finally have a minimum squad of Kabalites! A wholly, completely illegal squad of Kabalites!
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 08:16
|
|
|
Phi230 posted:Can you even wet blend with an airbrush I thought the question was about non-airbrushing. Sorry.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 12:00
|
|
|
Skails posted:No problem, I misread and didn't think something like that would sit long! I think this looks awesome, it looks like it's bleeding light. I'd accentuate the symbol and some of those deep recesses to further enhance the effect, then call it done. It has this spooky OSL effect already why not run with it?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 12:34
|
|
|
Update on my Mr. Putty adventures. I got some Mr. Color Leveling Thinner in the mail based on some online recommendations, and it seems to be exactly the stuff they use in Mr. Dissolved Putty. If you use any of the Mr. Putty stuff, I highly recommend it, especially for reviving your bottle of Mr. Dissolved Putty when it starts getting too thick. The various Mr. Putty types are seriously the best gap-filling putties I've used (you still want some two-part putties for bigger stuff and for when you need to sculpt though). Just, you know, use a respirator when working with Mr. Dissolved Putty or Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. I figured I'd just dink around with it for a minute or two and I could immediately tell I should have grabbed my respirator.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 22:17
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Update on my Mr. Putty adventures. I got some Mr. Color Leveling Thinner in the mail based on some online recommendations, and it seems to be exactly the stuff they use in Mr. Dissolved Putty. If you use any of the Mr. Putty stuff, I highly recommend it, especially for reviving your bottle of Mr. Dissolved Putty when it starts getting too thick. The various Mr. Putty types are seriously the best gap-filling putties I've used (you still want some two-part putties for bigger stuff and for when you need to sculpt though). I've determined anything made in Japan for the hobby is not only highly effective but also toxic as hell.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 22:25
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:I figured I'd just dink around with it for a minute or two and I could immediately tell I should have grabbed my respirator. Either you're going to get special powers, or Papa Nurgle is ready for a chat.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 22:30
|
|
|
Yeah, I mean it's "just" a lacquer thinner, but I try to be careful because I'd rather not gently caress up my body unnecessarily.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 23:11
|
|
|
I was painting some purple cloth and shading it with a dark purple ink. The shading is fine, but now all of the cloth is glossy as gently caress. I hit it with a couple coats of testor's dullcoat, but it is still very shiny. Anyway I can bring the cloth back to truly matte without repainting?
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 23:39
|
|
|
You could try brushing on some matte medium or matte varnish.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2017 23:52
|
|
|
Is it possible to airbrush ink over metal to end up with a colored metal effect? Or do I need to buy ghost tints?
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 06:37
|
|
|
You'd have an easier time with tamiya clear paints, ink would be easy to overspray and get hella pooling.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 08:19
|
|
|
I've had good luck spraying scale 75 inks as candy coats. I've been doing a lot of real thin spraying working on zenithal stuff and the trick so far for me has been a relatively high psi (30) and keeping it moving to avoid pooling.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 12:37
|
|
|
wait, how do you "candy coat" a thing? I just brushed some tamiya clear onto gloss coated VMC Silver. Worked good though there are some thicker parts. I'd recommend thinning it down and doing two coats if you're gonna brush.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 13:45
|
|
|
Could you not just mix some ink into silver paint and brush it on like a regular coloured metallic? I used to do that with Chestnut ink back in the day as a cheapo bronze.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 14:31
|
|
|
DiHK posted:wait, how do you "candy coat" a thing? Candy paint is a color tinted transparent coat where you're still supposed to see they undercoat. I'd recommend Tamiya clear as well. Inks can work but have a different viscosity that make it a little more tricky.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 15:16
|
|
|
I avoid spraying anything but water-based acrylics so inks work well for me.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 15:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 00:29 |
|
|
Did the edge highlighting on 5 of my deathwatch last night, but decided to go with Incubi Darkness instead of Dark Reaper. Finished the edge highlighting, then did some work on the chapter badges. Really happy with how these turned out, especially the Flesh Tearers one (which is my secret favorite chapter). I also decided to test out using a satin varnish on the black, and I really like the look of it, so I think i'm going to use it on all the power armor. You can see it on the black area around the Flesh Tearers shoulder pad. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2017 15:58
|
|