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Only if they are prepared to accept the corruption of their bodily fluids.
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Sep 23, 2017 03:27
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The electric garage door opener was invented in 1926, dang. That might be among the earliest, definitely depending on how you count it. I guess you could count "Mr. Watson, come here, I want you" as an intercom. Do speaking tubes count? The kitchen bell system? e: does it have to be inanimate? Spit dogs? https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turnspit_dog Anne Whateley fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 03:44
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i like nice words
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The earliest home automation was the self-feeding fire.
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Sep 23, 2017 04:03
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Na it was marriage 
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Sep 23, 2017 04:04
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kid sinister posted:Update on the realtor/flipper next door. We agreed to go halfsies on tearing up and repaving our shared driveway. The idiots he hired left a huge bump at the sidewalk and paved over my downspout exit, plus they left a shitload of loose asphalt in my yard. And they broke a couple pickets on my fence. So why are you going halfsies again?
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Sep 23, 2017 05:30
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NancyPants posted:So why are you going halfsies again? I don't think he is anymore. I know I wouldn't be.
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Sep 23, 2017 06:15
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NancyPants posted:So why are you going halfsies again? So the neighbor can actually only pay a little bit to half rear end it and then pocket the difference.
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Sep 23, 2017 06:28
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NancyPants posted:So why are you going halfsies again? Oh I stopped payment on that check as soon as I got home and saw what they did.
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Sep 23, 2017 07:53
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Anne Whateley posted:I don't understand why remote-control lightswitches (not wifi, just like regular remote controls) aren't more of a thing. It seems like it could've been done like 40 years ago. They're out there but they're not enough of a thing to have the best appearance and features. Here are a few at Lowes. I'm looking for something to power a pair of lamps at my father's house and he's not interested in smart features. I would rather have a remote and cradle (like a lot of ceiling fans) instead of a fob but for under $20 I can deal with it.
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Sep 23, 2017 10:34
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I picked up a little remote outlet like that for a lamp that's on the other side of my bedroom, great purchase.
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Sep 23, 2017 13:47
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Was digging some trenches at my folks place and all I could think of was this thread. Keep in mind this is all temporary while they get the funds together to build a proper house, and this is not where they live. They have a line coming in from the meter box to a sub board in the middle of the property. They are running a single extension cord from this to the 6*3m shed where they have their kitchen/bedroom. There is 3 different power boards all daisy chained together running a fridge, microwave, a bunch of lights and some other random shite like a kettle and radio. Off this is another extension cord running to the other shed where they have another fridge, a tv and a bunch more lights. Off this is another extension cord running over the driveway to a 3rd shed where it powers the reticulation system. Im amazed the place hasnt burnt down.
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Sep 23, 2017 15:10
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kid sinister posted:the illegals I know you're trying to make a point, but don't do this.
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Sep 23, 2017 15:42
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Alereon posted:Most people have both chlorinated water and intact plumbing. Legionella is pretty resistant to chlorine, so you still have to keep your water heater hot.
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Sep 23, 2017 19:14
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glynnenstein posted:Legionella is pretty resistant to chlorine, so you still have to keep your water heater hot.
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Sep 23, 2017 21:02
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Huh? That FAQ you posted says quote:Maintain domestic water heaters at 60°C (140°F). The temperature of the water should be 50°C (122°F) or higher at the faucet. It literally says the exact opposite of what you are saying, but it does caution you to avoid making your water too hot and just live with the risk of Legionnaires iif you have small children you worry about burning. Or to install an anti-scald device. I'd much rather have a burn than an actual disease. TheBananaKing fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 21:08
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Alereon posted:This is a common but extremely dangerous misconception. Here's an FAQ on Legionnaire's disease from OSHA that specifically recommends against raising your home water heater temperature to combat Legionella. It's important to note that Legionella doesn't easily grow in residential plumbing systems, most cases are found in hospitals and other institutions with large, poorly maintained systems. There are up to 50,000 cases of Legionnaire's disease per year in the US. Hot tap water burns account for around twice as many hospitalizations every year, and children and the elderly are most vulnerable to such burns. Getting people to turn down their water heater set temperature to no higher than 120F is a huge public health win and we shouldn't undermine that without good reason. Getting rid of bath tubs would be the sensible way to tackle this epidemic of hot water burns.
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Sep 23, 2017 21:11
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Jerry Cotton posted:Getting rid of bath tubs would be the sensible way to tackle this epidemic of hot water burns. Just get some of those taps with blue and red LEDs in them to indicate the water temperature. I went to a flipper's open house once and those faucets were one of their selling points that they actually felt was important enough to point out in the MLS listing.
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Sep 23, 2017 21:13
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TheBananaKing posted:It literally says the exact opposite of what you are saying, but it does caution you to avoid making your water too hot and just live with the risk of Legionnaires iif you have small children you worry about burning. Or to install an anti-scald device.
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Sep 23, 2017 21:37
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Alereon posted:It provides those steps that you can use to prevent Legionnaire's disease in home hot water systems, then specifically states below that you shouldn't because the risk of burns is more serious than Legionnaire's disease. I'm not sure why you think a burn is better than a disease but you're wrong. Stop digging. You aren't going to win this. It is trivial to install a mixing valve or any number of other measures to prevent scalding while still holding a DHW tank at a safe temperature. Such things are very often required by code in TYOOL 2017.
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Sep 23, 2017 21:40
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Alereon posted:I'm not sure why you think a burn requiring hospitalization is better than a disease but you're wrong. Getting a burn sucks terribly, but unless you are cranking your heater well beyond 140F and also aren't taking any precautions to lower the temp before it hits the faucet I don't see how an adult is getting a burn that requires hospitalization from this. If you have kids over and you know your water comes out scalding and you haven't done poo poo to correct this then you are a sadist.
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Sep 23, 2017 21:51
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Motronic posted:Stop digging. You aren't going to win this.
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Sep 23, 2017 21:57
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Alereon posted:Look at it like this: the presence of overly hot water in your water heater and pipes is probably around 10X as dangerous as the potential presence of Legionella bacteria. You can control those dangers through various means, and in correctly designed new-construction or recently overhauled systems it's possible to make an informed choice that it's safer to run your water heater at a higher temperature. In general though, it is much more preferable to run at a maximum of 120F per normal guidelines to prevent scalding burns. You have a relative mis-perception of the risks of Legionnaire's disease versus scalding burns that makes you afraid of Legionnaire's disease when you should actually be afraid of burns. I don't know what I can do to prove this to you other than showing you statistics about how vastly more common serious tap water burns are than Legionnaire's disease. Why not both? You get the horrible burn, but you did the shower heater incorrectly, so the compromised tissue gets bathed in Legionella tainted water!
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Sep 23, 2017 22:43
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Alereon posted:Look at it like this: the presence of overly hot water in your water heater and pipes is probably around 10X as dangerous as the potential presence of Legionella bacteria. Yeah and a person is more likely to be shot with their own gun than they are to be the victim of a homicide by any other means. The statistics are buoyed by idiots. The solution is to not be an idiot. Don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater.
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Sep 23, 2017 22:51
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Alereon posted:In general though, it is much more preferable to run at a maximum of 120F per normal guidelines to prevent scalding burns. This is at the TAP not at the tank. You keep missing that detail. And the TANK will need to be sized larger for the same usage if you drop it that low. Lowering this temperature outside of the tank is a $60 part that you sweat into the two pipes that by definition are already coming out of your hot water heater. It's something that is routinely done during a DHW heater replacement or as a retrofit in homes with children.
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Sep 23, 2017 22:56
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The solution is to use knobs with temperature labeled and not just little red and blue arrows or crystal balls.
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Sep 23, 2017 23:14
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If I want to scald myself AND get a disease, what temps should I be going for?
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Sep 23, 2017 23:17
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Motronic posted:This is at the TAP not at the tank. You keep missing that detail. And the TANK will need to be sized larger for the same usage if you drop it that low. I will be replacing my hw heater soon and now have a small child, what is this part I should be adding
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Sep 23, 2017 23:18
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Platystemon posted:Yeah and a person is more likely to be shot with their own gun than they are to be the victim of a homicide by any other means. I mean probably half of any safety program is simply preventing people who think they know what is going on doing stuff that will kill them when they are wrong.
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Sep 23, 2017 23:20
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Alereon posted:This is a common but extremely dangerous misconception. Here's an FAQ on Legionnaire's disease from OSHA that specifically recommends against raising your home water heater temperature to combat Legionella. It's important to note that Legionella doesn't easily grow in residential plumbing systems, most cases are found in hospitals and other institutions with large, poorly maintained systems. There are up to 50,000 cases of Legionnaire's disease per year in the US. Hot tap water burns account for around twice as many hospitalizations every year, and children and the elderly are most vulnerable to such burns. Getting people to turn down their water heater set temperature to no higher than 120F is a huge public health win and we shouldn't undermine that without good reason. It's not a misconception at all. The dangerous types of legionella bacteria are rare and it's not something you need to actively worry about unless you're in the business, but you do need to maintain a safe range of domestic hot water temperature. Chlorine is insufficient alone; innumerable cooling towers test positive while being hammered with enough chlorine or bromine to treat a thousand homes. I've had to take hours and hours of training on legionella because I'm a building engineer and it's the latest concern because of the big outbreak in NYC cooling towers a couple years ago; I know more about this crap than I ever wanted to. I maintain 125 degrees at work on the domestic system (hot enough to prevent colonies reproducing) and test periodically at susceptible locations and of course my cooling tower. If my building were older, bigger, or had positive tests I'd go with 140.
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Sep 23, 2017 23:39
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To be clear, I was talking about home hot water systems where Legionella doesn't like to live. The larger building systems with cooling towers where Legionella thrives are definitely the place to be worrying about it.
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Sep 24, 2017 00:17
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120 degrees is also nowhere near hot enough to make for a comfortable shower that lasts more than five minutes, especially if you have a real showerhead and not some water-saving dribble nozzle.
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Sep 24, 2017 00:27
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glynnenstein posted:It's not a misconception at all. The dangerous types of legionella bacteria are rare and it's not something you need to actively worry about unless you're in the business, but you do need to maintain a safe range of domestic hot water temperature. Chlorine is insufficient alone; innumerable cooling towers test positive while being hammered with enough chlorine or bromine to treat a thousand homes. Stop making poo poo overcomplicated. Just build a hotwater tank into your granite basement, and sterilize your water by bubbling radon through it.
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Sep 24, 2017 00:29
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Alereon posted:To be clear, I was talking about home hot water systems where Legionella doesn't like to live. The larger building systems with cooling towers where Legionella thrives are definitely the place to be worrying about it. Residential isn't really any different. Chlorine alone is still insufficient and you have to maintain a safe hot water heater temperature. At least hot enough to stop reproduction is a minimum. Stagnant legs around seldom used fixtures (a guest shower, utility sink, etc.) are the areas in a house where legionella can grow and become a problem.
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Sep 24, 2017 00:38
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Alereon posted:To be clear, I was talking about home hot water systems where Legionella doesn't like to live. The larger building systems with cooling towers where Legionella thrives are definitely the place to be worrying about it. Keeping residential hot water systems at 65*C / 149*F isn't just about legionella. No one bothers to clean their tank and if you've ever had to fill one up you'll notice the water will run brown at the taps for a little while until all the particulate settles in the tank. If you were to do a heterotrophic plate count you would get results for c. diff, e. coli, all sorts of poo poo - including literal poo poo. The high temperature pasteurizes the water and then a thermostatic mixing valve is super cheap and easy to install either at the hot water outlet or just up stream of point of use to reduce scalding risks. It's usually a bad idea to rely on chlorinated water as you need 2ppm at the outlet to be sure of reducing the CFUs (not eliminating) and the further you are from point of chlorination the less chlorine you'll actually see.
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Sep 24, 2017 01:15
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brugroffil posted:I will be replacing my hw heater soon and now have a small child, what is this part I should be adding Thermostatic mixing valve/tempering valve: http://www.watts.com/pages/learnAbout/temperingValves.asp?catId= Here's a really expensive one (because sharkbite and Home Depot): http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3-4-in-Brass-Heat-Guard-160-Thermostatic-Mixing-Valve-24530/204498197 Anyone in the trade or who has access to a real plumbing supply store can get one that will service an average home's hot water heater for $60 with sweat on fittings. Add a T and a couple inches of copper and you're done as far as parts. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Sep 24, 2017 01:40
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glynnenstein posted:Residential isn't really any different. Chlorine alone is still insufficient and you have to maintain a safe hot water heater temperature. At least hot enough to stop reproduction is a minimum. Stagnant legs around seldom used fixtures (a guest shower, utility sink, etc.) are the areas in a house where legionella can grow and become a problem.
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Sep 24, 2017 02:08
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tangy yet delightful posted:But enough about England. You joke but this was the case in at least one house I lived in growing up in London. It was a really nice development of townhouses sandwiched between two council tower blocks in Swiss Cottage. The back garden wall for the two or three houses closest to the one tower block had bits of broken glass embedded in cement atop the brick. kid sinister posted:Wasn't DC built on a swamp? How did that not become a festering mold pit? I mean the river isn't that far away. No, this is a common misconception but DC was not built on a swamp. Some neighborhoods in the 19th century were built with extremely inadequate drainage (apt for this thread) so they became swamp-like after people started living there. drgitlin fucked around with this message at 12:41 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Sep 24, 2017 12:23
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drgitlin posted:You joke but this was the case in at least one house I lived in growing up in London. It was a really nice development of townhouses sandwiched between two council tower blocks in Swiss Cottage. The back garden wall for the two or three houses closest to the one tower block had bits of broken glass embedded in cement atop the brick. It was a joke based on living there years ago!
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Sep 24, 2017 15:16
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drgitlin posted:No, this is a common misconception but DC was not built on a swamp. Some neighborhoods in the 19th century were built with extremely inadequate drainage (apt for this thread) so they became swamp-like after people started living there. A lot of the mall and SW was marsh. It was mostly drained over the 19th century. I posted about it somewhere once. I'll see if I can find it. e: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3531615&pagenumber=1082&perpage=40#post475431996
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Sep 24, 2017 19:54
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glynnenstein posted:A lot of the mall and SW was marsh. It was mostly drained over the 19th century. I posted about it somewhere once. I'll see if I can find it. glynnenstein posted:A lot of the mall and SW was marsh. It was mostly drained over the 19th century. I posted about it somewhere once. I'll see if I can find it. True, but a marsh is not a swamp. And yes, the waterfront is quite different now because East Potomac Park was a land reclamation project. But I live in SW DC and it's very not-swampy, and neither was NW DC. Even Swampoodle wasn't really a swamp, just crappy construction. Really, my point is that they didn't decide to build the city on a gigantic swamp, because that would have been completely ridiculous, even by the standards of the time. #taxationwithoutrepresentation drgitlin fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Sep 24, 2017 23:53
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