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Yep it's IPS 16, syrup consistency and while it doesn't say PLA on the label it does it just fine (I was using it mainly for acrylic & polycarbonate) Working time is short-ish and if you're not expecting the somewhat runny consistency you could make a mess but it's good stuff.
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Sep 26, 2017 19:38
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Say, anyone know if the Prusa multi material is supposed to be compatible with the MK3? I'd think so but I haven't found any answer, and since light googling reveals the occasional same question (unanswered) in some forum posts.
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Sep 26, 2017 19:41
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I need to see the effect of plastic glue does on pla and abs. I use it for tiny mans games made of plastic, but it should work the same way but dealing with the infill mesh should be interesting.
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Sep 26, 2017 19:42
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From what I understand multi-material for the mk3 is still in development
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Sep 26, 2017 19:43
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mewse posted:From what I understand multi-material for the mk3 is still in development I believe I read this somewhere as well, yes.
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Sep 26, 2017 21:23
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it's right there on the announcement blog post guysquote:Multi Material will be available shortly after the MK3 starts shipping with a slight upgrade, by including filament sensors for all 4 extruders, increasing the reliability immensely. jeez
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Sep 26, 2017 21:37
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Whoops, I read that as "and our other new product you've been hearing about will be ready shortly after the MK3, so let's hear it for new stuff woooo" 
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Sep 26, 2017 21:40
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Sagebrush posted:it's right there on the announcement blog post guys I never learned to read 
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Sep 26, 2017 21:42
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EVIL Gibson posted:I need to see the effect of plastic glue does on pla and abs. That's what IPS16 and all the fun chemicals I've been mentioning do in regards to PLA, PC and Acrylic. Normal plastic cement isn't likely to have much effect. ninja edit: Just tried to glue some scrap PLA using Revell's plastic glue. Didn't work.
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Sep 26, 2017 21:43
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I've tried Tamiya's liquid cement on PLA, also no go. I'll have to find my tube of acrylic cement and see if that's got any of the appropriate nastiness in it. On the other hand, the $15 3D pen I nabbed off Amazon the other day showed up this morning, and I was actually a little shocked at how firmly it bonded two pieces of scrap together. I really didn't expect that much strength from a couple of small plastic weld beads. Also ordered one of the $15 Monoprice pens that CloFan linked to, as backup for when the first cheap one inevitably tries to burn my house down.
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Sep 27, 2017 04:21
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PLA only dissolves in chlorinated solvents. Wikipedia says it dissolves in tetrahydrofuran but I've tried it and it's pretty slow and crappy. Nothing like ABS in acetone, for instance. Dichloromethane has always been my go-to solvent for...difficult...plastics, and it works just great on PLA, but it's getting harder and harder to find in pure form.
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Sep 27, 2017 05:08
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Are there any good uses for lovely PLA filament. I have a roll thats been left out on the open for too long and all the prints I do with it are shithouse and brittle and separate easily, so im not going to use it any more, but I dont want to just throw it out.
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Sep 27, 2017 05:50
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Stick it in a 3d pen if you have one. Otherwise just scrap it. You probably only spent like 20 bucks on it and it'll biodegrade anyway
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Sep 27, 2017 07:28
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Sagebrush posted:Stick it in a 3d pen if you have one. Otherwise just scrap it. You probably only spent like 20 bucks on it and it'll biodegrade anyway I just ordered one of those 3d pens linked above, so I will save it for that. Cheers.
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Sep 27, 2017 08:03
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Jestery posted:Super glue is pretty good, hold it in place for a bit though, it feels like it takes a minute or two to " set" on PLA. I found a bit of a stupid work around for this, running the config/setup printer in slic3r prusa edition allows you to set a new home point and for anything large enough that the offset matters obviously moving the object that accommodate the offset. If anyone has a more elegant solution I am open to it 
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Sep 27, 2017 09:20
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I'm getting strange banding and consistent shifting on this part I'm printing. I'm not sure what's going on, the only change is that I updated Cura and I don't know which settings it hosed with this time, except it blew away my start gcode. Any ideas? Pictures:  
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Sep 27, 2017 14:16
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It might be worth double-checking the non-printing speed value in Cura. On another printer I had *cough Robo3D R1 cough* if the non-printing speed was higher than 80mm/s the carriage/Bed momentum would overpower the steppers resulting in a shift if it was moving across a large enough distance (say, any rapid move longer than 30mm). The other option would be to consider adding some active cooling wherever the electronics are housed on your machine, blowing air across the heatsinks on your stepper drivers (you do have heatsinks on your stepper drivers, right?). Alternatively, slow things down to a true crawl and be more patient when printing things. Also double check the tension on your axis belts and make sure they're taut.
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Sep 27, 2017 14:33
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I'll check that, here's one alone. Something must have changed with the travel speed settings.  No shift, still have banding.
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Sep 27, 2017 14:58
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Monoprice is having sales on some of their printers today with the promo codes in the image. The maker select v2 is $255. I think it was $240 last black friday but other than that, it's the lowest I've seen: https://www.monoprice.com/pages/3d_printers 
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Sep 27, 2017 19:28
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My printer just can't get it up anymore I dunno what happened, but I used to get the temp up to 230 for petg, but I can't get past 220 for some reason. It's been a gradual thing too. I had it up to 240 for testing and that dropped to 230 and I was like "that's ok, 230's a better temp for this anyway" so I didn't think about it, but now it gets to 220 and sits there like that's the temp I asked for. I printed at 220 just to see if I could and the print was garbage, so I'm pretty sure it's actually 220, not just a sensor error. Could it be a firmware setting that's gone ape or is autumn taking that much of a toll on my hotend? It's basic 1.75mm e3d v6 12V if that helps.
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Sep 28, 2017 04:49
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Do a PID autotune imo, and make sure all the wires and connections look solid and everything is plugged in properly.
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Sep 28, 2017 04:53
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Marlin should have a thermal runaway feature where it emergency-stops the machine if the extruder doesn't reach the commanded temperature within some preset time interval. Is that not triggering? What is your hotend output? Is it currently running at max PWM, or is it hovering at some lower value?
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Sep 28, 2017 05:03
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NPR Journalizard posted:Are there any good uses for lovely PLA filament. I have a roll thats been left out on the open for too long and all the prints I do with it are shithouse and brittle and separate easily, so im not going to use it any more, but I dont want to just throw it out. Melt it? https://youtu.be/G-HWrDMr0ks Maybe use it for one of those 3d print pens? I've got a couple kilo that came with my 3d printer kit from China, just total poo poo. The spools are now in the trash, not worth the pain of a print failing half way through.
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Sep 28, 2017 07:15
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Looking for advice, I want to get a (cheap-ish) 3D printer that I can use to print small parts and housings, printing quality is more important than bedsize. A metal construction would be cool compared to the common 3d-printed ones. My dad got a Prusa i3(chinese kit) a while back and even with a few hours of tinkering I couldn't get any (remotely) decent results, I'd like something that requires less than a day to get good-enough results with. I'm happy to tinker with it after, but I feel like having to spend several days in setup just to print a cube won't get me consistent prints within a lifetime. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azsAasA8E3o I saw this recent shill video and the printer seems nice enough, although even the paid video brings up a lot of problems, so I really don't know. Is it true that vector printers are the best cheap printers at the moment?
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Sep 28, 2017 07:19
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If you can't get reliable prints out of a Prusa (assuming it's not having actual hardware failures, etc. due to knockoff parts) you won't have much more luck with any of the other inexpensive systems. All of the printers out there that cost less than several thousand dollars require some amount of fiddling and tuning to get good results. "A few hours of tinkering" is, like, enough to get the machine powered up and your first test print run, maybe. If you're starting from zero you can expect to spend several days just getting nice results with basic PLA and average settings. Delta printers aren't really better or worse than cartesian models, just different. They're better for some types of model and worse for others. There are different types of things that can go wrong from one design to the next. What was wrong with the Prusa results? Some of the common errors have simple solutions -- if you post pictures of what's happening someone can probably diagnose it pretty fast.
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Sep 28, 2017 07:36
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Sagebrush posted:If you can't get reliable prints out of a Prusa (assuming it's not having actual hardware failures, etc. due to knockoff parts) you won't have much more luck with any of the other inexpensive systems. All of the printers out there that cost less than several thousand dollars require some amount of fiddling and tuning to get good results. "A few hours of tinkering" is, like, enough to get the machine powered up and your first test print run, maybe. If you're starting from zero you can expect to spend several days just getting nice results with basic PLA and average settings. Well obviously the powering on part was already working once I got to it, problems I had were massive warping(has a heated bed), filament being dragged around and all sorts of little things. Even just trying to get calibration cubes to work seemed impossible and I couldn't be arsed messing with it anymore since it isn't even mine. Like, I don't mind tinkering with it at all, I just wanna have a solid base that I know can produce something useful and won't constantly produce new issues rather than solid models.
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Sep 28, 2017 07:42
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If you want good reliable quality out of the box my choice would be the Flashforge Inventor 2. PLA only, it'll do down to 0.05mm layer heights without issue. The one I use in shop has been going strong for 3 months or so of daily use and is a very capable little machine. It's not a printer anyone else in the thread would recommend, but it's the closest experience I've had to plug and play out of the box, all it needs is a level. Buddha and the Knob are done at high quality (0.05 mm layer heights) and David is at medium quality (0.2 mm). The knob is 10 mm in diameter.  
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Sep 28, 2017 07:58
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If you're using PLA on a heated bed, the heavy warping and the filament being dragged around are both symptoms of improper leveling or zeroing. That's something you have to deal with on every 3D printer. Like, some of the modern designs make zeroing easier, but without much work you could get that prusa printing well if those are the main issues.
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Sep 28, 2017 08:00
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I also have a prusa i3 knockoff, and it took a while but I can get halfway decent prints out of it now. I did splash out on a new hotend though, e3d v6 lite. Slow down your print speed to between 20-40 mm/s, enable retraction to counter the stringing, and download a bed leveling test from thingiverse. Its possible. It will take some tinkering though.
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Sep 28, 2017 08:11
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Sagebrush posted:If you're using PLA on a heated bed, the heavy warping and the filament being dragged around are both symptoms of improper leveling or zeroing. That's something you have to deal with on every 3D printer. I was following the advise on wikis back then and it was all about feedrates and stuff, leveled it several times and the papersheet tests worked perfectly. Since the printer isn't mine and not at my place I really don't care to fix it anymore, I want to get a solid base and then get that working  . Seems there are a ton of banggoodgearbestchinaexpreswhatever printers around, is there any ressource to sort through these? A lot of them seem to hand out 100$ off coupons.
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Sep 28, 2017 08:13
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If you really want an out-of-the-box good experience, buy from prusaprinters.org They're the OEM and not that much more expensive than their many knockoff competitors. Also, their newest machine is loving sweet. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 11:02
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Like I said, I'm looking for something with known potential, there are so many chinese kits and a lot of them seem to have bribed youtubers to call them the best 3d printer, and I'd just like to filter through the noise a bit. I like the idea of vector printers, but I have no idea how much better or worse they really are in regards to quality. I'm fond of the idea of a kit, since building it is part of the fun, but I'd also like a decent metal construction as long as it doesn't make it ridiculously more expensive.
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Sep 28, 2017 11:43
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The printrbot play wasn't very reliable when I was using it, but it's apparently gotten better. It did have pretty good quality though, and I think it was like $300.
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Sep 28, 2017 12:53
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Get a genuine Prusa. Buy it pre-built if you want plug-and-play, but that's going to be tons better than a Chinese knockoff. Don't let the poor quality of the one your dad has lead you to believe all printers in that class are poo poo, because the OG is everything it's hyped up to be.
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Sep 28, 2017 14:39
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SEKCobra posted:Like I said, I'm looking for something with known potential https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kfe_84FGJ8c That video is from the previous version of the printer I'm suggesting you get. And Thomas Sanladerer is not a paid reviewer, he's extremely picky about what he'll publish a review on (ask him about an Anet some time in one of his live streams and watch him explode) and has been the top-tier 3d-printing related guy on Youtube for several years. His line about the difference between the machine in that video and the knockoffs you keep talking about is pretty much perfect as well. And here is an overview of the stuff added for the current version of the machine for a comparison for what you get for $500 for the MK2S vs. $750 for the MK3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwNIzQLtHnU Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Sep 28, 2017 |
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Sep 28, 2017 15:25
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I looked at the original, but it costs like twice what the knockoffs cost, I'd assume that those shouldn't be much worse considering they use the same working principle? The cheapest is 620 € unshipped, I can get a metal knockoff with no tax for 302 EUR apparently: https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_641324.html?wid=21 Then there's this one, hyped as the best by many paid youtubers (310 €): https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_627176.html?wid=21 And a delta for even less money with some coupons (240 USD): https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/flsun-3d-kossel-delta-diy-kit
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Sep 28, 2017 15:35
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Working principle != quality of components
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Sep 28, 2017 15:38
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Do whatever you want, just keep in mind that you've been warned that all of the knockoffs have the tradeoff of using weaker/inferior components and you lose all support you would get from the people that build and sell the Original. You buy a knockoff and you are ON YOUR OWN. Knockoffs only work for those guys on Youtube because they have learned through a *lot* of trial-and-error how to work around inferior components. Almost all of them modify the kits they "review" until they function. Deltas are a tremendous pain in the rear end to calibrate and if you thought the knockoff i3 your dad has was a pain to work with you will be pulling an Office Space on a delta.
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Sep 28, 2017 15:40
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SEKCobra posted:I'd assume that those shouldn't be much worse considering they use the same working principle? You'd be surprised quote:Then there's this one, hyped as the best by many paid youtubers (310 €): Yeah the CR-10 is generally well regarded
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Sep 28, 2017 15:43
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Do whatever you want, just keep in mind that you've been warned that all of the knockoffs have the tradeoff of using weaker/inferior components and you lose all support you would get from the people that build and sell the Original. Fair enough, 500 €+ stuff isn't for me though.
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Sep 28, 2017 15:43
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