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That garage is attached to your HOUSE? Is it double 5/8" sheetrock where it shares walls and on the ceiling? Fire rated door between the house and garage? How old? By code that probably should have been taped and mudded. Also, sheetrock is cheap. Don't worry about "salvaging" it.
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Sep 24, 2017 19:40
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Motronic posted:That garage is attached to your HOUSE? Is it double 5/8" sheetrock where it shares walls and on the ceiling? Fire rated door between the house and garage? Negative on the attached. Otherwise I would care a whole lot more. It is close enough that a fire might spread to it, especially with the structural dry rot that is our patio but that is also getting replaced with the renovation. Garage is original 1947 we *think*, back room addition is more recent, maybe 20? Years old. I would need to dig up my pile of permits. As far as reusing drywall I was only trying to save labor. If it should come down so be it. We're making it right. The house wasn't a fixer upper when bought 2 years ago, but we are making inroads on it being downright modern. Pipes, wires, and foundation bracing (hello from Los Angeles), now we are moving on to the visible stuff.
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Sep 24, 2017 19:58
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Dishwasher goon: sounds like your arms are clogged, remove them and clean them out including all the nozzles them try again. They won't spin if they're clogged.
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Sep 24, 2017 20:12
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H110Hawk posted:Negative on the attached. Oh, totally less of a deal then. So on saving sheetrock: Is it actually screwed (or nailed) and dimpled properly, or do you have fasteners hanging out in the field? Also, are the joints actually flat, or is there a bunch of offset and paper and poo poo in the way? If it's in decentish shape you can totally get away with leaving it up, but if you need to touch every fastener anyway and there are rips in the paper, etc is just gonna make it a lot harder to finish properly. Also, green/blue board (water and mold resistant) is like a buck a sheet more than regular stuff. Great for a garage.
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Sep 24, 2017 20:21
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Since you mentioned garages. I am debating between putting up plywood (or OSB) vs. Sheetrock once my garage is built. My thought being if I put up wood then mounting things becomes easier when between studs. Someone tell me pros and cons or why I'm an idiot.
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Sep 24, 2017 20:55
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tangy yet delightful posted:Since you mentioned garages. I am debating between putting up plywood (or OSB) vs. Sheetrock once my garage is built. My thought being if I put up wood then mounting things becomes easier when between studs. 3/4" ply rocks. Just seal the ends so it doesn't wick moisture. The down side is it's hella expensive compared to sheetrock. OSB - I'm not sure how I feel about that for hanging shelves or moisture resistance.
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Sep 24, 2017 21:17
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Motronic posted:OSB [...] moisture resistance. from a couple mushroom growers i've talked to, the answer is "holy loving lol"
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Sep 24, 2017 22:39
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Motronic posted:Oh, totally less of a deal then. Thanks. Near as I can discern it is fastened correctly. The worst sheet is the one pictured but I also haven't put much thought into it yet. The rear sheets are spackled but not sanded, nor does it seal. If I do need to replace more than a sheet or two I will likely do it all so it is all blue board. As for detached:  Some may recognize the patio of doom. Legionella chat in another thread plus the various natural disasters has spurred me to finally clean and fill my barrels.
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Sep 24, 2017 22:49
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HycoCam posted:I'd bet it is one of these two parts: cakesmith handyman posted:Dishwasher goon: sounds like your arms are clogged, remove them and clean them out including all the nozzles them try again. They won't spin if they're clogged. Hopefully this nails down what the issue might be. Just running a rinse cycle. Water starts filling at 1:10 and "washing" begins at 2:20. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PP5JOFl3X2o
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Sep 25, 2017 01:39
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Josh Lyman posted:I checked the water valve inlet valve and the solenoid seemed fine electrically according to my multimeter.
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Sep 25, 2017 01:45
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Motronic posted:3/4" ply rocks. Just seal the ends so it doesn't wick moisture. What would you recommend for an end sealant? Generic brand clear coat spray paint, I assume? I may consider using the ply for some areas with a lot of hanging to be done and sheetrock the rest. I dunno yet, have some time. I might also just plywood it in sections as funds permit. I'll stay away from OSB.
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Sep 25, 2017 05:20
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GWBBQ posted:Either the pump motor is on its last legs or the screen/chopper in front of the pump is severely clogged. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP54RlEM5jY Any things I should keep an eye out for? This is the cheapest stainless model at Home Depot (the fridge and range are also stainless): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-Front-Control-Dishwasher-in-Stainless-Steel-FFBD2412SS/207194375
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Sep 25, 2017 07:02
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tangy yet delightful posted:Since you mentioned garages. I am debating between putting up plywood (or OSB) vs. Sheetrock once my garage is built. My thought being if I put up wood then mounting things becomes easier when between studs. I used 5/8" plywood in mine, no probem hanging light stuff / screwing in hooks, screws etc. anywhere; for anything heavier, screw into the studs. If you go the Motronic route, 3/4" is indeed awesome & you'll be able to hang anything anywhere. It is correspondingly more expensive. As a property insurance adjuster, I will tell you that OSB blows goats. It cannot tolerate moisture for long before turning into oatmeal. Yes, yes, it's structurally similar to plywood, but only so long as it is protected 100% from moisture. In my opinion it doesn't hold nails as well, but pros who use it say I'm wrong - then again, I'm seeing it several years later, long after the pros have moved on.
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Sep 25, 2017 14:32
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Josh Lyman posted:Any things I should keep an eye out for? This is the cheapest stainless model at Home Depot (the fridge and range are also stainless): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frigidaire-Front-Control-Dishwasher-in-Stainless-Steel-FFBD2412SS/207194375 It will be a loud unreliable piece of junk. Is this for a rental? A culture which doesn't believe in dishwashers? Get a Bosch.
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Sep 25, 2017 15:33
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Josh Lyman posted:The pump motor assembly is $183 and literally requires disassembling the entire dishwasher, so I've mostly convinced the homeowner to replace the washer. Can you remove the pump from the sump assembly? The pump alone is $30. But would suck to have a blockage somewhere inside the sump assembly that is the cause of the water restriction.  As a renter, you've already gone above and beyond trying to fix the thing. Should be on your landlord to replace or repair.
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Sep 25, 2017 17:52
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HycoCam posted:As a renter, you've already gone above and beyond trying to fix the thing. Should be on your landlord to replace or repair. Agreed. You've done your duty and pretty much proved that basic maintenance will not restore the appliance to working order. Now it's up to your landlord to deal with it. e:If you're willing and able to install a new one yourself make sure that you come to an agreement with your landlord for a reduced rent payment to make up for your time and labor beforehand. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Sep 25, 2017 |
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Sep 25, 2017 18:11
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I have some Ikea LED strips lighting up some shelving. Right now there are two sets of 4 strips, requiring two power plugs and two switches. Ideally, I would like all 7 strips to be on one power plug/switch. Has anyone had any luck with this, or am I going to burn my house down? Google searching shows a lot of guides for making the strips flexible, but I'm trying to light up 7 with one plug and switch.
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Sep 25, 2017 18:28
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raej posted:I have some Ikea LED strips lighting up some shelving. Right now there are two sets of 4 strips, requiring two power plugs and two switches. Ideally, I would like all 7 strips to be on one power plug/switch. Has anyone had any luck with this, or am I going to burn my house down? Can you give us an HTML link for the lights? Length tends to be the problem with LED lights--too long and your voltage is going to drop causing the lights to be dimmer toward the end if you aren't driving with enough amps. Connecting the LEDs in combination of series (i.e. two sets four strips one after the other, like you have now) and parallel (connect the two sets of four lights to your power supply) is the way to go. i.e. you have a Y connection coming from your power supply that powers the two sets of four strips (versus all eight strips connected one after another)
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Sep 25, 2017 18:54
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HycoCam posted:Can you give us an HTML link for the lights? Length tends to be the problem with LED lights--too long and your voltage is going to drop causing the lights to be dimmer toward the end if you aren't driving with enough amps. https://www.amazon.com/Dioder-White-Strips-Undercabinet-Lights/dp/B0019BI2CW
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Sep 25, 2017 19:22
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Josh Lyman posted:The pump motor assembly is $183 and literally requires disassembling the entire dishwasher, so I've mostly convinced the homeowner to replace the washer. I had that model in my old house, installed by the previous owner along with other similarly bottom of the barrel appliances. If you enjoy the sounds of jets taking off in your kitchen for like literally 6 hours while the dishwasher runs a cycle, this could be the dishwasher for you!
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Sep 25, 2017 19:34
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 Where is the on/off switch--on the long cord going to the outlet or on the white square? Hoping the switch is on the cord with the outlet plug. If that is the case, the wiring is pretty easy, cut the outlet cord so you have two switch cords not attached to anything--make sure you leave enough wire between the switch and the white box/LED driver. Throw away one of the switch cords. Splice the two white boxes/LED drivers to your remaining outlet cord. Be wary your splice will be carrying 110v/220v and use white heatshrink to cover your splices. fe: and if you paid $140 for each set of lights--put them back in the box and send them back!  (The $20-$30 price range is more reasonable)
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Sep 25, 2017 20:03
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Bathtub Chat: Does anybody have suggestions for tubs; specifically a 5ft alcove tub? Every acrylic tub I've touched has felt flimsy, the steel ones chip, and cast iron weighs a million pounds. I like the feel of the steel ones, so should I roll the dice with them, or live with the more flimsy yet probably more durable acrylic options.
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Sep 25, 2017 21:48
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I don't like metal tubs because they pull too much heat out of the water, but that's just me.
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Sep 25, 2017 22:18
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My basement is on a 20a breaker but I just noticed all of the wire seems to be 14gauge. 1) this is not to code, correct? And 2) should my home inspector have caught this?
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Sep 26, 2017 00:10
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TheBananaKing posted:My basement is on a 20a breaker but I just noticed all of the wire seems to be 14gauge. 1) this is not to code, correct? And 2) should my home inspector have caught this? Yes and yes. As for fixing it, what's that basement circuit for?
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Sep 26, 2017 00:56
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Well... I was beginning to amass a tool collection and had been using them down there. Went to put a new light in the socket (directly upstream of the outlet I had been running my router and shop vac on) and it smelled godawful and the innards of the socket came crumbling out. On closer inspection I was getting close to burning through a wire there. I'm not too keen on pulling new wire at the moment, so for now I'm probably gonna put in a 15a breaker and will move my workshop to the garage. E- when and if I do decide to do more poo poo down there again... Is pulling new wire something pretty simple to do with no experience whatsoever? Do you need any special tools? I'm assuming the wires are stapled to every surface they touch. TheBananaKing fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 01:06
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H110Hawk posted:It will be a loud unreliable piece of junk. Is this for a rental? A culture which doesn't believe in dishwashers? Get a Bosch. However, he's very cheap and they're planning to sell the house next August so... maybe it's not actually the worst option?
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Sep 26, 2017 01:20
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TheBananaKing posted:Well... I was beginning to amass a tool collection and had been using them down there. Went to put a new light in the socket (directly upstream of the outlet I had been running my router and shop vac on) and it smelled godawful and the innards of the socket came crumbling out. On closer inspection I was getting close to burning through a wire there. That could also be due to the PO running a high-wattage bulb in there forever, especially if the socket innards are plastic. My basement light sockets are porcelain surface mounts and most are now running LEDs. I had to replace a few of them not long after I moved in - the PO was running a 200W bulb in one & it fell apart as you described. Running new wire is pretty straightforward; the higher gauge (i.e. lower the number), the more punishment your hands will take. Just be sure the circuit's dead. Somebody fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Sep 26, 2017 |
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Sep 26, 2017 03:37
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TheLastManStanding posted:Bathtub Chat: Flimsy in the showroom or when installed? Because I fitted an acrylic bath between 3 walls and after proper installation it was rock solid.
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Sep 26, 2017 10:34
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TheBananaKing posted:Well... I was beginning to amass a tool collection and had been using them down there. Went to put a new light in the socket (directly upstream of the outlet I had been running my router and shop vac on) and it smelled godawful and the innards of the socket came crumbling out. On closer inspection I was getting close to burning through a wire there. Yes and no. Before you touch anything electrical, I would very highly recommend reading The Black and Decker Guide to Home Wiring so you can understand what is going on and not do something stupid. It's a fantastic and easy to digest resource, and you can probably even find it free at your local library. Pulling wire is highly dependant on where you're pulling it and your comfort level opening up the breaker panel and attaching it to a breaker and ground bus bar. Some special tools make it easier, such as fish tape or nylon fish poles poles and lube. Since it's in your basement, presumably it should be very simple as everything is exposed and you're not trying to drill through so much stuff. Though the proper method is to drill small holes through joists to run it, 2" away from the edge etc.
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Sep 26, 2017 12:31
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cakesmith handyman posted:Flimsy in the showroom or when installed? Because I fitted an acrylic bath between 3 walls and after proper installation it was rock solid.
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Sep 26, 2017 15:08
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HycoCam posted:
On/Off switch is on the larger white cord to power outlet (where your X is) Going to do it like this:  And no, I got both sets for like $25 at Ikea proper. Amazon link was best pic.
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Sep 26, 2017 15:32
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tangy yet delightful posted:What would you recommend for an end sealant? Generic brand clear coat spray paint, I assume? Spray is not really a great idea. Rattle cans do not put out much product. Any exterior latex paint should work. I'd put it on with a small roller.
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Sep 26, 2017 16:59
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TheLastManStanding posted:In the showroom, and to be fair I've only seen the ones at home depot, lowes, etc. If you've got a brand or model suggestion I'm all ears. I'm in the UK and I bought a scratched reduced store-brand one and dremel polished the scratches out. I'm not the one to ask for quality recommendations 
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Sep 26, 2017 18:57
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TheBananaKing posted:Well... I was beginning to amass a tool collection and had been using them down there. Went to put a new light in the socket (directly upstream of the outlet I had been running my router and shop vac on) and it smelled godawful and the innards of the socket came crumbling out. On closer inspection I was getting close to burning through a wire there. Seconding a PO put a too high wattage bulb in there, or the socket is just old and brittle. If you're in love with the fixture, you can rewire it. They sell lamp parts at any hardware store. If the walls and ceiling are open, then definitely. I doubt that you'll need any special tools. It doesn't need to be every surface, but there are rules on the staple spacing, 4.5 feet apart and within 8" of any box. NM cable is only allowed to be installed on the sides of joists and studs.
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Sep 26, 2017 19:40
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DavidAlltheTime posted:I'm installing a bar on my deck, and due to some wacky framing, the notches cut into the bar to fit into the corner posts are offset. This leaves one end with a lot of weight far from the post. I'd like an elegant way to support this end. I've thought of a leg, but planing the curved side of the cedar bar would be tricky, and I doubt I could make the join look nice. I've thought an angled piece of wood might work, like a shelf bracket type thing, but maybe there's another way I'm missing? Would a lag bolt through the 4x4 post be strong enough to hold up the bar and keep it steady even if someone was leaning on it? I think I know the answer to that.The bar is being mounted 30 inches off the ground. It's roughly 13 inches wide, and varies in depth. Sorry, I'm way late here my friend, but I believe the more aesthetically proper way to handle this would be to suspend the bar, rather than prop in up. I see that some of the following suggestions involve lagging the bar into the post. I would not do this; instead, I would use a decorative chain (perhaps gold) or cable (there are some nice products available) to provide support. Just install an eyebolt in the near end of the bar near the inside edge, and another about 16" up on the post, and connect with the chain or cable. Tighten it, and stand back and admire the work you did, because that bar will not sag. LOVE, VITALIS
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Sep 26, 2017 21:44
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More bathroom reno questions from me. I've installed cement board around the shower now, and there's about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap (depending on the wall) between the top of the backer board and the ceiling (which is plaster). I have setting type joint compound, and I plan to just shove some of that poo poo into the gap and feather down - is there any problem with this? I'll allow extra time for it to set before applying the Redgard over it since it may be kind of thick in places. Edit: I will be tiling all the way to the ceiling, in case that matters. Basically I just want to make sure setting type joint compound is the right product to use here and that I don't need to tape or put in any lath or anything. Sub Par fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Sep 27, 2017 |
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Sep 27, 2017 17:39
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Concrete question / old rear end barn question here. I have an old barn that was built in 1903 or so and at some point some jackass poured an inch of concrete over the wooden floor (unbeknownst to me). Fast forward a couple of years, and a forklift got parked in there and crashed through the deck. I busted up the concrete years ago, and want to put a (big) lathe in there, probably around 2k lbs (maybe more) and maybe drive a fork lift in (to position the lathe). So naturally I just want to fill the whole thing in with concrete. I know jack poo poo about concrete and foundations, can I just call a concrete company and tell 'em fill it in and finish it? Who do I call? The ready mix plant a few miles up the road? What are my options? I'd like to keep the budget at or below $1200, but could stretch another grand. Here's my ms paint for lovely reference!  It's about 12' wide, by about 17' deep and the back is about 4' above grade. The current foundation is a natural rock foundation that's been mortared.
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Sep 27, 2017 18:40
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Pimblor posted:I know jack poo poo about concrete and foundations, can I just call a concrete company and tell 'em fill it in and finish it? Who do I call? The ready mix plant a few miles up the road? What are my options? I'd like to keep the budget at or below $1200, but could stretch another grand. As a point of comparison, I spent $12k to get a 16x24' (so about 2x as big as your barn) concrete slab foundation poured for my workshop. This was a full-on foundation with perimeter walls, not just a floor, but I'd still be surprised if you could get your floor done for what you're ready to pay. Sorry.
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Sep 27, 2017 19:16
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Sub Par posted:More bathroom reno questions from me. I've installed cement board around the shower now, and there's about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap (depending on the wall) between the top of the backer board and the ceiling (which is plaster). I have setting type joint compound, and I plan to just shove some of that poo poo into the gap and feather down - is there any problem with this? I'll allow extra time for it to set before applying the Redgard over it since it may be kind of thick in places. Tile & grout should suffice. You're more worried about moisture getting back there, I'd think, so maybe caulk rather than joint compound if anything. Even more of a no-brainer if you intend to tile the ceiling part as well. I'd recommend doing that.
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Sep 27, 2017 20:57
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