|
Rubiks Pubes posted:I was wondering if anyone here could recommend a small power strip with 2-3 US power plugs and at least 1 USB port, that would be suitable for use in the toolbox? Look for a "travel" power strip, they usually have 2-3 outlets and a USB charging port(s). As long as you're just running a battery charger on it the load should be fine but I'd be wary running power tools on a strip intended for small/home office use. Geoj fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Sep 25, 2017 |
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 05:06
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 09:33 |
|
|
Can anyone recommend proper sealant to use when drilling through a car roof? Planning on installing a radio antenna and maybe some other auxiliary equipment, and since my new car will probably be new, I don't wanna take any chances. Last time I used some good quality silicone, but I read several places that even the car stuff isn't really that great for the job. Also, any recommendations for feeding cables through the car body? I feel like a rubber grommet isn't ideal and it should be sealed as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 10:39
|
|
|
I'm by no means an expert, but at my old work, we perforated a Mazda 3 to use as an antenna test platform. It seemed to be done with these grommets/plastik thingies that allowed for cable passthrough. Looked fairly skookum. But of course, this use case saw the antennas etc. being removed and remounted more often than you'll probably do.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 11:11
|
|
|
What kind of radio aerial do you need to add to a new car? If it's for a CB or similar, might a clamp or bolt on mount be better than drilling?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 11:20
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:What kind of radio aerial do you need to add to a new car? 2m, I am going for a clean install rather than some alternative mounting solution, it generally gives better performance and is less horrible to look at.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 11:53
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:2m, I am going for a clean install rather than some alternative mounting solution, it generally gives better performance and is less horrible to look at. What about RTV sealant?
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 12:14
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:2m, I am going for a clean install rather than some alternative mounting solution, it generally gives better performance and is less horrible to look at. Use a nmo mount, the included gasket will seal the hole.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 12:42
|
|
|
ThinkFear posted:Use a nmo mount, the included gasket will seal the hole. Doesn't seem like that's available here.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 12:55
|
|
|
Seminal Flu posted:Good chart: FWIW, Snap-On owns Bahco as well.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 14:46
|
|
|
And also Williams and CDI
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 15:14
|
|
|
Stanley owns Proto/Blackhawk now too. Good torque wrenches.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 18:32
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:Doesn't seem like that's available here. Here is the one I used. Works well, I think we still put RTV around it. And you're exactly right - mounting the antenna permanently / through the roof gives me wayyyyyyyy better performance than everyone else I see at the races with stick on/fender mounts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 18:57
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:I don't know that this solves the problem, but sometimes a source/part number helps, so: It's rather unfortunate as it seems like a nice system, but without easy availability for good antennas based on the system I can't really adopt it :/
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:It's rather unfortunate as it seems like a nice system, but without easy availability for good antennas based on the system I can't really adopt it :/ Would a waterproof strain relief work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GJ03AUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506365162&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 20:07
|
|
|
lwoodio posted:Would a waterproof strain relief work? I was considering it, but I'm worried that the damaged paint will lead to rust forming around the drillpoint without some form of "larger" seal.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 20:18
|
|
|
thus is the coolest thing ever. I kinda want to buy one, just because: https://www.kctoolco.com/wera-advent-calendar-2017/
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 20:46
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:I was considering it, but I'm worried that the damaged paint will lead to rust forming around the drillpoint without some form of "larger" seal. The solution to that isn't (only) a seal, it's covering any newly created bare metal with paint.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2017 20:57
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:Doesn't seem like that's available here. Where is "here" that you can't pick up NMO stuff at any ham radio store or website? I put an NMO 2m on my car by popping out the rear courtesy light, drilling up with a stepped bit, and slathering the exposed edge with dielectric grease. When I sold the car years later, I just unscrewed the antenna and capped the connector. Never saw any rust. (There's a ham radio thread in DIY. Come on over)
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 03:29
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:The solution to that isn't (only) a seal, it's covering any newly created bare metal with paint. I am not a painter and I don't want to spray the interior of my car through a hole. Also paint matching and all that poo poo. Seems to me a sealant makes way more sense.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 09:18
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:I am not a painter and I don't want to spray the interior of my car through a hole. Also paint matching and all that poo poo. Seems to me a sealant makes way more sense. You only need to paint the edge of the hole that you have drilled. It's 1mm wider than the hole itself and you can cover it with touch-up paint with a little brush.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 09:56
|
|
|
Even a little touch-up paint pen set will be fine, drill the hole through tape, paint the exposed edges, let it did, add a grommet or sealant afterwards. E: exactly that ^
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 10:07
|
|
|
Think of the paint as a colorful sealant you're using between the air and your sheetmetal.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 16:21
|
|
|
My experience with paint has always been very poor because of all the surface prep and priming. I suppose a paint pen might be simple enough, although those seem pretty expensive for what they are.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 16:33
|
|
|
SEKCobra posted:My experience with paint has always been very poor because of all the surface prep and priming. I suppose a paint pen might be simple enough, although those seem pretty expensive for what they are. It's literally easier than as applying nail varnish. If you've ever painted your nails* and managed not to get it all over your skin or your trousers, then you can manage this job. (*be honest, you have, haven't you)
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 16:49
|
|
|
spog posted:It's literally easier than as applying nail varnish. I blew my wife's mind one time by painting her nails and doing a really good job. Turns out I didn't spend all that time
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2017 18:31
|
|
Boys who love boys
|
I have a BE pressure washer (BE317RA) and it has a plastic oil sight glass. I was trying to be a good owner and change the pump oil, and I inadvertently overtightened the glass after draining the oil. The threads snapped off the screw, and all the oil leaked out. I bought these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G9CSJ1A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and they fit, and worked for about an hour until they snapped off again. This parts page doesn't show the glass (its on the other side) http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/ar-rmv-pressure-washer-pump-parts What do I buy so I don't get a plastic piece of crap again? I want one of the brass ones with a real glass, but don't know what actual size/pitch is for the hole. The amazon ones screwed in, so its probably close. I am not sure if the plastic was just really bad and made it crack this time. All the mcmaster-carr ones are standard thread/npt of some flavour. Any ideas? The canadian listing for those things says they are 3/8 pt. Which makes sense I guess. Im going to order some from mcmaster I guess. blindjoe fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Sep 27, 2017 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2017 16:42
|
|
|
Unsane posted:thus is the coolest thing ever. I kinda want to buy one, just because: https://www.kctoolco.com/wera-advent-calendar-2017/
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2017 18:37
|
|
|
http://toolguyd.com/zoro-25-flash-sale-on-tools-machining-092717/ 25% OFF at zoro on hand tools, no minimum includes knipex 
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2017 18:40
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:http://toolguyd.com/zoro-25-flash-sale-on-tools-machining-092717/ Just bought the 3 set. https://www.zoro.com/knipex-plier-wrench-set-ergonomic-3-pcs-9k-00-80-45-us/i/G4784726/ Out of stock but good deal for $122
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2017 18:55
|
|
|
I’m considering the Dewalt XR 1/2” impact and found two versions, a 4.0 and a 5.0Ah, $300 or $350 with a charger. Any reason to choose one over the other? I’d say it will get used but not all the time, mostly for my family’s cars and odd jobs around the house. Likewise, any other recommendations? The power/price of the Dewalt is pretty appealing, but if I could save a bit I wouldn’t mind.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 02:51
|
|
|
I have this one, it has snapped a subframe bolt because I was stupid. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTQW7JA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 03:28
|
|
|
nitsuga posted:I’m considering the Dewalt XR 1/2” impact and found two versions, a 4.0 and a 5.0Ah, $300 or $350 with a charger. Any reason to choose one over the other? I’d say it will get used but not all the time, mostly for my family’s cars and odd jobs around the house. I have a DCF899 with a 4.0 AH battery, honestly unless you're a full time mechanic the 4.0 battery will last forever between charges. I've been nothing but happy with mine in about 7 months of owning it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 03:54
|
|
|
Confirmed. The 899 is a total beast and conquered everything I've thrown at it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 03:59
|
|
|
nitsuga posted:I’m considering the Dewalt XR 1/2” impact and found two versions, a 4.0 and a 5.0Ah, $300 or $350 with a charger. Any reason to choose one over the other? I’d say it will get used but not all the time, mostly for my family’s cars and odd jobs around the house. What do plan on using it for? I made a post about Milwaukees offerings, I'd just get their mid torque if I was doing it all over again. The DCF899 and 2763 are comparable and I find mine to be too cumbersome to use unless I really, really need to break something.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 06:45
|
|
|
Bulk Vanderhuge posted:What do plan on using it for? I made a post about Milwaukees offerings, I'd just get their mid torque if I was doing it all over again. The DCF899 and 2763 are comparable and I find mine to be too cumbersome to use unless I really, really need to break something. Right, unless you're routinely working on heavy industrial machinery, get a smaller more maneuverable impact, it'll be far more useful in far more places, with enough oomph to break most bolts. I've got the Makita XWT11Z three speed impact wrench with the 3 amp hour battery, which lasts all day and is super useful because it essentially has adjustable torque with the speed settings and can fit in a bunch of places where it's incredibly handy. The rare occasion where you might actually need more torque is most likely going to be an easy to access bolt that you can throw a breaker bar and pipe on for more leverage.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 11:38
|
|
|
nitsuga posted:I’m considering the Dewalt XR 1/2” impact and found two versions, a 4.0 and a 5.0Ah, $300 or $350 with a charger. Any reason to choose one over the other? I’d say it will get used but not all the time, mostly for my family’s cars and odd jobs around the house. Tool and usage dependent of course, but I've found that anything above 3Ah-ish is more than fine for the home gamer. I built an entire custom bed based on a sheet of plywood and three sections of ikea drawers on not even half a 5Ah charge (on a normal drill/screwdriver), and I've never used more than one bar on the 5Ah battery when using my impact working on cars, including a complete front axle brake job. $50 is not worth it for the extra amp-hour. Spend the money on impact sockets/bits instead.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 12:02
|
|
|
The DeWalt is also adjustable. I'm just an idiot sometimes.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 12:52
|
|
|
Might as well post in here. I'm doing increasingly more serious work in my barn instead of my dad's barn so occasionally running into a tool I'm lacking that he has, but that really I should get my own copy of. So that said, what's a good bang/buck corded sawzall? I don't need anything fancy, I just need to hack up a bunch of unibody sheetmetal, and my cordless one dies pretty quick doing that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 14:00
|
|
|
I have a Hazard Fraught (Harbor Freight) saw and it works fine as long as you use some non-crap blades. If you see yourself using it often you might consider something else.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 14:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 09:33 |
|
|
Sawzall isn't much of a precision tool, so harbor freight stuff should be fine. Besides my cordless Makita, I've got an ancient Sears one from my dad, and it works great, though it's a bit heavy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2017 15:16
|
|