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Sneeze Party posted:Calling either of these lenses 'low contrast and hazy' wide open is pretty hyperbolic. Both perform really, really well wide open. Are they as good as the Sigma Art? No. Are they still very high contrast, sharp lenses? Absolutely. And having owned both the 1.8 and the 1.4, the 1.4 focuses significantly faster than the 1.8 in my experience. I don't think that the 1.4 is a waste of money at all. These are simple double gauss designs that date back to FD mount. Wide open they are very dreamy looking and low contrast - that's not hyperbole, it's a fact. They are also razor sharp stopped down and resolve a ton of detail while remaining tiny and light. That's the tradeoff you make with such a simple lens design. And the AF on the new STM model of the 1.8 is an order of magnitude more accurate than the 1.4 is, even if it remains a little slower. The old coffee grinder 1.8 is not what I'm talking about here.
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# ? May 31, 2024 15:21 |
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timrenzi574 posted:These are simple double gauss designs that date back to FD mount. Wide open they are very dreamy looking and low contrast - that's not hyperbole, it's a fact. They are also razor sharp stopped down and resolve a ton of detail while remaining tiny and light. That's the tradeoff you make with such a simple lens design. All of the EF mount 50s produce absolutely usable images right down to their widest aperture. That's all I'm saying. The below photo is of a very, very fast moving subject, shot at f1.6, and a 100% crop of the focus point (his eyes). ![]() Boone is a Little Crazy by Sneeze Party, on Flickr ![]() Boone is a Little Crazy by Sneeze Party, on Flickr
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people who obsess over having the sharpest of the sharp and won't accept anything less than new L lenses are usually lovely photographers
underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Sep 18, 2017 |
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99.9999% of the time it isn't your lens that made your photo lovely.
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underage at the vape shop posted:people who obsess over having the sharpest of the sharp and won't accept anything less than new L lenses are usually lovely photographers This isn't so much a case of obsessing over the sharpest of sharp as a case of saying "the 1.4 and 1.8 are both okay but not all that sharp, so spending 3x as much money on the 1.4 is a bad cost proposition"
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timrenzi574 posted:This isn't so much a case of obsessing over the sharpest of sharp as a case of saying "the 1.4 and 1.8 are both okay but not all that sharp, so spending 3x as much money on the 1.4 is a bad cost proposition" Sneeze Party fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Sep 18, 2017 |
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um excuse me posted:99.9999% of the time it isn't your lens that made your photo lovely. unless you're shooting with holga lenses
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timrenzi574 posted:This isn't so much a case of obsessing over the sharpest of sharp as a case of saying "the 1.4 and 1.8 are both okay but not all that sharp, so spending 3x as much money on the 1.4 is a bad cost proposition" do you own any of the lenses in question
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Lutha Mahtin posted:do you own any of the lenses in question I've owned 3 1.4's in the past 20 years, 2 of which had the AF module break, and one that I gave to a friend with my old 10D. The last one broke a few months after the STM came out, at which point I bought that, decided it had much more accurate AF, and that Canon was not getting 350 bucks out of me again for 2/3 stop of so-so ever again. Edit: I don't own the Tamron or Sigma Art though. But anyone capable of looking at pictures can see they are clearly much much better wide open (at a cost of money and size)
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timrenzi574 posted:I've owned 3 1.4's in the past 20 years, 2 of which had the AF module break... I've used both and always preferred the 1.8 for how tiny and controllable the manual focus ring felt just using my pinky. Somehow the 1.4's "better" focus ring felt worse and I didn't like the AF motor over the 1.8's, especially for the cost difference.
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mrlego posted:I've used both and always preferred the 1.8 for how tiny and controllable the manual focus ring felt just using my pinky. Somehow the 1.4's "better" focus ring felt worse and I didn't like the AF motor over the 1.8's, especially for the cost difference. the STM is focus by wire, so manual focus is not so great. But AF wise, I find it worlds better. Not faster, but dead on accurate every time and fast enough for my needs.
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timrenzi574 posted:the STM is focus by wire, so manual focus is not so great. But AF wise, I find it worlds better. Not faster, but dead on accurate every time and fast enough for my needs. I have the STM version and 2 non STMs in the past and for the low light situations I use the 50mm in, manual focus is easier for me with the older design.
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Is a 70D/80D a worthwile upgrade from a 600D/T3i? I don't care about video/better ergonomics/AF, what I really want is a camera with better low light/high ISO performance (I don't really like pictures taken with ISO above 1600 on my 600D). I have a small collection of crop lenses that I'm really happy with so I would prefer to not go full frame.
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The 80d is really good. But I was upgrading from a T1i so a kick in the teeth would have been an upgrade.
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I've been reading the megathreads and lots of good info here. My wife wants a camera and really thinks she will get out and use it. Basically will be shooting pictures of kids doing things inside and outside. She's tried all the basic stuff sold at Costco and decided she likes Canon. We don't want to gently caress with used. Is the difference between these two kits: Canon EOS Rebel T6 DSLR Camera 2 Lens Bundle $550 Canon EOS 80D DSLR Camera 2 Lens Bundle $1400 Basically that the 80D body is much nicer and the included lenses are much much better? I'm concerned that she may not care for it as a hobby but they both have Wi-Fi workflows and the Rebel has a natural upgrade path IF she wants to upgrade bodies after getting the practice and acquiring lenses. Is there anything I'm missing in the comparison and in the purchase? It looks like both will need a strap. I can get either but $550 seems like such a bargain to try out the hobby.
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Hed posted:My wife wants a camera and really thinks she will get out and use it. Basically will be shooting pictures of kids doing things inside and outside. She's tried all the basic stuff sold at Costco and decided she likes Canon. We don't want to gently caress with used.
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I'm pretty sure that both of those cameras will come with a strap - there's one in the actual camera box along with a battery and a charger. The bundled lenses on the 80D kit are both better than the T6. The 18-55 in the 80D kit is the latest version with improved optics, the one with the T6 is the previous version which was just an aesthetic upgrade over the Mk1. Better is relative though, all of those kit lenses are pretty limited, they represent the cheapest way to get that range of focal lengths. They aren't terrible but they are definitely not going to set your world on fire. The big zooms especially are likely to be disappointing, my experience with budget superzooms is that they are too slow and too soft at long range and you need to stop them down a lot at the wide end to make them sharp - which makes them slow as hell. The 80D is a very nice camera though. I have a 70D and the 80D is an incremental upgrade to that. The T6 has an image processor that's 2 generations old, a much worse sensor and far more limited ergonomics and controls. You're comparing a no-frills entry level camera with a high-end enthusiast/semi-pro model. As far as 'wifi workflows' are concerned, they both do have wifi connectivity and it can be useful but it's not really an alternative to popping out the SD card and slapping it in a card reader. The Canon Connect App lets you use your smartphone or tablet as a remote control for the camera, which can be useful in some circumstances and it lets you pull down pictures from the camera to your smart device. It's mostly useful for pulling out a couple of pics to post to Instagram before you get home to edit them properly rather than a way to bulk offload a day of pictures for publishing. Helen Highwater fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Why does your wife want a dslr? I bought my wife one. It gets used, but not a ton. If the reason is to get better shots of the kids playing, she may be just as well served by a Sony rxiii or whatever is the current recommendation. Just offering my two cents as someone who has been in that spot before. Do not underestimate the significance of size. When you're at home it may not matter, but when it's one more thing to pack in the diaper bag or something heavy hanging around your neck that will be in the way when you are carrying toddlers. Huge difference. I argue with my friend who doesn't have kids all the time. He can't understand that. It's very real though. There's no way our Nikon dslr is coming out of the bag at Disneyland all day for example. Last week I took it out once for picture in front of the castle. Left it in the bag the rest of the day. When we had a mirrorless for awhile, that stayed out of the bag around our necks for half the day on a Disneyland trip. Size makes a difference when you have kids to lug around.
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I highly recommend the Sony RX100 and you can just get the most advanced model that you can afford. Unless you're gonna be a pro or doing some advanced photography shooting, that camera is enough to last you for a long time, especially if you shoot RAW files with it.
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Couldn't agree more. There's a reason camera phones became so important because they're small and always with you. My RX100 comes with me on all my travels because it takes great photos and fits in my pocket. It's nicer than camera phone pics and has real optical zoom with a manual ring. Hiking and backpacking trips are more enjoyable because it doesn't weigh me down like 15 lbs of batteries, bodies and lenses. DSLRs are great but they are pretty bulky and more tool than needed for most tasks. Also, 95% of most non professional people with DSLRs have no idea how to use the majority of the features and rarely take them out of auto mode. I honestly only use my dslr for weddings and paid work.
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Verman posted:95% of most non professional people with DSLRs have no idea how to use the majority of the features and rarely take them out of auto mode. Entry level DSLRs don't make it particularly easy to learn how to use the other functions with their poor ergos and lack of a top LCD/dedicated setting buttons. Best choice I made was to save up a little more cash for a 60D instead of some Rebel for my first camera.
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Agreed. I have a 5d4 but it's still sitting in the box even though I was ready to take it for a 3 day weekend trip. Rx 100 series rule and with a mini tripod it works wonders for traveling. For kids, you can learn how to shoot manual mode with the rx 100. Once she knows how to maximize the camera then she can switch to a dslr and get more out of it. All beginners go through a learning curve so might as well start with a cheaper and lighter camera
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Setting aperture and shutter speed is not some arcane incantation. Anyone that wants to learn to shoot manual will and even the shittiest canon body has dials set up to do it quickly. Rebel bodies are just drat fine.
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Is the RX100 the new point and shoot hotness? I might be dating myself here, but the last time I knew the dorkroom consensus was the Canon S95.
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Doesn't have to be rx100 but something like it. Basically a high quality point and shoot that shoots raw has manual focus, optical zoom and has a good sized sensor.
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xzzy posted:Setting aperture and shutter speed is not some arcane incantation. Anyone that wants to learn to shoot manual will and even the shittiest canon body has dials set up to do it quickly. Rebel bodies are just drat fine. +1 Canon also includes a lot of very nice built in tutorials in the more recent Rebels, they will walk you through what the settings your changing will do with visual examples right on the back screen.
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I got a new job! Horray! Help me spend (waste) money goons! I currently own the following combos: 6D + 24-105L for general shooting, travel and vacation photos, etc. Use it the most frequently. 7D + 100-400L Mk II for airshows 1-2 times per year and wildlife 1-2 times per year. Used less frequently, but more photos taken since DAKKA DAKKA DAKKA! A few options to upgrade, which will bring me the most happiness? And over compensate for average skill? 1) 24-105L Mk II. An in-place upgrade of my most-used lens would be nice. Can probably get a decent resale for my old one. Is the new mark significantly better than the older mark? 2) 6D to either 6D Mk II or 5D Mk IV. Use this camera the most. My only complaint is the controls feel a bit plastiky compared to my 7D, especially the smaller rear control wheel, and the autofocus system of course. Mostly shooting stills so meh. Also don't want it to be too heavy if possible. 3) 7D to the 7D Mk II. Better autofocus, fps, and image quality whoo! The 7D is my oldest camera for sure, and there's a chip problem so it shits itself when trying to record video, but I only use it for stills so meh. But not sure if will be using it enough to justify the price. Probably won't get more than a few hundred bucks resale from my Mk I at this point. 4) Just buy a 1DXII and be done with it. Not out of my price range, though would probably have to splurge on some diamonds or poo poo for the fiancee before revealing my purchase. Kinda worried about the size and weight of the thing for traveling though.
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INTJ Mastermind posted:
Most of the reviews say it's not a significant upgrade IQ wise. Distortion at 24mm is much better, but otherwise not a significant improvement anywhere. IS system much better. Bigger and heavier than predecessor for marginal improvements seems to be the consensus (haven't used it myself, so can't say)
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Actually the best thing you can buy is a flash unit if you dont have one. Or a CARBON FIBRE god knows how much tripod and head. Or a nice prime lens
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The 7D2 would be a huge improvement over the 7D- do you think you'd use your tele setup more if you updated this set-up? Bonus that you wouldn't have to worry about a mix of CF and SD cards. I don't know how many extra stops the 7D2 will give you in terms of high ISO performance, but I'd guess at least a couple. You could also go 80D if you don't need to max out frame rate and AF points. You didn't mention these as options, but my vote would be a couple of new lenses (maybe Rokinon 14mm and one of the 100mm macros, or get a nice fast prime). Also like the suggestion of the carbon fiber tripod. Every time I pick mine up I'm like "thank you, me" But do what feels good, man.
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Thanks for the suggestions. So long story but... the 7D was my only body for a while until it started crashing when doing long bursts. Brought it to an independent camera repair guy who diagnosed it with a motherboard issue. The repair would have been almost as much as a new refurb body. This was before the 7D Mark II came out so I had to decide between buying another 4 year old 7D or upgrade to full frame with the 6D. Turns out that the old 7D that was supposedly on its last legs is still alive and kicking 2 years later, been through three more air shows without issues. Welp... Looking at reviews and opinions it seems the 7D II is a better upgrade from the original than the 6D Mk II. There seems to be some controversy over the 6D II's sensor quality?
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INTJ Mastermind posted:Thanks for the suggestions. So long story but... the 7D was my only body for a while until it started crashing when doing long bursts. Brought it to an independent camera repair guy who diagnosed it with a motherboard issue. The repair would have been almost as much as a new refurb body. This was before the 7D Mark II came out so I had to decide between buying another 4 year old 7D or upgrade to full frame with the 6D. Turns out that the old 7D that was supposedly on its last legs is still alive and kicking 2 years later, been through three more air shows without issues. Welp... Since you mentioned the 5Div, why not get that instead?
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INTJ Mastermind posted:Thanks for the suggestions. So long story but... the 7D was my only body for a while until it started crashing when doing long bursts. Brought it to an independent camera repair guy who diagnosed it with a motherboard issue. The repair would have been almost as much as a new refurb body. This was before the 7D Mark II came out so I had to decide between buying another 4 year old 7D or upgrade to full frame with the 6D. Turns out that the old 7D that was supposedly on its last legs is still alive and kicking 2 years later, been through three more air shows without issues. Welp... The controversy is that Canon switched most of it's new chip output last year to a new fabrication line using on-chip ADC's, which cuts down massively on the amount of read noise (so , it makes shadow tones more useful and less noisy, increasing available low ISO dynamic range.) For whatever reason, after releasing a slew of new FF and APS-C cameras (80D, 5DIV, 1DX2, M5/M6, Rebel T7i/77D, Rebel SL2) using this new fabrication line, they then released the 6D2 using a chip that seems to be from the old fab and thus has a lot of read noise at low ISO still. Their current APS-C sensors have more dynamic range available than the 6D2 does as a result. The 7D2 chip comes from this old fab line also though, so it's not like you'd be better off there in that one respect. (Except for the increase APS-C > FF, which you're already familiar with from owning a 7D & 6D original) As far as other features, they upgraded nearly everything on both bodies otherwise. 7D -> 7D2 gets you: More FPS (10 vs 8) , More AF points (65 vs 19) , Dual Pixel AF in Live View, Deeper Buffer, GPS, Wi-Fi (with the add-on SD card which I think they bundle with the camera now anyway) , Intervalometer, Anti Flicker, and the AF mode toggle switch around the joystick 6D -> 6D2 gets you: More FPS (6.5 vs 4.5) , More AF Points (45 vs 9) , Dual Pixel AF in Live View, Deeper Buffer, Wifi (Did the 6D have wifi already? I know it had GPS) Intervalometer, Anti Flicker, and a touchy flippy screen
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6D had wifi, there's also people saying that 6D2 ISO performance is worse somehow. Haven't read too much into that though.
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Constellation I posted:6D had wifi, there's also people saying that 6D2 ISO performance is worse somehow. Haven't read too much into that though. Not in any appreciable way. The read noise is a tiny bit worse on the 6D2, the SNR is a tiny bit better. The two sensors are pretty much dead even.
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Get the 5D IV. It has better sensor than the 6D2 while having better resolution and video capability than the 1DXII. Note that 6D2 being on the same dynamic range level as 6D is a really bad thing in the year 2017. Where we have Sony and Nikon that are both massively better than the old Canon. The newer canon sensor mentioned earlier are only just caught up or still slightly behind Nikon/Sony's 2~3 year old bodies such as the D810/A7R2.
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drat shame that 6D2. It had less high ISO noise than the 5D3 which was super important considering it was a "budget" body and most people buying them would not be springing for expensive f2.8 zooms. The 6D2 being such a disappointment has meant that used 6D bodies will stay more expensive than they might otherwise be, pricing out the number of people who can afford to get into full frame DSLRery. I know you can get one for less than 1k but there was that chance it could have been even lower and more accessible. E: Oh used 5D3s are going for no more than $1500 ![]() Seamonster fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Can the 5D Mark IV trigger a flash when you take a photo in live view? I sometimes find myself photographing subjects (amphibians) that are ok with a camera scooting close, but not ok with a human face being nearby. I had to focus using live view while staying hidden behind the camera, but the 5D Mark III won't trigger a flash that way. I sometimes forgot to switch out of live view as I was moving the camera closer to the toad, and ended up missing shots.
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Bubbacub posted:Can the 5D Mark IV trigger a flash when you take a photo in live view? I sometimes find myself photographing subjects (amphibians) that are ok with a camera scooting close, but not ok with a human face being nearby. I had to focus using live view while staying hidden behind the camera, but the 5D Mark III won't trigger a flash that way. I sometimes forgot to switch out of live view as I was moving the camera closer to the toad, and ended up missing shots. The 5d Mark III can trigger a flash in live view. The IV can also, but if you're using a 3rd party flash or flash trigger, you need to disable silent LV shooting (EFCS) When it's a Canon flash it automatically overrides that setting, but most 3rd party flashes it doesn't - pg 189 of the manual explains it.
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# ? May 31, 2024 15:21 |
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timrenzi574 posted:The 5d Mark III can trigger a flash in live view. The IV can also, but if you're using a 3rd party flash or flash trigger, you need to disable silent LV shooting (EFCS) This problem has been confounding me for a while. Thanks!
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